No matter what I try, LEDs don't light up...ideas?

  • HI,


    I had a previous setup working, this was using the older Hyperion Java app. I had the USB grabber with the HDMI to A/V. Running 4K/HDR content started to become an issue. Otherwise this worked perfect. I saw DrZz's video, and with a new grabber decided to update everything.


    Here is my hardware

    • Raspberry PI 3B
    • 253 W2812b LEDs attached to the TV (confirmed working fine).
    • Had a 5v 10a PS but, reading the New Hyperion suggestions of 16.7a, I grabbed a 30a one.
    • A 4K 60hz grabber ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DHRRV3G/ )


    I followed DrZz's video (

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    ) to the T and no matter what I do, the LEDs do not not light up.


    As I followed that video, I also watched other videos and lots of searching on here to try to troubleshoot without luck.


    I verified points from the LEDS to the PI/Power supply is strong and connected with a voltmeter. The suggested power for my LEDS is 16.7a, I upgraded to a 30a one so it does not peak and should stay cooler. This runs the LEDs and the PI.


    I am running build/alpha 9, the newest one of Hyperion(no problems connecting via the web page). I have my Data pin(green wire) going from my LEDS to GPIO-18 on the PI as suggested. The LED type is w281X and it's set to GPIO-18. The layout should be perfectly correct with corner correct and 253 led as listed. Everything DOES have a common ground, double checked this one and am very clear (had LEDs flashing on the old setup till I did this)


    The Grabber works after setting USB capture, I open the preview, I see the video playing, and I see the LEDs where they should be lit up, everything from this look great.


    I did follow on DrZz's video to run these commands on the PI (so I can use GPIO-18)
    sudo systemctl disable --now hyperiond@pi
    sudo systemctl enable --now hyperiond@root


    Any other things to try ? I am lost now. LEDS did work fine with the old setup, plenty power, data pin has a solid connection as well as LEDs have plenty of power. Preview looks great, but, nothing to the LEDs..


    I am looking for ideas to troubleshoot this deeper, so if you have something I should try please let me know.


    Thanks in advance if ANYONE can help here before I pull out my hair !

  • Have you had looked into the Log (System->Log in the UI), if there are any errors reported?


    Are you able to run a single color effect from the Remote Control?


    I have checked the log, I see no errors or anything for that matter. I am not able to play any colors on the LEDs on the assorted tests... They stay completely black. Well, I had power connected while testing and I shut the whole system off, a bunch of the LEDS lit up for second.


    It looks like Hyperion is working correctly but, not outputting anything.


    Any other tests I can run that can confirm it's getting a signal out?


    Should I be adding back a Arduino into the MIX ?

  • Try another GPIO pin, make sure your using the GPIO number and not the physical pin number, change it in Hyperion and see if it works.


    As you have a meter you could quickly check the signal wiring, set it to ohms, unplug the signal wire to LEDs from the gpio connector and gently touch the the metal connector with 1 lead then touch the other on the data connection of the 2nd LED, what resistance do you get there, also do it at the first connection? and do another with just both meter leads touching each other. See what readings you get and hopefully rule out the wiring:thumbsup:

  • Try another GPIO pin, make sure your using the GPIO number and not the physical pin number, change it in Hyperion and see if it works.


    As you have a meter you could quickly check the signal wiring, set it to ohms, unplug the signal wire to LEDs from the gpio connector and gently touch the the metal connector with 1 lead then touch the other on the data connection of the 2nd LED, what resistance do you get there, also do it at the first connection? and do another with just both meter leads touching each other. See what readings you get and hopefully rule out the wiring:thumbsup:


    I did try some other pins without luck (I have been playing with this over a week now before posting this) and I used a PIN out of my PI to make sure it was listed right. Unless the commands that DrZz didn't work, is there anything else on the PI level I should check out ?


    I'll try the meter tonight if I get the time. I would love to get this fixed ASAP, I've been driving myself nuts with this....

  • Thing is @TheCoolDave , you shouldn't need any commands, If Hyperion is running which it probably should be after a reboot if all is well plus if you can reach the GUI then it is, so it really only leaves configuration or wiring and If you are unable to set an effect and see the results your only left with configuration and wiring.


    Go for the easy one first then, out of curiosity whats in your config.txt

    Code
    sudo cat /boot/config.txt


    If "dtparam=spi=on" is not there run this command and retry Hyperion Configuration


    Code
    sudo echo "dtparam=spi=on" >> /boot/config.txt && sudo reboot


    .


  • Thanks again, when I get home tonight I will post it and do these tests ! Thanks again !

  • there was something with PWM and audio PIN>> somebody has sollution of this >> let me see if i can find it.



    Quote


    This has resolved it for me


    In my /etc/modprobe.d/raspi-blacklist.conf I added the following:


    blacklist snd_bcm2835
    blacklist i2c-bcm2708


    this person ; On boot, the boot effect runs beautifully/perfect, but after that the leds flicker uncontrollably with ledstrip ws2812b controller PWM and GPIO18 on Hyperion.NG 2.09


    so maybe it helps for you.


  • Here is what is in config.txt


    it appears to be there...



    Try another GPIO pin, make sure your using the GPIO number and not the physical pin number, change it in Hyperion and see if it works.


    As you have a meter you could quickly check the signal wiring, set it to ohms, unplug the signal wire to LEDs from the gpio connector and gently touch the the metal connector with 1 lead then touch the other on the data connection of the 2nd LED, what resistance do you get there, also do it at the first connection? and do another with just both meter leads touching each other. See what readings you get and hopefully rule out the wiring:thumbsup:


    I took my meter, set it to ohms. Connected a lead to GPIO-18 and the other to the data wire..


    I was jumping up and down between 05.xx and 08.xx (it was just jumping all over the place)


    I will have to create something to get the LEDs to GPIO-18....


  • The /etc/modprobe.d/raspi-blacklist.conf does not exist on my PI...


  • Well 05.xx - 08.xx doesn't really mean anything without the other figures!


    Here's a better idea if you have a spare SD card and 15 mins
    Flash the latest Libreelec image https://libreelec.tv/downloads_new/
    When it boots complete the setup and enable SSH when prompted, when done SSH into the Pi as you done in DrZ tutorial


    Run this 1 command taken from @Paulchen-Panther 's Awesome Libre-Elec Tutorial - Its the easiest and fastest way to get Hyperion, Excluding flashing Hyperbian


    Code
    wget -qO- https://git.io/JU4Zx | bash


    It will do all the work and reboot the Pi when done.


    Go to the PiIP-Port and If the effects still don't work after setting them up form scratch there's a good chance the 5-8 resistance is the problem or your not setting something up correctly in the UI

  • Well 05.xx - 08.xx doesn't really mean anything without the other figures!


    05.xx - 08.xx was from GPIO-18 to the data cable.


    I tried it, at the END of the 253 LEDS, I tried there, the data was between 03.XX and 04.XX. So it's seems it's getting signal, I could see it being a little weak towards the end of it...


    I also have run a larger cable from GPIO-18 and cliped it on to the data pin on the leds with no change. Just to make sure that is running fine. Did this just as a quick test.


    Remember, this all worked perfectly before and I am using the same exact cable, ACCEPT I soldered in a end so I can plug it into the PI, it's a very solid connection, I assure you. This was used with the Java app before and I did have a Arduino in the mix before. On the Arduino, I had it soldered in due to the pins being kind of shaky and when that happend I would get flashing of the LEDs. Soldered it and it never blinked again.


    Not exactly sure what could of happened here.



    I did all this... rebooted, Reconfigured everything, Video was being captured, LEDS setup correctly, 0 from the LEDs... No change. Personally I would prefer RetroPI over Kodi if I was to have it...LOL


    What else could I be missing in the UI ?


    I am almost thinking of buying new LEDs that there is a problem there because everything else is fine...


    Ok, setup..what I did...


    LED Hardware, Controller type - set as RPI PWM - WS281X ONLY other change here, Hardware LED count set to 253, confirmed GPIO-18 is set, saved and LED layout. setup the layout, Input position, etc, Saved, Checked LED layout picture, should be perfect.


    Capture Hardware - Change check to only have "Enable USB capture" and save. Confirm in Preview, TV is streaming in and LEDs are where they should be.


    No other changes, it appears it should be working...unless I missed another step ? ? ?

  • Sometimes ledlayout isnt good or saved well enough into the Hyperion system..


    But it works now :whistle:

  • idk man, you seem adamant your wiring is good, but i would of expected to see this with the wire unplugged from the gpio - from start of wire to the first connection - something close to zero maybe 0.3ohm, at the 2nd led id expect it to be higher as your also measuring the resistance in the 1st led, touching both leads together should give you 0.00 ohms but there's usually resistance in peoples leads, so you'd take that figure an remove it from the other readings to give you the actual resistance, Again 5 or 8 before the . is resistance in the wire - note my readings would be in Ohms and not Kili or Mega ohms, there is no signals being measured above your purely checking the wire and 1st connection to the strip as any resistance will play a massive part in the data signal you are sending down that wire.


    makes no difference if kodi or retropi as it still doesn't work, that was just a quick and easy change of platform to see what happened and it points more and more towards your wiring and or hardware. I take it setting the effect was not a success either

  • idk man, you seem adamant your wiring is good, but i would of expected to see this with the wire unplugged from the gpio - from start of wire to the first connection - something close to zero maybe 0.3ohm, at the 2nd led id expect it to be higher as your also measuring the resistance in the 1st led, touching both leads together should give you 0.00 ohms but there's usually resistance in peoples leads, so you'd take that figure an remove it from the other readings to give you the actual resistance, Again 5 or 8 before the . is resistance in the wire - note my readings would be in Ohms and not Kili or Mega ohms, there is no signals being measured above your purely checking the wire and 1st connection to the strip as any resistance will play a massive part in the data signal you are sending down that wire.


    makes no difference if kodi or retropi as it still doesn't work, that was just a quick and easy change of platform to see what happened and it points more and more towards your wiring and or hardware. I take it setting the effect was not a success either


    The only reason why I feel the wiring is good, is because it was all working perfectly before. No issues anywhere. I did try to run a new data cable and I didn't get any change in the issue. I disconnected the wire from my Arduino from the last setup, soldered an end on it, and connected it to the PI. No major pulls or damage could of happened.


    When I did my checks with the voltmeter, I was confirming continuity around the whole LEDs. I could confirm from the end of the cable that plugs into the PI, all the way to the END of the LEDs. This gave a good signal. This was the extent of the testing I did before. I just kind of figured this would be enough. I'll be honest, I got a new meter and still trying to figure it all out, I'll try to grab my old one and try again.


    I'll try to find a clip so I can clip on the LED in assorted spots. Just taking an end and touching the LEDs in assorted spots did nothing(on the center pin). I was assuming I would need to reboot the PI to check that. Or should it be always sending data and if I touch another spot, I should see a result ?


    I might just spend the $35 buy replacement LEDs just in case. I wanted to avoid that, it will take a few hours to rip it all out, measure everything out, corners, never mind my TV has a ribbed pattern on the back of it, so I need to buy heavy duty double sided tape to hold it... The LEDs are not sticky enough to stay on. I will bench test to see if the LEDs light up before changing it all out


    It's appearing, its' cables (hard to see at this point) or LEDs themselves are the issue (also kind of of hard to see). It could be the PI, I might be able to borrow one.


    I'm kind of wishing I never touched it and just dealt with 1080p video with it....sigh..

  • if your checking resistance the meter sends a test current out a very small amount so disconnecting it is enough to do some measurements so the pi doesn't need to be on or sending any signals etc, Ideally you still want to know for sure as you'd be pretty annoyed if you bought another set of LEDS to find the same result to then find it was down to wiring the whole time but if you ran a new cable that kind of rules that out,


    I only went down that route as you wanted some deeper troubleshooting and you already had a meter so thought it would be the most efficient way for ruling out your signal wire to the strip. as if you go to the very 1st data connection on the strip and the other end on the next data connection you should see the resistance in that 1 led, each time you move the lead down it should increase slightly, if it goes open circuit or a completely diff reading from the others you've located the bad section but i realise this may not be a easy task and put some people out of their comfort zone.


    sometimes the auto ranging on meters can cause problems and is best to set the range manually until the decimal point is a more readable scale like 00.00 instead of 0.000 to avoid the fluctuation as the meter settles down.


    Borrowing a Pi could be your quickest and simplest way or crack out the ardruino again to see what happens.


    Good Luck

  • I know this might seem like the obvious answer and I am a noob so what do I know. But I have done Dr Z video twice and the problem I have had getting the lights to come on has been when I split the micro usb cable. Because the Pi was fine I assumed the lights were fine. Both times I had to go back and re-jog those cables a bit.


    Hope it helps.

  • I was wondering the same @Hocus but @TheCoolDave ran the LibreELEC install


    Has anyone tried Platform capture instead of USB just in case?


    either way


    If you can get to the GUI go to System -> Log
    change to Debug -> Save Settings


    Reload the page - you should now see a error box appear, check your Configuration Section again, make sure LED Hardware, Controller and Layout are correct, if using USB go into Capturing Hardware then make sure It is enabled in Instance Capture, The USB Capture section you should be able to change from automatic to manually define your device if it is being detected by the o/s. Go to the Remote Control tab and make sure the correct Components are on and not set to off, You should see the Card in the Source Selection Section with a status next to it.


    If its not lighting up after that go back to the System -> Log and see what's in that box


    The Hyperion android app id try that and see if you can control the LEDS directly from there as its so much easier than using the GUI to set an effect or solid colour, connects directly with fast and instantaneous reaction.


    Failing that, screenshot your settings and post your logs,
    Good Luck



  • I'll enable tonight while doing other testing. Man I want this to work. I did buy replacement LEDs but, if I run into the same problem, I will just return them...


    I have the App on my phone from my last setup, I'll try it too...


    Did get a PI I could borrow for the weekend...

  • So it's seems it's getting signal, I could see it being a little weak towards the end of it...



    maybe i break in in this conversation, but did you ( i dont see it mentioned) power your ledstrip FROM BOTH SIDES??


    so beginning and end connected to GND and 5 volt line

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