What about someone without any splitter or usb grabber?
i used the display capture as a source and there seems to be a problem with the brightness, because every color, even a single led is more bright in the effect mode, than the captured colors.
What about someone without any splitter or usb grabber?
i used the display capture as a source and there seems to be a problem with the brightness, because every color, even a single led is more bright in the effect mode, than the captured colors.
did you found any solutions?
i got the same kind of problem. Compared with effects light rainbow swirl the brightness of the capture device from my monitor (GC) doesnt seem as bright as the effect.
especially with a kinda same background image as a test for the capture brightness.
Hi there,
iam fairly new and a good user here could already help me out. my project is kinda finished, but iam not very happy with the end-result in comparision with my "only 7 segments" gradient light from hue on my TV.
i bought the WS2812B with 60 leds. in total 98 around my monitor. Iam wondering, can i setup any segments like in hue and kinda favour vibrant colors for the grabber? like not find the middle spot between gray and red (= dark red) and chose bright red instead?
i know, that will make the colors look a little to forced, but iam sitting close to the monitor and not watching it from 3 meters away hope you can help, couldnt find a setting for the grabber "prefer strong colors" instead of white and dark.
regards
It's working the "common ground" did the trick. I'm so happy right now and thank you very much.
now i can start extend the length and add the sides to my monitor currently only the bottom line is setup for testing.
Alles anzeigenThere is no GND from the power supply unit to the ESP!
You always need a common ground.
Signal over USB is limited in the baud rate so in most cases it is not a good idea.
regards pclin
So I add a cable from ESP GND pin to the power supply negativ (GND) as a bridge to create a common ground?
Will try that later this afternoon.
What do you exactly mean by the statement with the signal over USB? Should I stay with WLED over wifi and don't use the USB Port from my PC for the signal?
Best regards and thanks in advance.
Hi to you all,
i'm really new here and used the google search a lot since yesterday.
since a friend of mine recommended hyperion as an alternative for hue gradient. i want to use hyperion for my pc so, i bought the hardware and come across some problems, which i cant really get my head around.
the hardware:
- ESP 8266 with wled installed
- WS2812b strip, cut down for testing to 74 leds,
- MeanWell Power Supply LPV-60-5
- USB Power Supply with 1.2 amps (5V)
the setup (working):
- USB Power Supply to the ESP and the VIN, GND and D4 with dupond pins to the Strips connector
- Hyperion WLED setup
the setup not working:
- temporary USB power supply to the ESP to power it
- D4 to the Strip
- MW power supply to the Strips positive and negativ.
- Hyperion WLED setup
The problem is:
If i'm using the MW power supply directly on the strip, only a few (some times 1, some times up to 5) only work and all of them flicker and blinking on their own. They don't get the right signal or interprete the signal.
my guess was, that the power supply is broken, but it gave me slightly above 5V (5.22V) after testing it with a multimeter.
And since it is a LED power supply their should'nt be any missing components, which the ESP have.
I wish i could power the strip directly via the esp, but the information is clear about the maximum amps, and i need more than 1 amps for the whole "around the monitor" project.
Since i want to give the signal over USB from my PC to minimize latency, i don't want to use an usb power supply for the ESP. And the LED count limit from the ESP is the second reason why i need the power supply
Pictures from the setup:
- Not working (Dupond connection from MW to the strip, testing only... wire connection was implemented, but cut out again due to not working)
- Working, leaving the MW power supply out, only ESP for power
- the MW power supply
Hope you can help.
Any ideas?