Is the Fire Cube setup to switch modes for Dolby Vision or HDR content? Is it forcing it from the home screen? Check th eFire Cube settings for Display.
The Diva gives very granular controls for DV and HDR content with an added bonus of a dedicated SDR output port (plus the ability to strip audio from HDMI feeds). I believe a lot of projector users have one to get around certain issues. Theres a huge thread on AVForums for the product. It is expensive but it is a pro bit of kit.
If you could buy a 4k DV/HDR capture stick then you wouldn't need a DIva, but there are none on the market. On normal cheaper hardware signals can be split but as soon as you put something on the HDMI chain that is less than 4K DV/HDR then issue can arise.
The device you have mentioned is a splitter. If you connected a 4k TV on one output and a 1080P TV on the other you would get 1080P on both. If you put identical endpoints on each output then you will get the same. Also that Manhattan device only supports HDMI 1.4. If you are not interested in HDR or DV then you could use a normal splitter but I may be wrong on this - search this forum. Thats just a work-around though and if you have invested in your TV and AVR kit then you don't want to switch features off.
The Diva has 4 inputs, one output to the TV, one HDMI audio out and one 1080P SDR out. I used the Diva LED's but they were not as bright as the setup above so I'm sticking with this for now. So its an HDMI switch with specific tools built in and specific outputs. Just have a look at the manual to see the scope of this thing.
If only it were cheaper...
I don't think those types of capture cards are supported. If you look at the base hardware requirements of a Core i5 then it requires a fair amount of processing to work.
Any content on the HDMI chain that has HDCP protection will cause you to default to the lowest common denominator. Thats what the AVR is doing. You need a splitter that can split a source into two and downscale to SDR one of those outputs without affecting the other 4k output.
HDFury Diva will do LLDV and HDR. It has its own 1080P SDR output
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/pr…_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is reported to handle HDR to SDR
I have a pi 3B+ with Hyperion fed by the HDFury device. 264 LED's and its nice and bright. I have no issues with Dolby Vision or HDR. You can get LED's for the Diva as it has the hardware to control them, but they are expensive and really need two sets to be bright enough. And the Diva itself is really expensive but it works very well.
You can change the shape of the LED frame to fit the camera capture of the screen its pointing to. So if its off centre from a horizontal or vertical perspective you can adjust the frame to surround what the camera can see using the live preview.
Have a read of this: Adjust Camera in Hyperion - Color - Help required
Whatever the camera can see will be used by Hyperion to send the colour data to the LED's so it doesn't matter whether its SDR or HDR or DV.
My LED strip has started to flicker after a re-installation. I found the issue by running a colour sequence and gently pressing the LED's where the flashing was most prominent,
I found one LED that wasn't making good contact until it was pressed, just need to snip that one out and replace by soldering in a new section.
Any DV or HDR source will do this unless it is split correctly. You can't send a DV source to a 4k TV and a 1080P capture stick via a standard HDMI splitter without there being issues like what you are seeing.
- Use a Webcam to capture the screen instead of HDMI
- Or use a suitable HDMI splitter - for DV+HDR its a HDFury Diva or for HDR there is a Xcolor HDMI splitter on Amazon (search this site)
The problem is generated because the chain of HDMI devices needs to be full 4k DV capable on all. Your capture stick is not DV capable so colours get messed up on its output. The Diva will do LLDV source to TV and has a separate 1080P SDR output. But its not cheap. Other people had had success with HDR but you will need to search the forum for that model of splitter.
USB camera instead of HDMI splitter/grabber.
I have a Pi setup with Hyperion and also have the HDFury Diva with their own supplied LED strip. I'm running the Diva with a single LED strip (56 LED's), Denon AVR, Xbox Series X, Sony XH9505 65" wall mounted.
Do you watch a lot of DV or HDR content? If not then you won't need a Diva just maybe a new grabber or config tweak.
- The Diva supports an ambilight solution and the LED kit plugs directly into the unit. Power is provided by a power adapter as part of the kit
- Diva will pass LLDV to the TV and successfully downscale to SDR 1080P on a different output so no issues with LLDV content
- Colour accuracy is good
- Response time is good
- Software control is limited to some basic settings
- Brightness control is basic with 3 gamma settings
- Its expensive for a lighting solution
- One LED strip is not as bright as my Pi ones (56 versus 265) and they are expensive and I cannot find the same LED strips for sale anywhere (you can install two strips in parallel but the cost increases). But its more in line with what is on screen. But I like the brightness of the Pi setup as its more effective
- I have issues with CEC where sometimes the TV does not power on. If I disable CEC on the Diva it disables the DV/HDR capabilities on the Xbox.
- ARC/eARC does not work for me - have to connect an optical cable from TV to AVR for audio from TV sources
- Did I mention its expensive just for ambilight?
If you want the right HDMI solution to give the correct SDR output without breaking LLDV for Hyperion and Pi then the Diva is the only device that can do it consistently - if you don't mind the cost.
If you want a Diva only system and don't mind the cost then you could get a Diva with 1 or 2 LED strips, but its not a perfect solution (at least for me).
If you want to keep costs down and have great flexibility and a community to ask for help or to contribute to then Hyperion all the way.
I am in the process of removing and selling my Diva setup and moving back to my old setup but focusing on using a USB camera. No grabber issues, no splitting issues, no CEC issues, etc.
Hi - for those running a Logitech C270 webcam, could you please confirm:
1. Whether the C270 is capable of 60 FPS
2. Confirm the content in the video demos is either 30 or 60 Hz?
When I tried a C270 I could not get rid of the rolling lines. Colours were good but any tweaking would be catastrophic for the output.
I had this rainbow effect when switching off my setup. This was with the WisFox HDMI USB capture device. I replaced it with this as the WisFox was loose in the port.
When I now switch everything off other than the LED hardware the LED's are dark showing no output.
Hi, Does your 4k source include HDR and/or Dolby Vision content?
Since I have formant picam and pi3 will give a try to this option. Is this working out of the box with hyperbian or do we need to manually lod picam drivers?
When I tested a basic pi cam I had to enable it in the config:
It seems a grabber is (absolutely) necessary. Now which one should I pick up?
What is your source? You can pick up a HDMI to USB 2.0 capture device from a few places. I have this one.
You should be able to get some light from the kit without a source though - for testing the different Hyperion light effects for example.
I also experimented with it, it sure would be much easyer to go the "cameraroute" and evade all kind of HDMI problems that you can have with directly live feed.
So what would be the next upgrade from a Pi that could handle the processing?
I'm also wondering if I could re-purpose an old smartphone as the webcam.
record it and prove us wrong i would say.
Lets see what I can do if I can find a decent camera. I'm still invested int eh HDMI route. I suspect my ATV is the source of some of the pain so may sell that and get a Chromecast ultra.
This is more of an ongoing hobby than build & deploy project. Its all good though
I had decent results with the camera position which was sat on top of my rear-right surround speaker. The distance was about 3.2 metres from a 65" TV. I used the trapezoid settings but also cropped the image in by 120 pixels all around so that the capture window had as much of the screen in as possible. Size decimation was 1 for better resolution of the capture, but low resolution setting (320 x 240 I think).
This seems to work well, I just struggle with highlights being blown out by the camera so the capture is more white than a colour.
So if I could get a webcam that has a capture rate of 50 or 60 Hz to match the screen that would work?
I had similar issues and found that trying to fine tune a webcam for Hyperion was difficult.
Try here to see how to change the camera settings via v4l2 - you will have options to set exposure, brightness, saturation and such. Some items have to be disabled to enable others.
The main issue I had was trying to remove the camera flicker. The lower the exposure compensation the better the colour match, but this increased flicker.