Posts by Ambient_theater77

like this, then connect a GND to the raspi PINout and switch it with pulse contact (1) seconds is enough, to GPIO3

with that you can shutdown and also wake up the Raspi.

with APA102 ledcontroller run Gamma at 2.2 or 2.4 This what i strongly recommend

Run it also in BGR, and use the colourwizard in the top of the webpage

Quote from Him

But I am still curious about whether unplugging the Pi without shutting it off is bad or not.

yes, it can be bad for the SD card and corrupt it.

you can use GPIO3 for it to put the raspi (to sleep) then you can switch power off.

i have this also, its called _shutdown command at GPIO3, for this to work you need;

1_ to put extra line in config.txt .

2_ switch the GPIO3 with GND (with relais or other) so goes to shutdown sequence

look at raspi docs how to make it work 🤝

Quote from Nikola

need an Hdmi grabber with passthrougt as shown in image!

with usb capture

and has to be able to passthrogh CEC-signals!

just cant seem to find what works with Hyperion+Pi4

anyone know what och where to buy?

Display More

Loop devices from AliExpress:

type LOOP without audio > Rullz

yes.

1] ceiling projector type with tuya/zigbee, then need a smart HUB and Smartlife app to connect to HA

(there's also other ways but this is the easiest way for you with tuya/zigbee devices)

2] ceiling projector type with Wi-Fi then you don't need a smart HUB or Smartlife app to connect to HA

(the WiFi type is the easiest device for you, you only need the ceiling projector)

just check the AliExpress/Amazon and see what type you want

home assistant is Linux based en you can run that with a Thinclient pc or with raspberry PI or other ways.

its a server, that can connect a lot of different Home Automation IP based devices in your home. Mostly you connect to a HUB with Home Assistant setups.

what Lord-Grey mentioned;

if the device is WIFI based (no Tuya/Zigbee) then you can connect the device directly to Home Assistant.

Home Assistant will automatically scan your IP network for new devices, as soon as they will be activated on your WiFi (or LAN) it detects automatically in a popup..

normally you log in on HA server with url:

example: 192.168.1.1:8123

8123 is default portnumber

i would advice using Tuya/Zigbee and home assistant myself, start with a Smarthub and enroll that and the smart ceiling projector onto that with help of the Smartlife app.

thats step one.

thats said, its possible to steer Philips HUE lights with Hyperion.NG, i have that in my house. The Philips HUE use their own HUB for that though.

Maybe there is a protocol build in Hyperion.NG that can steer your Tuya/zigbee HUB, if there is you can use a separate Instance in Hyperion.NG to program the settings to the smartHUB

eg:

Ik heb dit zojuist gevonden op AliExpress:

€20,19 | Tuya ZigBee 3.0 Smart Hub, draadloze/bekabelde gatewaybrug voor app-spraakafstandsbediening, werkt met Alexa Google Home Assistant

€20,19 | Tuya ZigBee 3.0 Smart Hub, draadloze/bekabelde gatewaybrug voor app-spraakafstandsbediening, werkt met Alexa Google Home Assistant

€20,19 | Tuya ZigBee 3.0 Smart Hub, draadloze/bekabelde gatewaybrug voor app-spraakafstandsbediening, werkt met Alexa Google Home Assistant

a.aliexpress.com

or ask the developers

Quote from bebR

would have 2 rows emitting the same color, with the inner row a bit less longer than the outer one.

hey. I am thinking you talking about parallel connection of 2 ledstrips.

in that case you dont have to change the code, you can use more than 1 ledstrip parallel. I did that with Raspi3b on GPIO so I think it should also work on arduino?

troubleshooting is marking down al possibility flaws so that you hopefully can find the problem.

we are here to trying to help people, especially the dev's. I get it that you are let down but be aware with free source software and applications there's no guarantees.

the first time i invested time/effort in Hypercon (before Hyperion.NG) costed me almost 2 weeks to get it working!

so relax and sit back.

what about your problem, you can try to run another version of Hyperion.NG that you have now. So roll back or upgrade and see if that's OK

Quote from Xitee1

I think it was changing the encoding format.

thats the one.

these are the settings i use.

rood/rood/rood is a fault in the coding of Hyperion.NG, there should be R/G/B

this setting is for disable leds bij dark scenes

the signal threshold also.

viel spass!

FPS setting on my system is 25 frames per second with 720p

Quote from Xitee1

and is unrelated to the capturing method (happens with direct screen capture or HDMI grabber).

did you run the Hyperion.NG on expertmode and alter the grabbersettings? eg pixelFormat and FPS settings.

there's a few settings that you can do that will eliminate "flutter" in dark scenes for the most part. I will share them to you.

okay, use only 1 channel MAIN HDMI out on AVR. (deselect output 2 if available)

connect the splitter to that channel, set on Auto not Copy mode.

then main TV on output channel 2

then the loop grabber hdmi cable on channel 1.

usb to Raspi 3b.

and put the log here >> debuglog with expertsettings level

Quote from Schlorzinator

How can i manage to light up the leds alone instead of in a segment of three?

you cant, they are: 3 in group connected per each IC together. Hyperion.NG steers only the IC's not the leds individually.

I had a feeling this was the problem.

For this to achieve you need a ledstrip like HD107S, really nice 5 volts individually programmable leds

normally with 5v ledstrips each IC is connected to one led. The IC can be integrated IN the led or next to the led.

diagram of SK6812

i get it, its maybe because of 12v system ledstrip.

each section lights 3 leds instead of lighting individually

so you have to do the ledcount divided by 3 per side.

i think this wil solve it.

let me know if this helped.

i dont know where you want to go with this setup, but yes you can blacklist every other led in Hyperion.NG

led is physically there but wont lid.

so 1/3/5/7/9 will and 2/4/6/8 etc won't

get it?

in this way you have the "layout " of a 30l/mtr strip.

i have Raspi 3b with 1024 RAM and runs Hyperion.NG 2.016 build with settings on hdmi usb grabber; 720p 25FPS and size decimation on 3.

so anything higher as Raspi 3b is fine You dont need to grab 4k to have nice ledlights, dont be fooled

at least Rasp3, Raspi4 is even better

Quote from quaem

May your LEDs always shine bright!

they do and thank you very much!

Quote from quaem

Or would you say soldering CI/DI directly is the most likely fix here?

try that first i would do.

Probably you touch something when going behind the tv, loose connection/wire or joints that weren't perfect but just barely okay.

If using Wago's >> use only one port and twist all wires in that port.

Quote from quaem

I checked all wiring with a multimeter and confirmed continuity everywhere

There shoulnd't be any continuity, probably thats what you meant >> between DI/CI NO continuity between GND/5volts NO continuity

should be in screen> OL and no beep audible

Quote from quaem

Could it also be a defect in the LED strip or even the Pi itself?

thats also possible, but if it was me i start troubleshooting with Debug-log > wiring/joints/contacts > defectively hardwares

Quote from quaem

Could it be that this additional connection is already enough to disturb the DI/CI signals and cause the LEDs to stay white

yes that's possible, if the connection on GPIO has to be without resistance.

When using jumpercables that aren't tight around GPIO you get resistance because the contact is minimum, thus data signals can not go freely where they want to the strip. Thatswhy i always solder on my GPIO's

what does the Debug log says now?

Don't forget to run Hyperion in expertmode to be able to see the log

did you change the hardware LEd count

did you measure on ledstrips contactpoints/solderpoints between DI and CI if there isn't any continuity?