Posts by IKnowCodeSoup

Spent some time making this one.

USB driverless IR touch panel
Switchable USB hub for maintenance on the Pi (the other button).

Controlled entirely from my phone via Samsung Dex.

Happy Pi day!!

It's definitely not the switch? Tried swapping outputs and still the lights work but the Apple TV does not?

There is what's called EDID. Exactly as you say the devices negotiate the resolution.
It's common for HDMI devices (switches and the like) to not change once set.

Perhaps the adapter is defaulting to 1080 when no signal is present.?

I was thinking the adapter had a res selector but it's only NTSC / PAL. Have been dealing with a HDMI resolution nightmare for weeks...

The only solution I've found that works is using a scaler (for instance when needing 4k output to the TV and 1080 to the adapter). Otherwise the maximum resolution that all devices support should be the one that's selected. In your case, it's odd that 720 is not being selected.

The receiver is set to 720 output manually?

Awesome. Good to know about those connectors. Haven't used them but will steer clear of them now.

Running wires works well but it's a fair bit messy. Not something you want to get snagged on something and start a fire by grounding out.

My go-to solution these days is to cut the 5v line of the whole strip somewhere in the middle (don't solder a corner if running a full set, or cut the very middle of the top strip when running power from the gap at the bottom if you have one).

Then, no wires to run. Just put a capacitor on each half. You can run rather small ones, but I enjoy overkill so I put a 1000uF on each.

Having a hard time remembering, but I believe that I had this issue when power was not connected to the HDMI to RCA adapter.

My receiver has dual HDMI outputs and when one was disconnected it would flash both outputs black and then come back on.
It was a brief enough moment that the lights never seemed to stop working, but enough to make the receiver lose it's mind.

I think either something wasn't connected to power, a loose cord or perhaps a bad one somewhere. Wish I could remember :unsure:

My 2812 strips are GRB (I think) instead of RGB. Have that set?
May not be the issue, but if you've only tested full white so far.?

Other than that calibration should take it out by reducing red power.
Not all strips are created equal. How red are they?
https://hyperion-project.org/wiki/Color-Calibration

A few things to check:

• Pi and PSU grounds connected?
• If using frame grabber, good signal? Try w/o grabber connected?
• Level-shifter wired / grounded correctly? Running power wires on top of it? It can be super sensitive to EMI.
• Other than that perhaps one bad connection somewhere. A good check with a multi-meter might be in order.

Just wanted to add, if anyone else experiences issues and that setting does not solve it (and something to double-check first) is that you're using the right gauge wires. Especially when hooking the frame grabber directly to the Pi instead of a powered hub.

Ran into this issue a week or so ago where the last bit of wire was inadequate for the amperage. All other projects I had used a powered hub and it took me quite a while to diagnose the issue.

Glad to read this, however, as I am partial to the 281x and did not know of that setting. Thanks!

Great job!

Is there any known defect or issue with detection? I had upgraded my setup (which was working) for the first time in over a year and now I get none at all.

Regardless of threshold, it still does not work.

[EDIT]
Didn't realize that the 'Local Config Path' button was to set the local config path. Had thought it was the folder that the app ran from. Had it set to my download folder before moving everything to a contained folder. Haven't fully tested it yet but counting on that working (with some detection setting tweaks).

These videos are terribly blown out as I shot them in a hurry on a cell cam. Obviously anyone who has done this knows it looks way better in person.

The visualizer running through the gimmicky 3D converter on my TV is actually kinda nice. Too bad 3D is a dead medium. Fun when showing it to new people though.

The whole thing bolts to either the vesa mount holes (when stand mounted) or to the wall mount brackets.

I've made a few design changes since these initial pics but haven't bothered to take more.

• Added additional braces partly visible in the last pic for stability when moved or grabbed accidently (to prevent twisting).
• Removed the supplemental power wires (red) as dual caps are sufficient - using a dual 10A power supply split between half of the lights on each one.
• Used the adhesive tape on the lights and stuck them to the wood (visible in the pictures are tiny velco strips) - as it was thought the glue wouldn't last long - or so that I could dismantle it all without bothering with glue.

Things I would do differently:

• NOT make a hinge design.
  
  
  • It was primarily built with the idea that I would have my TV stand mounted and wall mounted at times - as I've done over the years of moving between places.
  • The perfect angle is between 30-40 degrees, and flat against the wall or 6-12in out doesn't make much of a difference.
• Use a simpler logic board, Pi Zero or similar.

Agreed. Seems like a waste of a chip and it's mali gpu. PIs are much better suited.