Posts by Imburr

    Hey everyone! I have been working on the Hyperion setup for over a month. After many iterations and lots of returns, I have a full working hardware setup. I will put the links to what I purchased here, hopefully to help someone in the stages of setup (A TON of the links in other older forums posts lead to nowhere, etc). This is all working equipment as of 7/10/2021.

    My Existing Equipment:

    Media Source: Nvidia Shield - Link

    • Plex
    • Netflix
    • Disney+

    Secondary Source: Nintendo Switch on dock

    Those are connected into 2 HDMI Input which support HDCP 2.2 in a Yamaha RX-V683. This was purchased a few years ago, and in hindsight I probably would have gotten a different unit, I have had some issues with HDMI handshake and CEC. Here is the link to the unit specs.

    This unit has one HDMI output, and is run in wall using Monster MC 1000HD 25 Ultra High Speed to my setup. This is connected to XOLORspace S104 on the port in. The HDMI Out port 1 is connected to my TV, which is a 4K TCL C103X model # 65S425, link here. The TV is powered to the wall, and the Xolorspace is powered via its adapter to the wall.

    On the Xolorspace, HDMI Out port 2 is connected to my HDMI Video Capture Card here. This device is connected via USB 3 to the USB 3 port on my Raspberry Pi 4 2GB, which is here. I tried it on a Rpi 3B+ and there was too much performance lag. The HDMI capture Card is powered via a 5v to USB, which is plugged into my USB 2.0 port on my Pi. The Rpi 4 is powered via a USB-C official charger, plugged into the wall.

    I have GPIO18 connected to the green data cable on my LED strip at one end. I have pin 14 connected to the ground cable on my LED strip. I used a combination of these Dupont wires, alongside some light soldering and some thicker wires (I believe 16 AWG copper stranded wire form Lowe's).

    For the LED setup:

    • I have the LED strips powered and grounded on both ends. The pattern is 81 LED on top and bottom, and 44 LED on sides. They are connected at the corners using these connectors, but I plan to replace those with soldering at some point.
    • These are the LED. I cut the waterproofing cover off, I ordered it by accident.

    For the power supply:

    • This unit, 5v 20a 100w.
    • I sized the power supply based on my LED strip and LED count. The full strip of 300 LED would take 90w, so I got a 100w PSU given the fact that I am only running 251 LED.
    • I connected the PSU to the wall using a cut computer cable, measured 5.0v and tuned the device to be exactly 5 (there is an adjustment knob).
    • There are 4 5v output terminals, two for ground and 2 for 5v. I connected each end of the LED strips to these terminals.

    For the OS, I am running HyperHDR. The only modifications I made was running it as root, enabling wifi and SSH, and adding the max_usb modification to config.txt. I setup my LED layout, which is GRB.

    LED Hardware screenshot. Everything else in HyperHDR is left default, though I have not tuned performance, color, black bars, or touched HDR settings as of yet.


    With this setup, I can successfully run 4K content to the TV with HDR, and my LEDs work. I can also switch to the Nintendo Switch and the LED work there as well. Overall, I spent about three times as much money and ten times as much time on this project, which I originally discovered here.

    I will follow up this post with a video of performance tonight once the lights are off. I do not have any pictures of the actual install because, well, I forgot to take them and I am not taking the TV off the wall again. With stock settings my Rpi4 it is chugging, so I will be turning things down for sure, HTOP screenshot here.

    Another update. I have narrowed down the failure to the USB connection. When I remove the USB, everything works as expected. As soon as I plug in the USB, things stop working. I have tried both USB 3 and 2 ports, same behavior. I have also played around with Shield and AVR, and the switcher, with many different resolutions- nothing changes the LED come on for the Nintendo Switch, and come on then off for anything else.

    Going to try a powered USB hub, I saw it mentioned here before. Any advice is welcome (even if just more troubleshooting steps, or logs to view)!

    Further update when I switch the output of The Shield to 1080p it's still shuts off after 6 seconds. When it shuts off I have two LEDs in the top right corner right by where the power supply feed is that light up a light blue purple. When I turn on effects they go and stay, so it's just the shield. The switcher does not support CEC, I have a feeling this is a problem with the LEDs themself and not with the shield.

    I believe I have this corrected. Basically I had to force the display mode output from Shield, and changed it off of 4k 60Hz HDR10 to different resolution and YUV. With this, I now have a different issue though. When using the Nintendo Switch, Hyperion works as intended. When I switch to the shield, or disable/enable USB capture, it starts working for about 5s, then just shuts off. While it is working, it is fully working. Logs show nothing crazy:

    Any ideas why hyperion just shuts off LED's?

    I put this in place:…yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

    When my source is 1080p like the switch, the S104 outputs two images, and Hyperion works flawlessly.

    When my source is my Nvidia Shield outputting 4k 60Hz HDR, then the output to the TV works. The secondary output connected to the pi using a capture device, flashes a color when it first engages, then goes dark. This is my log while the 4K is connected:

    When I take the output off of the pi/capture, and plug it straight into a 1080p secondary monitor, the color is all inverted as you can see on the left.

    Any ideas as to what is wrong?

    Ok, I attached the PSU at both ends, and it brightened it up. I have huge color variation though, this is it at 100% white.

    The corners except for the PSU connection are connected via the white L clips, and if I press hard on them it fluctuates the color and flickers. Also if I lower brightness the colors "normalize" but not 100% the same color even at 10% brightness.

    I assume I need to solder as a next step? If I do, can I user 16 AWG stranded wire?

    If measure power at bottom left (top right is both ends of the PSU connection), I am only seeing 2.4v.

    I have a 251 LED strip of WS2812B, 3 PIN. I have it powered with a 5v, 20a, 100w power supply. I have a RPI4 which is powered via its own USB-C supply. I have data from the LED connected to GPIO18 on the Pi. I have ground from the LED connected to GPIO30 on the pi.

    When I measure voltage out of the PSU its 5.38v output.

    If I read the power at the end of the LED strip when it is not lit, I read 3.5v.

    I cannot get the LED working at all, just the first pixel lights up currently.

    Do I need to install a level shifter? Or do I need to power the other end of the LED? If I do this, do I need more power? The full 5m strip is stated to be 90w, and I am 49 LED short of full.

    Pulled this from my receiver:

    HDMI inputs include 5 at the back, three of which support HDCP 2.2 for 4K HDR components, and one up front, along with an ARC port for simple connection to your TV. The RX-V683 also supports 4K HDR passthrough, upscaling at 60 fps, HDR10, Dolby Vision, and even HLG.

    RIP. Maybe it is Dolby Vision.

    Also one more question. No matter what is on the screen there's always color coming out of the leds. Let's say that I stop a movie or there's credit scrolling and the screen is completely black... Even then the LEDs are admitting a light white hue. What could be the cause for this?

    To be honest I went through almost about every single setting in here. Both in image processing and in the controller and most of the changes did not make too much of an effect on lighting besides making things brighter or dimmer.

    I just watched our YouTube video of Hyperion and when the screen went to Black the LEDs were off... Mine don't do that.

    I don't think my sources are Dolby vision, it's just Plex, Netflix and YouTube through Nvidia Shield in 4k. I have been reading about a lot of problems with HDR and I think maybe that is contributing... If I change the shield output to 1080p it just breaks everything and doesn't even work at that point. I did turn down 4k from 60fps to 30fps and it stopped flashing in and out, so must be cable length, or quality of the loopback device? Not sure.

    I have decreased the capture software like you mentioned but not to those specific settings, I will give those a try when I get home. I checked htop in my pie and I noticed that I was at 1.5 load average... I ordered a rpi4 last night to replace my device (from 2016). This will also allow me to go from my loopback device to rpi in USB3, maybe help with latency.

    I had a bunch of trouble with HDMI handshake when I first got the receiver, so I assume you are correct there. I have not gone through the Yamaha settings yet, maybe CEC needs to be turned off etc. We heavily use CEC though so will need to gauge if losing it will prove a problem.

    Brand new Hyperion user here, awesome platform! I followed this guide:…Raspberry_Pi_microSD_card

    This is my LED:…o_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s03



    65" TV, 128 LED total.

    LED light up when I manually effect them, GRB works, etc. When I enable "Enable platform capture" random LED light up static. With "Enable USB capture" nothing happens.

    I will say this- HDMI is working funny, like screen is flashing to black and HDMI signal is dropping, etc. I ASSUME its a wonky controller- can someone recommend and link one for my setup (Or link me to a forum post)? Thank you!