Posts by matthew henry

    Im just really hoping this will allow me to throw away both utv007 and stk1160 30FPS capture devices and upgrade to something with USB 3.0 that is 60FPS. This is my dream and the only thing I don't currently like with my system.


    my assumption is that as long as the 3.0 capture device is V4L2 compatible that it should at least have some hope.......

    //#define serialRate 460800 // use 115200 for ftdi based boards
    #define serialRate 115200 // use 115200 for ftdi based boards



    try those


    still nothing, im wondering if the Rpi is not supplying enough power to the mega. Like I said earlier when I connect the usb cable to my laptop I get the arduino startup affect. When I connect the UNO to the RPI I get the arduino startup affect. Unfortunately when I connect the Mega to the RPI there is no startup affect.

    we have a mega sketch on github, may you can try this...
    https://github.com/hyperion-pr…ega_pwm/hyperion_mega.ino


    just tried


    sketch uploads just fine and I get the Arduino startup affect when plugged into the laptop. If I plug the successful sketch into the RPI I do not get the Arduino Startup effect which is strange. I checked the baudrate and I have it set to 500000 but it seems the RPI still wont even give the startup Arduino effect.

    Hey again sorry I have been sick the last few days so couldn't work on the project, but I have good news. Edited config.txt and got the uno today up and running, lights work! thanks so much for your help


    nice!!!! Yeah im not sure why it doesnt seem to be working correctly with the Mega. I wanted to use the mega because it had a little more memory. Either way glad you are up and running now.

    i would like to try this one


    https://auvidea.com/b101-hdmi-to-csi-2-bridge-15-pin-fpc/


    but as a student, i can not spend 70eur just for "testing"


    even with that piece I think the best you can do is 1080p at 30hz or 720p at 60.


    I personally think the best best is to find a different board that works with hyperion AND takes a usb 3.0 connection.


    There are a few usb 3.0 capture devices that are compatible with v4lc

    Sorry, what file is that argument in that I should edit, I just changed the Delay in hypercon to 500 saved the json and uploaded it


    https://hyperion-project.org/t…-ws2801-ws2812b-apa102.8/


    I wouldnt use that sketch though


    Code:
    Login: root
    Password: openelec


    - Mount the boot partition read/write:


    Code:
    mount -o remount,rw /flash
    - Open boot config:


    Code:
    nano -w /flash/config.txt
    Add the following line at the end and be careful not to adjust anything else:


    Code:
    #Increase UART speed
    init_uart_clock=14745600
    Press F2 to save and reboot your Raspberry.

    Can I ask what splitter you're using? My issue is that the direct HDMI grabber backfeeding causes my splitter to reset every 10 min, which in turn either pauses or restarts my fireTV, I believe because of some CEC signal or something. I do not have any issues with the HDMI2AV converter setup. It's only with this. I thought about trying an HDMI surge protector but I dont want to spend more money unless I hear of a similar setup/issue as mine.


    im using the ezcoo splitter. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078…TBDYN?_encoding=UTF8&th=1


    but I hear it doesnt work with HDR or Dolby Vision. Fortunately for me my TV doesnt have either

    Thanks. Is there a reason you went with openelec over osmc? Also, would you mind letting me know what guide you used to set yours up. Mines was almost good (I think) now nothing is responding. I want to start from scratch and see if I can get this working somehow. I had 276 LEDs. I'm thinking of using 274 and trying to atleast somewhat duplicate your results. I'm about ready to just buy a Dreamscreen and call it quits. I don't know if TPModder is a person or a group, but they may be stretch pretty thin, so any help from you would be appreciated. I'd hate to keep bugging him/them.


    I picked openelec because I have no need for a GUI. I havent used OSMC or Kodi in years. Either use titanium tv or tv zion . I also read that there was some type of issue with the hdmi cable needing to be plugged in for osmc to work. Bascially all my rpi is doing is controlling the lights. Im sure many people see this as a waste but Rpi's arent expensive at all.


    are you using ws2812 Led's ? My last system had apa-102's and the whole process was a lot easier BUT IMHO the WS2812's are easier to solder if needed.


    what isnt actually working. Can you get any response from your led's I technically have 300 LED's but have about 26 disabled.

    im using the same HDMI grabber and it works relatively well.


    • Nice to have less wires
    • Have to put it in PAL format for there not to be a large cropping issues. Either way I lose a little bit on the top :-(
    • I wish the refresh rate was better......... I wouldnt really mind buying something better but the options are limited with USB 2.0
    • Honestly the backfeed problem only bothered me while I was still working with my config because it would keep my arduino on. Now I just ignore it
    • Mine gets kind of warm but not hot at all so im not sure why people say it is too hot. maybe mine is different.....

    my code isnt perfect but hopefully this helps. What is actually happening?



    Yea its a bummer for sure... But I am very open to exploring ideas, if anyone more knowledgeable in this than myself have any to share!


    whats interesting is when I use a screen recorder program DRM protection still blacks out the video but if I rotate the screen there is about 1 second where I can see the video content. So there must be a leak somewhere.

    NEW power supply came in. I was running everything from 1 positive post and 1 negative post on the Switching power supply. I changed this to use both of the positive and negative posts and I upgraded the wiring to 18 gauge speaker wire.


    Unfortunately the "30 amp" power supply I purchased made the flicker much much worse.


    Fortunately once I plugged my other power supply in with the new connections the flicker is gone.

    This works well for any non-paid streaming service I am using. TV***N and Titainium **


    Even going over the network this setup might be faster than my current usb / hdmi card.


    FYI using shield tv. Also used OnePlus 3

    65" Spectre tv
    300 LED count but only using 274 (this has been modified in the led count on the sketch)
    5v 20 amps powered on both sides of the LED strip (5m Uncut)
    Arduino UNO r3 pin 6 for data and ground pin also used. Connected to RPI 3 VIA usb cable (baudrate set to 500000)
    RPI 3 connected to 5v with HDMI to USB capture card (decent...) (baudrate set to 500000) (OpenElec 7.0.1)
    eczoo 4k splitter coming from Shield tv



    Everything is working probably but my only issue is at full MAX brightness (all white) I get flickers going around everywhere. It can be pretty annoying.


    I thought a level shifter would be the key but it seems that the IO pins on the Arduino UNO are already 5V, So I dont think this would help. But I do have a level shifter if anyone has a suggestion.


    It could be my power supply, Its rated for 20 amps..... I ordered a 30amp which will be here Saturday just in case. Based On calculations it shouldnt be there in my opinon. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

    AAAAAND now it stopped altogether. No startup config, NOTHING. I don't know if this PSU could be an issue??


    I think it very well couldbe


    how do you have your LED's wired in regards to power? DO they have power going in from both sides?


    also


    276 WS2812B LEDS > 5V 10A PSU + DATA 10


    60mA * 276= 16,560mA @ Max brightness


    16.56 amps would be the MINIMUM for max brightness.