Recommendations for 100inch 4k UHD setup

  • Hey dear community =)


    My current setup:

    - Xiaomi 4k UHD projector

    - Chromecast Ultra

    - FENGMI 100-Inch Anti-light Projector Black Screen


    I played with the thoughts of adding ambilight to it for a while and now I came across this forum.

    Sadly I am not able to find any articles about other 100 Inch setups using the search.

    Is there any existing post that you can recommend me to have a look at for my setup?

    If not, could you recommend which hardware I should buy?


    Thanks!

  • While my setup is "only" 85 inch, I feel like it could handle 100 no problem. I inject power on the front and back of all 4 sides and use 1000uf capacitors at each power connection. I have a 5v 30a PSU with 10 AWG that runs to a distribution block centered on the back of the TV and use 20 AWG to run to all the corners. You'll need to figure out what LEDs you want, then get a rough estimate of how many you'll need, and figure out your max power consumption to get the appropriate amperage PSU. For reference, I'm at 334 WS2812b LEDs and the max current is about 22 amps. https://imgur.com/a/Yp0Y0St

  • While my setup is "only" 85 inch, I feel like it could handle 100 no problem. I inject power on the front and back of all 4 sides and use 1000uf capacitors at each power connection. I have a 5v 30a PSU with 10 AWG that runs to a distribution block centered on the back of the TV and use 20 AWG to run to all the corners. You'll need to figure out what LEDs you want, then get a rough estimate of how many you'll need, and figure out your max power consumption to get the appropriate amperage PSU. For reference, I'm at 334 WS2812b LEDs and the max current is about 22 amps. https://imgur.com/a/Yp0Y0St

    Hello,


    I also have an 85” that I’m looking to try and set up with the lighting. You have the first setup that I’ve seen where each side is powered for all four strips and it makes a lot of sense. I’m a little new to this.. do you happen to have any additional closer up photos of the wiring for each strip where there are resistors and capacitors? I’m still trying to sort out the best way to set it up but I do like how you’ve done it. Thanks.

  • You only need the resistor where the data comes in, not at every connection, but here's what the starting LED looks like. The resistor has heat shrink on it, but they're bidirectional. For the other corners, you'd bring the data wire directly from the end of one strip to the start of the next.

  • Okay so just the one resistor from the Arduino data line but a capacitor at both ends of each led strip is what it seems like you’re saying. My calculation was just under 22 amps as well (estimating the number of LEDs) so I was looking at a 30 amp PSU.

  • D34DC3N73R I have a question ❓ I was running 144 per meter strips around my 55inch which put me at 467Leds Total. I was using a 5v 60a power supply with a pi3 B+ and a capture card. I didn't use a distribution block but I did inject power at each end of all four strips but after awhile I would get crazy flicker and color change. Switch out the psu things ran great then boom same thing happen. So I switched to 60 leds per meter which puts me at 226 leds total same set up and crazy flicker am I doing something wrong not sure how to combat this. I checked for voltage drops and none. Psu is set to 5.2v I'm running hyperion alpha9

  • Is your pi3B+ powered by the same PSU? If not, you need to use a common ground. You'd need to connect a ground from the PSU, to one of the ground pins on the pi. The next thing I'd check is the signal. When the flickering happens, do you see any change in the LED Visualization preview in the Hyperion UI? And finally, how far away is your PSU from your LEDs? What gauge of wire are you running? Is it the same coming from the PSU and the wires breaking out to the corners? If you didn't use a distribution block, how did you splice 8 wires from 1?

  • D34DC3N73R Thanks for your reply ? I used the wire splitters you buy @ home depot or lowes. I spliced a micro usb and I use a male and female connetor from the psu to power the pi. I initially did the setup as before but I changed to connectors on the ends vurs solder but end up having the same issue on less leds. Nothing changes in the visualizer but when I did the connection with wires when the lights would flicker and go out there would always be one bright led and I'd start to see smoke ???‍♂️. The psu is right behind my tv I'll take pics and post I'm using gpio18

  • You have 60 amps going through a barrel connector? Can you give me a link to your PSU? I had a barrel connector die on a different setup with only 15 amps. I'd definitely suspect that as the culprit. Does your setup work at all at the moment? If so, next time it's flickering and goes out, check the temp on that barrel connector. If your setup doesn't work right now, replace the barrel connector and see if that helps.

  • So if I have a separate power supply powering my Pi 4 then I have to connect a wire from the ground of the PSU to a GPIO pin of the Pi? I plan on having a regular 5V/3A USB charger for the Pi and a 5V/30A PSU for the LEDs since I’ll have about 330 LEDs or so.

  • Kindly note

    1) 110V/220V must be selected by switch before using to avoid damaging. Please change the switch to 110V for USA.

    2) The power supply fan does make a noise and the speed of the fan is load based. So the higher the load, the faster the fan runs, the louder the noise.



    Statement:

    Some customers complain that output power of 5V power supply is insufficient. After a series of tests, we find the reason is wrong test method, not quality issue.

    Because of low voltage and large current, 5V power supply requires the test wire to be thick and short enough, so as to reduce the power loss as much as possible.

    Compared with the 12V and 24V power supply, if the same current is to be output, 5V power supply needs a thicker output wire.

    For example, if the 12V 20A power supply is tested by 11 AWG test wire,no current and voltage drop, no power loss.

    But when we test 5V 20A power supply, in order to get sufficient 5V voltage and 20A current, 6 AWG test wire is required.

    If we use 11 AWG test wire or 6 AWG test wire is too long, the current and voltage will drop much. This is the characteristic of the current transmission of 5V power supply.

    The lower the output voltage is, the wider the transmission channel should be. If you need test report, please feel free to contact us.



    So? Are you using this what they recommend?

  • I think you have flickering because of that slide connectors on the PINs.



    SOLDER the wires to the pins would be my strongest advice, especially the data and grounds.



    Goodluck.

  • No I'm using 18awg to the leds which they aren't that long. So basically I should use 6awg wire to the LEDs and and find a power plug that has 6awg ?

  • No I'm using 18awg to the leds which they aren't that long. So basically I should use 6awg wire to the LEDs and and find a power plug that has 6awg ?

    follow the advice of the manufacturer, they know best. Its in the text you can read it yourself.

    yes i would go for step up to 6 awg, and SOLDER everything especially with high currents and low voltages.


    did you ever did measurements on your setup like voltage and current, if not start with that. >> multimeter

    i gave you my thoughts already on the solder part, and wires almost cost nothing to buy.

    most of us have it laying around but depends of how much current you are going to draw trough the wire and the distance from PSU to device..

  • 6awg will never work to solder directly to the LEDs. The wire would be almost as thick as the strip itself. That's why I went with a distribution / bus block. You bring 6awg (probably fine with 10 awg if less than 7 feet) from the PSU to the block, then spread out from a central point to all the corners using a more appropriate gauge. The amperage will be split equally between the wires off the block assuming they all have the same resistance. IMO you should ditch the barrel connector entirely. Those are only rated for low amp projects.

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