Flickering on bright colors.... odd..

  • use the Hyperion app mate or the webui and set it to solid red, testing it the way i mentioned above only using the signal wire should show nearly 0 volts mate, if your doing it as mentioned and you are seeing 4-5v then there is a problem.

  • use the Hyperion app mate or the webui and set it to solid red, testing it the way i mentioned above only using the signal wire should show nearly 0 volts mate, if your doing it as mentioned and you are seeing 4-5v then there is a problem.


    Oh, you want me to test the SIGNAL wire, I was only testing the + and - across the LEDs and the PS...


    The Data wire (greeen ?) show s 0.00 among different spots testing...

  • yeah i don't think power to your LEDS is your problem, Id be tempted to pull that 5.1v at the PSU down to 4.8v-4.9v just to see if that helps any but in all honesty i'm running out of ideas mate


    I'll strip the power supply bear, get some good connectors for my meter and set it to 4.9 - 5.0


    Too late tonight to deal with it

  • SO, site was down for upgrades the other so, didn't get to reply to this.


    I adjusted the voltage that was at 5.09v, after a bunch of adjusting, I got it to EXACTLY 5.00v


    After dropping the brightness, the flickering appears to be gone(bright red does not flicker at all) but, the BIGGEST issue now. The light still randomly shut off.


    We are watching a video, lights are on, something on screen changes, the lights all go off, nothing, then a few seconds later, the screen changes, and now we lights on. This actually some times causes flickering on all LEDS(they are going on and off).


    This did not happen when I was connected to GPIO-18.. ONLY when I am using the UNO... but, connecting to GPIO-18's lag was soo bad.


    Any ideas on this one ?

  • Hello everyone. First post here. I have a similar issue in that I get flickering on the last part of the strip (WS2812B RGB) 5050 with plenty of power (10A). Happens only on yellow or red. I use a 1st gen RPI and latest Hyperbian and everything seems correctly grounded. I tested with the buddy app with single color and it's clear the issue is in that range (yellow / red) and lowering brightness in half does not resolve the issue.

    My layout is 129 LEDs and the issue seems to be happening around the last 20'ish LEDs at the end of the strip. Question #1 - should i create a new thread with this or is here OK given that there's some similarity?

    Question #2 - any idea how to easily troubleshoot the strip without Hyperion? Laying around the house i have some PCs, a RPI4, RPI 1 and an Arduino Uno.

    Thanks!

  • it's clear the issue is in that range (yellow / red) and lowering brightness in half does not resolve the issue.



    i think that you didn't connect +5 volts and GND from both sides onto the ledstrip/ >> only the beginning.. :huh::whistling:

    if you do that then great possibillity is that colours are incorrect at the end of your string..



    connect +5 volts and GND from both sides and bring GND to the PI and PSU is my advice. :thumbup:

    note, use more than one GND pin on the PI ! at least two or three GND pins

  • After dropping the brightness, the flickering appears to be gone(bright red does not flicker at all) but, the BIGGEST issue now. The light still randomly shut off.


    i've read something about this, i think it was the refresh time in Hyperion.NG that needed to be altered in last version 2.09

    that causes the stream being abrupted to the Arduino.


    Lord-Grey there was a setting in Adalight protocol yes?

  • Thank you genius person Lighting-guy77 - that was it!!!

    I didn't realize the strip had to be connected at both ends although i suspected that was a possibility!! I'll try the multi-ground into the PI next even though the flickering seems to have gone away.


    One more question for the experts (now totally off thread, sorry :/ ). I'm using a 1080p USB capture card with passthrough (generic from amazon) with a RPI version 1 - any suggestion on a good blend for resolution/FPS/decimation for USB capture that wouldn't overtax the hardware?

  • any suggestion on a good blend for resolution/FPS/decimation for USB capture that wouldn't overtax the hardware?

    good that you change that connections to the ledstrip! happens a lot when the current has to flow to numberous leds > each led is in fact a mini-resisitor, because you are working with DC voltage/current its no problem (from the same source) to eject +5 volts and a common GND to each side.



    your question; you are seeking the whole grale like all of them >> the problem is the PI0 its not a quadcore but single core>> hence the price.

    therefor the module is to be tweaked?? yes........ BUT.. it won't help you really much

    if you persist in using the PI0 then i would suggest:

    -15 frames/sec

    - decimation between 4 and 12 ( the higher count, the paler colours)

    - resolution the lowest possible in 16/9


    even with this settings chance to big succes is slim, if you really want results and not spend to much then go for a Raspi3b with quadcore.

    they are not expensive but very strong and not to new, so everything runs hardware wise with Hyperion.NG



    goodluck with your choice.

  • TheCoolDave just to throw this back on track, what baud rate did you eventually settle on and now you have the red under control what about knocking the baud down a notch as what if your setting it too high and the Adruino is dropping them or causing errors as you said this has been since Adruino was added, everything is working then error, led shut off then it restarts again where a 4 wire would have picked up form where it left off but 3 wire have to start again.


    Just thinking out loud but makes perfect sense in my head ^^

  • Sorry on the delay on the reply, I kind of put this to side due to other projects, I really want this working perfectly...I've been not using it because of the issues. STILL a little laggy too... noticeable as well.


    My Baud settings are 500000


    I am thinking about just getting rid of the UNO and got back to the GPO-18 port again, no errors in lights just randomly shutting off, just very laggy and if that can tweaked.


    Could my capture device be adding the lag ? If so, is there another one that can deal with 4K 60 and HDR/HDR 10 that does not break the bank open ?

  • OK, let me set things up and I will try to adjust this again.


    Maybe this will help with lag a little as well as the lights just randomly shutting off...


    I was following YouTube videos... and 2 of the videos that setup with the UNO say to use 500,000


    I'll give anything a shot if it works...

  • TheCoolDave I had some very similar issues with slightly different hardware. I noticed it when the white was at 100% i'd get weird pops of color-- sometimes frequently. Like you, I noticed that when I turned down the brightness on the backlight slightly, it resolved the flickering.

    The funny thing is, and this should be unrelated: my phones LED screen was doing the same thing after a software update (and possibly after a low grade drop, but i don't remember). After the Android update i was never able to use the screen at full brightness again, or it would turn bright green and pop back to normal or bright purple. Lowering the brightness always resolved it.

    I also had a responsiveness issue w/ lag when I was running a test on youtube. I made a crap ton of changes without documenting, but I think a full system reset fixed that. If any of my issues return or if I figure out what I changed, I'll def let you know

  • I made a crap ton of changes without documenting, but I think a full system reset fixed that. If any of my issues return or if I figure out what I changed, I'll def let you know

    Thanks,


    It might be time to rebuilt it. I am thinking about completely getting rid of the UNO, the LAG was bad but, compared to the issues I have had with the UNO, I am hoping I can tweak it better. The logic here is, less devices means less possible lag.


    I am looking to have this as solid option but, so far it does not work right and what is the point of having a system like this that does always work right when you need it?

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