Beiträge von davieboy

    well going with what you posted above the version 9 didn't install anyway because you didn't run it as root (Could not open lock file /var/lib/dpkg/lock-frontend - open (13: Permission denied)) if you had ran that as root or with sudo it would have installed alpha 9

    Code
    rm Hyperion-2.0.0-alpha.9-Linux-armv7l.deb


    So all you would need to do is remove the alpha 9 .deb file but wont do any harm if left there, providing space isn't an issue

    If only the motherboard had the LED headers.....


    Nah in all honesty I remember a die hard Unix Dev moving to a windows machine with no complaints as Cygwin installed and worked very well, Id imagine it would give you the path to the serial line the cleanest way.


    Not clued up on putty either but could you not start the win machine and use putty to make a connection to the serial line then access the putty connection somehow in a path, might be worth a google on that too as it would be the quickest and probably best way for you without having to go all out.

    I could be wrong on this but I'm 99% sure this is not possible out the box on windows, I was under the impression you'd want to install a Linux subsystem like Cygwin but i could be wrong, I ditched windows as 7 came out an never looked back but im sure it was Cygwin back then if you wanted to do Linux stuff on your windows machine.


    Had a quick google and it looks like a bit of a headache TBH, Id opt for installing a nice distro on another computer than tackle that but that may not suit your desired end result.
    https://www.hanselman.com/blog…dows-terminal-and-minicom


    Hopefully someone with a similar setup to you can help you out. :thumbup:

    Tough 1 esp if the dongle doesn't power off they Hyperion cant work what's what, have you tried enabling the CEC detection on the off chance when you hit the power button it broadcasts that, If Signal Detection is enabled try disabling that and only having CEC Detection enabled, you might need to test it while looking at the webui to see if its actually working.


    Hyperion -> Configuration -> Capturing Hardware

    I was talking about talking about lack of CEC info, some state: Only output1 supports CEC function, some state: Not support CEC but most don't mention it, you'd of thought with all the other features they all support and list, that CEC would be on every one.


    Aww man I thought £10 on delivery it be like 2 days max :roflmao:

    Its a pity there was no way to directly output the signal straight from the splitter directly into the pi camera port, might be a possibility on the pi7 or 8 :LOL:


    Splitter looks like the very chappie plus 1 year warranty, sold :LOL:


    Yeah the original equipment was really just testing the waters to see if it would work and actually get used :thumbup:

    Hi Folks, Going through a bit of a rough patch and could use another set of opinions, These are what i have
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB…0f409b:g:p~sAAOSwJYhfWJvg


    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-…bf5f34:g:vesAAOSwyR5fWISM


    Capture card was working fine but with previous probs with Ir Receiver on GPIO the V4L wasn't really used much, so im now wondering if a USB3 would benefit the build due to the faster bandwith handling as i noticed a bit of lag in the LEDS last night when using usb capture - This lag is not there on Platform Capture.


    Splitter - man what a POS that is, spent hours last night diagnosing why it wouldn't power up, turns out it powers up as expected when there is nothing plugged in or only 1 device plugged in regardless of cable position or type, sometimes powers up but mainly doesn't, as you can imagine when it refused to power up and the other half wants to watch the tv it becomes a major problem, so im guessing you get what you pay for. do these look like a better replacements for them


    https://www.ebuyer.com/662866-…=662866&_sgm_action=click


    Upgraded Version Capture Streaming,Live Broadcasts


    I had a quick look into a semi decent USB recorder with a pass-though to bypass the splitter completely but I couldn't find a semi decent looking on that wouldn't be a Chinese clone that could be a hit or miss if it actually works as expected plus the branded ones are a small fortune.


    any thoughts?

    RS-232 Serial Connection - Yes we are breaking out the big guns now, had this old serial port on the TV for years and never bothered with it until I noticed the section in the TV manual a few weeks ago when checking another setting, then the penny dropped that it may be useful so i took to ebay and ordered a USB To RS232 TTL UART PL2303HX Converter USB to COM Module Serial Cable Adapter as 15 pin vga like plugs are not cool and it was totally worth the £3


    So I hooked the Earth, TX and RX pins up to the pi and enabled UART in the config.txt

    Code
    enable_uart=1


    After a quick reboot and connection to the TV successful, no more CEC commands that returned false, unknown or segmentation faults when trying to communicate with the TV, Now I have direct access to check the status of the tv then control it as required, this thing can pretty much change any setting on the TV without having to look at the tv menu or touch the original remote, providing your tv manual lists the codes as some don't so you may need to google it.


    But if you have it, its definitely worth a look if you want automation without going down the IOT route.


    :thumbup:

    Wow seems so long ago I wrote that and how simple that setup was, since then kodi call backs has been disabled and a ton of scripts are now in place and the setup is pretty much fully automated via the tv remote control, I might post a few as I fine tune them but as of now I thought i would shed some light on a subject that was driving me insane and with very few options of solving it without spending at least £20.


    GPIO IR Receiver - Yup its amazing that such a small device connected to 1 pin can have such an adverse effect on a running system - Mainly the USB capture device, as you may or may not know, all the Pi's running Libreelec and possibly a distro may have a problem with GPIO IR receivers only when there is a USB device connected or in use and some earlier models suffered it from load on the Ethernet port due to the board designs they are all intertwined (simple terms).


    Long story short everything was working fine on my system until I switched over to USB capture for grabbing the other HDMI source, as soon as that happened the IR remote would lag and not respond to keypresses, very frustrating when the remote also controls the lights and the only way around it was to go to Hyperion on the browser and manually enable or disable the Capture device when needed but where's the fun in that.


    Solution - Buy a Flirc at £20 or other USB IR receiver that may have kernel support or it may not, or Build your own, I the spirit of DIY I opted for the latter and invested in a Leonardo Pro Micro, a small Arduino clone that uses a ATmega32u4 chip so basically it is detected as a usb keyboard - Happy days, soldered a few pins and connected the previous IR receiver that was causing problems and boom, lag free remote control operation, no more double jumps or locking up.


    Credit to the guy that wrote this guide http://www.andremiller.net/con…-remote-receiver-for-kodi I chose not to rig up the LED as the board lights up anyway and i wanted it as discreet as possible, I used the testmode an got my remote codes and assigned all of them a keyboard key - I cannot recommend this enough get every single button code once. Then you can remap them on the fly as required and never need to upload any code to the board - unless you change the remote :D


    Reality now is I have 1 universal remote with 19 buttons that fully controls the TV and Raspberry Pi and Hyperion, One of my power buttons is now mapped to cycle the LEDDEVICE on and off depending on its current state.


    When Tv source button is pressed it cycles between the TV HDMI sources automatically enabling the V4L or GRABBER depending on the source that its going to, which in turn controls a relay that powers up the HDMI splitter as required, pretty sweet.


    Heres a vid of it in action - Note: The remote and the Pi are controlling the TV sources - See next post


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    When Tv power button is pressed similar script disables all devices and kills the HDMI splitter power supply and vice versa when powered on.


    Hope that can help someone facing similar problems at one point as it gave me serious problems when the USB capture device was enabled.

    quite a tall ask imo to run all 3 on the Pi2 esp if routing all your internet traffic through it too.


    You could try flashing libre-elec onto another sd card and install Hyperion via the guide https://hyperion-project.org/t…ziell-unofficially.10463/


    You may not need kodi but it might be a easy method of getting the latest Hyperion installed and running effortlessly.


    Then install Pihole via the libreelec Repository -> additional repository, its not the latest version but is optimised for the o/s, or run the latest version in a container


    Then install PiVpn as another container as docker would already be installed from the pihole install


    It might work and it might not but worth a shot if you have no other options and for the sake of grabbing another sd card and trying it you have nothing to loose or leave the pi2 to handle all your internet and get another device for Hyperion

    go for a 5v relay module, depending on the power supply for the led's you may need 2 channel relay to split the load if your LED's are pulling more than 10A which shouldn't be a problem tho as you will probably have at least 2 power lines going to the led strip anyway - better safe than sorry.


    Simple script to set gpio pin to pull high @ reboot then when pi powers down relay looses signal and switches the lights off

    IMO the cost of getting a decent camera plus all the bits and bobs required in getting it setup and positioned then the numerous hours trying to get a setup like this to work,
    Id personally just get a Roku stick or something similar to run the apps you use and then use that with a grabber instead of the inbuilt tv apps, assuming that's the predicament you are in based on your previous posts