Posts by TheCoolDave


    My Hyperion system has been working fairly good over all for a while. When I turn the system on, it's just a switch and turns on the PI that turns on the system. I have some blinking AGAIN, on bright images so I wanted to check it out.

    Well, the Webgui no longer works. I checked my DHCP server, verified the IP address, I can ping it, I can SSH to it with no problem, open a browser and "Hmmm… can't reach this page" comes up...Try in firefox "Firefox can’t establish a connection to the server at XX.XX.XX.XX"

    Any idea or should I try repair the install ?

    Hi all,

    Still been playing with this. So I got as new capture device and after a while the LEDs would go off after my screen flashing/resyncing. We'll long story short, I just added the PI power supply back, and all is resolved. I really wanted to have 1 power supply for this whole thing but, it's not really working like I want. I think my capture device just needs a little more power.

    I got the LAG almost to nothing, very, very, very minor, and happy about that but, flickering still happens. If I take the brightness down to 60% it's only when the brightest image is on you can see very, very slight flickering (it's almost gone here) but, 60% is too low.

    I find at 75-80% brightness it looks good and is bright enough but, flickering on bright images can get pretty bad at times.

    I checked voltages. While running the LEDs with CN on (normally very bright images), I was seeing between 5.00v and 4.99v. I adjusted just a little, at idle it will be 5.004v, but, with a load, it's 5.00v solid, even on bright images.

    I have 1 ground to the PI but, it's solid right to the power supply. Any other things I can try here ? It's almost there but, this flickering need to stop and having fairly bright would be nice.

    Flickering could be a sign for unstable 5 Volts from the power supply. If you have a adjustable PS, make sure that stable 5V coming from the output.

    Back the thread, my voltage was higher, like 5.09v, with some trial and error, I got it to exactly 5v.

    I tested this many times though out the process...

    It's why I question it. 80% is fine but, just in case I want more range I would love to figure it out.

    So, for today, a holiday weekend, raining all weekend... sigh. So I deiced to work this. I got rid of the UNO, and just went with the PI on GPIO 18. Re-followed Dr.Z's video just for reminder things. I did grab a new HDMI capture device, one that was rated pretty good from others here.

    With dropping the resolution down to 720 X 480, the lag is very little but, still there. A lot less than I could get with the UNO.

    Had to drop the brightness down to 80% or red images (or any very bright color) would be a flicker/flashing fest. I am wondering why I need to do this ? I got a 5v 30a power supply, way over powered for what I actually need. Is the flicker due to power issues AKA lack of power ?

    I used to have a 5v 10a PS doing this before (same amount of LEDs, with the old JAVA based Hyperion app), never a single flicker. I figured bigger supply would give better results... I guess not.

    I'll have to play with it for a little bit but, looking good so far...

    I made a crap ton of changes without documenting, but I think a full system reset fixed that. If any of my issues return or if I figure out what I changed, I'll def let you know


    It might be time to rebuilt it. I am thinking about completely getting rid of the UNO, the LAG was bad but, compared to the issues I have had with the UNO, I am hoping I can tweak it better. The logic here is, less devices means less possible lag.

    I am looking to have this as solid option but, so far it does not work right and what is the point of having a system like this that does always work right when you need it?

    OK, let me set things up and I will try to adjust this again.

    Maybe this will help with lag a little as well as the lights just randomly shutting off...

    I was following YouTube videos... and 2 of the videos that setup with the UNO say to use 500,000

    I'll give anything a shot if it works...

    Sorry on the delay on the reply, I kind of put this to side due to other projects, I really want this working perfectly...I've been not using it because of the issues. STILL a little laggy too... noticeable as well.

    My Baud settings are 500000

    I am thinking about just getting rid of the UNO and got back to the GPO-18 port again, no errors in lights just randomly shutting off, just very laggy and if that can tweaked.

    Could my capture device be adding the lag ? If so, is there another one that can deal with 4K 60 and HDR/HDR 10 that does not break the bank open ?

    SO, site was down for upgrades the other so, didn't get to reply to this.

    I adjusted the voltage that was at 5.09v, after a bunch of adjusting, I got it to EXACTLY 5.00v

    After dropping the brightness, the flickering appears to be gone(bright red does not flicker at all) but, the BIGGEST issue now. The light still randomly shut off.

    We are watching a video, lights are on, something on screen changes, the lights all go off, nothing, then a few seconds later, the screen changes, and now we lights on. This actually some times causes flickering on all LEDS(they are going on and off).

    This did not happen when I was connected to GPIO-18.. ONLY when I am using the UNO... but, connecting to GPIO-18's lag was soo bad.

    Any ideas on this one ?

    I guess it depends on what kind of hardware you already have and what quality you expect. Especially HDR is hard since it can seemingly only be done with HDFury hardware. But there are affordable options to get most of it working.

    I am using a 50 euro HDMI grabber (might be even cheaper on Ali) + ~30 euros worth of LEDS+WLED+Power. Already had a Raspberry Pi 4 (running Home Assistant for automation next to HyperHDR). This works with 4k 60hz content and HDR is passed to my LG OLED TV as well (no Dolby Vision though). HyperHDR "converts" any HDR signal to SDR so Ambilight has brighter/more accurate colors. All content I play on my Nvidia Shield works with Ambilight, including Netflix, Prime, Disney+.

    It's what I am looking for/dealing with. I get 40K 60hz no problem but, when HDR comes in, it all goes black.

    Anyone know of a current, fairly cheap, device that deals with HDR, HDR10 etc ?

    yeah i don't think power to your LEDS is your problem, Id be tempted to pull that 5.1v at the PSU down to 4.8v-4.9v just to see if that helps any but in all honesty i'm running out of ideas mate

    I'll strip the power supply bear, get some good connectors for my meter and set it to 4.9 - 5.0

    Too late tonight to deal with it

    use the Hyperion app mate or the webui and set it to solid red, testing it the way i mentioned above only using the signal wire should show nearly 0 volts mate, if your doing it as mentioned and you are seeing 4-5v then there is a problem.

    Oh, you want me to test the SIGNAL wire, I was only testing the + and - across the LEDs and the PS...

    The Data wire (greeen ?) show s 0.00 among different spots testing...

    no idea dave, wont do any harm tho just to make sure there are no connection issues as something is clearly happening somewhere when they are cranked right up

    This is with brightness @ 90% (where there was no flickering)

    So, I took my meter, put it in DC mode, connected to power supply + and - , and it gives me a 5.09v will going over a little cause a problem ?

    Spot checking LEDs with the meter set at 0.000 on the corner that is the farthest away from the power connector shows 4.98v

    Checking any closer will show a 5.04 or something in that range.

    I will re-test and edit this after I get a full red image up. Problem is, the image on the video only shows for 2-3 seconds... This is again, with 90% brightness.

    Ok, so I ran one of the test videos that showed full red as with other colors. On the farthest corner it was ranging (depending on the color) from 3.9 to 4.2v while while the LEDs were in use. Closer (same spot as before would show 4.3 to 4.7v while playing.

    Next test: boost brightness to 100% and try again...

    While at 100%, checking in the corner that is farthest away from the PS connection showed a little lower but, not much, 3.9 to 4.6v., as the closer one show the same, 4.3 to 4.7v.

    Both of these were during the flashing... so not a major change.

    I think I would expect to see the farthest corner have a little lower voltage but, it was not that bad. LEDs seems fine.

    Still wondering what the heck is going on. Would a power supply a little higher cause this type issue ?

    it does sound power related, I ran mine from an old 2.5A phone charger and they worked fine - Turns out they do not draw anything higher than 2.1A....

    I am running the PI and the LEDS off the 30a power supply, I did try to use the OEM PI power supply (I did order it when I got the PI), in case of a lack of enough power, this made no change.

    The wiring on the LEDs are perfect(no other way to put it here, I know my last set what good but, not perfect), corners were using the no solder connectors and I even soldered them. Power goes in both sides with with steady voltage all around, checked every point with a voltmeter. This was all setup, soldered, everything OFF the TV, the last one I did was on the TV(what a PIA) This was my primary double check when was seeing LAG using GPIO-18. I've gone through this many times, just to be sure.

    I'll check the power supply tonight. Maybe the power supply is a little low ? I know there is an adjustment on it. I guess that is the next step.. If it's outputting a little lower voltage it would cause these problems.

    Do you think the random shutting off is due to power or timing ?

    well on my ws2812b setup Red is my biggest consumer of power if thats any help, but yeah that is strange what it is doing in the vids.

    few things tho, if you decrease the overall brightness down does the flicker still happen on the red screen.

    Have you tried a fresh flash on another SD card?

    Thanks for the idea..

    OK, Played with brightness for a bit, jumped to 60%, 80%, 90%, 91%, 93%, 95% and 99%....

    Dropped to 90% after all, the flashing has appeared to go away and it still is plenty bright (YEA !!!) over 95% it comes back

    The question remands here, I had a 5v 10a power supply running all these, never a problem with it, I NOW have a 5v 30a power supply, should I be dealing with power issues on the LEDs ? As ground and 5v go directly to the LEDs from the 30a supply....I got a larger supply so I didn't need to deal with issues like this.

    I still get points where the LEDs just shut off, and when the screen changes (like another view) they come back on.

    If you watch the videos I posted again, you can see it on the bottom left of the video where it's clearest. Light will be going around and it gets to that corner and all the lights go off, this could happen for split second, or I have seen it as long as 2 seconds... Light should be going and nothing.

    Lowering brightness did no change here. Any idea on that one ? Should/could a screen/LED refresh rate be boosted up a little here so it might not do this ?

    The SD card is brand new SanDisk (100mb/s rated) 16gb card. I ordered it just for this project as I could not leave a 64gb or 128gb one for just this project as the PI will only be used for this. During testing this was rebuilt a few times. I did try it on the other card (64gb as well, no change)

    Ok, power cord searches to test to see if adding power to the UNO R3 helps with this flashing... Seeing that the UNO can use anything from a 7-12v as long as it's a center positive. Found a few that would fit. Nothing helped...

    here is what I tried

    1. DC 12v 0.3a
    2. DC 12v 1a
    3. DC 12v 1.5a (1.5a to 3.25a)

    Not of these had any change at all. I'm thinking about trashing the UNO but, is there a sure way to get rid of all lag ?

    Or does anyone have an idea, or have seen this before ?

    Here is 2 videos I took so you can get an idea on what is going on here(I'll take them down in a few days)...!AmHdwDuUvhmjg_VBvvvu1ZQ5l2f5Qg?e=DgXOMy!AmHdwDuUvhmjg_VCIoppG2nZ6lfUKg?e=OZYQ4n

    If you watch carefully you will see at some points the lights just stop working for a second or 2, This happens when watching videos as well. On a full RED screen, the flashing is crazy, and in playing back video, on lighter backgrounds flickering happens..

    Don't mind the mess of wires, this will be cleaned up soon once this project is final !

    I don't want to drop the resolution to 320 X 240, I want to run it at least at 720p so I can get at least SOME detail...

    Any idea ??