Discussion: Hyperion no solder Tutorial

  • Hi,
    I would like to say thanks a lot for this perfect tutorial. I did the extended setup adding external grabber/HDMI splitter to be able to use all of my video devices - which got me through a bit of pain as some HDMI sources initially did not like to send their signal through the splitter.


    Anyway, I found that with the suggested parts, 120 WD2801 LED on my 55'' TV work just fine, provided I connect both ends to 5V and GND.


    In order to keep the space around (and behind) the TV neat, I used a bit of extension (originally wanted to use a piece of CAT5 cable but ended up using four single wires) and put all of the boxed electronics in my hi-fi cabinet.


    Anyway, now I'm left with two minor issues:


    I set Hyperion up to (hopefully) ignore black bars, which generally seems to work, except that I get more color output at the TV bottom than at the top (top often remains dark) - I may need to experiment with the settings a bit more.


    More annoying is, with some stable image sources (e.g. my Mac mini showing just the desktop image without any animation) there is still movement in the background lighting, and I can't quite figure out why that is. Same applies to the FireTV when in screensaver mode (usually a stable photo - no animation).


    There is no issue with the AV receiver or BDP displaying their menu screens - colors are rock solid in those cases. DVD/BluRay and even LD (upscaled via the AV receiver) also seem to work ok.


    Like I said, will keep toying around with the setup for a bit and if it doesn't get me anywhere will use the respective sections in this forum to ask further.


    Oh, yes, one thing: The edge connectors suggested in the tutorial have quite long wires and are pretty stiff as long as the wires are left in the "ribbon cable" configuration they are shipped with. I resolved that somewhat by pulling the wires apart but they still refuse to stick neatly to the TV back. Flat edge connectors I found on Amazon would not work as they are only 10mm wide (WS2801 strips now come as 12mm) - I'll conduct some more tests to make the edges a bit more "living room friendly" :)


    Other than that - wonderful, got me set up in virtually no time and the result is awesome!


    Thanks,
    Jerry

  • I've come quite an end yesterday. I solderd the led strip and connected it to the Arduino and RPi (LibreElec). As soon as the Arduino program starts, the leds light up according to the program. So the hardware is finished (except that I still have to attach the leds to the TV :) )



    But I have some troubles with configuration Hyperion. After installation through SSH, I created a config file with these settings:



    When I upload this file to the RPi and stop and start Hyperion nothing happens.


    I know ttyUSB0 is the correct output device because I first ran the following SSH code: "ls /dev/tty*" without the Arduino connected to my RPi and then I ran the code again after connection the Arduino. "ttyUSB0" is the device that was added to the list.


    Has anyone an idea what I'm doing wrong?


    Edit:
    I understand SourceForge is down so probably Hyperion is not correctly installed on my RPi. Through my lack of knowledge in I didn't understand this from the SSH traffic screen :) I'll try again as soons as SourceForge is up and running again.

  • One thing: you may selected the wrong system at ssh tap if you pushed your config with this function.


    Handling of Hyperion is sadly not that "easy" how it could be. And my knowledge of adalight is very very limited (regarding options)
    @Rick164 @penfold42
    May you interested in opening a thread at the hardware section to cover all informations to arduino usage with Hyperion?

  • Thanks for the reminder. I'll wait for the servers of SourceForge to be back up again before trying anything else. If I need any more help I'll open a new thread, but I'm optimistic and try myself first :) Thanks for the help so far.

  • Hi all


    this is my first post on this forum.



    I've been read tutorial very carefully and in my opinion is the best solution of ambilight ins Raspberry.
    I have my own Pi about half a year but when I was choosing hardware to my HTPC I was sure that ambilight is one of most important thing next step of digital sound card.


    I like good sound on movies so I decided to buy PiFi Digi couple months ago.
    Because I'm not good in electronic I'm wondering about future problems with connect in the same time PiFi Digi and ambilight.
    I'm planning solder wires from ambilight directly to the board of PiFi Digi.


    Maybe some of you can confirm this solution as a good and safety.

  • i dont know which pins pifi uses... but in worst case you can use a arduino to controll the leds over usb from pi :)


    May be a solution but I want to avoid this.


    I was search the internet but didn't find an answer and even this kind of connection.
    I choose PiFi Digi because I have speakers without digital input.
    My Creative 5.1 USB sound card had many problems with loading drivers when Pi in booting and some times sound delay during playback.

  • Hello again.


    My ambilight is set and tested according to manual on this site.
    Led flashing correctly and almost everything is perfect.


    After installing and testing I have a new problem.
    During watching movie, searching for subtitles or pause system sometimes crash or freeze screen.


    Before installation I had no problem with that.
    Now I'm trying to find a solution but probably I'll install a new OSMC system.


    The biggest problem during setting ambilight was connecting pins and Pi-Fi Digi to GPIO, but I create little loops on wires and squeeze them by the Pi-Fi.
    Of course all wires was correctly isolated to avoid a short circuit to another pin.

  • I have this error running Hyperion on Raspberrypi 3 with osmc (latest version):


    Opening UART: /dev/spidev0.0
    Unable to open RS232 device (IO Exception: ::tcgetattr, file /home/sascha/hyperion/dependencies/build/serial/src/impl/unix.cc, line 119.)


    I´m using APA102 leds and this is config file:



    // DEVICE CONFIGURATION
    "device" :
    {
    "name" : "MyHyperionConfig",
    "type" : "AdalightApa102",
    "output" : "/dev/spidev0.0",
    "rate" : 1000000,
    "delayAfterConnect" : 0,
    "colorOrder" : "rgb"

  • I was going to create a new post but I guess this is a better place for this question.


    I have a 50" tv that will be using APA102 LEDs with. 60 per Meter. I think in the end it will come up to around 170 to 200 LEDs. The powering unit will be a 20 amp 5v


    I have already ordered a Raspberry Pi 3 (all my content will go through OSMC or OpenElec) and I know it has the SPI pins so it should be able to run the APA102 LEDs by itself without anything.


    My issue is regarding the FPS. I really want these effects to be seamless so I kind of want it as close to realtime as possible (im not using any screen grabber just straight from rpi)
    (examples)


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    This video shows what I am trying to achieve.


    For this type of speed and the amount of LEDs do I need a 74HCT chip level shifter. Im not amazing at the solder gun so im not sure how well that would work.


    There is also the arduino route so that the RPI doesnt have to do the work. Is this way faster or slower. If I went with this route with arduino would be best


    I could also go the teensy 3.2 with the octows2811 adapter (is this overkill) This wiring seems the easiest


    So I guess my real question is to control around 200 APA102 LEDs with relatively seamless operation is the RPI 3 Alone sufficient.
    Do I need to add a 74HCT chip level shifter?
    Do I need to step up to an Arduino?
    Do I need to go the Teensy 3.2 Route?

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