Posts by TheCoolDave

Thanks for the info, looked deep into their GitHub and looks like it will deal with HDR and should work fine (with a bug that can be addressed) with my pi 3b that I will be using. I do need to find some more info how to set it up but, based on what I read it will deal with HDR and convert the colors on the fly.

I'm 95% sure all my devices will deal with HDCP, as they should be compliant but, the 2nd out of the splitter dropping to 1080p 120hz, should still all work fine.

I'll go forward and order the parts next week, once I set it up, I'll post back if it works and how well it works.

Can't wait to trash the camera setup.... not even usefull...

Ok, I was looking over things and realized that I needed to trash this project due to HDR. So far, it looks like I have all the hardware I need besides the LEDs and capture device (all sitting in my AliExpress wish list, ready to order) BUT, the ezcap321 does not support HDR.

the horrible, laggy camera setup that I want to trash it, I use now, does work with HDR..

This is a deal killer... it makes this kit worthless...

I was looking into capture devices that support at least 1080p @ 120hz AND HDR and we are looking well over $250 for something like this that puts this project out of affordably. No way am I going to spend an extra $250 for this setup no matter how much I like it.

I ran into this...

GitHub - awawa-dev/HyperHDR: Highly optimized open source ambient lighting implementation based on modern digital video and audio stream analysis for Windows, macOS and Linux (x86 and Raspberry Pi / ARM).

HyperHDR, this will work on the PI, analyze the video, when it detects HDR it will convert it on the fly.

Has anyone used this with Hyperion? Or is this a whole different program? Kind of confused on what this is but, HDR is important to this project...

Of course, thank you for your help and the specs on devices. Do we know 100% that the Ezcap321 will work with Hyperion? Will Hyperion take in the 1080p 120hz signal over a PI and work with it?

I see Aliepress has the Ezcap321 (one that does support 1080p @ 120hz) for like $48, it's fair cheaper there than on ebay, or what is on Amazon. It appears to be discontinued for a A/B/C version of it, but it's cheaper but, specs are lower. It might be the route I go.

I didn't know anything or heard anything about PicCap, never saw it, my TV now (going to replace it in like a year) is a 2019 65" LCD based LG with WebOS on it... Noting you need to HACK the TV, don't care about that one. How do you get video signal out of the TV? It has no video out.

I used cheap off the shelf LEDs last time, what is some of the better LEDs that work with a PI(3b)?

Honestly, I am shocked that no HDMI 2.1 subject has not come up that much, or any confirmed installations. I figured this would be a very hot topic for those with this type of setup.

I actually own an Ezcoo HDMI 2.1 splitter (this is claimed to pass output and drop to 1080p 120hz on 2nd output). I was planning to use a PI 3b for this project if possible.

Just posted here to see what works. I'm not worried about audio passthrough, just need something that by passes HDMI 2.1 VIDEO only without losing anything....

ARC and CEC I don't care about but, HDR and Dolby vision are big ones..

As I need to buy NEW LEDS and a capture card, I really want to know what works before dumping more money into this project.

No one else here has run into HDMI 2.1 and Hyperion?

Ok, I was a big Hyperion fan but, my setup is complex, I'll go through it....

For the longest time, I had its setup like this. My AVR supports only HDMI 2.0b on this setup I have 2 HDMI monitor outs. I used to use this with Hyperion (PI 3b with a 4K 60hz capture device). Then the Series X and PS5 came in the picture with HDMI 2.1, my AVR does not support HDMI 2.1 but, my TV does.

The AVR does deal with DVR and my Home theater PC so the HDMI switching is needed here.

At this point running new consoles direct in the TV, then I was using ARC to run Atmos Audio back to the AVR, this worked fine but as you guess, my Hyperion setup didn't work with HDMI 2.1 devices. During this time, I decided this would never work with my setup (a lack of HDMI 2.1 devices for quite a wile) and moved to a $80 Govee camera setup and I HATE IT.

Towards mid last year ARC just failed completely, something broke, spent like 3 months troubleshooting this and with 0 results. From that point could only get audio through the TV, no Atmos, nothing through my sound system.

Now, I found a HDMI 2.1 Audio extractor. This solved the ARC failing problem. HDMI 2.1 devices run to this extractor, a passthrough cable goes to the TV, then an Audio only HDMI cable goes back the AVR, so I can get Atmos and other higher audio formats.

Everything is completely macro'ed out via a touch screen remote, I can do complex wiring things and as long as it could be controlled via IR, you only hit one button to make the magic happen. I don't care about the device as long as it can be IR controlled; I can make it disappear.

IN a nutshell, HDMi 1 on the TV gets AVR stuff and HDMI 2 gets 4K 120hz sources...

What I was thinking... a HDMI 2.1 switch that is IR controlled, run the output from the Audio extractor on port 1, and AVR to port 2 (macro'd out on the remote), the ouput here would go into HDMI 2.1 Splitter, this pass through perfectly HDMI 2.1 devices but, one output would be 1080p 120hz, then go to Hyperion with a PI driving accurate LEDs.

I think all I really need is a device that can take a HDMI 2.1 signal, OR a 2.0b (1080p @ 120hz is within spec on HDMI 2.0b) and capture video to import into Hyperion on a PI.....

I am creative to find solutions for other things as you can see but, I want to get back into Hyperion for accurate LEDs...

I know this was dated this is MY issue but, I was a big Hyperion guy on my setup. My Series X and PS5 could not be used with my setup due to HDMI 2.1 devices.

Now that there is a flood of HDMI 2.1 devices, capture, splitters, etc, is there a solid HDMI 2.1 reasonably priced setup that blows away the Govee Camera setup I moved to that I hate ????

AH, figured it out... D'oh, changed to port 80, now all is solved

Just my 0.02 here... I might suggest getting a dedicated capture device and get rid of the 3RCA device as said above.. With HDMI and with 4K, there is a thing called EDID, this reports back to the device saying what they MAX it will support, lowest always wins here.

EDID is a HDMI standard, it talks to the device and asks, WHAT DO YOU SUPPORT ? And the TV/display device (your capture device), will report 1080p (lowest always wins), even though one part will support 4K. Your 4K tv will display it at 1080p because your capture device will only support up to 1080p.

When you connect a few things to process video, you possibly add lag, a slight delay to the LEDs when the video shows on the screen.

I went on amazon, looked for a 4K capture device, found one for like $40, it worked perfectly and it's what I am using. This capture device will capture @ 4K @ 60 but, will only output 1080P, this will help you.

I ran into this problem, my Xbox Series X was only playing at 1080p because of my capture device, upgraded to one that will do up to 4K @ 60hz, all is happy...

I use a 3b, it's one I have had for a while now. I picked it up JUST for this project. After this tweak of running another ground, it seems no flickering now. I just wish I could get the LAG down to 0... It's there, minor but, it's there.

Yea, I could lower it to 640 by 480 to minimize it but, I want detail if possible, so I run a little lower 720P on it @ 60fps, Would a PI 4 allow for like 1080p detail(I'm sure a true 720P would be enough for reasonable detail) and No lag ?

Or is there another trick to this, tried all the baudrate / software / hardware as listed in this thread alone....

Does the newest version help with this ? I have not upgraded yet but, was planning to..

My capture device does up to 4K @ 60hz, I want one that is lagless and supports up to 4k @ 120hz...

So, I have been troubleshooting this issue for quite a while, if I drop down to 50% or so, it does not flash any more but, it's to low unless the room is pitch black.

This weekend I wanted to try some things. The PI is connected via the 30a 5v power supply. On the PI I ran 2 more ground cables and this resulted in no change.

I took a longer cable, soldered it to the middle ground on LEDs (so, ground at start, even and middle) and that fixed it.

Changed to 100% brightness, not a single flicker...and lag is very little if any so it's working perfect now.

Still some minor other issues but, over all working great now...

Hi,

My Hyperion system has been working fairly good over all for a while. When I turn the system on, it's just a switch and turns on the PI that turns on the system. I have some blinking AGAIN, on bright images so I wanted to check it out.

Well, the Webgui no longer works. I checked my DHCP server, verified the IP address, I can ping it, I can SSH to it with no problem, open a browser and "Hmmm… can't reach this page" comes up...Try in firefox "Firefox can’t establish a connection to the server at XX.XX.XX.XX"

Any idea or should I try repair the install ?

Hi all,

Still been playing with this. So I got as new capture device and after a while the LEDs would go off after my screen flashing/resyncing. We'll long story short, I just added the PI power supply back, and all is resolved. I really wanted to have 1 power supply for this whole thing but, it's not really working like I want. I think my capture device just needs a little more power.

I got the LAG almost to nothing, very, very, very minor, and happy about that but, flickering still happens. If I take the brightness down to 60% it's only when the brightest image is on you can see very, very slight flickering (it's almost gone here) but, 60% is too low.

I find at 75-80% brightness it looks good and is bright enough but, flickering on bright images can get pretty bad at times.

I checked voltages. While running the LEDs with CN on (normally very bright images), I was seeing between 5.00v and 4.99v. I adjusted just a little, at idle it will be 5.004v, but, with a load, it's 5.00v solid, even on bright images.

I have 1 ground to the PI but, it's solid right to the power supply. Any other things I can try here ? It's almost there but, this flickering need to stop and having fairly bright would be nice.

Quote from Mike72

Flickering could be a sign for unstable 5 Volts from the power supply. If you have a adjustable PS, make sure that stable 5V coming from the output.

Back the thread, my voltage was higher, like 5.09v, with some trial and error, I got it to exactly 5v.

I tested this many times though out the process...

It's why I question it. 80% is fine but, just in case I want more range I would love to figure it out.

So, for today, a holiday weekend, raining all weekend... sigh. So I deiced to work this. I got rid of the UNO, and just went with the PI on GPIO 18. Re-followed Dr.Z's video just for reminder things. I did grab a new HDMI capture device, one that was rated pretty good from others here.

With dropping the resolution down to 720 X 480, the lag is very little but, still there. A lot less than I could get with the UNO.

Had to drop the brightness down to 80% or red images (or any very bright color) would be a flicker/flashing fest. I am wondering why I need to do this ? I got a 5v 30a power supply, way over powered for what I actually need. Is the flicker due to power issues AKA lack of power ?

I used to have a 5v 10a PS doing this before (same amount of LEDs, with the old JAVA based Hyperion app), never a single flicker. I figured bigger supply would give better results... I guess not.

I'll have to play with it for a little bit but, looking good so far...

Quote from wilsonpossible

I made a crap ton of changes without documenting, but I think a full system reset fixed that. If any of my issues return or if I figure out what I changed, I'll def let you know

Thanks,

It might be time to rebuilt it. I am thinking about completely getting rid of the UNO, the LAG was bad but, compared to the issues I have had with the UNO, I am hoping I can tweak it better. The logic here is, less devices means less possible lag.

I am looking to have this as solid option but, so far it does not work right and what is the point of having a system like this that does always work right when you need it?

Quote from Tomasz

got message about depencies

Do a search for the exact error, It will come back with a command you run, it's easy but I forget.

There is no reason for this not to be able to run on a RetoPI install.

Quote from Lord-Grey

If you have an Arduino Uno, go with a Baud rate maximum of 115200.

Tried this, OMG horrible. Completely choppy and lag is really bad

Have not see it shut off but, the lag is like 0.5 or higher

Should I just get rid of the UNO? Will I get better results with just the PI 3b ? its been more trouble in m eyes...

OK, let me set things up and I will try to adjust this again.

Maybe this will help with lag a little as well as the lights just randomly shutting off...

I was following YouTube videos... and 2 of the videos that setup with the UNO say to use 500,000

I'll give anything a shot if it works...

Sorry on the delay on the reply, I kind of put this to side due to other projects, I really want this working perfectly...I've been not using it because of the issues. STILL a little laggy too... noticeable as well.

My Baud settings are 500000

I am thinking about just getting rid of the UNO and got back to the GPO-18 port again, no errors in lights just randomly shutting off, just very laggy and if that can tweaked.

Could my capture device be adding the lag ? If so, is there another one that can deal with 4K 60 and HDR/HDR 10 that does not break the bank open ?

SO, site was down for upgrades the other so, didn't get to reply to this.

I adjusted the voltage that was at 5.09v, after a bunch of adjusting, I got it to EXACTLY 5.00v

After dropping the brightness, the flickering appears to be gone(bright red does not flicker at all) but, the BIGGEST issue now. The light still randomly shut off.

We are watching a video, lights are on, something on screen changes, the lights all go off, nothing, then a few seconds later, the screen changes, and now we lights on. This actually some times causes flickering on all LEDS(they are going on and off).

This did not happen when I was connected to GPIO-18.. ONLY when I am using the UNO... but, connecting to GPIO-18's lag was soo bad.

Any ideas on this one ?