Tried hyperion in 2017, stopped and now starting from scratch, need guidance

  • As the title states, I experimented with hyperion in 2017, got it working although I still had some issues but unfortunately I had to stop the project. Now, I want to start over again and see if I can do a better job, starting with choosing the correct hardware (for my needs).


    In 2017 I used a ws2813 strip and a pi zero w and soldered a little circuit with a logic level shifter, capacitator and resistor which I hid inside the frame. So I had 2 power cables and the pi loosely attached to the frame (and that annoyed me) and from the pi I had 2 jumper cables going to the ledstrip (very unstable). I had cut the led strips so I could attach power at multiple points. I used a 7A power supply. The pi and leds were connected spi.
    When I touch the cable that powers the leds now, the leds start flashing and changing colors, same when touching the jumper cables. This is not a stable situation.


    What I would like to do now, is a frame (with a led strip mounted on it) and (if possible) only 1 power cable attached to it.
    Preferably I would like to mount the device that drives the leds in a rectangular tube (15x15mm, length as long as needed). I read about ESP8266 ESP-01 devices (and other), some of which are that small.
    As I understand I might be needing a capacitator and resistor too, which I could integrate in the same tube (like I did in 2017). Soldering is not an issue (meaning: I'll do my best).
    In this way I could have a frame with everything integrated and only 1 (power supply) cable going in, with a properly connected powerconnector.


    So the question is, is the above possible and what hardware is recommended for this setup? I have a pi4b+ running elsewhere in the house on which I would like to run hyperion too (so I don't really need the pi zero).


    Hope someone can give me good advice. I thought better to ask before, preventing troubles then needing a lot of help afterwards, building on wrong choices.


    Thanks,


    Wim

  • I would use the Pi4, more CPU quadcore power


    take a look at my build, you can see the frame there >.https://hyperion-project.org/threads/basic-usb-grabber-setup-hyperion-ng-1-00-béta-4k-1080p-ready-apa102-on-raspi3b.11160/ you can also see that the ledstrip is powered from both sides, i only shortened it but not cut it in pieces..


    i made the frame out of electrical tube PVC 3/4 size, inside the tube is 5/8 tube so this makes it possible to twist the angle of the leds.
    solder everything for low resistance on the joints ( also the PIN's ) no rectangles but fluid corners.



    bring everything to GND, also from the Pi4 > use more then one GND PIN to do this.
    there is schematics for one or two PSU setup here >> https://hyperion-project.org/t…switch-on-the-rpi4.10701/
    if connected okay with a very decent PSU like Meanwell then you don't need electronics like resistor and/or capacitor or even a logic level shifter on SPI. Pi4 can handle that easy i think.



    good PSU>>https://www.aliexpress.com/ite…b201602_,searchweb201603_




    goodluck with your second build :pirate::D

  • Yeah @Wim on the ESP8266, you could then just install Hyperion on your other Pi wherever it may be and as long as the other D1 mini or ?? is on the same network - it should work, unsure of what is best or easiest to configure in Hyperion tho or if you get any sort of delays when using it but some of those smaller ESP8266 boards have relay modules built in that you could take advantage of to kill the power to the LED's, quite cool lil boards. Im sure if you do a forum search for board models a few posts post should appear :thumbup: and https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED


    Assuming going down the ESP8266 route, the LED strip and the pi4 will not be close to each other, as you never really mentioned the sources or capture device you will be using.

  • Thanks a lot for answering guys.


    Indeed, I would like to run hyperion on my pi4 which is in another room and runs also tvheadend etc. So I want to connect the leds via Wi-Fi, hence the 8266.


    Forgot to mention I want to use android grabber on my nvidia shield for capturing.


    I searched the forum for esp-01 but could find hardly anything. What I don 't know is whether all or just some of these small boards can do the same (have enough power) and have the pins I need that the normal sized ones have.


    Do I understand the apa102 is the best to use and does it work with 8266-01w?


    Can I use the same power for leds and
    8266-01? If so, I'll search for connection schemes.


    Thanks!


    Wim

  • I questioned the same thing the other week, Ardruino Uno vs Leardardo Micro Pro - Uno is same size as the original Pi and the micro is 1x2 inch - Spec wise there both the same - I was mind blown :roflmao: so quite sure the Webmos D1 Mini and the other board you mentioned will be a similar spec and more than capable of doing the job, but they will probably require the level shifter to bump up the signals to the 5v mark.


    LEDS should work with any of the boards, WLED will run the WS2812B and the APA 102's so the choice is yours.


    Yes you can run it all from the same supply as the lights, there was a recent webmos d1 mini wiring setup very recently in the forum but i cannot find it, maybe someone else will remember where it was and post the link for you :thumbup:

  • Found this about the esp8266-01 (https://randomnerdtutorials.co…6-pinout-reference-gpios/)

    Above diagram, combined with what I read on other sites and diagram below it seems I need to use GPIO2 and GPIO0, one being SLCK and the other MISO
    I think GPIO2=SCLK, GPIO=MISO


    Found diagram below
    (https://ambimod.jimdofree.com/2017/01/12/tuto-faire-de-l-ambilight-sans-fil-avec-un-esp8266-nodemcu-et-la-bibliothèque-fastled/)
    in which I recognize the esp8266-01. I assume the red thing next to that is the usb connector for power, which I don't want to use.
    But have no clue what the thing between the 01 and the usb connector is! HELP NEEDED HERE

    I think "I’ve managed to get it working by adding 2 pull up 10k resistors. Linking 3v3 and the Enable and GPIO2 pins." means 2 resistors 10k, one between 3.3V and CH_PD/EN and one between CH_PD/EN and GPIO2?


    And then the 74HC125 needs to be added to the scheme.


    EDIT: and instead of usb I need to connect power to 3,3V of the 01.
    EDIT2: I think the little unknow thing changes 5V current to 3,3V for the 01. But that is it? Some sort of small level shifter?

  • EDIT: and instead of usb I need to connect power to 3,3V of the 01.
    EDIT2: I think the little unknow thing changes 5V current to 3,3V for the 01. But that is it? Some sort of small level shifter?


    yes, how i see it ( had a little look at Ambimods page) the ESP-01 doesn't have a 5volts line input but only 3.3volts.
    follow the orange line, this is 3.3volts


    its a little chip that converts the 5 volts to 3.3~3.5 volts



    also, you don't need a logic level shifter like 74HC125 for that, if Ambimod is doing without this then it isn't nessecary, trust him :whistle:

  • and a tip, would you need to cross long distances to the leds from the logic board then use twisted pair cable.


    thats special made with super low internal resistance to transport serial port like RX/TX signals over 100 meters.
    You don't need a level shifter for that, what you need a level shifter for is that datasignal is already too weak from your logic board,
    in that case ( if leds don't fire up) then you need to boost the signal.


    i always say, the less electronics is needed for same result the better it is.

  • im on the fence on this one but my thoughts are the same as Jeroen, maybe i am missing out by not having it but i am fairly confident the PSU has what it needs and the capactior may only be required for the brick style units that may not be able to supply on demand

  • Thanks guys for your info about the capacitator.


    What about "ESP8266 gpio2 should not be LOW during boot." and the solution "I’ve managed to get it working by adding 2 pull up 10k resistors. Linking 3v3 and the Enable and GPIO2 pins."
    Does it indeed mean 2 resistors 10k, one between 3.3V and CH_PD/EN and one between CH_PD/EN and GPIO2?


    I found this

    partly because of the samen issue
    (https://hackaday.com/2015/03/1…sive-esp8266-wifi-module/)

  • What about "ESP8266 gpio2 should not be LOW during boot



    GPIO is pulled high or low with resistor it seems, the question i have>> if the ESP8266 is "booted" what do you need it for then?



    Does it indeed mean 2 resistors 10k, one between 3.3V and CH_PD/EN and one between CH_PD/EN and GPIO2?


    i don't know, you should ask a member that has a ESP8266 setup, it can't probably harm anyway just to try it out, the only thing happens is that current is dropping.


    the only thing is see is more and more electronics to "solve" a problem which isn't there.
    Start the build, see how it goes and what you need after that to complete.
    Too much questions about something that isn't being build yet, the outcome of all your questions will result in your build.
    but first i would do, start the build like Ambimod has shown you in the schematics.

  • the question i have>> if the ESP8266 is "booted" what do you need it for then?


    From the above link:
    "Once I connect the ws2812 to the ESP01 - on GPIO02 - the esp01 would not boot anymore
    ...
    Once the ESP01 is booted up - I can plug in the ws2812 and it’ll work. Any power cuts or restarts end up with the ESP01 failing to boot."

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