Beiträge von RKF

While @Lord-Grey looks into the code for you I can only share my successful experience using instances.

I also looked at the particle photon and it seems that they are somewhat different to the $2 ESP8266 (D1 mini, for instance). My setup is based on the D1 mini. I use them for my "ORB's". But really they are not "ORB's". they are just a circle of LEDs mounted inside a stripped out IKEA FADO. I don't use the ORB controller for the LED's (I use UDPE131)

If you have some D1 Mini, load up the ESPixelStick firmware as per my above instructions. Create an instance for the left side, and then another instance for the right side (or the bottom, or the whole TV) an instance for each, and a D1 Mini for each. In my case, each FADO lamp will run both the LEDs and the D1 Mini from an iPhone charger, or any 2A charger, quite comfortably. I desoldered the blue LED inside the D1 mini, and it sits inside the FADO as well.

Sharing my setup config is kind of pointless, because each "instance" is its own config.

Please try a D1 mini (or any NodeMCU) you might have lying around.

Here is a screenshot of my setup with multiple instances running multiple D1 mini's with an undetectable latency. I have 2 TV's (Sony and Rumpus), 2 FADO lamps (UDP left and right), and a display case light strip all running at once.

As an aside, I control the power-up and power-down of the devices through MQTT in Node Red, the power up signal is mapped to a simple Ikea Zigbee light switch that runs through zigbee2mqtt. If you use the WLED firmware you can power up the device in even smarter ways. The FADO lamps double as Lounge Lights with their own colour when not being used by Hyperion.

If you wish to go down the D1 mini / FADO path and get stuck, I can help further, but I want to reinforce that I don't use forwarders, OR the ORB controller for any of my setup.

You don't need forwarders anymore. My suggestion is to install the NG alpha 7 into your Odroid only. Once that is running and you are capturing for your TV leds, simply configure another instance (as I wrote in my edit of my OP).
Install ESPixelstick into your photon and fire it up. (If you are using WS2812 led's - otherwise use WLED firmware)
Configure it as follows
Device ID - (whatever)
Universe - 1
Start Channel - 1
Boundary - 512
Pixel Count - your number of LEDS in the orb
LED type - whatever you are using.

Start the instance - there will now be your TV leds running in one instance, and your ORB running at the same time under a different instance)
You'll notice on Hyperion that you now have a left/right arrow at the top right corner of the screen. Switch between instances to edit each instance if necessary. Start and stop each instance in the same place as you created the instance (see the edit of my OP)
Configure the new instance the same way as you would when setting up your TV LEDS. (The ORB LED number count and colour, as well as the capture source etc.).
For the LED controller type - choose UDPE131
Point the target IP to the IP address of your photon - leave everything else the same (perhaps choose the latch time to 2ms if you have any issues)

Good luck

@Blokmeister
As per my edit, what worked for me was setting up multiple instances. No more forwarders necessary. This is one of the greatest assets of Hyperion NG. I now have 3 "Orbs" however I am not using the AtmoOrb software per-se.
Personally I recommend using either ESPixelStick or WLED firmware in your ORBs. Add each device (ORB, Strip, whatever) as an instance in Hyperion - Setup your LED range for each individually in each instance, as well as your capture source and you are good to go.
Let me know how that goes.

I have been using a single AtmoOrb with great success on Hyperion NG

But I would like to consider a "stereo" AtmoOrb setup with Orbs mounted left and right.

I'd like to know how I set up two devices with two different scan areas within the web UI.

Specifically, if I have two Orbs with 24 LEDS, I can use the LED page to setup "Left" 24 LEDS, and "right" 24 LEDS, but how do I tell NG to send the signals to the correct Orbs ID?

Edit:
I'm using WS2812 rings each containing 24 LEDs - I connect these to an 8266, and I don't care what typer of UDP is used. I chose the AtmoOrb because they can use multiple ID's to hopefully get the Left / Right assignment.

Thank you!

Edit - Figured it out:
Simply configure another instance - Configuration > General >LED Hardware Instance Management. Run them both at the same time.

1080p will likely work (ezcap301). I liked the idea of having 4k60 passthrough. Bear in mind that EDID plays funny games during USB capture. For example using UTV007 pulls my system down to 720p. There's also a stupidly hot running HDMI "all in one" for $20 but it does the same. I'm riding on the testimonies of others - and in the absence of being able to return something that didn't work, it was worth the extra.

Not cheap to fix this scenario. I use a Vertex Fury. Input 4K60 > Output 1 = 4k60, Output 2 1080/60. My capture is an ezcap 269. This device will not affect EDID so you can capture in 800x600 for super fast video capture.

Everything seems to be working without issue, but I'm just wondering if there is an intention to add selection of the (Australian) frequencies of 25Hz and 50Hz?
Of course, if it ultimately makes no difference, then could you just let me know here?

In Alpha 6, I found only two only frequency options - 30Hz and 60Hz.
I'm using the ezcap269 which recognises the 1080P/50hz output to my Raspberry Pi4 running Buster

I've tried entering 50Hz in the "custom" frame-rates, but the debug still shows 30Hz or 60Hz, depending on whether I chose 25Hz or 50Hz.

Thanks and regards - I'm really enjoying this version...no more LED flicker too!

Gentlemen - I am considering the ezcap269 as well. Based on your experience to date, would you recommend this unit as an acceptable choice as a video grabber for Hyperion NG?
My normal throughput is simply a 4K30 or 4K60 from a set top box. I believe that the HDCP is not affected, so "on paper" it looks like the perfect solution.
Could you please update your experience with it in relation to Hyperion NG. I'll be using a Raspberry Pi 4. Thank you.

Zitat von TPmodding

wrong... first instance is correct, your send the data to a second instance...but in the second instance your led device has to be the receiver...

i added my config...main is the rpi with my lpd8806 leds on the SPI pins and left and right are 2 esp8266 with ws2812b leds

Thanks so much for sharing your configs. By looking at yours (especially with the embedded comments) I have a better understanding of the role and setup of the forwarder. There were also a few formatting errors in my config file, and again using your configs they are nice and clean now.
My next goal is to remove the latency issues with my Philips Hue, but I'll post that the correct forum.
Again, thanks so much for this awesome support and willingness to help out the community.

EDIT:
I just realized that you need a minimum of 2 LED's or the firmware defaults to PWM.
I think I've solved my problem.
Feel free to delete this post.

Good evening.
I have been using the Hyperion Classic Setup for a few years now and am completely in love with it.
But I now I have a somewhat obscure setup request and it has driven me mad for the last couple of days and I just cannot get it to dance for me.

I'd like to arrange just one or two APA102 LED's just beside our lounge chair as a kind-of surround ambilight, utilising the ESP8266 receiving forwarded JSON from the PI
So my current setup uses the v4l2 capture and a PI B
I followed the link provided by @TPmodding https://hyperion-project.org/w…trolling-Multiple-Devices and set up as follows;

FIRST Instance on the Pi (configMASTER.json)
I set the forwarder to forward PROTO to 127.0.0.1:20445 and json to 127.0.0.1:20444

SECOND Instance on the same Pi (config8266.json) receives the forwarded above Proto and json
PROTO Server "20445"
JSON Server "20444"
Set the Forwarder to send to the wifi ESP8266
{
"json" : ["192.168.1.222:19446"],
"proto" : ["192.168.1.222:19444"]
},

I configure a single LED index 0 (using the VSCAN and HSCAN settings of right of screen)

Launching both above files in a sequence does not throw any port issues, so I assume that I have gotten the forwarding right (see code below of both)

Result
No lights - The ESP8266 on 192.168.1.222 should be able to finally receive the data from the v4l2 and light up my solitary APA102, but I just get an some occasional flicker
The PROTO successfully connects to 192.168.1.222:19444
I do not see that the JSON is connecting anywhere, am I missing something?

Yep - I have power to the unit.
In fact I just bought a new splitter (that was confirmed by other users to successfully strip HDCP)
Even with that new splitter, I still can't get a screen grab into the fusical 007 via the HDMI2AV

Again, if I put a standard video signal (the yellow RCA) into the 007, no problem, I can grab it.

So now I have tested 3 HDCP splitters that all pass video to my TV but not to the HDMI2AV

I'm really confused -

Zitat von Lethargik

do you have the splitter connected to a power source? /QUOTE]

Hello - this is my first post. I'm having trouble getting my grabber to grab AFTER the HDMI splitter, which seems to have no issue displaying TV out of the second port.

I have setup Hyperion on both OPENELEC and OSMC with the same result.

Working:
Splash screen LEDS work fine.
KODI movies Hyperion / Ambilight effect works as expected
AV source (yellow) RCA direct into GRABBER - Hyperion / Ambilight works fine
Using the HDMI out of the SET TOP BOX > HDMI2AV = successful GRAB

BUT

Not Working: (the normal setup)
SET TOP BOX > HDMI Splitter output 1 > HDMI2AV > Grabber = No grab/black screenshot
SET TOP BOX > HDMI Splitter output 2 > TV = no problem

In this last scenario, the HDMI Splitter also successfully displays 1080 to the TV as expected with output 2.

So the splitter splits, I can see TV as expected. But it seems that something is happening inside the splitter. I have two HDMI splitters that I bought from different sources. Both will split PS3 and Foxtel and output 1080p. They work, but why doesn't the grabber see what the TV sees? I'm stumped.

I've tried two different HDMI2AV - one with the complex PC board and one with the simple board - at this stage the simpler one is doing just fine - but its just the $10 one on both occasions with the PAL/NTSC switch (without the toslink and SPDIF)

So before I go out and spend more money, I wonder if its the HDMI2AV, or the splitter?

Any ideas would be appreciated.
RF