Posts by nards1134

    rcarmichael , you mentioned an ST device handler. Are you referring to an older one? Bc I've been searching high and dry for either an alexa or Smartthings option for Hyperion and I've got nothing. There was something really old that no longer works. Can you share the working ST DTH? Have you tested it?


    Fingers crossed bc this will change the game for me!

    UPDATE:


    Lord-Grey , all is good now using the REST client from your screenshot in firefox. I was using Advanced Rest Client that tube0013 was using in chrome. Guess it's not out of the box ready.


    Now on to figuring out how to pull this into Smartthings, or Alexa!

    I've done some researching but it's hard when you don't have a background and really don't know where to start. The remote option is ok but I really need to figure out some automation since I've got a house full. I had my old hyperion switch turn off automatically when the smart outlet on the TV detected a significant voltage drop. Was doing this with webcore. I'm sure there are creative ways to set this up, but I don't have the time I used to have before the plethora of kids.


    Thanks for the input everyone.

    Sorry, I was just trying to understand better. I do not know anything about json or curl. I was just simply trying to send the command listed in the documention. I have no dev experience but I was trying to use a similar technique that I used with the old hyperion. I could put HTTP://hyperionIP/color/000000 into a browser to turn my leds black (essentially off). This was then put into a smartthings URI switch device so that I could control through Alexa.


    I have no idea how to go about controlling the new hyperion remotely.

    Did you figure this out? Lord-Grey, I'm attempting the same thing using the Chrome Rest Client, but I cannot figure out how to prevent headers from being sent.


    I've been searching everywhere trying to find some examples of how to send commands via HTTP in order to control hyperion. Is this not as easy to do as it was with legacy hyperion? I had a smartthings uri switch that I could turn my lights black with and honestly can't figure out anything close to being able to do that at this point.

    im using the same HDMI grabber and it works relatively well.


    • Nice to have less wires
    • Have to put it in PAL format for there not to be a large cropping issues. Either way I lose a little bit on the top :-(
    • I wish the refresh rate was better......... I wouldnt really mind buying something better but the options are limited with USB 2.0
    • Honestly the backfeed problem only bothered me while I was still working with my config because it would keep my arduino on. Now I just ignore it
    • Mine gets kind of warm but not hot at all so im not sure why people say it is too hot. maybe mine is different.....


    Can I ask what splitter you're using? My issue is that the direct HDMI grabber backfeeding causes my splitter to reset every 10 min, which in turn either pauses or restarts my fireTV, I believe because of some CEC signal or something. I do not have any issues with the HDMI2AV converter setup. It's only with this. I thought about trying an HDMI surge protector but I dont want to spend more money unless I hear of a similar setup/issue as mine.

    Awesome, I will try this out in the next couple days. I probably missed this, but should I create a script like yours and have it run at bootup? My hyperion auto starts when I reboot. I assume I could control the order?


    Ideally, what I'd like to do is maybe setup a cron to reboot every couple days in the middle of the night and run your cleanup, then have hyperion start.


    Thanks for the help on this.

    Script is/was definitely running. Calling from the pi itself didn't seem to work either. But then something odd happened. I kept trying to call directly from Chrome on my mac. I gave up but left a page opened. About a half hour later my TV lights just popped on. Some sort of bad delay or maybe the router firewall? Not sure. IP address was fine, no change in anything. Very weird.


    I'm no dummy, but not smart enough to try and pinpoint on the network what is actually happening. I'm also planning to setup PiHole on another machine so wondering if I'll run into issues.

    So I just switched my whole system over to Orbi mesh. Now I can't get this setup to work! I've checked everything. IP is static, hyperion Pi is connected fine. Is there something I need to do with Orbi to allow me to make the call? My hyperion android remote app works fine from my phone.




    Did you ever figure out the power backfeeding issue? It's driving me crazy and I really want to use this grabber but some sort of surge is constantly causing my fire TV to pause video playback. Again, I think it's something to do with my HDMI splitter power being surged, but it only happens when I use the HDMI grabber. The RCA/Composite grabber has no issue.

    So now that I've got this working, can anyone share some use cases? For me, this setup is huge bc I've been looking for a way to "turn off" my ambilight with Alexa. By turn off, I mean set it to black bc there's still HDMI signal from my fireTV even with the TV powered off.


    My thinking is that I'll make a virtual momentary push switch, and in webcore make the GET request to the url which calls black. Then I can just add it to Alexa.


    I'd love to be able to call effects too, but not interested in a switch for every effect. I like milhouse's random option.

    Any others successfully set this up? I've done everything by the book but getting nothing when hitting the urls. Is there somewhere I could look at a log to see what's going on. Everything was installed successfully and I've got my python script formatted correctly as well.


    UPDATE: I think I got it!! Guess I just had to restart my hyperion. So far all is working. Thanks!

    Just to update all, I've solved my cropping issue with the direct HDMI grabber (purchased the Nsendato version of aliexpress for $14). When I changed my hyperion config to PAL, it stopped cropping the right and bottom. It's almost perfect!


    Here's the big issue and bc I do not understand the back feeding power concept, I wonder if my issue is due to this grabber. I've got the HDMI usb grabber plugged into my Pi (and to fast forward, now it's plugged into an external powered USB hub. My HDMI splitter is attached to the same power supply as my PI, the USB hub is on a different power source.


    Without fail, watching the fire TV, every few min my playback pauses. I've pretty much isolated to the HDMI USB grabber. I'm fairly certain it's something to do with this back feed power issue? I think what's causing the playback to pause is either some surge or power overload with my splitter. The funny thing is that even with the splitter output going into my HDMI USB grabber, but not plugged into the USB hub, the video will still cut out occasionallly. This I don't understand but after reading some of these posts about the HDMI powering the grabber/Pi, maybe this is my issue.


    Any ideas here on how to stop. I love the color over my HDMI2AV converters, but can't use this with constant pausing.

    I like many of you purchased the Nsendato HDMI USB grabber to cut down on the components strapped to the back of my TV. I wasn't sure if I'd need drivers or anything but it was a straight swap out of the pi and everything seemed good initially. I actually love the color accuracy so much more. I actually have leds turning off now bc the grabber is getting true black from the source. I do have a problem where I can't figure out why the image is getting cropped slightly on the pi. Are there settings on the Pi where I could adjust. I can't see anything in hypercon that fixes my crop. I have it set to not crop at all.


    Here's my BIGGER problem... all of a sudden my Fire TV now pauses every couple of minutes and it doesn't matter what I'm watching. I'm suspecting a power issue bc the issue is very similar to what would happen when I unplugged power to my splitter before. There must be some sort of CEC control in the splitter and Fire TV detects something and pauses the video upon loss of that signal??


    Anyway, I have a supply just for the Pi and HDMI splitter. I thought maybe I don't have enough power but based on what I read here, there's some sort of back feed going on? I'm no expert so wondering if there's anything I can do to stop this annoyance. My supply is 5A but if I need to get a bigger one, that's no problem. Just wanted to get thoughts on whether that may solve the issue or if I need to do something else.

    I'm hoping someone can help me. I previously had a hyperion setup with WS2801 strips and everything worked mostly well, except for flickering issues here and there. I believe that some of it was due to solderless connectors and I think also a single bad led.


    I decided to upgrade to higher res strips and went with SK9822 (which I guess are very similar to APA102C). This time around I soldered all corners and injected power in 4 places as this is for a 75 inch tv. The other thing I decided to do was put in a level shifter/logic converter because I read a lot about the voltage difference with the clock and data lines contributing to flickering problems. I'm good with everything related to setup, but adding this component was something new for me.


    Needless to say, I did research and I believe I hooked it up just fine. I'm putting pics in and not sure you can follow all lines, but basically I went off the 5V Rpi pin to the 5V shifter, then same for the 3V. I also brought grounds over from the pi to the logic converter.


    Here's the issue... whenever I power down or reboot the pi, it never powers back up UNTIL I disconnect the 5V jumper from the pi to the logic board (maybe the 3V too, havent tested that). Once I disconnect, it boots, and I can plug right back in and everything is fine.



    Is there anything I can do to test the failure?