Four types of hdmi grabber tests (hdmi-cec, rainbow signal)

  • I tried using four different HDMI grabbers.

    All of them were purchased from AliExpress.


    1.video capture with loof
    - hdmi-cec (x) rainbow signal (o)

    2.video capture 3.0 - hdmi-cec (o) rainbow signal (o)

    3.RULLZ video capture 2.0 - hdmi-cec (o) rainbow signal (o)

    4.video capture 2.0 - hdmi-cec (o) rainbow signal (x)


    Grabber four turns off the TV and the led goes off at the same time.



    I am currently using product number four.
    It's working very well.

    https://blog.naver.com/lomazzi/222328138535


    Product No. 4 Link

    It is a black 2.0 product

    https://www.aliexpress.com/ite…042311.0.0.457c4c4ddUuEBq

  • Interesting... I'm looking for a long time to grabbers without rainbow signal. Thanks for this!:thumbup:

    Grüße aus Österreich / Greetings from Austria !

    - Don't wanna miss it anymore !

  • None of the grabbers can work with CEC.

    If it works with CEC, it is the splitter that makes this possible.


    regards pclin

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  • But the first grabber didn't work with hdmi-cec.

    You're right. Maybe I have an older version of Video Capture with Loop, but I soldered a extra connection of Pin13 from HDMI In to HDMI Out and it works. I don't understand why the manufacturers this not consider at pcb layout.

    Grüße aus Österreich / Greetings from Austria !

    - Don't wanna miss it anymore !

  • Thanks Mike72 connecting the 13th pin did the trick and worked like a charm.


    Took a quick picture in case it helps anyone else.

    Be wary that It does require quite a steady hand, flux and ideally a multimeter to make sure you didn't bridge anything else.

  • Thanks Mike72 connecting the 13th pin did the trick and worked like a charm.


    Took a quick picture in case it helps anyone else.

    Be wary that It does require quite a steady hand, flux and ideally a multimeter to make sure you didn't bridge anything else.

    You sir are a super star. Been hunting for this answer of ages. I have a grabber that's had it's day, and a splitter, wanted a grabber with loop, but couldn't find any with cec. Here is my fix. Thank you.

  • Hi all


    I made a cool discovery that relates to this post.

    I bought this grabber on AliExpress : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003604965409.html

    6993-img-6441-jpg


    First thing I did is open the case and check for continuity on pin 13. Unfortunately, pin 13 is not connected so I placed the PCB under the microscope and followed the pin 13 trace. I found out that the trace is complete but they intentionally left the circuit open.

    6991-img-6436-jpg

    Look for the missing resistor (R12) shown by the red arrow.


    Here is a closer view:

    6992-img-6439-jpg

    I don't know why they two this but it's very easily fixed. Simply bridge the gap with a short wire and you're good to go!


    You now have a grabber with CEC, HDMY loop out and HDCP 2.2 !!!


    Hope that helps!


    - Blaise

  • Interesting! I bought these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004343592426.html and added pins to 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 & 19 (easier than one and one) because I tried to solder pin 13 internally and it did not work for me, and I have potato hands so one was enough tempting fate. Would have thought that a minimum of pin 13 and 17 would be needed... could it be that I used to thin wire? I used 36awg.

  • BuzzBazz, I am unclear, how you used these modules in your setup. They let the signal go through while allowing to tap on any pin to test the signal with an oscilloscope.


    On my grabber, pin 17 was already connected, only pin 13 trace was broken. Be warned though, it has the rainbow signal.

  • blaisebarrette , Yeah I can see how I’d confuse myself there😅
    I took it apart, took pictures and removed 3 cables (Pins 14[HEAC-], 18[5V] & 19[HEAC+/Hotplug detect]).
    At least we now know that pin 13 &17 are the ONLY needed in/outputs for the end devices to communicate the CEC signals.

    This is how it's been set up for the time being, now minus the 3 cables that where not needed. But yes, the boards are basically a "exploded view" for running things like a oscilloscope or other things. It really makes it a lot easier than soldering this:

    Mainly for the people that don't have access to this kind of tiny soldering and are "stuck" with this CaptureCard/Video Loop.
    As you can see from the horrendous soldering/cable job It was a pain to get just that one soldered to the right pin to start with, and to add a second cable I would need a great day with lots of positive influence to mentally take on😅😂 But I can confirm that on both of the CC/VL's I own, pins 13 & 17 are not connected (mainly because I've multimetered both ends of the internal try on p13 and it alone does not work😑)

    I’m running my H.NG on a Xbox series X and the wife’s setup is on the media PC (I have not found a 2 port HDMI switch with a remote yet, only 3+ ports get that.) On her setup we get around the CEC problem from the PC by just having her Xbox regain control over the TV and power on and off through that as it is connected directly to the TV. (at least until I find said 2port switch with ir remote.)

    For the rainbow no signal issue I got round it by doing this inside the web interface.

    I did have a little rainbow in the start, but after I changed the "Signal Counter Threshold" to 10 it updated fast enough to not give any rainbow. The thing is that on her "older" setup we're running 2.0.0-alpha.8, and one major loss there is that it does not show a guide where the signal detection area is, so I had no real idea what I was doing, but with mine I'm running the latest build and can see where and how big the box is. Once I had the numbers on mine I just copied them over and suddenly it worked on her setup as well. I set it there because the no signal image has pure black on that side, so as long as the rest of the signal stays static, it seems to update the lights to stay off. I tried to set the screen saver to be just black, but the rainbow would overwrite that every time, until now, with these settings. It isn't the best solution, but it makes all the difference compared to what we did before with having to manually swap between a instance of black and the CC/VL.
    That got tedious, fast.


    Oh god shoot me!🤯🤣😂😑😑😑
    I see what I've done wrong😑😑😑😑
    I have no idea how I've messed this up so damn bad. I even plugged probes into male to male plugs I have laying around to avoid making this mistake, and I still made the mistake!🤯🤯
    Mike72 and ghostface had it fixed, because of correct pin. I have no idea how I messed this up so bad because looking at the pins on my breakout boards I see what I did wrong.


    4 Mal editiert, zuletzt von BuzzBazz () aus folgendem Grund: Merged a post created by BuzzBazz into this post.

  • Yeah, it works great for when one messes up like I did.
    Male to Male adapters flip the wires internally for them to work. I did not see my mistake until I counted the points and compared it to what I soldered inside and what the breakoutboards outside.

  • I have what appeared to be the same grabber from amazon. I opened mine up hoping to solve my cec problems. Sadly

    the board I have is ever so slightly different

  • I have what appeared to be the same grabber from amazon. I opened mine up hoping to solve my cec problems. Sadly

    the board I have is ever so slightly different

    It loks like you have clone board with blue USB 2.0. Looking on HDMI pins it looks that pin 13 is not connected.


    I happen to have board with USB 3.0 version and blank R12 to enable CEC passthrough but card is still recognised as USB 2.0.


    Nothing on case but HDCP2.2 works.

    HDR is not working.

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