which MCU

  • I stupidly ordered the wrong MCU for another project and got a PRO Nano 5v 16MHz with no micro usb, main prob is my serial to usb cable is being used to control the TV so either way im unclipping the wiring at the back of the TV so while im in there......

    Current Setup:

    174x WS2812B

    Micro Pro Clone 5v 16MHZ


    Everything is working sweet and really impressed with it but my other prob is I have 2 of those Micro Pro clones connected, 1 for LED and other for IR and when I rebooted the other day the LED wouldnt work, its quite hard to check output paths when both have identical names ^^ but it turned out Hyperion was trying to output to IR Micro PRO instead of the other one, so ideally switching 1 of them out just to make it easier to identify at a glance.

    I picked up a few other boards so have a few options

    ESP8266 ESP-12 WeMos D1 Mini

    NodeMCU V3 ESP8266 12E

    Geekcraft UNO R3

    Would i benefit from using any of the others or am I at the limitations of the LEDS on the current board and should leave it as it is?

  • Spot on TPmodding ill see how it goes, looks like its worth it for the effects and setup/update alone, pretty sweet so far, you should do a sticky promoting that method as setup was a breeze esp the config section in Hyperion.

    What i did like that I was unaware of was the out the box Wifi, I didnt realise it essentially created its own network that Hyperion could use so could be totally seperate but yeah adding it to the main one makes it do more stuff :D

  • 1 more question, everything is up and running but have noticed when the majority of the screen is white the leds flicker and quite noticeable esp when using 1080, I don't have a level shifter or resistor in the circuit but either have 1 here somewhere or still to be delivered in the next few days (ive lost track), u think that level shifter will fix the problem?

    I ran through the effects and when a lot of white and red is involved the flickering starts

    also the D1 Mini is connected to the Pi via usb, grounded to the leds and using same earth as the pi.

  • no wladi 3-4 inches extending from original 3 pin plug - plug was removed and decent 1mm core (slightly thicker than original wire)

    PSU -> LED is Fused at 12A and suitable for 30A

    It was up and running fine on the Adruino - If anything i removed maybe 3 inches or wiring and solid solder to the board - even reflowed it earlier to make sure, When i added the shifter it just done a rainbow effect but I could have wired that wrong but i re-soldered the Adruino back in as FastLED was working

    https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/issues/230 came across that and a few other posts like it so will do some further reading and go back to it

  • so pulled it apart again as WLED with the wemos was a cool setup, rewired the shifter and prob still there, ran back through it all again and in Led Preferences

    Enable automatic brightness limiter -> LED voltage (Max. current for a single LED)

    it was on the default 55mA - with previous current draw tests on the leds being under what i expected i dropped it down to 5V efficient just to see and the prob was 90% sorted - ended up with the flicker like the way it is if smoothing is not on, popped the shifter back out, everything still running fine, with supply to the LEDs fused i disabled the Enable automatic brightness limiter completely and zero flickers or strobing.

    Might help someone else out experiencing similar issues, as after seeing a lot of other posts and bug reports on other sites I was ready to condem the board as a poor quality clone or look into powering from the 3v line on the pi to see if that helped any - Glad i didn't need to go down that route as usb is so much neater :D

  • and in Led Preferences

    Enable automatic brightness limiter -> LED voltage (Max. current for a single LED)

    What's that setting? It's only there in alpha 2.09?

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