Posts by Lighting-guy77

    but I get white signal noise instead of hdmi capture. Only way to fix it is to unplug hdmi from my xbox and plug it back in.


    i think you have a EDID and or HDCP problem, has nothing to do with Hyperion.


    with EDID the device answers back, splitters/LOOP devices dont have that option which sometimes give problems at the source.

    the problem is that the device doesn't know there is a signal to begin with.

    HDCP problems make sure the signal from the source is not received by the device >> protection/security


    only way to fix this is use of a good splitter which supports EDID/HDCP

    did you set these?


    Go to the WebUI and menu USB grabber;


    Device; USB video: USB video

    Input; Camera1 ( or higher)

    Resolution; in 16/9 lowest as possible and then build up the resolution

    Size decimation; set to at least 4 until 12 >> the higher count, the worse image

    Frames a second; 15FPS or go lower and higher.

    Pedro Teixeira


    i see that you have more than one instance, are you sure you selected the default one like instance one


    and have all the settings correct for the apa102?

    to select, just run the instance at remote and then choose the instance thats running into top corner ( screen icon) has to become an green dot.


    note; only instance one you can controll in the app Hyperion Free the others don't work so you can not test in instance two with an app.

    note2; use flux when you solder because the solderjoints seem to overlap contact each other. with flux/no clean you have a solid and clean connection.

    i turn of the pi like on/off Button on Kable.

    On my PI2 it works also since 3


    yes i did that to before, but people made me aware that it can hurt the SD card to bluntly cut of power of the PI.

    now i use a start/stop script on GPIO 3 to gentfully sign off the PI > goes into sleep > then cut the power

    or others there leave the PI always on.


    its possible hyperion is still running, can you execute hyperiond in the terminal?


    if it is respond will be " hyperion deamon is already running"


    if its not try to start it,



    No I'm using 18awg to the leds which they aren't that long. So basically I should use 6awg wire to the LEDs and and find a power plug that has 6awg ?

    follow the advice of the manufacturer, they know best. Its in the text you can read it yourself.

    yes i would go for step up to 6 awg, and SOLDER everything especially with high currents and low voltages.


    did you ever did measurements on your setup like voltage and current, if not start with that. >> multimeter

    i gave you my thoughts already on the solder part, and wires almost cost nothing to buy.

    most of us have it laying around but depends of how much current you are going to draw trough the wire and the distance from PSU to device..

    Kindly note

    1) 110V/220V must be selected by switch before using to avoid damaging. Please change the switch to 110V for USA.

    2) The power supply fan does make a noise and the speed of the fan is load based. So the higher the load, the faster the fan runs, the louder the noise.



    Statement:

    Some customers complain that output power of 5V power supply is insufficient. After a series of tests, we find the reason is wrong test method, not quality issue.

    Because of low voltage and large current, 5V power supply requires the test wire to be thick and short enough, so as to reduce the power loss as much as possible.

    Compared with the 12V and 24V power supply, if the same current is to be output, 5V power supply needs a thicker output wire.

    For example, if the 12V 20A power supply is tested by 11 AWG test wire,no current and voltage drop, no power loss.

    But when we test 5V 20A power supply, in order to get sufficient 5V voltage and 20A current, 6 AWG test wire is required.

    If we use 11 AWG test wire or 6 AWG test wire is too long, the current and voltage will drop much. This is the characteristic of the current transmission of 5V power supply.

    The lower the output voltage is, the wider the transmission channel should be. If you need test report, please feel free to contact us.



    So? Are you using this what they recommend?

    especially for cheap high current china power supplies. Maybe a little oversized... 8o

    Also, APA102 never worked properly without a level shifter in my setups. ;(



    hahaha something similar i used in car-hifi installations, the 1,5 Farrad cap > carefull with installments! always use a lightbulb in series to load. :P


    Really never worked? i made already 3 setups now,


    • ws2801 first build
    • apa102 for myself, second build
    • apa102 for a friend

    not any of the builds needed level shifter/caps or resistors.

    maybe i am just lucky ;)

    if you have a look at the sk6812, you would need for every led a cap...

    1 microfarrad each LED, i wonder what it does and >> is it also implemented into the strip type of the sk6812?

    i think it should be there to flatten out the curve . if it even excist > to protect the led and also make it possible to run at lower voltage, i think thats the mainreason they implement it.


    • just to be safe
    • make it possible run on 3,5 volts ( capacitor works as a storage container for power needed)


    something like that, still i am convinced if i see the schedule that the led will run on 5 volts without the c2 104 cap.



    And in general when you think about it then if the capacitor is needed into the schematics if you are using the led without a strip.

    whats the purpose then to use a 1000 microfarrad 16volts capacitor for the whole line at the beginning?

    its impossible for that capacitor to hold and flatten out a curve for all the leds simultaniously ( because they are mounted in voltage parallel, so equal 5 volts applied)

    To summarize, yes, you'll probably be fine without using caps and a resistor



    good argument, but..

    I think that a big brand like Meanwell ( the real one) where we do purchase a lot at the company, cannot afford bad quality.


    A big brand like that can not take the chance into a "bad production or cheaper costs" , the professional installations depend on hassle free and no mallfunction environment. If it was the case that a PSU will die fast then they get a bad reputation fast also :)


    so i will stand by this, most problems with builds/setups if its ambilight or something else will most the time come back to the person who build it and has a flaw in the build. Its not the PSU but


    • bad connections in general
    • gauge of wire not thich enough, has more resistance in wire like AWG18 ( its only 1mm thick)
    • not soldered joints/PINS or connections in general
    • Grounding trough GND pins/ledstrip/PSU isn't done properly or not at all.
    • using two diffrent powersources and not grounded correctly to each other
    • PSU is a cheap knock off or even worse powerbrick" with no earth connection to powergrid.
    • PSU is bad, to much AC running trough DC signal and not rectified properly ( believe me that happens a lot )
    • the list goes on and on.

    especially for low voltage and high currents soldered joints become really important to reduce resistance into the joints as much as possible.

    so you see before this is all not correct you can use as much capacitor as you want but you never get the results you are hoping for.

    thatswhy i myself am not a big believer into adding electronics that shouldn't be necessary in the first place.


    call me old fashion, and... each to his own.


    advice is free. ;)

    D34DC3N73R


    i am a oldschool guy, i think that we have come far into electronics from 30 years ago untill now.


    PSU's thats fabricated now ( the better ones/brands) are way way better than 20/30 years ago, they are all electronic, have safety in them and switch off if it detects mallfunction and/or to high power drainage like shortcutting.


    So to be short; no it can't hurt to use the capacitors of course not.

    but you can do without is my 2 cents.



    i never used capacitors/resistor in my build and it runs flawless for already 1,5 years. ;)

    D34DC3N73R


    thanks for the input, i know that site ( looked in there before) from beginning with ambilight project.


    The resistor data line surge i get, i think its also mostly for 3 -line strips that only have 1 data line. :)

    i think also for Raspi you don't need them ( can't hurt if used) because dataline output isn't higher than 3,3 volts.


    the capacitor story all comes back to the use of a weak/not steady powersupply and/or not clean and rectified enough.

    that said;


    -i am not convinced ( yet) about the capacitor


    -i am about the resistor, but only if used in a MCU/controller thats not a Raspi.




    i think and thats the mainreason why they will repeat that, most people are not experienced in electronics and buy the cheapest stuff from Amazon or AliExpress they can find like powerbricks and such.., if you use that stuff then chance is big you will fry the neopixels strip from them and they dont want that of course. ;)

    so ( how i see it) its a precausion to use that capacitor to RULE OUT bad PSU thats on the market.


    ;)

    i 've read a story when only with starting of the (bad quality) PSU spikes in the voltage will occur and possibility is without using the capacitor > can damage your ledstrip.

    but thats only when booting up the powersupply.


    when powersupply already runs and then ledstrip is powered up nothing can happen i would say... :whistling:


    oh, and also don't forget to fuse correctly like davieboy explained in his topic, RE: Protect you Build because this can also mean a way to high current ( unwanted) trough your electronics. ;)

    hello folks,



    after being here for quite a time i see that people intend to use extra electronics in his/hers Ambilight setup.

    my question is why,


    don't get me wrong, each to his own. ;)


    but....


    I never understood why the Ambilight guys think they need a capacitor soldered between the +5volts line and GND on the strip.

    the only thing a capacitor does in this typical setup is "buffering" and storing power when its needed, this capacitor used ( in microfarrad) is so tiny that it only works for milli seconds

    that is if it even works at all. ( do you know its actually doing something at all, or you can do without?)



    in my world/eyes and out of the engineeringfield, if you have a powerfull PSU that delivers a steady/clean rectified AC to DC then the use of extra capacitors isn't necessary

    the good quality PSU is more then capable to be "powerdrained" without having a problem in rectifier circuit.


    and then the resistor in the dataline before connected to the strip ( mostly 3 line strips)

    the resistor in series is only meant to protect the first LED in the strip and only if the strip is powered from one side this has use.

    for the rest of it it does absolutely nothing.

    i am talking about this>>>



    power from both sides ( the ledstrip) is the way to go in that setup,

    less electronics is always better then a lot. Why use that capacitor is it really really necessary??

    in my eyes, when u need to solder capacitors between the powerlines then something isn't already quite right from the start..


    my only two cents. ( or prove me wrong, i might learn something) :D



    note; i am not using them no capacitor/resistor

    Hi, I just started creating my settings for my tv and I am super lost


    what do you want to achieve with your led setup?


    i don't get it at all,


    A; you want on the same screen > two strips working indepently of eachother but follow same screen? [two diffrent instances/GPIO's]

    B; you want on the same screen > two strips working together and data is daisychaned from begin to end. [only one instance/GPIO]



    which one or is there a thirth?

    thats really cool man, i am not a programmer but i know that there's a program ( that i use myself) to "grab" the desktop of windows and send it trough PROTO port 19445 at Hyperion PROTO server.


    Hyperion Screen Capture >> on github >> https://github.com/sabaatworld/HyperionScreenCap/releases


    its not the same as sending a "video to it" but i think you can use this also?


    maybe for you this is a nice start to translate the coding and use it in someway on Android/Apple?

    i can not help you further because i know jack about programming, i am a builder :)