Posts by Biggles

    So if I set HDMI Video Output to Monitor 1 instead of "Auto (Dual)" Monitor 2 just doesn't output anything: Hyperion gets a black screen as input (even on non HDR content). Setting it to "Auto (Dual)" works again, but no HDR on both outputs. So I am not sure how this works for you.

    Strange, perhaps they've changed the way it works on the 700s but it's still worded the same way in the 500 manuals.

    What do you get for the below under 'Information' when set to Monitor 1? On mine 1 and 2 say the same thing and when set to Auto, Monitor 2 changes to the grabbers info.


    I have the same challenge, using monitor out of my Denon X3700H connected to the cheap WisFox Videoaufnahmekarte Videograbber Aufnehmen Übertragungen while keeping HDR capabilities on the main screen. I understand this is probably not possible, but I'm curious what exactly you mean by "forcing it to use the handshake from one output under HDMI Video Output" @Biggles, because I can't find any settings on the Denon to do so.

    As per above post, set HDMI Video Output to Montior 1, see page below for details, which your TV should be connected to and connect the grabber to Monitor 2. The source will only negotiate with the TV so keeps the HDR and then pushes the same signal out of Monitor 2 ignoring what it would report as it's capabilities.

    You totally misunderstood, I didn't say anything about fixing the output to the TV, in fact the complete opposite, the TV will accept any output it is capable of like it should and you want, Monitor 2 just gets the same regardless of it's capabilities. So if the TV can accept HDR, both outputs will get HDR.

    I tested similar setup on newest Denon x2700h (HDR10+ and Dolby Vision theoretically possible) and I failed with simply HDR output on both devices. The devices received the split & processed signal but the quality was affected. I suspect the grabber is the problem as it probably reports EDID that causes amplifier to choose wrong (not optimal) format that fits both.

    Have you tried forcing it to use the handshake from one output under HDMI Video Output?

    I've got a Denon x3500h so should work similarly to the OPs, this allows you to select one of the monitor ports to get the handshake info from and force it onto the other. I know this works with 1080p at least as that's how I found out the capture card recommended by @pclin won't accept a 1080p 24Hz signal. If I set it to auto you get the scenario you describe where the signal is changed to 60Hz which the grabber does support. Ironically it claims it accepts 2160 24Hz!

    What I need is a grabber that can accept 1080p 24Hz if anyone knows one that is a sensible price? No need for 4k input currently if that helps.

    I soldered direct to the pi, didn't see any point in adding headers.

    The link seems to be to the non WiFi version? How are you going to communicate with it?

    Don't know about the reliability angle but I control the power for mine via Home Assistant. It senses when the TV is turned on and, if it's after sunset, it turns on the power supply. The dedicated pi is powered from the same supply so automatically boots and everything comes to life. When it senses the TV is turned off, Home Assistant sends a shutdown command to the pi and a minute later turns the power supply off.

    Exactly that, a lot of people have killed the first led in the strip I believe.

    Mine worked perfectly without the level shifter or anything else but as they cost so little I added them all as a just in case precaution (as well as for the fun of working out and building the little board :) )

    I already have an Arduino Uno, should I get the ws2812b and use the Arduino? Or should I buy the more expensive apa102? Is it worth nearly 3x the price of the ws2812b?

    I haven't tried any 2812b but if you buy from the likes of AliExpress you should be able to find apa102s for around £35 for 5m of 60 LEDs/m. Not a lot more in the scheme of things for what is generally considered the best and potential headache free installation, your money though obviously.

    I was in your position 6 months ago, asking myself much the same questions, here's my take...

    1. Code now is really APA102 or 2812b, the only definite advantage of the latter is they can be much cheaper. In theory, the APA102s are simpler to set up and going by the posts on here more problems are had with the 2812b although a lot of those seem to be down to user error and poor wiring. If you buy APA102s direct from China you can get them for a reasonable price, which is what I went for.

    2. Most of the guides recommending 30/m were written when 60/m were still very expensive but as to which is best depends on your set up. If your tv is very close to the wall 60/m will give you smoother colour as they create more overlap, as you move away the light can spread more so the advantage lessens.

    3. The LEDs will only draw as much power as they need so that's not a problem, it when people try to get away with too small a supply that you get problems.

    Probably cheaper and certainly a lot easier to get a pi zero w just to run hyperion and install on the back of the TV and keep your main pi with the receiver, let them talk to each other over the network.

    This is great! I didn't know that. I'm returning the arduino and buying the pi zero wifi instead. Can you give me a link or direct info on how to connect (physical) etc?

    Thanks again!!


    No probs, couple of ways of doing it, this one...

    ... And there's a different way using SPI that the ever helpful penfold42 created but I don't think that's been officially documented, definitely been discussed on the forum though.

    I believe I was incorrect. I think I needed the arduino because of the type of led I chose, the ws2813.

    You don't need an Arduino between the pi and strip for 2812b and it's kin anymore. If you got a pi zero w you could connect it directly to the strip running Hyperion and then you'd have a wireless connection between Kodi on your PC and the pi. This is how mine is set up though I used an apa102 strip instead

    Unless I misunderstood, most of your problems seem to have revolved around getting the pi talking to the Arduino, hence my reply :)

    Your port numbers don't appear to be whole numbers ie 19.444 and 19.445, they should be 19,444 and 19,445, as in nineteen thousand, four hundred... rather than nineteen point four...

    Oh OK :) Though you do the main part of IP addresses before the colon the 'proper' way?

    Yeah Biggles i meant emulated hue, it was late when i posted. But yeah very easy to setup for a noob, good starting point just to control things with alexa. @penfold42 wish i had a geek brother who gave me things lol

    Assumed that was what you meant :) it was aimed at the OP as an easier starting point than HA-Bridge if you were going to do Home Assistant anyway.

    if you just want to turn it on and off and have homeassistant there's a component for hyperion, then activate the hue_bridge and this lets you say, alexa turn off hyperion.

    Yep, works for me and I use emulated_hue as there's virtually nothing to do to set it up. Alexa and Harmony then automatically pick it up so I can shout at it, press a button as well as have it as part of an automation.