Posts by theovlit

    I’ve had a working setup for a while now. Recently, I accidentally fried one of the LEDs, and it's stuck on green no matter what I try. I figured this is a good time to upgrade.


    I've been using 4-pin WS2801s, and they’ve served me well, but I’m looking for higher pixel density and proper white output. I was looking at the LED pin post and the SK6812 144 LEDs seem like the right direction, though I'm not completely sure. They only have 3 pins, which I thought was a drawback. I'm also undecided on which white variant to choose: cool, natural, or warm.


    I'm currently getting some ringing, so I was planning to add a 330-ohm resistor to the new strip. I'm just not sure if that still applies with the SK6812s.


    One more thing, mounting preference. Right now, the LEDs are attached to the back of the TV, mostly parallel with the wall. Would it be better to angle them at 90 degrees so the light shines outward instead of bouncing off the wall?

    I wanted to share some info for anyone searching for an HDMI grabber. Mine recently stopped working, so I had to replace it. I initially planned to repurchase the same model, but it was unavailable, so I looked for an alternative.

    During my search, I discovered something important: you should aim for an HDMI grabber with MJPEG support instead of YUV/YUY. According to discussions on GitHub, MJPEG is compressed, which isn’t an issue for Hyperion and is actually better. On the other hand, YUV is uncompressed, causing a significant delay. While YUV works, there’s a noticeable lag between the screen and the LEDs. If you’re not watching the LEDs closely, it might not bother you, but with MJPEG, the delay is only about 50ms, making it feel almost instant.


    You can find more details in the hardware section of the Hyperion forum:

    Splitter/Matrix/Grabber Overview Post.


    Based on the recommendations there, I went with the Macrosilicon MS2130, and it’s been great so far.

    Macrosilicon MS2130 on Amazon:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQ7F2KMC?tag=hyperioforum-21&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title


    Link to GitHub:
    Hyperbian support for HDMI direct input module based on tc358743 on RPI 3/4/zero #1140

    Are you running a physical hue bridge or software? I have a few downs I was using but couldn't get them to turn off during black scenes. That's why I ended up swapping to the yee lights.

    I'm curious about what kind of light bulbs everyone is using with their Hyperion setups. How are you connecting them, and what has your experience been like? Is anyone connecting bulbs directly to their Hyperion system using deCONZ or similar methods? If so, how do they perform?


    I’m currently using (Yeelight) Yeelink Light ColorB WiFi bulbs. They work pretty well overall, with good responsiveness and accurate color reproduction. However, in dark scenes, they sometimes turn green instead of switching off, and occasionally they become unresponsive and need a reset.

    Thank you. I whitelisted it....

    glad I could help. It's the least I can do after all the help you've given me.


    Recap for anyone having the same issue.


    1. If you're having problems, try the nightly.
    2. Disable "Switch-off, below minimum". They won't be perfect, but they will at least stay connected and work. Mine turns blue instead, but they work. I have to enter the interface and enable the led device from the dashboard sometimes.
    3. Check the whitelist here before purchase to make sure your hardware is compatible.
    4. Here is the whitelist for the stable master branch
    5. These bulbs are confirmed to work

    Good Luck!

    In case your Wifi is not stable, you might run in the same issues (but that could be with other brands too).

    I should have solid wifi. They are defending definitely not out of range. I'll do some local testing to see if I'm having any issues with it. I should probably hardware my Pi too.

    You might want trying to disable "Switch-off, below minimum" just to see, if that stabilizes.

    I'll give that a shot and let you know.


    Edit: So I've switched this off. The lights seem to be connected without issue for the moment, however, in low light or black screens, the lights turn blue. This is what I was trying to remedy by moving away from the Hue Lights, except Hue turned green. I'm going to run these settings for a bit just to make sure they don't disconnect and have any network issues, but uniformly this will not work for me as when the screen goes black I want my lights to turn off too. I feel it pulls me out of the immersion if the lights stay one when the backlights turn off. If you have any recommendations I'd love to hear them or if the S1 doesn't do this id switch to them.


    Thanks again for all your help with this. I really appreciate it.


    Edit: To add the W3 model to the whitelist, could you do me a favour and share with me how it reports itself?

    They are the colorb model

    If Yeelights work, please ping me that I can check with you how they report themselves and I can whitelist the model.

    Hey, I wasn't able to get the current W3 bulbs to work. So, I think I'm going to try an S1 but wanted to touch base with you before purchasing. After looking at the supported list and the associated Home Assistant site for information I think I found the correct one. it looks like the S1 is a color4. I was hoping you could take a look and confirm for me that this is in fact the correct bulb and it will work as intended without the issues I have with the W3s.



    https://us.yeelight.com/shop/y…-led-light-bulb-1s-color/

    Can I ask why you are trying to run lights in a different room?


    It sounds like you've narrowed it down to signal degradation on your data line. I think there might be a couple different solutions / methods to get around this depending on your use case.


    The first thing that comes to mind would be a signal repeater, but I'd honestly have no idea how to go about getting that or making one. I'm sure someone smarter than both of us could weigh in on that topic. Maybe do a little bit of research on W2812B long distance data signal strengthening or something along those lines.


    The next idea would be to use wled or spinning up a second instance of Hyperion closer to your physical LED strips where you can send the data from your first instance to your second instance over the network. I've never had to do this but if I'm understanding correctly that's what the Bob light service is for. Again maybe someone can weigh in with a little bit more knowledge on this topic.


    Hope this helps get some ideas brewing for you.

    It was working fine all day; 8 hours with no issues, then they just stopped. Running into the same issues as before... They seem to be stuck in music flow. Looks like I'll just have to try one of the suppressed modules.


    I'm not sure if this is relevant, but the nightly web IU is super slow and the whole system crashed once on me. I expect it to be unstable due to what it is but just wanted to inform you about it.


    I've attached a log file if you want to take a look at it, but at this point, I don't think the hardware I have works with the system.


    Hyperion log 8322.txt

    The nightly build of today includes the fix for SPI. Would you mind testing it again?

    Sure thing. I just tried to run the update command via ssh but it didn't update so ill just reflash the card and start over.


    Nope, not working yet. They are in the selector but don't function. I've attached two screenshots and a log file. I haven't tested the yeelights yet with these builds as if the SPI doesn't work there is no point lol


    Hyperion log 7322.txt

    Fantastic! Thank you! If i can't get it working with what I have, I'll look into getting supported hardware.

    You can use the nightly builds to test, if it works for you.

    One last question. I've installed with HyperBian. How would I go about getting the nightly build? Can I update to the beta or alpha channel or will I need to do something more involved; Like compile it myself or do a fresh install over Raspbian lite? If it's one of the former, could you point me in the direction of what I'll need to do so?

    Hello, I just got my Yeelights in today. I wanted to test them out as my Hues were having issues with low light scenes and turning green. I have the lights connected to my network, with revered IPs so they won't change, and everything works great in the app. The first issue I encountered was when setting them up; The wizard didn't work correctly. It would find the lights and the "identify" button worked, but it would not let me select any location settings. That was fine, I was going to manually edit the settings anyways. So I proceeded to add the lights manually and it worked for a bit. Success! They went dark the way I wanted them to, just needed to tune a few things. Got it the way I wanted and started playing content. Not too long after I noticed one of the lights was unresponsive. I power cycled the light, didn't help. Removed the lights and set them back up. Now neither of them work. I've rebooted, check that they are still connected to the network, they are. Checked that the app can still control them, it can. The app states they are in Music Flow. I assume that's what Hyperion uses to control them, like how Hue uses entertainment mode. When I toggle the LED Output from the dashboard it just reverts back to off. Below I have attached my log. Please let me know if there is any more information you need and thank you for the help!


    Hyperion.NG Log.txt

    I too have the issue where dark gray is green and flickering. Unfortunately I don't have a solution for you.


    However, I have a feeling your CEC, ARC, and game lag are most likely caused by your splitter. I run a HDFury Diva and couldn't be happier. Bit pricey, but you get what you pay for.


    Let me know if your Wisofox resolved your dark gray/green issue.