Ambientheater77 D34DC3N73R I appreciate yalls help and knowledge. After future review and all suggestions and reading countless other post I thank I tackled the issue and I can say it's fixed. So after doing different setups and soilering desoldering and you guys telling me to ditch the barrels everything works perfectly. Now running Ws2812B 144 per meter is a lot and you need to run more wire so I ditched them and running 30 leds per meter which puts me at 60 leds per meter. All in all you guys are awesome and thank you for your help. So the issue was how many lights lack of current distribution and the barrels. Thanks again oh and I used a 330R resistor on the data line
Beiträge von Chuckw19
-
-
Alles anzeigen
Kindly note
1) 110V/220V must be selected by switch before using to avoid damaging. Please change the switch to 110V for USA.
2) The power supply fan does make a noise and the speed of the fan is load based. So the higher the load, the faster the fan runs, the louder the noise.
Statement:
Some customers complain that output power of 5V power supply is insufficient. After a series of tests, we find the reason is wrong test method, not quality issue.
Because of low voltage and large current, 5V power supply requires the test wire to be thick and short enough, so as to reduce the power loss as much as possible.
Compared with the 12V and 24V power supply, if the same current is to be output, 5V power supply needs a thicker output wire.
For example, if the 12V 20A power supply is tested by 11 AWG test wire,no current and voltage drop, no power loss.
But when we test 5V 20A power supply, in order to get sufficient 5V voltage and 20A current, 6 AWG test wire is required.
If we use 11 AWG test wire or 6 AWG test wire is too long, the current and voltage will drop much. This is the characteristic of the current transmission of 5V power supply.
The lower the output voltage is, the wider the transmission channel should be. If you need test report, please feel free to contact us.So? Are you using this what they recommend?
No I'm using 18awg to the leds which they aren't that long. So basically I should use 6awg wire to the LEDs and and find a power plug that has 6awg ?
-
This is the power supply that i am running
now I will say there has been times the barrels have been warm but not burning hot ?. So last night after reading thru the forums I grounded to every ground gpio pin on the pie. Now I will say it was working but the flicker was still there ??♂️ Flickering video -
The wires don't get hot I'm using 18awg wire
-
D34DC3N73R Thanks for your reply ? I used the wire splitters you buy @ home depot or lowes. I spliced a micro usb and I use a male and female connetor from the psu to power the pi. I initially did the setup as before but I changed to connectors on the ends vurs solder but end up having the same issue on less leds. Nothing changes in the visualizer but when I did the connection with wires when the lights would flicker and go out there would always be one bright led and I'd start to see smoke ???♂️. The psu is right behind my tv I'll take pics and post I'm using gpio18
-
D34DC3N73R I have a question ❓ I was running 144 per meter strips around my 55inch which put me at 467Leds Total. I was using a 5v 60a power supply with a pi3 B+ and a capture card. I didn't use a distribution block but I did inject power at each end of all four strips but after awhile I would get crazy flicker and color change. Switch out the psu things ran great then boom same thing happen. So I switched to 60 leds per meter which puts me at 226 leds total same set up and crazy flicker am I doing something wrong not sure how to combat this. I checked for voltage drops and none. Psu is set to 5.2v I'm running hyperion alpha9