What is the overall advantage of this 'loop'? Does it really avoid using a splitter?
Yes people buy them because of that feature, HDMI feed goes in and UNALTERED goes out.
The trick is the USB out, this is the video feed reduced to 1080p most of times .
Ofcourse you can use a traditional capture device, for this you need most of times a splitter to split the signal from the source to tv and Hyperion
point 5: yes Hyperbian runs Hyperion.NG 2.09 Alpha
point 6: have a look at my topic for LOOP capturing devices 
hello folks,
because i read a lot of stories which i helped the members with this device i decided to make a thread out of this that goes for all capture devices type "LOOP"
no i am not working at Amazon or Ali express.
we are are talking about this type of above device>> function is originally to use it for live streaming from game-pc or what not to a video card to record the session, or too split the screen into a double output for tv and laptop so you and thee wife can watch the same program on diffrent screens.
a lot of people purchase this > they saw it in a video of Youtube and its really cheap. Its a nice device but in Hyperion.NG it needs special settings to work.
if you use it as USB device then the capture device is always going to be detected and then rejected.
Results is; it appears and vanishes as a device in remote section of WebUI.
To not let this happen....
Go to the WebUI and menu USB grabber;
Device; USB video: USB video
Input; Camera1 ( or higher)
Resolution; in 16/9 lowest as possible and then build up the resolution
Size decimation; set to at least 4 until 12 >> the higher count, the worse image
Frames a second; 15FPS or go lower and higher.
these settings should provide you a steady live-feed into Hyperion.NG, however nothing is to be said about the hardware that u use as a Raspi.
you have diffrent Raspi's with each of them their own characteristics.
PI0 = cheap and possibillity to use, but singlecore so with ( above) capturing device attached and running heavy OS can be to hard on the fellow..
pi1= weak, dont use.
pi2= okay but no HDMI port there and not really strong CPU to render the images out of grabber coming in.
pi3= good, go for PI3b (PI3a is single core) thats a quadcore > you see that in results and its not expensive like 50$
Pi4= excellent but only untill PI4 version 1.4 >> not 2.0 because Hyperion.NG is not supported yet on that version.
there's something else, USB port of PI whats used it takes a toll on overall performances of the PI and his core ( will heat up)
in a ball park, you can determine easy without all of kinds of codes if the PI is underclassified for the job you meant it to be doing.
go to terminal in running process of the PI and use only this code:
after the $: vcgencmd measure_temp
you see right on the spot if the PI is too hot, so to hot ( over 80 degrees C) that means that CPU is not equipped for the job at hand.
it has to run at high speed and cannot handle. ( same thing goes for your laptop> its blowing all the time the fan?? runs at max.
there's something else that you can do, you can increase the ARM of the PI, and you can increase USB port power to the capturing device.
#alter the ARM and insert force turbo line at own risk# it can damage your PI especially the older ones. 
if you still want to to that, for that you have to go to config.txt and alter the ARM and USB line,
go to your terminal in Putty or SSH
cd /
ls
cd /boot
sudo nano config.txt
#uncomment to overclock the arm. 700 MHz is the default.
arm_freq=900
force_turbo=1
max_usb_current=1
Once the changes have been made, press Ctrl + X to save and exit.
sudo reboot
after reboot it should work and CPU running higher in ARM, USB port is more powerfull.
https://www.raspberrypi.org/do…onfig-txt/overclocking.md
shoot questions if you have them and goodluck with this mini-tutorial! 
there it is>> https://www.wish.com/product/5…UQaAsmbEALw_wcB&share=web
you need ambibox software to run it.
make a video of how the box works in operation + explanation.
video says more than 1000 words 
that would help "bump" the topic
i already explained the why and how to you.
A friend of mine has this and its purpose is WITHOUT hyperion to run alone on USB port of tv.
If you connect it to Hyperion.NG which works ith several codecs/controllers, it doesn't understand the chinese clone. ( hardware issue)
original Arduino or ESP8266 cost a few bucks, if you persisting and want still to take this route then by al means but i am out.
no hard feelings or that, but i am far to busy to reply all the time with something is not going to work nicely..
goodluck with the project.
that you accidently put the HDMI-Cable in the Pi's out instead of the grabbers in....
yes mate, thats not going to work 
device: USB Video: USB Video
input: Camera 1
the rest of the settings have to be static NOT automatic.
FPS > like 15f/s
resolution > lowest possible in 16/9 and build up
PAL or NTSC ( PAL is better most of times)
size decimation > between 4 and 12
have you solved the "flickering" already? its wise just to begin with only ONE troubleshooting at the time
if you sort the "flickering" out then look at capture device or vise versa
Okay thanks for the answer , I'll try to build it with an arduino or a wemos
somewhere ( not to long ago) there was a topic about this same chinese clone ledbox and we go on for 5 pages or something before we found out its not going to work with this clone.
if i find it back i share it to you.
found it, also a clone>> Rpi3 + Arduino + libreELEC >> vendor preset: disabled
not the same ledbox buts in here in the forum somewhere can't find it now.
i connect you to another topic and then you can see
yes it sure can.
there's all the answers already so i don't have to write them twice, and maybe you can give eachother pointers 
settings is okay, set USB device to camera with LOOP capture devices on first/second picture.
Hyperion.NG redetects them the whole time on USB grabber setting , when switched to CAMERA that stops.
Hyperion.NG sees the device as a camera because of the LOOP capturing, probably there's a chip inside which tells the Hyperion.NG software "i am a camera"
i think/suspect the capture devices are both fine,
when used GPIO18 (PWM) disconnect the audio in config.txt
dtparam=audio=off
sometimes you need a Logic level converetr for GPIO18 setup with ws281x PWM controller, but first try this steps
goodluck!
Could I solder the led stripe directly to the Pi zero GPio ?
yes you can do that, some ledstrips dont need a Logic level shifter others do directly connected to a Raspi.
if you provide a steady/clean and powerfull DC voltage+current to the ledstrip then most of the times you can directly connect to GPIO.
it also depends on what MCU u are going to use, if its running only on +3.3 volts ( when data to ledstrip needs at least 3.5) then you are certain most of times to use a level shifter anyways.
there's a schematics that you can follow can be found here on the forum.
schematics is made by TPmodding and myself.
did you ever look at your core temp?
I use a Pi Zero and it works perfectly with hyperion using the HyperBian image
vcgencmd measure_temp
i think it runs quite hot there > Pi zero is a single core
we are already on Hyperion.NG 2.09 Alpha and 2.10 is coming
NG is new generation
Raspberry Pi 2B with Libreelec (9.2.6) and the Hyperion Software (V1.03.4).
mate, try the HYperion.NG > Hypercon is not supported anymore >> Install Hyperion.ng on LibreELEC x86_64/RPi (inoffiziell/unofficially)
my mate has the same thing and also people here on this forum, never works so forget it.
you can make it with a ORIGINAL Arduino nano or other MCU 
> ledstrip you already have
the box>> its a arduino clone , prebuild sketches don't work for that in Hyperion.NG
even when you select Adalight for Arduino it doesn't work ( barely)
the controller and leds you purchased are meant for using directly on a USB port of your TV set.
It works! You are the best!
you're welcome man
Already tried different values with no effect
in Screengrab Hyperion Windows its Adapter 0 Monitor 0 > did you try that?
the other settings thats now on automatic need a static one.
so
FPS > 15 or lower
resolution ( begin lowest possible and build-up)
video standard > PAL or NTSC
decimation > between 4 and 12
if that doesnt help your capturing device is not getting a image
