Beiträge von nards1134

    I like many of you purchased the Nsendato HDMI USB grabber to cut down on the components strapped to the back of my TV. I wasn't sure if I'd need drivers or anything but it was a straight swap out of the pi and everything seemed good initially. I actually love the color accuracy so much more. I actually have leds turning off now bc the grabber is getting true black from the source. I do have a problem where I can't figure out why the image is getting cropped slightly on the pi. Are there settings on the Pi where I could adjust. I can't see anything in hypercon that fixes my crop. I have it set to not crop at all.


    Here's my BIGGER problem... all of a sudden my Fire TV now pauses every couple of minutes and it doesn't matter what I'm watching. I'm suspecting a power issue bc the issue is very similar to what would happen when I unplugged power to my splitter before. There must be some sort of CEC control in the splitter and Fire TV detects something and pauses the video upon loss of that signal??


    Anyway, I have a supply just for the Pi and HDMI splitter. I thought maybe I don't have enough power but based on what I read here, there's some sort of back feed going on? I'm no expert so wondering if there's anything I can do to stop this annoyance. My supply is 5A but if I need to get a bigger one, that's no problem. Just wanted to get thoughts on whether that may solve the issue or if I need to do something else.

    I'm hoping someone can help me. I previously had a hyperion setup with WS2801 strips and everything worked mostly well, except for flickering issues here and there. I believe that some of it was due to solderless connectors and I think also a single bad led.


    I decided to upgrade to higher res strips and went with SK9822 (which I guess are very similar to APA102C). This time around I soldered all corners and injected power in 4 places as this is for a 75 inch tv. The other thing I decided to do was put in a level shifter/logic converter because I read a lot about the voltage difference with the clock and data lines contributing to flickering problems. I'm good with everything related to setup, but adding this component was something new for me.


    Needless to say, I did research and I believe I hooked it up just fine. I'm putting pics in and not sure you can follow all lines, but basically I went off the 5V Rpi pin to the 5V shifter, then same for the 3V. I also brought grounds over from the pi to the logic converter.


    Here's the issue... whenever I power down or reboot the pi, it never powers back up UNTIL I disconnect the 5V jumper from the pi to the logic board (maybe the 3V too, havent tested that). Once I disconnect, it boots, and I can plug right back in and everything is fine.



    Is there anything I can do to test the failure?

    Hi Jon, I'm very happy to have stumbled upon this thread. I'm currently redoing my ambilight setup. Previously I had WS2801 with a Pi and for the most part it worked really well. I did have some flickering issues and I think they were mostly due to use snap on connectors. I've purchased the same SK9822 (similar to APA102C) strips as the link you had in the original post. I'm planning to solder the corners this time and I love that I have double the leds per meter, so higher resolution.


    I'm also planning to use a level shifter this time around. I'm plenty fine with all the soldering but for the life of me, I'm not clear on getting the logic/level converter setup and connected properly. It's more that I can't wrap my head around it. I see that you're using a chip and I have one that I purchased that's on a PCB. I've already soldered headers in but I'm trying to understand how to ground it properly and I believe that I need the clock and data lines to run through this?


    here's the converter I purchased - https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod…age_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1