Posts by Alpha7

    I could absolutely kiss you right now, this has made my YEAR. I've had these damn LED's sitting on the back of my TV for A FULL YEAR because for the life of me I just couldn't make it work and I just got so damn frustrated and now it just WORKS! Thank you thank you thank you

    Haha, glad I could help. I hear your pain though, I had a few weeks of torture getting my setup working, I was in constant fear I would wake up and the LEDs would have been removed by my wife out of annoying of them existing and not doing anything lol.

    I purchased this same grabber as @Alpha7 and @theovlit but the SSH is throwing the error "what(): V4L2GRABBER ERROR: Only pixel formats UYVY, YUYV, and RGB32 are supported ERROR"

    Did you guys have to change anything in the standard hypercon setup to get this grabber to work? I'm running on V1.03.4, and can't find any mention on the forums of how to change pixel format. Any thoughts? I know the rest of my setup should be valid because I can send a setup without any grabber and send colors from my phone to my lights, but as soon as I add a grabber to the .json file it doesn't run anything.

    Mine was 100% plug and play.

    Under Configuration > Capture Hardware: You should have a USB Capture settings section, You can modify the Device (mine says "USB Video:USB Video") as well as the input, video standard, resolution and some other settings.

    Try playing around there to see if modifying the settings will allow the system to see the grabber. It should also show up under the Remote control section if the systems sees it.

    I mainly just got the Zero because it was cheap and I had no idea how far the project would actually get. Now that I know I like it I might upgrade but in all honestly I've yet to have any issues with colors. I mean I have 100 LED's and have the resolution over 100, so technically that would be enough to still be accurate right?

    I boosted it at one point but reconfigured since then and forgot to overclock it again. After overclocking again it seem a little better, more so now that I can't say I even notice unless I'm standing there trying to notice the difference.

    Here are the settings I ended up on, and its been stable for a couple days now like this:


    I am running heatsink not that I can imagine it really getting too hot without one just running hyperion.

    Device Resolution: 256x144 @60fps, 8 decimation for games, 2 for Movies

    I also realized something, I have my TV in game mode as the purpose of this project was to use with my ps5 and primarily Destiny 2. With these settings, the low capture resolution and 8 decimation allows things to look near perfect while gaming without smoothing. If I turn the TV into HDR or Movie mode (which causes a delay with the TV processing and adjusting the output it lags just enough to where the LEDs appear to respond perfectly with smoothing enabled)

    If I was only doing this for movies/TV I would have been done screwing with things weeks ago. Too bad games look fantastic with the LEDs as well.

    I'm sure the capture device is the largest culprit of lag here. I noticed lag when I hooked it up to my gaming PC as well, i'm not sure if the $200 Elgato devices can be essentially played on with 0 latency but the cheap $20 one I got definitely cannot be, and this is fine for this as its close enough at this point I think to not bother me.

    I took a video, with 127x72 at 3 Decimation Is about as near perfect as I can seem to get it.. but at this point I've got more LEDs behind my TV then pixles the PI is actually reading.

    There has to be some setting or something I am missing right? With a ton of action its not very noticeable but on the hard scene change you can definitely see the LEDs are lagging enough to be noticeable - I just recorded on my phone so the quality isn't perfect.

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    do you know which resolutions your grabber can? can see it with "v42l-ctl --all"

    I wasn't able to get that command to work but my HDMI splitter outputs 4k or 1080, I currently have it downscaling my input to 1080 to the PI. I currently, manually have the resolution on the grabber set to 128x72 resolution and that has improved things a little more but still more of a delay than I would like. Also having the resolution so low it can't see smaller things around the edges.

    Is your pi being powered via USB or via your power supply?

    If you do other effects once it's booted do they respond as well? What happens after you then stop like the build in "led test"?

    So I hate to do this, but I've been messing with software settings for the past day or so and I can't get my LEDs to respond in sync with my TV. No matter what I've tried my LED's will also update about .2 seconds after the TV input changes and especially when scenes change it is noticeable that the LED's are lagging behind.

    One other important thing to mention is my PI never goes above ~50% total CPU utilization even when running the LEDs with some of the lower (better resolution, higher refresh) settings i've tried.

    Running a Pi Zero with ~300 APA102 LEDs via a HDMI to USB Video grabber that is getting split off my PS5 to my TV and to the grabber.

    I made some comments below in the code section about some changes I've made, from what i've googled and read around here and the most important things I think i've found is that smoothing is disabled (currently) or at a very low delay, I've messed with the baudrate, refresh rate of the grabber, resolution and Decimation a ton but the only setting that has any increase was lowering smoothing, disabling it doesn't increase it to a perfect, or near perfect synchronization to the TV.

    If there is anything I missed please let me know or anything more I can try. I removed some of the section below like "LEDs" to make the config smaller on here.

    I bought this one from Amazon for my project - granted its not 4k but when you think about it, I don't really think 4k for the LEDs is needed. You only have so many LEDs anyway and unless you have a newer pi 3 or 4 you'll likely need to further compress the video input so there is not 5 seconds of lag on the screen.

    I have 60 LEDs/m for my project and so far can't notice any issues with LED Colors with a 1080 grabber even though my input is 4k and my TV is 75in. I'm still testing/building but I can say for sure that it doesn't output anything when my PS5 is off. All my LEDs stay off thru this grabber and its plug and play for me, hyperion saw it without my configuring anything additional.


    Okay... So for anyone that might experience the same issue, if its possible to get things as screwed up as what I did :crying:

    First issue, when I shorted my power supply I apparently blew a resistor or level shifter that is built into the APA102 LEDs, they were initially covered by the wiring jacket that came with the LEDs and are only present at the very beginning of the strand. This was preventing any data (from what I can tell) from passing to the DI and/or CI pins from the PI. I spliced out the first LED behind my TV with the beginning on another APA102 strand that I had and after doing so I got one LED to light up.

    Second issue, so now I have my first LED lit, but my other 300 or so doing nothing. After inspecting my LEDs I noticed that my 8th or so LED in the strand was lit very very faintly blue. I figured this LED (or potentially the one before or after it) might be as far as the short got blowing out the LED controllers. I also spliced in another 10 LEDs to be safe and after doing that my entire strand finally lit up. I was never able to find a way to test the controller each individually and didn't want to splice one by one which is why I just did the 10 all at once.

    Jeroen was likely right on when he mentioned a level shifter about my test LEDs lighting up random colors after I got my little 4 LED long test strip working, that of course was cut off and did not have a level shifter/resistor (whatever comes with the APA102s) which is what caused the LEDs to be working but to also light up additional bad colors.

    I never tried powering the Pi thru USB power with the LEDs connected with the level shifter/resister on the LED strip working but its definitely cleaner to power the pi and the LEDs with the same power supply. Please excuse my ignorance on the level shifter/resister on the LEDs. The components are so small I can barely them. I also fixed some connections on my pi Zero and I am using that as the Pi1 couldn't handle the USB capture and would cut out and have delays of 10+ seconds on controlling the LEDs.

    you can calculate power , how much leds?

    lets say 200 leds so, 200 x 0,048A = 9,6A

    the clicking of your PSU is protection against shortcutting probably, your grabber can also be responsible for a strange voltage thus its connected to electronics.
    also test without the grabber to rule out wrong connections

    When my PSU clicked I'm pretty sure I had a short, none of the LED's I actually have on the TV ever lit up. I have about 300 LEDs but I am planning to run them at 50% brightness to start then check draw - I already have this set in hyperion. That is assuming is actually equal to 50% power as well? .0.24A * 300 = 7.2A

    I did just get the Pi hooked up via the power supply and its working again.. hot dang, thank you for that suggestion.

    Small problem now though if you have any further ideas. The LEDs are all working however I am getting an unwanted blue randomly showing up every few seconds randomly throughout the strand. If I run the Knight Rider test for example that pulses red back and forth some of the LEDs will light up blue for a split second - it could be LEDs that are lit red running the test or other ones that should be off.

    i would always recommend to use the same PSU that what you have is 12A or 60Watts is more then enough to power everything

    so; Raspi and ledstrip and grabber on same PSU ground everything and test again :)

    I had the PSU running the Pi Zero but just wanted a "quick test" lol. I can get those connections soldered here shortly.

    I do currently have the USB Grabber and the screen capture output disabled. I upped the Baudrate but so far the same thing. I'll update again once I get the PI powered off the same PSU.

    I wanted to setup a TV backlight with APA102 LEDs my pi Zero and Hyperion. I ordered the LED's configured the system and as soon as the LED's arrived I hooked them up to my Zero and everything was great.

    I moved the LEDs from the spool to my TV and fired the entire setup again with my grabber and everything configured and I had a short or something somewhere as my power supply start clicking. I took it all apart again, moved the pi and power supply to 4 LED's that I had cut from the original spool (that were not connected during the short) and the LED's just go crazy. They blink random colors and brightness's at varying frequencies.

    I thought okay, maybe I damaged the GPIO pins on the pi Zero so I loaded Hyperion on an old Pi 1 I had lying around and I get the exact same problem with those LED's

    On my Pi 1 which I currently have hooked up I have pin 19 (GPIO 10) running to the DI on my LEDs and pin 23 (GPIO 11) running to to the CI on the LEDs.

    I am powering the pi with the USB adapter but the LED's with my 5v 12A power supply.

    If I power up just the LEDs they do nothing, as soon as Hyperion or the GPIO pins starts initializing the LEDs start going berserk. While I did have this all working I have re-installed Hyperion a couple of times to try to rule out software issues.

    I currently have the controller type set to apa102, with the default SPI path of dev/spidev0.0 and the baud rate of 100000 and 4 LED's in my top row. I don't think any other settings really should affect the LEDs themselves. Even if I turn off the LEDs in Hyperion it doesn't stop the LEDs from going crazy. Trying different effects doesn't change anything with the LED's.

    I am hoping to get these extra 4 LEDs working before I go back to the installed LED's on my TV. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    My colors on my wiring are all off and I have a connector that uses different wires with different colors. I used paint to take the CI and DI cables blue and green to make things easier.