Beiträge von alieg

    One of the instances is disabled at startup anyway, I have deleted one of the instances but I know this isn't what it looks like when both are on at the same time. This was all working completely fine for ages up until now.


    This is what it looks like


    My suspicion is that the first LED is faulty somehow and the data is not getting passed down the line but I don't know how to tell how many - it's awkward as this is the end with the connector and I'd have to cut them off one by one, and solder to find out


    I have hooked up the wled board to the LEDs and they are all working normally on that :/


    I've reinstalled the OS and only loaded up the one instance and all it's doing is flashing the first LED.

    If I remove power from the LEDs, it crashes the Pi. I don't know if it's relevant, just info. Could it be something to do with the Pi as the LEDs appear to be fully working with WLED?

    The LED output of the 2 75 instances aren't on at the same time, this is happening when both are independently active.

    But still happening when each are fully off.


    No, the power was not turned off over the week, the power is always on to the pi and LEDs (independently) just the LED output is turned off when the TV is off, however it looks like the Pi crashed / shutdown at some point during this time.


    All LEDs are receiving power

    To explain my setup, 2 of the instances are using the same LEDs and get switched when the TV is turned (activated by a contact sensor), one config for when the TV is facing the living room (the default) "Hyperion" and the other for when the TV is facing the kitchen "TV Turned to Kitchen" - this is effectively to change the colour correction when the TV is turned as one side is closer to the wall.

    Both of these instances are affected because they are the same string of 75 LEDs connected to the Raspberry Pi


    The other "Hyperion Xmas Tree" is a WLED ESP32 board is working normally.


    I have a basic multimeter, Is there a way to identify where an LED may have failed?

    This was all working fine up until last week.

    I've got a shutdown button but I can't get it to work. It bridges pins 5 and 6 as per the tutorial here https://embeddedcomputing.com/…wn-with-a-physical-button

    I've added these lines into config.txt but nothing happens when I push the button.

    dtoverlay=gpio-shutdown

    active_low=1


    A bit of googling makes me suspect that this line is preventing these pins from being used to shutdown the pi

    dtoverlay=spi1-3cs


    When I first setup hyperion the default pins wouldn't work for me so I enabled spi1 and have the leds plugged into pins 20, 21 and the ground next to it.


    How can I get the button to work?


    I've also tried a different pair of pins but it still doesn't work.

    dtoverlay=gpio-shutdown,gpio_pin=13

    I’m trying to install the Hyperion integration on Home Assistant, however it fails with the error ‘Aborted: Failed to determine if authorization is required’




    I have the Hyperion app on my phone which connects to the same IP and port (19444) without any issue
    I have posted on the Home Assistant forum but wondered if anybody here has any insight?


    I have ssh keys enabled on the pi that is hosting Hyperion and the Home Assistant VM has a keypair - this is the only thing I can think of that may cause authentication issues, but this is not using SSH to connect and my phone app can connect without any authentication prompts

    Thank you all for the advice, I think I may have had a breakthrough on the software side!


    I was re-doing my colour corrections from scratch and it did not have any flickering on the solid colours until I got to the darker grey.
    I found adjusting the threshold to 0.3 and compensated by increasing the backlight to 0.45 (I like having a constant light) which seemed to eliminate it significantly.


    I believe there may be some conflict between the threshold and the backlight for what colour it wants to display per pixel.


    It will require a bit more testing to see if it I'm happy with the result without any further intervention but so far so good.
    Here is my updated config:


    I followed the No Soldering Tutorial so my basic setup is largely the same as that


    Multiple sources (Chromecast, Laptop, Nintendo Switch, PS4) into an automatic HDMI Switch ->
    Powered HDMI splitter ->
    TV and Powered HDMI to RCA converter ->
    Raspberry Pi 3 ->
    WS2801 LED strip connected to the Pi on GPIO pins for Ground, Data and Clock/Signal


    Everything has its own power supply with the 5v and ground connected (now at both ends), there's no additional resistors or capacitors. The strip sections are joined by corner connectors.

    I have found a partial solution to this issue by getting an on/off script to work as a button on my phone:


    Firstly I was having some issues with the script in the tutorial link so I altered it to use the same commands as the start and stop buttons in HyperCon.


    I used an app RaspController to send this as a custom command to the Pi,


    Bash
    #!/bin/sh
    SERVICE='hyperiond'
    if ps | grep -v grep | grep $SERVICE > /dev/null
    then
    killall hyperiond 2>/dev/null
    else
    /storage/.config/autostart.sh > /dev/null 2>&1 &
    fi


    I got an error when trying to use the code the tutorial suggests adding to the keymap to execute the command from the hyperionswitch.sh file


    Code
    system.exec("/storage/.kodi/userdata/hyperionswitch.sh")


    sh: syntax error: unexpected word (expecting ")")


    If I can figure this out I'm fairly confident that I could run it from a button press on the remote if I could find a suitable IR Receiver.


    The problem with using RaspController on its own is that it launches the ssh window from the custom command and from the widget (which also looks a little ugly to me and doesn't match in with my IFTTT button widgets) and requires another button press to exit out afterwards.


    I used the app Tasker to create a different style widget shortcut which runs the command from RaspController with nothing other than just a toast notification. I gave it an icon from a downloaded Raspberry Pi logo to match another Tasker shortcut on my home screen.

    I have some (noticeable to me) flickering particularly on the far side of my LED strip.


    I only have 76 LEDs but there was some yellowing on the far side when displaying white so I thought this might be a power issue. I bought some supplies to inject power and ground the far end of my LED strip, but after doing this the flickering is still present. The flickering seems more noticeable at the far side but maybe that's because that is more open to the room; the flickering is occurring on all sides.


    I tested the voltage and without power at both ends I was getting ~5V at the start and ~4.5V at the far end.


    Is there anything in the config that I could try adjusting?


    Is your TV connected to your home network? If so, could you try to ping your TV? Are there two different results when the device is switched off or switched on?


    No, the TV is pre-smart TV so isn't connected to the network at all by itself, the Chromecast is a Gen 2 model plugged into an HDMI port on the switch and is what we consume most of our media on which is why it is the default AV input.


    The TV is also an LG which I've been reading doesn't play so nice with HDMI-CEC - it will turn on the TV but wouldn't switch the AV automatically and doesn't implement deck controls. I would assume it doesn't send a message to tell other devices "Hey, I'm turning off now" either



    This is my config file: