NEWBIE HERE, please help


  • In that cause, I'll keep it like it is.
    You and the other developers have done a real great job, penfold42! Thanks for that.
    I'll put my own instructions in a post for other newbies to read.


    Any suggestions regarding the position of the leds?


    Wim

  • Just a small thought on the level shifter.


    Most chips don't like have active inputs without power applied.
    If you are likely to be powering off the led strip but want the Pi on, you may want to consider powering the level shifter with 5v
    from the Pi instead of 5v from the leds.


    My leds are blu tacked to the back of the tv but I've used 45 degree wedges to angle them out a bit.
    Pointing straight back at the wall is kinda wasting some of their beam spread.
    Pointing them sideways looked a bit crap cos you could see too much of the leds directly

  • Just a small thought on the level shifter.


    Most chips don't like have active inputs without power applied.
    If you are likely to be powering off the led strip but want the Pi on, you may want to consider powering the level shifter with 5v
    from the Pi instead of 5v from the leds.


    Thanks! Yes, I was thinking leaving the pi on and the leds powered off when not using them so that's good idea.
    I just got back from town to buy a capacitor 1000uF. I'll put that between pin2 of the pi (5v) and gnd of the pi.


    I'm thinking of making a frame I can attach to the vesa mount at the back of the tv.
    Would you advise a frosted cap over the leds or transparant or nothing at all?


    Wim

  • This is what I built, albeit for apa102s but it might help...


    https://hyperion-project.org/t…th-apa102s.822/#post-6165


    Lives in a tictac 100 box behind the telly.


    Referring to:


    I don't know what page you're referring to so I'll make some guesses...


    I'd recommend a capacitor between power and ground to keep the chip happy.


    A series resistor on the output is really only helpful if you have a very long wire between the Pi and the 1st led but fitting it probably won't hurt


    Did you mean the chip of the leds perhaps?

  • Exactly that, a lot of people have killed the first led in the strip I believe.


    Mine worked perfectly without the level shifter or anything else but as they cost so little I added them all as a just in case precaution (as well as for the fun of working out and building the little board :) )

  • The level shifter doesn't need a 1000uF capacitor - the led strip can benefit from a largish capacitor as a small power top ip reservoir. Think of it like a small rechargeable battery.


    The chip should have a 0.01uF to 0.1uF decoupling capacitor.
    http://www.ti.com/lit/an/scla007a/scla007a.pdf


    Okay, so a 1000uF capacitor between +5V and GND of the led and a 0,01-0,1uF between +5V and GND of the SN74hct125?


    What do you guys advise for the leds?
    I understand In an angle of 45 degrees, but I don't know if I like seeing the leds from the side.
    And with a opaque cover to protect against dust etc or just open (better light)?


    Wim

  • I've been working on a frame and testing the kodi-addon. Regarding the last, I have a question.


    I've got it setup like this:

    but menu and pictures give no lights. Live tv and video's do. Running kodi on nvidia shield tv, all hardware disabled.


    Wim
    EDIT: kodi 17

  • I suggest starting a new thread for this one with given its a very specific issue.


    You're more likely to get the attention of someone who has a shield !


    Ok, will do that later.


    First |I've got another question. I cut the led strip into 4 and connected them with this kind of connector:


    https://ledstrip-specialist.nl…k-hoekconnector-90-graden


    Now, when using some colors (red, green, blue) are okay on all 4 parts, but the other colors are only correct on the first 2 parts, a bit off on the third and even more different on the fourth (often red).
    In retrospect, in the temporarily setup I had before, I couldn't really see the fourth part very good. So I'm not sure if this started after diving the ledstrip or before.
    I have about 60 leds horizontal (no bottom gap) and 30 vertical. WS2813.
    This power supply: https://www.kiwi-electronics.n…240-AC-EU-kabel?search=5v


    What the best way to check if it's a connector problem or a total voltage problem? Come to think of it, my brother-in-law has a voltage measuring device.
    Is there a way to amplify the current perhaps? I already attached the 1000uF capacitor between 5V and GND of the leds.


    Wim

  • So, 180 leds in total ?
    Each led needs 60mA at full brightness.
    180 x 0.060 = 10.8 Amps.


    Are you finding that the further from the power input the redder it gets ?
    This is a sure sign of voltage drop along the strip.


    Applying power and ground at both ends usually helps a lot.


    The capacitor is only for short term power smoothing - nothing beats an adequate power supply with good wiring for power distribution

  • Well, 1 and 4 are now perfect and the second from each sides: 2 is perfect, 3 isn't great.
    You were (of course) wright about the red color meaning low voltage, I'm going to solder the connection early next week.

  • You might need to add a 3rd power feed to the diagonal opposite corner.


    Apart from supper conductors, everything has resistance.
    Your wires will have much lower resistance than the led strips.


    I have a display of 6 x 150 leds in parallel strips. I needed to power each strip from each end. It's about 5m from the power supply and even with thick power wires I needed to sets for the long run

  • Guys,


    I need your help, again. Sorry.


    While I'm completely done calibrating, working on the frame, kodi add-on etc, my first priority is to exchange the pi2 for a pi zero.


    I have no clue why, but I can't seem to get it working for days now.


    This is what I've done:
    -formatted the sd-card, put the same image of raspbian on the card
    -added to the bottom of the config.txt file dtoverlay=dwc2
    -empty file ssh
    -inserted in comdline.txt after rootwait: Insert modules-load=dwc2,g_ether
    -connect the pi via usb to pc, connect with putty via raspberrypi.local
    -added into wpa_supplicant.conf:
    network={
    ssid="*************"
    psk="**************"
    key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
    }
    -added into config.txt:
    # activate ambilight module
    dtparam=spi=on
    -curl -k -L --output install_hyperion.sh --get https://raw.githubusercontent.…r/bin/install_hyperion.sh
    -chmod +x install_hyperion.sh
    -sudo sh ./install_hyperion.sh
    -and finally copied the hyperoin.config.json to /etc/hyperion
    -restarted hyperion
    -connected exactly like pi2.


    And then leds are not correct.


    Any ideas?


    Wim

  • I tried ls /dev and spi loopback test (https://www.raspberrypi.org/do…raspberrypi/spi/README.md)
    both are okay.


    There seems to be a little response with pi zero, but very short (some flickering of the leds) when using hyperion-lights app.


    I bought this one: https://www.kiwi-electronics.n…rsie-1-3?search=pi%20zero
    with an unsoldered 40-pin GPIO header. I soldered pins 6, 19 and 21. Do I need to solder all the pins for hyperion to function (perhaps because of gnd)?


    Wim


  • I soldered direct to the pi, didn't see any point in adding headers.


    The link seems to be to the non WiFi version? How are you going to communicate with it?

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