Posts by TheCoolDave

    Just my 0.02 here... I might suggest getting a dedicated capture device and get rid of the 3RCA device as said above.. With HDMI and with 4K, there is a thing called EDID, this reports back to the device saying what they MAX it will support, lowest always wins here.

    EDID is a HDMI standard, it talks to the device and asks, WHAT DO YOU SUPPORT ? And the TV/display device (your capture device), will report 1080p (lowest always wins), even though one part will support 4K. Your 4K tv will display it at 1080p because your capture device will only support up to 1080p.

    When you connect a few things to process video, you possibly add lag, a slight delay to the LEDs when the video shows on the screen.

    I went on amazon, looked for a 4K capture device, found one for like $40, it worked perfectly and it's what I am using. This capture device will capture @ 4K @ 60 but, will only output 1080P, this will help you.

    I ran into this problem, my Xbox Series X was only playing at 1080p because of my capture device, upgraded to one that will do up to 4K @ 60hz, all is happy...

    I use a 3b, it's one I have had for a while now. I picked it up JUST for this project. After this tweak of running another ground, it seems no flickering now. I just wish I could get the LAG down to 0... It's there, minor but, it's there.

    Yea, I could lower it to 640 by 480 to minimize it but, I want detail if possible, so I run a little lower 720P on it @ 60fps, Would a PI 4 allow for like 1080p detail(I'm sure a true 720P would be enough for reasonable detail) and No lag ?

    Or is there another trick to this, tried all the baudrate / software / hardware as listed in this thread alone....

    Does the newest version help with this ? I have not upgraded yet but, was planning to..

    My capture device does up to 4K @ 60hz, I want one that is lagless and supports up to 4k @ 120hz...

    So, I have been troubleshooting this issue for quite a while, if I drop down to 50% or so, it does not flash any more but, it's to low unless the room is pitch black.

    This weekend I wanted to try some things. The PI is connected via the 30a 5v power supply. On the PI I ran 2 more ground cables and this resulted in no change.

    I took a longer cable, soldered it to the middle ground on LEDs (so, ground at start, even and middle) and that fixed it.

    Changed to 100% brightness, not a single flicker...and lag is very little if any so it's working perfect now.

    Still some minor other issues but, over all working great now...


    My Hyperion system has been working fairly good over all for a while. When I turn the system on, it's just a switch and turns on the PI that turns on the system. I have some blinking AGAIN, on bright images so I wanted to check it out.

    Well, the Webgui no longer works. I checked my DHCP server, verified the IP address, I can ping it, I can SSH to it with no problem, open a browser and "Hmmm… can't reach this page" comes up...Try in firefox "Firefox can’t establish a connection to the server at XX.XX.XX.XX"

    Any idea or should I try repair the install ?

    Hi all,

    Still been playing with this. So I got as new capture device and after a while the LEDs would go off after my screen flashing/resyncing. We'll long story short, I just added the PI power supply back, and all is resolved. I really wanted to have 1 power supply for this whole thing but, it's not really working like I want. I think my capture device just needs a little more power.

    I got the LAG almost to nothing, very, very, very minor, and happy about that but, flickering still happens. If I take the brightness down to 60% it's only when the brightest image is on you can see very, very slight flickering (it's almost gone here) but, 60% is too low.

    I find at 75-80% brightness it looks good and is bright enough but, flickering on bright images can get pretty bad at times.

    I checked voltages. While running the LEDs with CN on (normally very bright images), I was seeing between 5.00v and 4.99v. I adjusted just a little, at idle it will be 5.004v, but, with a load, it's 5.00v solid, even on bright images.

    I have 1 ground to the PI but, it's solid right to the power supply. Any other things I can try here ? It's almost there but, this flickering need to stop and having fairly bright would be nice.

    Flickering could be a sign for unstable 5 Volts from the power supply. If you have a adjustable PS, make sure that stable 5V coming from the output.

    Back the thread, my voltage was higher, like 5.09v, with some trial and error, I got it to exactly 5v.

    I tested this many times though out the process...

    It's why I question it. 80% is fine but, just in case I want more range I would love to figure it out.

    So, for today, a holiday weekend, raining all weekend... sigh. So I deiced to work this. I got rid of the UNO, and just went with the PI on GPIO 18. Re-followed Dr.Z's video just for reminder things. I did grab a new HDMI capture device, one that was rated pretty good from others here.

    With dropping the resolution down to 720 X 480, the lag is very little but, still there. A lot less than I could get with the UNO.

    Had to drop the brightness down to 80% or red images (or any very bright color) would be a flicker/flashing fest. I am wondering why I need to do this ? I got a 5v 30a power supply, way over powered for what I actually need. Is the flicker due to power issues AKA lack of power ?

    I used to have a 5v 10a PS doing this before (same amount of LEDs, with the old JAVA based Hyperion app), never a single flicker. I figured bigger supply would give better results... I guess not.

    I'll have to play with it for a little bit but, looking good so far...

    I made a crap ton of changes without documenting, but I think a full system reset fixed that. If any of my issues return or if I figure out what I changed, I'll def let you know


    It might be time to rebuilt it. I am thinking about completely getting rid of the UNO, the LAG was bad but, compared to the issues I have had with the UNO, I am hoping I can tweak it better. The logic here is, less devices means less possible lag.

    I am looking to have this as solid option but, so far it does not work right and what is the point of having a system like this that does always work right when you need it?

    OK, let me set things up and I will try to adjust this again.

    Maybe this will help with lag a little as well as the lights just randomly shutting off...

    I was following YouTube videos... and 2 of the videos that setup with the UNO say to use 500,000

    I'll give anything a shot if it works...

    Sorry on the delay on the reply, I kind of put this to side due to other projects, I really want this working perfectly...I've been not using it because of the issues. STILL a little laggy too... noticeable as well.

    My Baud settings are 500000

    I am thinking about just getting rid of the UNO and got back to the GPO-18 port again, no errors in lights just randomly shutting off, just very laggy and if that can tweaked.

    Could my capture device be adding the lag ? If so, is there another one that can deal with 4K 60 and HDR/HDR 10 that does not break the bank open ?

    SO, site was down for upgrades the other so, didn't get to reply to this.

    I adjusted the voltage that was at 5.09v, after a bunch of adjusting, I got it to EXACTLY 5.00v

    After dropping the brightness, the flickering appears to be gone(bright red does not flicker at all) but, the BIGGEST issue now. The light still randomly shut off.

    We are watching a video, lights are on, something on screen changes, the lights all go off, nothing, then a few seconds later, the screen changes, and now we lights on. This actually some times causes flickering on all LEDS(they are going on and off).

    This did not happen when I was connected to GPIO-18.. ONLY when I am using the UNO... but, connecting to GPIO-18's lag was soo bad.

    Any ideas on this one ?

    I guess it depends on what kind of hardware you already have and what quality you expect. Especially HDR is hard since it can seemingly only be done with HDFury hardware. But there are affordable options to get most of it working.

    I am using a 50 euro HDMI grabber (might be even cheaper on Ali) + ~30 euros worth of LEDS+WLED+Power. Already had a Raspberry Pi 4 (running Home Assistant for automation next to HyperHDR). This works with 4k 60hz content and HDR is passed to my LG OLED TV as well (no Dolby Vision though). HyperHDR "converts" any HDR signal to SDR so Ambilight has brighter/more accurate colors. All content I play on my Nvidia Shield works with Ambilight, including Netflix, Prime, Disney+.

    It's what I am looking for/dealing with. I get 40K 60hz no problem but, when HDR comes in, it all goes black.

    Anyone know of a current, fairly cheap, device that deals with HDR, HDR10 etc ?

    yeah i don't think power to your LEDS is your problem, Id be tempted to pull that 5.1v at the PSU down to 4.8v-4.9v just to see if that helps any but in all honesty i'm running out of ideas mate

    I'll strip the power supply bear, get some good connectors for my meter and set it to 4.9 - 5.0

    Too late tonight to deal with it

    use the Hyperion app mate or the webui and set it to solid red, testing it the way i mentioned above only using the signal wire should show nearly 0 volts mate, if your doing it as mentioned and you are seeing 4-5v then there is a problem.

    Oh, you want me to test the SIGNAL wire, I was only testing the + and - across the LEDs and the PS...

    The Data wire (greeen ?) show s 0.00 among different spots testing...

    no idea dave, wont do any harm tho just to make sure there are no connection issues as something is clearly happening somewhere when they are cranked right up

    This is with brightness @ 90% (where there was no flickering)

    So, I took my meter, put it in DC mode, connected to power supply + and - , and it gives me a 5.09v will going over a little cause a problem ?

    Spot checking LEDs with the meter set at 0.000 on the corner that is the farthest away from the power connector shows 4.98v

    Checking any closer will show a 5.04 or something in that range.

    I will re-test and edit this after I get a full red image up. Problem is, the image on the video only shows for 2-3 seconds... This is again, with 90% brightness.

    Ok, so I ran one of the test videos that showed full red as with other colors. On the farthest corner it was ranging (depending on the color) from 3.9 to 4.2v while while the LEDs were in use. Closer (same spot as before would show 4.3 to 4.7v while playing.

    Next test: boost brightness to 100% and try again...

    While at 100%, checking in the corner that is farthest away from the PS connection showed a little lower but, not much, 3.9 to 4.6v., as the closer one show the same, 4.3 to 4.7v.

    Both of these were during the flashing... so not a major change.

    I think I would expect to see the farthest corner have a little lower voltage but, it was not that bad. LEDs seems fine.

    Still wondering what the heck is going on. Would a power supply a little higher cause this type issue ?