Samsung 82" Q900R + 332 HD107S Leds

  • Here's my setup:


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    Samsung 82" Q900R + Hyperion + 4K HDR10
    Denon X6500H
    332 leds ~19ft HD107S LEDS 60LED/m: https://www.aliexpress.com/ite…042311.0.0.17324c4dqEa6x5
    Raspberry Pi 4B
    KDR 4K Video Capture: https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod…tle_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    RobotDyn Logic Level Converter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod…tle_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Aclorol 5V 40A Power Supply: https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod…tle_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    Used this power box that enabled me to power it on/off via a 12V Trigger from my receiver:
    IoTRelay: https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod…tle_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    Used this USB Connector to allow me to power the Raspberry Pi from the LED Power Supply: https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod…tle_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    Here is a VUMeter Effect that I started developing:

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    Started with the Raspberry Pi Zero W then switched to the Raspberry Pi 4B. Also switched the the USB RCA capture adapter to a 4K HDMI one.



  • Why did you move from the RPI zero to the RPI4? I would like to use a zero if it's feasible


    Originally I didn't have any problems with the Zero. I'm implementing many things and didn't want to run into performance issues. I'm now doing 4K HDR via HDMI, I'll have 3 instances of LEDs, 2x ESPixelSticks and the one behind my TV. I'm creating logic to process audio and create visualization also where I'm compiling Hyperion on the RPi itself.


    I had an RPi4 laying around and decided to use it for the processing power.

  • I finally got the controllers for my corner lights.

    I used Richelieu Corner Profile tracks with Opal lenses.

    I used HD107S 4-pin Leds. I've tried other LEDs but nothing was as bright, rich in colors, and responsive as these LEDs. These are the same ones I used behind my TV.

    For my contrllers I used the StanleyProjects LedBoxV2. This was an awesome controller. It comes with a 3-pin connection but the board is stubbed out for a 4-pin led too. I soldered a 4 pin connection and this came out awesome. I installed the latest version of WLED on it and followed the schematic to configure it for the 4-pin strip.

    HwXsPkA.jpg


    wP6Fc2k.jpg


    With Hyperion:

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  • Thanks for posting the link to the HDMI to USB adapters. I'm currently splitting the hdmi one to tv the other to a downscaler, then to RCA and split yet again from there one to separate pi.

    The first Pi is for the lights around the tv, its still the original 100 LED setup i made 8+ years ago, but i've got the bullet style WS2801's (washed color, i know) and they are built into an aluminum frame. It creates a nice visual feature since you see the side of the TV when you enter the room.

    The other Pi I created a script leveraging OpenCV to check for Bluejackets hockey goals and by default since the regional sports network uses the same graphics package it works for Reds home-runs, to trigger a goal light effect on the TV and another set of lights I built into a drink rail behind the couch.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/YRyR1dsXdQd7mEbY9

    One problem I've run into from day 1 was some smaller shifts in color due to poor signal quality, I'm hopeful by sticking to HDMI i can reduce the transfer points and get a clear signal to analyze.

  • Dear Mr. Rochelle,


    greetings from Germany and please don´t mind about any Grammar issues .... I am also a total Noob in the use of Raspberry etc.


    Maybe you can help me out. I also bought some of the HD107s LEDs. I try to run 182 of them as Ambilight for my television. Actually i bought APA102 but this is what i got from Amazon instead.


    But different to you, i am not able to get my system running. The LED´s just work fine if they are just connectet to the powersource. So the will light up in white colour one after another. But if i connect them to my Raspberry Pi3 the apears to be dead. Not one of them is lighting then. If i remove the Data and Clock cable from the stripe, and repower the system, just the first LED´s of all will apear in blue colour.


    I use an external powersupply with 15 Amps, because i need about 12 in Full white colour. My Goal was to control it with the pi3 and the spi bus. So i connoct everything like the following:


    Pin 19 of the pi goes to Data

    Pin 23 of the pi goes to Clock

    Pin 25 of the pi goes to Ground and is also bridged to the ground of the mainpower sypply

    The currency (+5V) comes straight from the power supply.


    How did you wire your pi? And wich setting did you used for hyperion. I tried it with hypercon first but now i am using the alpha 9 Version of hyperion ng 2.

    I tried to set them as apa102 because i read about this in our german forums. Did you changed the baudrate or anything else? Did you use a total different LED-Type in the Settings ...maybe like the sk9822 or something like that?


    Would be great if you may help me out.


    Greets from Germany


    Achim Puscher

  • Michael Rochelle Curious what your capture settings are? (Decimation, sizes, smoothing, etc.)

    I just purchased the same HDMI to USB adapters. They work great, my color has greatly improved from being washed out by RCA degradation. However now im noticing extreme lag between whats on screen and the lights reacting that was not there before. I too am running a pi4B and had near zero lag previously. Im hoping there is a setting somewhere. Otherwise could there be a speed difference as i am running WS2801's instead of the newer APA107s like you?

  • Kratos84


    I don't quite remember the pins and I have my RPi4B in an enclosure.

    Here are my hardware settings in hyperion:


    The 5v+ and ground to my LEDs are wired directly to the power supply.

    I believe the Raspberri Pi isn't 5v tolerant. so I used a logic level shifter in between the RPis I/O and the LEDS Data and clock Pins.

    One side of the logic level shifter is connected to the RPis 3v3+ and Gnd, and the SPIs clock and data pins. The other side is connected to the 5V power supply + and gnd and the respective LEDs Clock and Data pins.

    If you're not using a logic level shifter, that could be your problem.

  • Michael Rochelle Thanks for the info! I had discovered i was trying to manipulate the platform capture instead of the USB capture and wondering why it was having no effect haha. But yes, once i reduced the resolution its been great. I actually even just now reduced it down lower to your recommended 720x480 and its working like butter.

    Also that logic level shifter looks a lot cleaner than my home built one haha. Someday when i decide to finally clean all this up in a self contained box I'll have to update to that.

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