Beiträge von Ppn

Bonsoir,

quand tu lances via HyperCon en cliquant sur "start" tu as l'espèce d'arc-en-ciel qui tourne avant d'avoir ce flickering ? Si oui, tu n'as pas de leds defectueuses, je pense plutôt à un problème, les cables data trop long, tu as testé ? Car ceux d'alimentation tu dis avoir essayer plus court mais les DI/DO sont assez court ?

Sinon il faudra peut-être tester de brancher les leds sur un arduino d'abord ou un nodemcu puis relier au RPi. Pour ma part, j'ai les mêmes LEDs que toi, mais pour un écran 24 pouces et je passe par un nodeMCU lolin V3 à 2€ sur aliexpress et un RPi 2

Nice try, by HDR washout, you mean that the fish eye will not capture exactly what is displayed by the HDR TV so the led (colours) will be washed out ?

Zitat von bigbossfr

Ok guys, after months, I have finally something that works, stable, no flickering at all.
So I use WLEB ( https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED ). @TPmodding, you should check it. It works well with Hyperion.
What I did is that I soldered everything. When I did some tests, I was using some "fast connectors". It was working, but flickering. I took a breadboard, soldered a ESP32, some wire, etc etc... Everything is completely stable now, even with the 192 LEDS at 100% white using 11AMP.
At the end I didn't use any level shifter. I have an ESP32 directly connected to the APA102 LEDs strips, driven by wifi by the camera of the Pi 0.

Great ! So the issue was the fast connector and the solder fixed it maybe ?

And the result with the Pi Cam as a grabber, are you satisfied ? Compared with hyperion screen capture for example ?
I would like to use my clone Pi Cam in future next year

Ok I read again you tested lot of thing like level shifter...

Maybe you should test Hyperion v1 not ng...
How do you connected the led, by soldering or using fast connector angle ??

Zitat von bigbossfr

I got some time last week end.
I changed the lib by this one that works with hyperion: https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED
I did some tests without hyperion, just with WLED. So from what I see, more I put some intensity, more I have flickering. Any idea?
When I set an intensity 20%, this is more stable. When I set something like 80% red, this is a little bit stable. When I set 80% white, this is flickering everywhere.

How far is your led from the NodeMCU ? Because maybe if you use too long câble it can cause supply issue or data connection issue. You need to have your led cables as short as possible from your PSU and NodeMCU.
Maybe your PSU is faulty ? But not sure because you know I tried Pi Cam as grabber like you but with WS2813. And I got flickering. Not pinkish flickering but intensity was bad like the camera could not grab the right color.
Maybe you need to fix the exposure/gain on your camera, try some search for settings Pi Cam on manual.
And sizedecimation is the factor the image is divided before used. For example you Pi Cam is set on 720p, if size décimation if 8 it will use 90p. If 2 then 360p and so the CPU will be highly used maybe 80/100%.

One thing I would like you to do is testing your setup just with a PC, NodeMCU and maybe the RPi but with Hyperion Screen Capture. I don’t know if you can use HSC with WiFi ? I use it with my RPi and Ethernet port... but there is no Ethernet on Pi0... if you can test just you led without the Pi Cam si maybe it’s not your PSU or your led that are faulty....

And maybe you need a level shifter with the nodeMCU as you use apa102c right ? Just search in this forum you will see someone having flickering with nodemcu and apa102. He solved it by using level shifter but I can’t help with that I’m a beginner...

Zitat von The

Thanks for the fisheye lens screengrab. It looks like I suspected. How close is the camera to the TV?

I don't quite follow your comment due to the double negative. I think you are meaning to say "it is a bad" idea. I agree with you that the trapezoid tool will not work. At this point, I think the fisheye could work (as long as hyperion is sampling the portion of the image within those little boxes)

I'd think a tool can be developed to use 4 bezier curves (one for each side of the TV) and another example getLUT() function . The center of each of the boxes could be plotted equidistant along the curve to represent the LED zones. Those bezier curves could be adjusted (by a human) to follow the warped edge of the TV. I'd even say that a user could straighten the 4 curves to simulate the trapzoid tool. Of course, there's time/effort involved in creating a tool, as those demos simply show how to draw bezier curves in a browser window.

$50USD is substantially cheaper the known-good working solution using $500+ worth of HDFury equipment.

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Sorry I wanted to say : it’s not a good idea. Because we don’t have any software like trapezoid hyperion tool. But if someone can do the same with a fisheye Capture, it could work !

It’s not my picture. I don’t know the distance between the camera and TV sorry !

i don't think fisheye is a good idea, it will look like this :

And you will not be able even if you use trapezoidal tool to configure your grabber

Zitat von giovanne

Sounds interesting, but the cam seems not that cheap ...
Maybe cheaper in china and we can give here a try...

I'm still using the ps3 eye cam

Still have my ps3 eye and Pi cam somewhere in a box, i will not use it until i buy a TV
Do you enjoy your setup ? No issue ? And by the way, did you change the exposure/gain or other setting of the PS3 eye ?

Hey

Sorry you right maybe it will not work for 4pin leds. Here a tutorial in French you can translate in English :
https://ambimod.jimdo.com/2017…iblioth%C3%A8que-fastled/

Maybe this can help...

Can you try to command The leds strip only with the NodeMCU ? With a PC and something like ambibox ou synlight to see if there are flickering without the RPi Zero ?

Here a tutorial again in French for SynLight

https://ambimod.jimdo.com/2017…-prismatik-et-les-autres/

Zitat von gogo789

I have search a lot of solution but it seams that to have accurate color in HDR, HDR10 and DolbyVision, the only way is actually the "HDFury Diva" but the problem is the price, 400-500€ :crying:

Maybe you can try the "camera grabber" solution instead of using splitter and lot of stuff. Just a Pi Cam or PS3 Eye. You can find people managed to make their amiblight system with a camera as a grabber

Zitat von bigbossfr

Another 74AHCT125?

Hi,

how did you config the ESP with arduino ? I had some flickering like you without the camera, and i have some idea for you.

I config the ESP with arduino using the Adalight-ESP8266.ino used by AmbiMod in his website.

You use LOLIN CH3 ESP? I needed to put 1 000 000 baudrate instead of 2 000 000 and put the exact number of LEDs

Tried to put in hyperion.json config the :

SMOOTHING CONFIG
"smoothing" :
{
"type" : "linear",
"time_ms" : 300,
"updateFrequency" : 30.0000,
"updateDelay" : 0

if time_ms is to low, this might cause flickering

What did you put at smooth ms and Hz?

I think I fixed it by putting :
frameDecimation" : 2,
"sizeDecimation": 2

You can try 1 and 1 but you can see CPU raspberry using almost 90%

Désolé je vois pas trop alors mais C’est peut-être une mauvaise configuration de Hyperion. Essaye de reprendre les tuto à zéro

Zitat von Akriss

Me to!
I went nuts trying to even out the blue (ws2812b), but gave up and settled for the overall bluish'ness.

With the APA102 the calibration was painless. Out of the box nearly perfect.

i prefer when white are little yellowish, because i think it's better for eye fatigue. On windows PC, i always put the night mode, same in my smartphone, it allows me to sleep easier.

Zitat von Akriss

Other then bad manufacturing I would think so.
I can't think of another reason a led in the middle of a strip to fail.

I should mention the strip with the most failures is a WS2812 strip and the other is a APA102 strip. It may be a factor as well.

i got the WS2813 one. I would like to buy the SK9822 but i'm fine with the WS2813. Just have to tweak the white balance because it was too bluish for me.

"leds" : "*",
"pureRed" :
{
"redChannel" : 255,
"greenChannel" : 0,
"blueChannel" : 0
},
"pureGreen" :
{
"redChannel" : 0,
"greenChannel" : 200,
"blueChannel" : 0
},
"pureBlue" :
{
"redChannel" : 0,
"greenChannel" : 0,
"blueChannel" : 150
}
}
],
"temperature" :
[
{
"id" : "default",
"leds" : "*",
"correctionValues" :
{
"red" : 255,
"green" : 255,
"blue" : 200
}

Zitat von Akriss

The space from the wall is generally about 4-7 inch's. And depending which way I angle the tv, one side will be on the wall and the other side very far. In both situations the cover has it's benefits. On the side very close to wall it diffuses the light. On the side that is far from the wall you obviously lose most of the reflective light. But if your coming from the other room you see the angled tv back side. And I like the look of a light tube over uncovered smd leds.

On a side note, the aluminum track may help with the longevity of the leds (better heat dissipation) One tv I setup with Hyperion did not use aluminum track. And I've had to replace a handful of leds on that setup. With the track, only one led went bad and it's been in service longer.

Not a big difference between having and not having. Its more for aesthetics for me I suppose.

edit: For reference the video of the mini setup is pushed up close to the wall. The big tv is about 5 inchs away from wall.

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thanks for your feedback ! I didn't think about the heat dissipation, is this the main issue causing dead LED ?
Probably in my next setup i will give a try but since i can move my screen, i think the result could be the same as with the aluminium track.

I don't see the led on the side, so there is no aesthetics reason for me

Zitat von Akriss

I do. And like them. More blended colors and no spot light effect.

https://hyperion-project.org/threads/upgraded-thanks.820/
https://hyperion-project.org/threads/mini-hyperion.1100/ :LOL:

Very nice !! How far is your TV from the wall ?
I can get nice diffused light without agressive spot when There are 6/7inch between wall and LEDs!

I prefer diffused light instead of spot which can cause headache !

And maybe can you tell me the before/after you added these leds support? Is there really a big difference ?

Hi,

i wonder if you use something opaque like this to help the light to be well diffused :

https://fr.aliexpress.com/item…97-49d2-8110-98fded626f89

bonjour,

dans ton fichier hyperion config, il faut peut-être inversé l'ordre dans la ligne RGB, tu peux essayer GRB ou BRG etC...

are you sure you have exactly 256 LEDS?

Try to put here 30 instead of 60:
"updateFrequency" : 60.0000,

Zitat von Crest57070

C'est ce que j'ai fait en remplaçant "pal" par "no-change" dans le code d'hyperion.config.json, ça permet de ne pas générer d'erreur 25 et de ne pas planter le programme, mais mon problème actuel c'est qu'avec ce code (je ne sais pas si c'est à cause de ce remplacement) hyperion met 40 minutes avant d'envoyer un Ambilight sur la télé. Pendant toute cette durée, les leds restent éteintes, alors que le terminal du Raspberry indique que le Gragger V4L2 est créé et a démarré.

Je précise également qu'il faut que je lance Hyperion par la ligne de commande "sudo hyperiond /etc/hyperion/hyperion.config.json" alors qu'il devrait démarrer dès que le Raspberry est sous tension. Il y a donc quelque chose qui retarde le lancement d'hyperion, mais je ne sais pas quoi?

Supprime complètement la ligne sans mettre no-change.
Sinon essaye de supprimer hyperion via Hypercon et de le réinstaller.

Est-ce que ça a déjà marché une fois ou jamais ??

Si oui le dernier recours serait de réinstaller l’OS sur ta carte SD. Tu as peut-être corrompu un fichier qu’il sera difficile de retrouver.

Tu as branché les leds sur un arduino ou sur le RPi?

Peut-être qu’uN fichier est mal configuré est créé une latence énorme ? Une fois lancée les couleurs correspondent à l’écran ?