Beiträge von bamathrasher

    ok, I fixed it. I was able to download Hyperbian to an SD card, insert into the Pi and LAN. Now I'm in.. and I have new problems.. Seems like my HDMI capture card is not letting my video pass thru. The TV doesn't see the HDMI Source. Also I think I have too many LED's for my power source. The last 60 LED's aren't lighting up.. I have 300LED's and my power source Max is 10 Amps.


    10A should be sufficient for 300 LEDs, its more likely you need to inject power along the way. Feeding from just the beginning isnt enough to run that far on 5V

    this PSU broke so fast you mean? its looks like a good option for the PI4


    It was by far the best of the methods I have tried which included the following:


    This is what I started with:
    I also used an iPad 5V/2.4A charging brick
    I also used this to power via pins which is primarily powering my nodemcu & LEDs:
    Now I'm using the Pi4 one I linked above but it still drops the grabber at random intervals, there are no undervoltage warnings in dmesg anymore but it's got to be a voltage regulation issue as it's doing the same thing as before just not as often. I can keep the grabber on for about 20-30 mins at a time now instead of 2 minutes but still not the reliability I'm hoping for.

    no problem, its also possible to use a ATX PSU from a computer. They deliver a solid DC in 3.3 / 5.0 / 12 volts.
    but they are big and huge, thats why most people go for a much smaller ( but still as good) Meanwell PSU :D


    So as expected that Pi PSU I ordered didn't work very long. I made it successfully through one two hour movie before it started shutting off the grabber again so I ordered the Meanwell PSU you suggested. Now Im wondering how I should go about hooking it up with USB-C, should I use my sacrificial USB-C cable w/ only +/- and add additional grounds to the Pi?

    Hello! Im ok about fast color switching of LEDs to new color, but I don't like how quick they turning black, so, I want to get longer fade out effect. Is this possible? I'm still can't find useful explanation of Smoothing options here on forum unfortunately. As I understand it - it will help with high freq flashing from one color to another and back, so, its nothing about fadeout.


    Another issue - single green leds on dark scenes. I've tried to crop 2 pixels on all sides and rise minimal Backlight threshold to 1-2% - it still not helping.


    I know exactly what you mean, it almost seems like Lightning with the flashing during normal movie scenes. I think it's working as intended thats why I'm not sure bias lighting is actually what I want. I actually switched hyperion off last night during a movie with my kid and just set WLED to a solid color and I enjoyed it more.


    The one scene that comes to mind where this effect works is the Dolby Atmos demo video on youtube that has an actual lightning scene and it looks super cool how quickly it flashes/jumps to black. I feel like personally this bias lighting is very situational, maybe its my configuration.

    Back again for more, this time a minor inconvenience. Everytime I leave the Hyperion WebUI and try to go back I get an error message with the Hyperion logo splashed over it. I have to clear cache & cookies and then I can access it again. Simple known issue or should I try to post error code details?


    RPi4 w/ the latest HyperBian


    Decided to add picture of error just in case.


    So for the second time in this thread I’ll call this fixed!!! I felt good about it when I plugged in the new supply and got a stable 5.4V on the 5V pin. As I plugged in my grabber it dropped to around 5.25-5.3V whereas when I tested with the old setups it was very close to 5V or slightly under so I imagine it was undervolting with that kind of voltage drop.


    I don’t expect this $10 power brick to last very long, if it goes I’ll order the suggested one before, but for now it has 100% fixed my issues. Thanks all for the help!!


    Argon ONE Raspberry Pi 4 USB Type C Cable Power Supply | 5 Feet Long | UL Listed 18 Watts 5.25 Volts 3.5 Amps USB C Cable Power Adapter


    thanks for all of your help! I really appreciate it.


    I'm going to try with this RPi dedicated PSU I ordered, if that doesnt work I'll send it back and order the meanwell.


    So I powered the Pi directly by the pins and the undervoltage got worse. So far the best setup has been the 4-port 4.8A brick with only the Pi hooked to it, 2 ground pins tied into my main PSU, and a seperate brick powering the HDMI grabber. It worked for a solid 20 mins with that setup. This is the most frustrating thing. It makes zero sense to me that the under voltage problem would be worse powering from my 5V/15A PSU than the smart phone charger. I guess I'll try when the new charger gets here after that I give up.


    Should I power via the pins then instead? sounds like USB-C is a hassle for this project, or maybe I should order a Pi3 instead and repurpose this Pi4 elsewhere?

    the reason is because of smart USB-C port > it has technology in it which recognizes a fast or slow charger ( it communicates with charger how much it can draw) . If you connect a normal PSU to a USB-C connector it can not deliver the same amps ( power) then when connected to for instance a smart charger from your smartphone.


    normally i would say that powering everything from one PSU is the way to go, but in this case NOT.
    i will bet you if you connect the USB-C port directly to a smartphone smartcharger that is capable of at least 1,5 Amps AND >>>> connect one or two GND pins from the RPI4 to your PSU brick the PI will boot and the undervoltage is gone.


    second way te resolve this is powering the +5 volt pin and GND pin on the PI directly from your PSU powerbrick.
    although it can work option 2 i will try option 1 first.


    So I'm happy to report that tying in to the GND pins seems to certainly have stabilized my issues! I made it through the entire 7 min ambilight video on youtube without it disconnecting once! When I went back to the youtube menus though it crashed, dmesg reports under-voltage detected. I'm hoping that the new brick I have ordered will fully resolve this especially if I tie into the GND pins. I think something may be wonky with this 4-port charger i'm using may be capping each port at 1A no matter what.


    Thank you both so much for the help! I cant wait to enjoy my setup now.

    the reason is because of smart USB-C port > it has technology in it which recognizes a fast or slow charger ( it communicates with charger how much it can draw) . If you connect a normal PSU to a USB-C connector it can not deliver the same amps ( power) then when connected to for instance a smart charger from your smartphone.


    normally i would say that powering everything from one PSU is the way to go, but in this case NOT.
    i will bet you if you connect the USB-C port directly to a smartphone smartcharger that is capable of at least 1,5 Amps AND >>>> connect one or two GND pins from the RPI4 to your PSU brick the PI will boot and the undervoltage is gone.


    second way te resolve this is powering the +5 volt pin and GND pin on the PI directly from your PSU powerbrick.
    although it can work option 2 i will try option 1 first.


    Thank you! I ordered a designated "RPi4 charger" last night from amazon for $10, it claims 5.25V/3.5A, I'll go ahead and throw a jumper on some ground pins and tie into my PSU with my current setup while I await the new charger's arrival. I went back and double checked the original charger I ordered, it's a 4 port 5V/4.8A but I saw in the manual where it said once you connect 2 or more devices each port drops to 1A max but my Pi was the only thing plugged in to the charging brick so according to the manual it should be allowed up to the full 4.8A which you think would be sufficient. I'll try tying the GND pins in to my PSU though.

    Its only getting worse day by day it seems. It used to work for a few minutes, now the Pi is killing the grabber the second I start the instance in Hyperion. Like the LEDs light up for a second or two then go dark immediately. Because its a Pi4 it has the USB-C plug and making a sacrificial cable to tie into my PSU didn't work at all the Pi wouldn't boot. I did tie the HDMI grabber into the PSU though via micro-usb. I also tried a different grabber, same manufacturer I believe just the 1080p version instead of the 4K one I've been using and it behaved the same so I believe the issue may lie with the Pi.


    This is the dmesg output on my Pi: