Suggestions for old Lightberry hardware

Beitrag

RE: Setup wiring/schematics for basic building of Hyperion / Raspi/ Hyperbian with HDMI/av capture and backup android grabber

the illustration is fine, if you can succesfully duplicate the live feed then this setup should work.

I would say when using a zeroW (WIFI) you can't steer to much leds, this Raspi is single core and not that powerfull.
for tasks as W-Led its perfect but to steer the leds directly from GPIO and having to do rendering as well for live feed into Hyperion.NG can be too much.

so what people do is decreasing the live feed and having a real low resolution to work with.
If you want more power/quality…

Ambientheater77

9. Oktober 2021

WS2801 wiring is the same as schematics

Zitat von eccentricbiped

Soooo... are you saying that I need to ditch the LED converter interface box altogether

yes you don't need that box, the ledstrip can run with build in ledcontroller on Hyperion.NG software

just use WS2801 and directly connect the DI and CI on PIN 19 and 23.

thus GPIO10 and GPIO11

don't forget to common ground the GND together

the lightberrybox is already a hardware ledcontroller, you can't use 2 ledcontrollers on the strip.

For anyone else who landed on this thread. I had the same issue and fixed it with the above suggestion. Really nice to have all the new hyperion features so i recommend it.

Explicitly...

1. cut the two signal lines coming out of the light berry controller. You can identify them by opening up the controller box. The circuit board has the wires labeled.
2. cut the rj45 signal wires. Leave the power/ground connected. For me, this was green and black, but you can see it by looking at the wire trace on the board.
3. connect the signal wires to each other- bypassing the controller. I didn't bother trying to figure out which was the data vs clock. 50/50 shot and doesn't do any harm if you get it wrong.

Things I like about this solution.

• I get to maintain my separate power supply for the LEDs via the lightberry controller. My thought is that this increases the longevity of the pi by not running additional power through the pi. It also has a separate protection circuit. It's also nice because I use a smart plug to turn the LED's on/off without powering off the pi. I know you can do it in software too.
• By keeping the same wire ground connections through the controller, I maintain a common ground which should prevent a ground mismatch. In theory, a ground mismatch would cause the LEDs to flash/flicker.