Posts by Ppn

    Bonsoir,


    quand tu lances via HyperCon en cliquant sur "start" tu as l'espèce d'arc-en-ciel qui tourne avant d'avoir ce flickering ? Si oui, tu n'as pas de leds defectueuses, je pense plutôt à un problème, les cables data trop long, tu as testé ? Car ceux d'alimentation tu dis avoir essayer plus court mais les DI/DO sont assez court ?


    Sinon il faudra peut-être tester de brancher les leds sur un arduino d'abord ou un nodemcu puis relier au RPi. Pour ma part, j'ai les mêmes LEDs que toi, mais pour un écran 24 pouces et je passe par un nodeMCU lolin V3 à 2€ sur aliexpress et un RPi 2

    Ok guys, after months, I have finally something that works, stable, no flickering at all.
    So I use WLEB ( https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED ). @TPmodding, you should check it. It works well with Hyperion.
    What I did is that I soldered everything. When I did some tests, I was using some "fast connectors". It was working, but flickering. I took a breadboard, soldered a ESP32, some wire, etc etc... Everything is completely stable now, even with the 192 LEDS at 100% white using 11AMP.
    At the end I didn't use any level shifter. I have an ESP32 directly connected to the APA102 LEDs strips, driven by wifi by the camera of the Pi 0.


    Great ! So the issue was the fast connector and the solder fixed it maybe ?


    And the result with the Pi Cam as a grabber, are you satisfied ? Compared with hyperion screen capture for example ?
    I would like to use my clone Pi Cam in future next year

    I got some time last week end.
    I changed the lib by this one that works with hyperion: https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED
    I did some tests without hyperion, just with WLED. So from what I see, more I put some intensity, more I have flickering. Any idea?
    When I set an intensity 20%, this is more stable. When I set something like 80% red, this is a little bit stable. When I set 80% white, this is flickering everywhere.


    How far is your led from the NodeMCU ? Because maybe if you use too long câble it can cause supply issue or data connection issue. You need to have your led cables as short as possible from your PSU and NodeMCU.
    Maybe your PSU is faulty ? But not sure because you know I tried Pi Cam as grabber like you but with WS2813. And I got flickering. Not pinkish flickering but intensity was bad like the camera could not grab the right color.
    Maybe you need to fix the exposure/gain on your camera, try some search for settings Pi Cam on manual.
    And sizedecimation is the factor the image is divided before used. For example you Pi Cam is set on 720p, if size décimation if 8 it will use 90p. If 2 then 360p and so the CPU will be highly used maybe 80/100%.


    One thing I would like you to do is testing your setup just with a PC, NodeMCU and maybe the RPi but with Hyperion Screen Capture. I don’t know if you can use HSC with WiFi ? I use it with my RPi and Ethernet port... but there is no Ethernet on Pi0... if you can test just you led without the Pi Cam si maybe it’s not your PSU or your led that are faulty....


    And maybe you need a level shifter with the nodeMCU as you use apa102c right ? Just search in this forum you will see someone having flickering with nodemcu and apa102. He solved it by using level shifter but I can’t help with that I’m a beginner...


    Sorry I wanted to say : it’s not a good idea. Because we don’t have any software like trapezoid hyperion tool. But if someone can do the same with a fisheye Capture, it could work !


    It’s not my picture. I don’t know the distance between the camera and TV sorry !

    i don't think fisheye is a good idea, it will look like this :


    And you will not be able even if you use trapezoidal tool to configure your grabber


    Sounds interesting, but the cam seems not that cheap ...
    Maybe cheaper in china and we can give here a try...


    I'm still using the ps3 eye cam :)


    Still have my ps3 eye and Pi cam somewhere in a box, i will not use it until i buy a TV :D
    Do you enjoy your setup ? No issue ? And by the way, did you change the exposure/gain or other setting of the PS3 eye ?

    Hey


    Sorry you right maybe it will not work for 4pin leds. Here a tutorial in French you can translate in English :
    https://ambimod.jimdo.com/2017…iblioth%C3%A8que-fastled/


    Maybe this can help...


    Can you try to command The leds strip only with the NodeMCU ? With a PC and something like ambibox ou synlight to see if there are flickering without the RPi Zero ?


    Here a tutorial again in French for SynLight


    https://ambimod.jimdo.com/2017…-prismatik-et-les-autres/

    I have search a lot of solution but it seams that to have accurate color in HDR, HDR10 and DolbyVision, the only way is actually the "HDFury Diva" but the problem is the price, 400-500€ :crying:


    Maybe you can try the "camera grabber" solution instead of using splitter and lot of stuff. Just a Pi Cam or PS3 Eye. You can find people managed to make their amiblight system with a camera as a grabber

    Another 74AHCT125?


    Hi,


    how did you config the ESP with arduino ? I had some flickering like you without the camera, and i have some idea for you.


    I config the ESP with arduino using the Adalight-ESP8266.ino used by AmbiMod in his website.


    You use LOLIN CH3 ESP? I needed to put 1 000 000 baudrate instead of 2 000 000 and put the exact number of LEDs


    Tried to put in hyperion.json config the :


    SMOOTHING CONFIG
    "smoothing" :
    {
    "type" : "linear",
    "time_ms" : 300,
    "updateFrequency" : 30.0000,

    "updateDelay" : 0


    if time_ms is to low, this might cause flickering

    Désolé je vois pas trop alors mais C’est peut-être une mauvaise configuration de Hyperion. Essaye de reprendre les tuto à zéro

    Me to!
    I went nuts trying to even out the blue (ws2812b), but gave up and settled for the overall bluish'ness.


    With the APA102 the calibration was painless. Out of the box nearly perfect.


    i prefer when white are little yellowish, because i think it's better for eye fatigue. On windows PC, i always put the night mode, same in my smartphone, it allows me to sleep easier.

    Other then bad manufacturing I would think so.
    I can't think of another reason a led in the middle of a strip to fail.


    I should mention the strip with the most failures is a WS2812 strip and the other is a APA102 strip. It may be a factor as well.


    i got the WS2813 one. I would like to buy the SK9822 but i'm fine with the WS2813. Just have to tweak the white balance because it was too bluish for me.


    "leds" : "*",
    "pureRed" :
    {
    "redChannel" : 255,
    "greenChannel" : 0,
    "blueChannel" : 0
    },
    "pureGreen" :
    {
    "redChannel" : 0,
    "greenChannel" : 200,
    "blueChannel" : 0
    },
    "pureBlue" :
    {
    "redChannel" : 0,
    "greenChannel" : 0,
    "blueChannel" : 150
    }
    }
    ],
    "temperature" :
    [
    {
    "id" : "default",
    "leds" : "*",
    "correctionValues" :
    {
    "red" : 255,
    "green" : 255,
    "blue" : 200
    }


    thanks for your feedback ! I didn't think about the heat dissipation, is this the main issue causing dead LED ?
    Probably in my next setup i will give a try but since i can move my screen, i think the result could be the same as with the aluminium track.


    I don't see the led on the side, so there is no aesthetics reason for me


    Very nice !! How far is your TV from the wall ?
    I can get nice diffused light without agressive spot when There are 6/7inch between wall and LEDs!


    I prefer diffused light instead of spot which can cause headache !


    And maybe can you tell me the before/after you added these leds support? Is there really a big difference ?

    bonjour,


    dans ton fichier hyperion config, il faut peut-être inversé l'ordre dans la ligne RGB, tu peux essayer GRB ou BRG etC...

    C'est ce que j'ai fait en remplaçant "pal" par "no-change" dans le code d'hyperion.config.json, ça permet de ne pas générer d'erreur 25 et de ne pas planter le programme, mais mon problème actuel c'est qu'avec ce code (je ne sais pas si c'est à cause de ce remplacement) hyperion met 40 minutes avant d'envoyer un Ambilight sur la télé. Pendant toute cette durée, les leds restent éteintes, alors que le terminal du Raspberry indique que le Gragger V4L2 est créé et a démarré.


    Je précise également qu'il faut que je lance Hyperion par la ligne de commande "sudo hyperiond /etc/hyperion/hyperion.config.json" alors qu'il devrait démarrer dès que le Raspberry est sous tension. Il y a donc quelque chose qui retarde le lancement d'hyperion, mais je ne sais pas quoi?


    Supprime complètement la ligne sans mettre no-change.
    Sinon essaye de supprimer hyperion via Hypercon et de le réinstaller.


    Est-ce que ça a déjà marché une fois ou jamais ??


    Si oui le dernier recours serait de réinstaller l’OS sur ta carte SD. Tu as peut-être corrompu un fichier qu’il sera difficile de retrouver.


    Tu as branché les leds sur un arduino ou sur le RPi?


    Peut-être qu’uN fichier est mal configuré est créé une latence énorme ? Une fois lancée les couleurs correspondent à l’écran ?