then you have resistance in the couplers and voltage drops.
just solder them the joints and problem is over 💪
then you have resistance in the couplers and voltage drops.
just solder them the joints and problem is over 💪
what you can do:
login as expert level and download the Json settings.
then alternate the settings you want and import them in Hyperion.NG
You have a big chance it would work then.
also put a line in config.txt
dtparam=audio=off
because WS281x driver uses also audio input on pwm
reading along: from my experience with audio/video and KVM switches.
you supposed to begin with the last device in the chain.
so begin with power/sticking the grabber, then connect the HDMI from that to the matrix then power it, etc etc.
the last thing you do is activate the videosignal from the source.
in this way the EDID and/or HDCP will not malfunction
The live video is showing a pink/purple color.
are you with any chance using Dolby Vision signals in your setup?
you're not responding at all on the things that being asked or reporting back what you did to "fix" this problem with the solutions we provided. What steps did you execute? how did you test stuff?
so how can we know how to help you further.
no, you have to connect GND PIN raspi and GND of LED and/or LED psu together.
only stabilise the common grounds with each other.
NOT the +12v !
are you using protobuffer portsettings on the Hyperion screen grabber and pc?
Is your network open so the protocols can reach the pc?
same network, no Vlan's ?
from the shield with some android browser, can you reach pc webbrowser hyperion homepage?
android grabber doesnt support HDCP so you cant stream vd-services like Netflix/Amazon/Disney etc
i think reading this.... your tv stops abruptly/no signal.
this isnt a Hyperion.NG problem but probably a splitter and/or HDCP problem.
it seems that as soon the signal is splitted then the copyright DRM is kicking in trough HDCP.
try your setup WITHOUT the splitter, directly connect the video signal only to Raspberry and see what happens
if you have a good signal, re attach the splittet and switch on Copy edid mode.
the splitter is HDCP compliant its claiming to be. Still try the setup without it.
maybe my app is different because i never saw that feature 🙌
i think its this >> see image. first line check this. (herstel de oorspronkelijke staat............) check this box
Lord-Grey that is the HUE setting that overrides only the poweroff colour from on/off with a physical switch from your house . but nothing else.
try grabber 25fps setting
i have wled too with this settings:
i think you have to adjust the baudrate.
the levelshifter should have a common GND to the psu/levelshifter PI and ledstrip
why not running Hyperion.NG SPI build-in ledcontroller for the SK6812 rgbw strip??
You can do that, maybe need a levelshifter from 3.3 volts databoost to 5 volts, cost a few dollars
When alternating the order in which I turn on the devices (Splitter/Firestick) I have successfully seen the initial “Firestick” on logo on the capture source before it immediately goes to the no signal.
let me guess.. as soon the source is connected no screen anymore on port 2 ? so it seems that as soon the EDID data is being requested because the source sees a device coming "online"
then the device cant send the EDID for whatever reason and the source breaks of the signal immediately.
that to me it seems whats happening?
anyway, the splitter/scaler should be the catcher in this case so the source "thinks" EDID data is being sended.
i think that something fishy is going on with your splitter/scaler now..
or the grabber is the culprit and scrambles the EDID data incorrectly
HDCP? The splitter should be HDCP 2.3/2.2 compliant (unless the capture card also needs to be which defeats the purpose of the splitter).
EDID/HDR/Downscaling? I only need 1080p to my TV so maybe an 8K capable splitter is overkill?
i overview your setup, for the looks of it it seems:
HDCP cant be the culprit because only the splitter/scaler needs to have that protocol build in so it can decode the signal before the splitting and downscaling begins.
i think the problem is the EDID. Normally the device monitor/screen is sending back EDID data to the source (trough the splitter/scaler) so the source knows what equipment is there. Then it knows also what the max resolutions is to send and the FPS. If it doesnt then it doesnt send anything.
try for testing on port 2 a tv or monitor/tablet you have laying around. I asure you it will work then.
Set EDID on downscale setting. First always begin with the last device to connect and then go up in the chain. so > grabber > splitter > source. and power them also in this sequence would be my advice
another thing: 8K splitter/scaler is only max resolutions it can bare, it doesnt mean you also have to use 8K as a source. 1080p or 4k is fine.
i hope this makes a little sense
it never really ends I guess 😅 what a year...🫠
I just spoke to him, he eventually solved the problem with the Xolorspace 61121 scaler/splitter.
i have that one also in my setup, NEVER problems. But a little steep at 50 dollars when i bought it 2 years ago. Only 60Hz 4k output.
BTW hyperion doesnt need high res. input to have a great ambilight, i am using 720p on 25fps with HD107S leds and a powerfull PSU.
those things are enough to have a really nice ambilight.
i will show results later.
i am doing the hyperion thing for years now. A mate which has Hyperbian installed on a raspberry bought a new receiver.
till this day the installation is doing things on his own we cant understand.
problems with audio/EDID and HDCP and HDR/dolby vision problems accur sometimes.
then he has to do a lot of twitching" with all the cables and spends time to fix"
my take on this is: when you have a working setup and you change a component in that setup >> everything fails in the chain and you have to redo your "design" of your ambilight setup.
took me almost a year to get it right, and i am a technician with hobby audio/video.
now it runs simple and fluid.
goodluck with your build 💪
i have HA also, it should automatically detect Hyperion.NG without any tweaking on the same LAN so no Vlan's that you didnt route yet.
Try to login on your router and see if HA and Windows pc network adapters getting a DHCP binded ip adres.
if that. try to ping to both devices.
sometimes it helps restarting the PI and Windows pc after setting the router.
try to connect after that.
sounds to me:
RTFM 😅 your receiver, seems its in the settings. Also explore the output HDMI settings and experiment with 1 or 2 outputs used on the receiver.
the problems started when you introduced the new receiver in your setup so i would start there for troubleshooting.
and test per each source connected to the receiver.
goodluck!