Posts by Biggles

    Startup time being quicker without Quickstart enabled makes no sense as it will need to reload everything it runs by default, including PicCap and Hyperion/HyperHDR in our case. My experience is that it's much slower when disabled, emphasised by the fact my Harmony needs a delay inserted before changing inputs on starting from off as it needs to wait for the TV to be responsive.

    I don't often use the internal media apps so maybe that's what makes the difference.

    m0uh This fixed it for me so PicCap starts reliably every time even with Quickstart+ on, credit to Bahoue on Discord...


    Ok we can create the symbolic link of the autostart in ssh send:

    chmod +x /media/developer/apps/usr/palm/services/org.webosbrew.piccap.service/piccapautostart

    ln -s /media/developer/apps/usr/palm/services/org.webosbrew.piccap.service/piccapautostart /var/lib/webosbrew/init.d/piccapautostart
    reboot your TV

    pclin , tried you guide to installing Hyperion last night, really simple and works perfectly, thanks.

    One thing that would be worth adding to your guide is that you have to turn SSH on in the Homebrew app.

    I see you don't need root to use web os dev manager and install Hyperion and PicCap, just have developer mode installed, but am I right in thinking you still need root for PicCap to actually work?

    Arstidir Given your investment in gaming you want a LG C1 full stop as it is THE best gaming TV currently, fairy lights shouldn't be your top priority :)

    firmware isn't about onboard apps, it's the OS itself but, like I said, it works fine with the most up to date version and I don't think there are any big issues that still need to be fixed, LG aren't like certain other TV manufacturers who make big promises but never do anything.

    You can connect directly a Pi, that's how mine is currently, but if you run Hyperion elsewhere it's easier to set up an ESP than it is to set up a Pi to do it and given you can get several for a tenner from Amazon etc the saving doesn't seem worth the hassle. If you don't put Hyperion on the TV it would run fine on your gaming PC and control WLED on the ESP.

    If Hyperion doesn't get a signal it will default to running a built in effect but you can set it to not show anything. It will then just sit there waiting for a signal, same if using WLED with an ESP. To power it right down you could use a remote controlled plug and if into Home Assistant or the like you could automate the whole process.

    Arstidir Just set this up on my C1 after years of messing around with hardware grabbers that never produced a totally satisfactory solution.

    Rooting and installing PicCap couldn't be easier if it tried and you can be safe in the knowledge that anything you do is easily reversible. No coding, no SSHing in, nothing more than opening an app from the LG Home menu and once you have it working you never need to return to it. Only issue I found was finding the right resolution to use but an earlier post here had the right one to use and after that it literally just works.

    I'm currently running Hyperion on a PiZero W directly connected to the APA102 strip from my past efforts, I needed to change nothing in the settings as, again, it just works. My next step is to replace the Pi Zero with a Sonoff Basic running WLED, so I can easily power the LEDs power supply on and off and cut out the reliance on SD cards etc, and then temporarily run Hyperion on my server until I'm Happy with running it on my C1. Installing Hyperion itself on the TV does involve a bit of mucking about currently but I'm sure it will be made much simpler soon given what they did with PicCap so don't let that put you off.

    These developments have made things so easy it's crazy all the hassle people used to go through with mountains of cables and boxes velcroed to the back of their TVs to end up with a much less than perfect system.

    The only provisos in this are...

    1. LG could spoil the fun with a firmware upgrade BUT the devs have cracked every change so far, mine is running the latest firmware, and worst come just stick with the current version.

    2. It works fine with live broadcast TV but doesn't work with the internal video apps, ie Netflix etc. However, it works perfectly if you use an external device for streaming, ie FireTV Stick, Shield, ATV etc etc.

    As a follow up to my earlier query, I was using the settings recommended by pclin in an earlier post but suffered from the same issues as Snipes in that menus and onscreen graphics would show fine but no video of any sort would display. I tried using the resolution recommended to Snipes , namely 320x180, and it now works perfectly with broadcast TV from the internal tuner and any source connected via HDMI whether it is DRM protected or not.

    There is the tiniest bit of lag when the TV changes frame rate but it catches up in a few seconds.

    If only video from the internal apps worked it would be perfect.

    This is on a new 77C1 OLED with firmware up to date.


    Thanks for the tip with Discord.

    Have now changed the resolution from 360x180 to 320x180.

    That's it.

    I really don't understand why, but whatever.

    It was a bit, but I'll play with the resolution and see if it helps.


    I'm getting the exact same issues as you on my C1, are you saying just changing the resolution fixed the problem?

    I'm viewing your post in English via Google Translate so not 100% on what I'm seeing is what you meant.


    Ich habe auf meinem C1 genau die gleichen Probleme wie Sie. Wollen Sie damit sagen, dass das Problem nur durch das Ändern der Auflösung behoben wurde?

    Ich sehe mir Ihren Beitrag auf Englisch über Google Translate an, also ist das, was ich sehe, nicht zu 100 % das, was Sie meinten.

    So if I set HDMI Video Output to Monitor 1 instead of "Auto (Dual)" Monitor 2 just doesn't output anything: Hyperion gets a black screen as input (even on non HDR content). Setting it to "Auto (Dual)" works again, but no HDR on both outputs. So I am not sure how this works for you.

    Strange, perhaps they've changed the way it works on the 700s but it's still worded the same way in the 500 manuals.

    What do you get for the below under 'Information' when set to Monitor 1? On mine 1 and 2 say the same thing and when set to Auto, Monitor 2 changes to the grabbers info.

    I have the same challenge, using monitor out of my Denon X3700H connected to the cheap WisFox Videoaufnahmekarte Videograbber Aufnehmen Übertragungen while keeping HDR capabilities on the main screen. I understand this is probably not possible, but I'm curious what exactly you mean by "forcing it to use the handshake from one output under HDMI Video Output" @Biggles, because I can't find any settings on the Denon to do so.

    As per above post, set HDMI Video Output to Montior 1, see page below for details, which your TV should be connected to and connect the grabber to Monitor 2. The source will only negotiate with the TV so keeps the HDR and then pushes the same signal out of Monitor 2 ignoring what it would report as it's capabilities.

    You totally misunderstood, I didn't say anything about fixing the output to the TV, in fact the complete opposite, the TV will accept any output it is capable of like it should and you want, Monitor 2 just gets the same regardless of it's capabilities. So if the TV can accept HDR, both outputs will get HDR.

    I tested similar setup on newest Denon x2700h (HDR10+ and Dolby Vision theoretically possible) and I failed with simply HDR output on both devices. The devices received the split & processed signal but the quality was affected. I suspect the grabber is the problem as it probably reports EDID that causes amplifier to choose wrong (not optimal) format that fits both.

    Have you tried forcing it to use the handshake from one output under HDMI Video Output?

    I've got a Denon x3500h so should work similarly to the OPs, this allows you to select one of the monitor ports to get the handshake info from and force it onto the other. I know this works with 1080p at least as that's how I found out the capture card recommended by @pclin won't accept a 1080p 24Hz signal. If I set it to auto you get the scenario you describe where the signal is changed to 60Hz which the grabber does support. Ironically it claims it accepts 2160 24Hz!

    What I need is a grabber that can accept 1080p 24Hz if anyone knows one that is a sensible price? No need for 4k input currently if that helps.

    I soldered direct to the pi, didn't see any point in adding headers.

    The link seems to be to the non WiFi version? How are you going to communicate with it?

    Don't know about the reliability angle but I control the power for mine via Home Assistant. It senses when the TV is turned on and, if it's after sunset, it turns on the power supply. The dedicated pi is powered from the same supply so automatically boots and everything comes to life. When it senses the TV is turned off, Home Assistant sends a shutdown command to the pi and a minute later turns the power supply off.

    Exactly that, a lot of people have killed the first led in the strip I believe.

    Mine worked perfectly without the level shifter or anything else but as they cost so little I added them all as a just in case precaution (as well as for the fun of working out and building the little board :) )