Posts by Xitee1

  • LED processing: Flickering if there is ANY movement

    I did some more testing now. First I tried it with a fresh config but it's the same result.

    My Hyperion runs on CoreELEC with the Addon that comes from the CoreELEC repo. Sadly there are no other versions than 2.0.16 for testing.

    But I can definitively confirm now that it's not the grabber, because I just remembered that we also effects in Hyperion ^^

    and with the Rainbow swirl (and probably all other effects) it's exactly the same and very noticeable.


    Next I tried it with another instance on my PC using the sirfragalot/hyperion.ng docker image, on version 2.0.16 and 2.1.1, and there it's exactly the same, so it should be easily reproduceable (no hardware needed, just the default effect as source and /dev/null as LED device). But there's one difference: it's not permanent. It's very noticeable after a restart of Hyperion and after about 30 seconds disappears and is completely smooth. Although sometimes there is still some flickering at random times.


    But testing it with the rainbow effect, I just realized that this flickering is actually not noticeable on the real hardware LEDs. But still, I often see flickering just like in the preview when watching something where movement is in the center but mostly still image at the edges of the screen. Maybe these are different kind of issues?


    Here's the debug log from my test instance:

  • LED processing: Flickering if there is ANY movement

    I'm sorry if my last reply was offensive, I'm not mad at all and I really appreciate that you are trying to help me.

    English is not my native language and there it's even harder for me to not sound offensive. I just want to make things clear because I had the feeling you didn't fully understand me.


    Quote from Ambient_theater77

    troubleshooting is marking down al possibility flaws

    Exactly, and I already confirmed that it's not the grabber. And even if any setting for the USB grabber would fix that problem, the problem would still persist for the screen grabbing, so it will not fix the actual problem.

    Because of that it just doesn't make sense for me further experimenting in that area and only a waste of time for both of us.


    I will try out a few things like switching versions and complete resetting my config.

  • LED processing: Flickering if there is ANY movement

    I have now changed the encoding format from YUYV to MJPEG and to 25 FPS but it makes no difference at all.

    After I finally found them, I set the settings from your screenshot but they also do not help.

    I expected that because as said, it happens no matter from what source, be it the USB HDMI grabber or a direct screen capture (depending on my input device I use a different method). The settings you've mentioned are only for the USB grabber.

  • LED processing: Flickering if there is ANY movement

    Quote from Ambient_theater77

    did you run the Hyperion.NG on expertmode and alter the grabbersettings?

    I'm not really sure, but I probably once was in expert mode on that instance.

    If I remember correctly I changed something in the USB capture settings, I think it was changing the encoding format.


    But what grabber settings and FPS do you mean exactly? I haven't found anything that is exclusive to the expert mode (by switching between modes and comparing).

  • LED processing: Flickering if there is ANY movement

    Hi,

    I have weird flickering problems with the image processing. As soon as there is ANY movement on the screen, ALL the LEDs start flickering for some reason. This happens especially in dark scenes.

    First I thought that this is a hardware problem with my LEDs or grabber, but it is also visible in the LED live view in the webinterface and is unrelated to the capturing method (happens with direct screen capture or HDMI grabber).

    The LED smoothing option has no affect.


    Forgive me if this has already been asked multiple times, but I wasn't able to find a flickering issue that is unrelated to the LED hardware.


    Here's a video of the issue:

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    Link if the embed is not working: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ADdiAfPOP8




  • Ambilight with RPi4, hdmi grabber and Denon AV-reciever

    Schlorzinator you could check if just the LEDs are misbehaving or the capture card using the live video preview in the hyperion webinterface.

    I'm not sure how your LEDs are connected but if using e.g. WLED you could also check if there are any other devices sending signals to it. I had a similar problem where my LEDs flickered pretty fast. I had accidentally running 2 Hyperion instances sending different data at the same time to the same LED controller.

  • Ambilight with RPi4, hdmi grabber and Denon AV-reciever

    Schlorzinator No I haven't tested a EDID Emulator, I didn't buy one because no matter what product I looked at, everywhere where the reviews that say it does not permanently store the EDID and just forgets it. That's why I use the ezcoo splitter (but not for splitting, I only have connected one device, the capture card to output one, because I'm using the two outputs of my AVR) that has a EDID preset. It doesn't advertise all the features that my TV would have to the AVR (e.g. HLG HDR) but HDR and Dolby Vision at 4K 60FPS do work.

    So basically that splitter is my EDID emulator because I didn't find an emulator that properly stores the data or has presets.

  • Controlling RGBW LEDs with ESP32 over network

    After finally getting the grabber working with my setup, I now would like to make use of my RGBW LEDs (only RGB is actually being used).


    My setup is an ESP32 ethernet board (wt32-eth01) and Hyperion running as a service on my streaming box (CoreELEC). On the ESP32 is WLED.

    All this works now, but so far it doesn't make use of the white color from my LED strip.

    As far as I figured out, it only works if the LEDs are directly connected to the device running Hyperion or with a direct connection over USB for example to the ESP. But that's something I'd really like to avoid and keep these parts separate and stream over network (latency is no issue at all, everything is wired with ethernet and actually my LEDs are faster than the image on screen).


    Is there a way to let Hyperion also control the white channel?

    I have no problem with putting something else on the ESP chip.


    There's no option to enable RGBW.

  • Ambilight with RPi4, hdmi grabber and Denon AV-reciever

    Update:

    Denon EDID:
    Did some more testing with the Denon secret EDID settings and the're just buggy and mostly useless because:

    When the device on Mon 1 (which we copy from) turns off, it re-initializes the picture and no longer has the EDID, which causes Kodi to turn on the TV again all the time (makes it impossible to turn it off for longer than 5 seconds). Doesn't happen though with my Xiaomi Android TV Box.


    Fixing the Capture card problem (not working in Kodi with 4K @ 60FPS):

    In the meantime I've got my new capture card (do NOT buy!) in hopes to get 4K 60FPS working. But the new one is just the same, they just lie in the description and it can't properly do 4K @ 60FPS. Actually, it's worse than my original capture card because it has this debug screen thing when there's no screen, instead of just outputting a black image.

    Because I no longer wanted to search for capture cards that may or may not work, I just bought the https://www.amazon.de/dp/B083JVPXDY?tag=hyperioforum-21&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title , not because of the splitting capability (since my AVR does that) but for the downscaling function. Now I can properly use my capture card with Kodi and 4K @ 60FPS because the splitter downscales it to 1080p.

    I hoped I could use the EDID emulation of that splitter too, which I can, although it's not perfect. The two presets do not include HLG HDR for example. I tried using the copy function and then plugging my TV back to the AVR which worked, but only until the HDMI splitter looses power. I could probably just use the splitter for actually splitting the signal, but for now I just prefer avoiding that extra cabling to my TV.

    My next idea is to just use an EDID emulator between the second AVR output and the HDMI splitter with EDID from my TV, but in the reviews for most emulators, I've read that they are not persistent either across power loss, so I for now just leave it as is. I can still use the trick to switch to Mon 1 before rebooting Kodi.


    The surprise with my new Kodi box:

    After that (would've been unrelated, but actually made things so much easier) I bought the Ugoos AM6B+ to replace my Raspberry Pi so that I have Dolby Vision.

    It really surprised me that on there, Hyperion actually has an internal screen capture, and what surprised me even more, is that it even works with Dolby Vision! And yes, my TV is the sink device, I confirmed that by switching to my HDMI capture card, which shows the purple image only. And what surprised me even more is that I no longer have LED delay but instead, the picture on TV is slower than my LEDs (need to find a way to set a delay in hyperion now lol)!

    Don't know if this works with all CoreELEC devices, but I can really recommend the Ugoos AM6B+, even if you don't bother with DV FEL, it's just such a great device because it literally just works, even the things I didn't expect. But note that it's only good if you have local media and do not use streaming providers.


    To summarize this enormous post, this is the setup I ended up with:

    For my Android box:

    - AVR (Mon 1) -> TV

    - AVR (Mon 2) -> Ezcoo Splitter (downscale 4K to 1080p) -> Capture Card


    For Kodi (Ugoos AM6B+):

    - AVR (Mon 1) -> TV

    - CoreELEC hyperion screen capture


    When using the Ugoos, I switch to Mon 1 output only and use internal capture.

    When using the Xiaomi box, I switch to dual output using the capture card.

    I'll automate that using Home Assistant, but for now I need to switch the source in Hyperion remote control after switching.

    When rebooting the Ugoos, I must make sure the AVR is set to Mon out 1 only because of the EDID.

  • Ambilight with RPi4, hdmi grabber and Denon AV-reciever

    Sadly my setup still behaves absolutely weird.


    TL;DR

    That EDID setting in the AVR setting does kind of work and I'm able to play back (so far) most HDR content. Some content works with a little luck, some content is almost impossible get it to play without issues. These issues are related to the EDID setting in the AVR and not the capture card. Also, I'm still limited to 1080p, probably and hopefully because my capture card can't handle it.



    To explain my setup a bit, here's what works without ambilight and without any capture card attached with the default HDMI settings on my AVR:

    - Xiaomi TV (Android TV) Box: Can do 4K 60FPS with Dolby Vision support, apparently can't do HDR. Colorspace: YCbCr 4:4:4 8bits

    - Raspberry Pi 4 with LibreElec and HyperHDR: Can do 4K 60FPS with (HLG) HDR. Colorspace: Dynamic / RGB 8 bits in UI from what I remember, but for some reason currently my AVR Info menu is bugged and no longer works depending on what content is currently on screen (but in Kodi only). Edit after writing the next few points: Seems to work now again, no idea what happened.


    With my capture card and default HDMI settings on my AVR:

    - Xiaomi TV Box: Can do 4K 60FPS without DV and capturing works all the time. Colorspace: YCbCr 4:2:0 8bits

    - LibreElec: Can do 4K 30 FPS (no 60 FPS option with 4K) or 1080p 60FPS. No (HLG) HDR. Capturing works all the time. Colorspace: Dynamic / RGB 8bits in UI


    With my capture card and HDMI EDID copy settings on AVR:

    - Xiaomi TV Box: Can do 4K 30FPS or 1080p 60FPS with DV and capturing works all the time. When setting it to 4K 60FPS I still have an image on TV but ambilight turns off. Colorspace: YCbCr 4:4:4 8bits

    - LibreElec: Can do 4K 30FPS or 1080p 60FPS. When setting it to 4K 60FPS I still have an image on TV but ambilight turns off. Colorspace: Dynamic / RGB 8bits in UI. As expected, it reports that (HLG) HDR is supported and I managed to correctly calibrate my ambilight with HyperHDR and its test videos. Full HDR support and everything is working apart from 60FPS which probably is a limit of my capture card, so I thought. But here's where it goes absolutely crazy, I will get into that below.


    Detection of HDMI capabilities (was mostly relevant before finding that secret HDMI EDID setting):

    - Xiaomi TV Box: Directly on EDID change, no tricks allowed here. It limits capabilities as soon as capture card is attached, even when AVR is on Mon 1 only mode.

    - LibreElec: On reboot, which allows some tricks like rebooting without a capture card attached, then attach it and HDR seems to still work. It only limits capabilities if set to dual out mode, it does not limit capabilities when on Mon 1 out unlike the Xiaomi box. When trying to switch to 4K 60 FPS I get a black screen and ambilight no longer works (which is different than having the HDMI EDID copy settings active, see above).


    So here comes the part where things start to behave absolutely weird:

    As said above, the HyperHDR HDR calibration worked without problems, I was able to play back the videos (https://github.com/awawa-dev/a…o/tree/master/calibration) and the ambilight worked just fine. The HDR logo from my TV was also shown which confirmed that HDR was working.

    But when playing back the Jellyfin HDR test videos (https://repo.jellyfin.org/test-videos/), it was completely glitched out and it looked like this:

    What it should look like is this:

    It is all pretty random and I even got it to work once with ambilight. I first thought the capture card is still affecting it, but I noticed after completely disconnecting it that this is more due to the EDID copy option on my AVR. Disabling this while also disconnecting the capture card made HDR working flawlessly all the time.

    I tested this with a movie that works most of the time but it is in 4K @ 24FPS which my capture card also doesn't support (I have dynamic refresh rate in Kodi enabled, but that also isn't the cause of this weird issue, disabling it had no positive effect) so still no ambilight.

    Sometimes when I exit out of the movie that plays normally and let it play in the background, it glitches out again, but after just testing this again, it no longer happened. It's really random.


    And that's not all, this weird pixel thing just happened too (but so far only once):

    What is even weirder is that it depends on the video. So far the HyperHDR test videos have worked all the time without any issues.

    I've tested 5 other HDR 1080p movies and they all played without issue.


    To conclude, my capture card itself seems to be working with HDR and the only limitation is 4K with framerates like 60 or 24 FPS (sometimes it works with 60 FPS, my assumption is that it maybe could be caused by the used colorspace? But before it also worked with 24 FPS when I attached it after booting LibreElec and without EDID settings).

    The video glitches start happening as soon as I enable the EDID copy option on my AVR, not related to the capture card being connected or not. But this setting is required to make HDR work without that reboot trick with my capture card.


    My question is if such weird issues also happen with an EDID emulator or if this is specific to the AVR EDID settings?


    I was planning to buy this capture card:

    .. and if the image glitch issue is related to the avr settings and do not happen with an emulator I'll need to get one too.

    Is it not possible to edit posts? Writing a new one then.


    So I did some more testing and this weird image glitch definitively has something to do with the AVR EDID setting but also with the selected resolution and refresh rate.

    For testing I have connected another TV instead of the capture card to the second output which supports 4K 60FPS, HDR and DV.

    I was then able to set the resolution at 4K with 60FPS (after a reboot of LibreElec, before I just got a black screen but now it works).

    I played back the Jellyfin test video and it did work without any a problem. With or without the other TV connected.

    It actually seems to be completely irrelevant what device is connected to the second HDMI output.

    When I change the resolution from 4K 60FPS to 1080p 60FPS, these weird colored glitches appear (the Jellyfin test video is in 1080p). When I change the resolution to 4K 30FPS, the Jellyfin test videos play fine but I get this blocky video in the movie.

    If I set the resolution to 4K 60FPS (which my current capture card sadly can't handle), it appears to work flawlessly, be it 4K or 1080p or whatever framerate being played. It is only relevant what is set in the Kodi display settings.


    These issues only appear if I set the AVR to copy mon 1 though. If I leave it default and then reboot, it works in 1080p too.

    If I change to copy mon 1 without rebooting LibreElec, it still works. It probably is a LibreElec/Kodi issue which is affected by the EDID setting.

    This likely is how I've got HDR capture of the Jellyfin HDR test video working previously.


    I'm really wondering if this happens with an external EDID emulator too or if the Denon does something weird there.


    Because there're cheap I will probably end up buying an EDID emulator together with the capture card to be safe and do some more testing. But according to my current testings, it should just work with a capture card that can handle 4K with 60FPS.

  • Ambilight with RPi4, hdmi grabber and Denon AV-reciever

    I'm probably a bit late but I am currently at setting up my ambilight for my TV with Denon AVR and had the same issue that my AVR always prefers the lower monitor capabilities, so no Dolby Vision or HDR as soon as I add my Capture Card to the second HDMI output. So I need a way to copy the EDID of my TV and the solution here was an HDMI EDID emulator.

    But actually there is no need for it because I just discovered a little secret menu in my AVR settings!

    I have an AVR-X2800H and when I navigate to it's web page at its local IP address where you can configure all the standard settings, I noticed a small little link at the bottom right that says "CI Menu". You have to confirm that you want to proceed and then there's a menu "HDMI Diagnostics". In this menu, there's a sub-menu called "Limit Mode".

    There you can choose an "EDID Copy/Preset" which you can change from "Default" to "Copy M1" for each input.

    I did this and can confirm, this is exactly what it does, it ignores the lower specs of my capture card and forces to use the EDID of my TV. This setting seems to be persistent across reboots too!

    Now I just need a little better capture card because mine can't handle 4K 60FPS (sometimes it does though, it's really weird) and hopefully I can get HDR to work with HyperHDR, need to figure that out. But at least I can avoid this extra hardware :)