TCL 65" 6-Series, Hyperbian + RPi3, Custom Frame,

  • This is my second stab at bias lighting. The first time was on the back of my ancient Panasonic 42" plasma (110% would buy a plasma again --- RIP, Plasma Bros!)

    Days of console gaming are behind me (I've returned to PC gaming for now), so I'm going with a decent mid-range QLED setup and the TCL and/or Hisense seem to be legit options. I HAVE NOT PURCHASED THE TV YET (probably this week, but I've been saying that for a couple months 8o ).

    I am going with an 'engineered' solution. I have designed 3D printed brackets to mate with my VESA mount. This will hold the LEDs at 30 degrees, 25mm (American metric lovers, unite!) offset from the edge of the TV and ~25mm from the wall. The LEDs will sit in aluminum channel.

    Brackets and Frame

    1) 3D Brackets: I'm probably final now but want to fully mount before sharing

    2) Configuration Spreadsheet: This will be shared once fully installed. This lets you figure out your cut lengths.

    3) Aluminum Track: Muzata Transparent Diffuser Extrusion U1BT

    4) 3D Filament: HATCHBOX 3D Filament Dimensional Accuracy

    Bracket design interations, finals in red. Brackets have track guide that holds channel in place. Glue not necessary. I will likely glue.

    Frame mounted to wall, crooked because the VESA mount has 'play', will be level when fixed to a TV.

    Example of my spreadsheet. Yellow are variables. Green is cuts. It'll make more sense when I clean it up.

    LEDs and Other Hardware

    1) LEDS: BTF LIGHTING Individually Addressable Non Waterproof Separately <- Some people have issues with these lights. I have found them STELLAR to work with. The CLK signal is king.

    2) RPi: Raspberry Pi3B+ & Hyperbian

    3) Power Supply: Will provide model once wired

    4) Frame Grabber: I have a 1080p but may update to 4K to enable HDR if it bothers me. Will know this week (if I buy the TV finally :P )

    5) Video Streamer: Amazon Firestick <- This is my personal preference and connects directly to the Frame Grabber.

    6) Project Box: I'm likely to design and print my own so I can have bulkheads and streamline plug-n-play. This will be done next week, I have most components and will share once built. This will happen after I make sure everything else works. It's 'dressing' for the end of the project'.

    7) Wiring Diagram: I'll provide a rough (or detailed) wiring diagram once all other bullet points are done.

    I will update this post with videos and further images as I assemble this week.

  • Update: Finally got the TV. They're running out of that model in anticipation for 2021's models, I assume. So it took a bit more of a hunt across town to find one locally than expected. Why didn't I wait for 2021's models? Because I've put this off long enough :P and there's no release date for their next full line, speculation is December-ish. I can't wait that long. :D

    Hopefully I make headway and will update my above main post as I proceed.

  • NIce work. My tv is still running on the original bullet style w2801s i started with 8 years ago. I've built an aluminum C-channel and drilled holes for each bullet (only 100 LEDs). It all sits behind a 2017 55" Samsung QLED. You see it upon entering the room from the side so i had to have something mostly clean. Though I'm getting closer and closer to pulling the trigger and rebuilding it with some new APA107s or APA102s.

  • Though I'm getting closer and closer to pulling the trigger and rebuilding it with some new APA107s or APA102s.

    nicely build :)

    then you can't use this hole drilled frame, APA's dont come in this kind of daisychainleds only on ledstrips.

    you can tape them over the holes, or you have a look at my build.


  • Yeah, thats one of the reasons im reluctant. When I change them out i'd likely use the aluminum track similar to you. I may experiment with beveling the edges of the channel so that they meet continuously with a 45 degree angle towards the wall. If i'm going to change them, might as well get fancy haha. Love your 3D printed frame structure, mine is just an aluminum bar sitting on top the tv mount, but it never moves so it works.

  • Love your 3D printed frame structure

    its not, just electrical piping sizes 5/8" and 3/4" and homedepo brackets of metal, good strong tape which leaves no residue to the tv.

    thats it :)

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