Beiträge von D34DC3N73R

    Is your pi3B+ powered by the same PSU? If not, you need to use a common ground. You'd need to connect a ground from the PSU, to one of the ground pins on the pi. The next thing I'd check is the signal. When the flickering happens, do you see any change in the LED Visualization preview in the Hyperion UI? And finally, how far away is your PSU from your LEDs? What gauge of wire are you running? Is it the same coming from the PSU and the wires breaking out to the corners? If you didn't use a distribution block, how did you splice 8 wires from 1?

    Absolutely, but to offer a counter-argument, quality has become less important vs eliminating manufacturing costs. If they can cut some corners and the product still "works" but is cheaper to produce, that's almost certainly the direction they'll take. And, how much quality will remain based solely on reputation? Thinking I don't need to test anything, I've got a meanwell PSU! There is a lot of variance in the manufacturing process, and not all PSU's (even the same brand and model) are created equally.


    To summarize, yes, you'll probably be fine without using caps and a resistor if you're very careful during installation, and are using quality parts/LEDs. But on the flip side, they're so easy to integrate that if they save me having to chop off an LED, or make the LEDs brighter in the center of my strip for that split second, then IMO they're worth it.

    Both are in adafruits best practices for neopixels/WS2812b
    https://learn.adafruit.com/ada…-uberguide/best-practices


    They go on to bold a section stressing the importance.

    - Any project with a lot pixels or a large power source should definitely include the power capacitor and data line resistor.


    and even give a big red bold warning on the "Powering Neopixels" section
    - Adding a 300 to 500 Ohm resistor between your microcontroller's data pin and the data input on the first NeoPixel can help prevent voltage spikes that might otherwise damage your first pixel. Please add one between your micro and NeoPixels!

    as well as give some information about why you should use caps
    - Before connecting a NeoPixel strip to ANY source of power, we very strongly recommend adding a large capacitor (1000 µF, 6.3V or higher) across the + and – terminals. This prevents the initial onrush of current from damaging the pixels.


    Edit: It's really easy to add both so I've never questioned it. They may not make a night and day difference, but they certainly don't hurt anything. And as the old adage goes, better safe than sorry.

    I'm not sure how your sk6812's were connected to dreamscreen, but you'll need to bring a data wire from the end of the first strip to the start of the second strip.

    You want to bring power to each of the LED strips from your PSU (possibly the start and end of each strip), but the data wire should connect from the end of the first strip to the start of the second strip. This essentially gives you a single strip / hardware instance. Unless there is a specific reason you want them to work independently?

    I believe the Pi3B+ is armv7 but run cat /proc/cpuinfo from the command line to be sure. If it is armv7, did you download Hyperion-2.0.0-alpha.9-Linux-armv7l.deb from the github release page?


    so first
    wget https://github.com/hyperion-project/hyperion.ng/releases/download/2.0.0-alpha.9/Hyperion-2.0.0-alpha.9-Linux-armv7l.deb


    after that, you'd run
    sudo apt install ./Hyperion-2.0.0-alpha.9-Linux-armv7l.deb

    Or, download and flash the hyperbian image to your sd card as davieboy suggested.

    I'm not sure what capture card that is. I run from the shield through , 1 HDMI to the TV, and the other to . Capture card USB to RPi 4. Did you have CEC detection enabled in your USB capture settings?

    I use the 2017 nvidia shield pro 500GB and don't have that issue. What type of capture card are you using? Make sure CEC detection and signal detection boxes are checked in the USB capture settings.

    While my setup is "only" 85 inch, I feel like it could handle 100 no problem. I inject power on the front and back of all 4 sides and use 1000uf capacitors at each power connection. I have a 5v 30a PSU with 10 AWG that runs to a distribution block centered on the back of the TV and use 20 AWG to run to all the corners. You'll need to figure out what LEDs you want, then get a rough estimate of how many you'll need, and figure out your max power consumption to get the appropriate amperage PSU. For reference, I'm at 334 WS2812b LEDs and the max current is about 22 amps. https://imgur.com/a/Yp0Y0St

    Yes that's correct assuming you made the scripts 'ambilight_on' and 'ambilight_off'. Just save and restart HA. Any edits to configuration.yaml require a restart to take effect. Also, make sure to disable the previous automations you made with input_boolean.ambilight so there isn't conflicting actions.

    I also run HA in docker. Your configuration.yaml file will probably be in /mnt/user/appdata/home-assistant/configuration.yaml or something similar. It's wherever you store docker application data. You can check by clicking edit on the container and you'll see what path is mounted to /config. You could even edit using container console in which case it would be /config/configuration.yaml, although I don't believe nano is part of the home assistant container. Vi is installed in the container if you're familiar with that editor. It's probably easier to figure out where the application data is stored and just ssh into your unraid box and use nano /mnt/user/appdata/home-assistant/configuration.yaml


    Side note, if you do want a file editor for HA, it's entirely possible, you just have to run a separate container and integrate it manually. I use a VS Code container and it works great

    I haven't really seen an input boolean used that way in an automation. It's possible that it could work. But I've only ever used them in conjunction with template switches. Which you could do if you converted those from automations to scripts. Where ambilight_on would turn on solid white LEDs, and ambilight_off would turn on the V4L effect. You may want to use a different naming scheme if you plan to make one that actually turns off Hyperion. I haven't tested this, but I think it would go something like this:


    edit: tested and should be working now.


    In configuration.yaml

    You can edit automations.yaml and add that code manually, or you can use the gui and use that code as a guide. For instance, I've attached a screencap of what the Hyperion Playback automation would look like from the Home Assistant gui.


    I would suggest just adding your harmony remote to HA, which would allow you to use button presses on the remote as triggers for the automations. But, I'm not familiar with ST to tell you exactly how it would be best to integrate it with ST. If you just want an actionable button, you can set those up as scripts. Scripts are nearly identical to automations, but have no conditions and no triggers, just actions.

    Yes, after the sketch is loaded on the nano, it's D6 to LED data. You also need to change the Hyperion LED controller settings to match that screenshot, replacing the LED count and if need be, the output path.

    Since you have the Hyperion integration in HA already, we can use that. Make sure to click "options" on the integration and change the priority to something above 100, but lower than your grabber priority. For instance, my grabber is priority 110. So I'd change the Home Assistant integration priority to 101-109. I'd use an automation like this for start up, making sure to change the entity_id to match your own.


    To switch back to the grabber, you just need to call the Hyperion "V4L" effect. For instance, if I wanted the grabber to start on playback, I could use my Nvidia Shield play state. If didn't want it automated, or don't have your media player integrated into HA, you could use a button press on your harmony remote as a trigger to accomplish the same thing.


    If I wanted the solid color or effect to resume when playback is paused, stopped, or idle, I could use the following


    And finally, if I wanted Hyperion to turn off when the Shield turns off, I could use the following

    Code
    - alias: LED - Hyperion Off
      mode: single
      trigger:
      - platform: state
        entity_id: media_player.shield
        to: 'off'
      action:
      - service: light.turn_off
        target:
          entity_id: light.first_led_hardware_instance


    That last one may not be necessary depending on your setup, but hopefully, it's enough to get you on the right track.