Posts by Lightning-guy77

    I had just researched it in Google about DRM and I found solution here:

    To remove the DRM you can use Widevine L3 Guesser. There's also a modified version of the extension with a python script that makes downloading the encrypted streams, decrypting and muxing easier. Alternatively you could StreamFab in a VM. That downloads the stream, decrypts, muxes the files, and includes metadata. The trial limit can be bypassed using checkpoints. Other HBO Max downloaders, like Audials, just screen record.


    reading that, i think thats only to par for ICT giants or somebody thats into coding/muxing and decrypting.



    For Hyperion screen grabber app on Android its the same problem. Works great, but when starting up Amazon Prime video/Netflix then the app detects DRM content and puts out black screen.


    its :( but not much you can do about that.



    you can evade the whole HDMI or screen grabber route and evade the HDCP/DRM problems.


    Point a (web)camera to your screen and connect it to USB port, Hyperion sees this as camera1 ( you have a little lag..)

    i've done this myself with good results, i would give it a 7 ( out of 10) and pointed a security cam with 11mm lens on it to capture my 4k tv 65"

    bare in mind you have to set the resolution and FPS very low.


    maybe soon if i have the time i make a video about my setup at the house, and show the

    -HDMI route

    -Hyperion screen grabber route

    -camera route

    - HUE lights

    i have also something to say about this,


    The Hyperion server is communicating with HUB, that HUB is also communicating with the HUE app.

    You can see the colourbuttons within the app when Hyperion is running are going up and down.




    this is the settings for the HUE in Hyperion, you can only set the highest factor for brightness


    or you can set it here in diffrent instance:



    thats the only way i found to set HUE brightness.

    , I have my HUE lamps now for 1 month and already had 2 updates on the HUB/bulbs.



    It can't hurt so why not do it, especially for the new modern lights it's necessary to update your HUB, has to do with protocols and speed of signals probably 🤔

    I think that Philips (where I work for often) doesn't do this without a reason.

    And I think that Yeelight, with no offence ofcourse... is behind with the development as Philips is.

    Philips has a gigantic development team making sure of that.


    After 2 updates everything works fine. I would say smoother and faster. Response time ⏲️ of the lights.


    HUE is not cheap but works without any hiccups 😀

    You need the second generation HUB to make sure all your new lights work. ✨️


    at Philips.myshop you can get a account and get products for less. I got mine for less then retail prices.


    Philips had a discount stand at their premises and told me you can also open a account on myshop.nl


    Maybe that's an idea, I didn't try it myself because I already had the lights for 50% off

    I am using the HuE1100 LM myself

    You can make more instances and alter the brightness 🌞 for the 1100 LM in comparison with the 806 in full brightness


    You will loose some brightness in total then, its on you if you want this.


    But using the full colour GU10 1100 myself I would even out the type of lamps and not mixing different type of bulbs

    But that's just me

    no man, DI and CI are the lines on your sk9822 ledstrip. Clk is clock.


    DI is dataline GPIO10 hardware pin 19

    CI is clockline GPIO11 hardware pin 23


    Nobody is talking about instances

    Nobody is talking about altering or adding GND connections


    Just leave everything the same only you change:


    • PWM GPIO18 hardware pin 12 to SPI GPIO10 hardware pin 19, and connect the DI to that
    • And connect the CI to SPI clk GPIO11 hardware pin 23


    +5volts and GND stay the same connected as the old strip was..

    I will change my LEDs (ws2812) to SK9822, so my question is if I only need to change in Hyperion on the window led controller -- controller type change to sk9822 right?.



    thats right but...... you forget to do some hardware things also.


    SK9822 is a 4 line strip, data and CLK (APA102 clone but less quality)


    ws2812 is a 3 line strip, only data


    so you have to change the data GPIO from 18 to 10 for DI, physically and in Hyperion.NG program

    then, add a second GPIO at clk GPIO11 for CI


    use the ledcontroller SPI in settings, baudrate at about 1400000

    make sure ( normally it is) that SPI controller is activated in settings config.txt

    super guys. I notice I am much more in hardware than software troubleshooting :) 😀


    I was already thinking about making 2 or more instances.

    And then adding 2 or more extra soldered dataline inputs starting at led 17


    And then connected to different GPIO

    Each GPIO different instance....



    But this works also 👌 ;)

    RPi6v2


    sorry mate. I only answer people where there's a chance I can be at help and I know something or a lot about the subject.


    Everyone here is very helpfully. But... this is not a chat forum, indeed for that and having questions answered in minutes you have to go elsewhere 🙄

    so I applied the workaround and added the amount of offset pixel I need and it's working very well now


    i did this also to test, and the link at Github is just the same than blacklist led's in the configurator.


    i compare the Json outcome from either of them and resulted the same. > Hyperion 2.012



    can you share your ledconfig from the webpage and Json? it helps otherss that are struggling with this.

    okay now i know what you mean.


    you have to start the first programmed led at physical led17?.




    physically the first led connected on the strip to data is also LED 1 in programming.

    if you want to change this then u use input position option,


    the only thing this does is to refer to the first programmed LED but not the physical LED, the physical LED is stil there ( first 16 of them) and they go behind in the counting of the program, so become the end led's.


    the blacklist option is the best thing to achieve that you only want to use some particular part of the strip!

    but then YES, the led effect will not lid the blacklisted led's and only start at led 17 and END" at led 114


    the only thing you can do:


    Hyperion doesn't know how much led's there are physically, it only knows because you tell the program the hardware ledcount.


    you can try to increase the hardware ledcount by 32 and then still blacklist the leds you don't want and use the input position on led 17

    try that, i have no more idea's to share.


    Looks like the feature doesn't exist but someone found a hacky way to make it happen


    so use this trick, alter the Json file and OFFset the first led by 16.


    then shorten the total physical led count by 16 > 114 in total then ( empty/0 led's is also counted as leds in the program. )

    this way you don't have to blacklist led's or make a gap. :)



    and update us !




    starts at led 17 now.

    good luck!

    execute this command in terminal:


    sudo updateHyperionUser -u root


    then reboot, (to be sure) in config.txt add a line


    dtparam=audio=off




    hardware: make sure the PI and PSU/ledstrip 12 volts have a common ground.


    connect V- of the PSU, 2 GND PIN of PI and GND of ledstrip together.


    get your debuglog and post it here with pastebin :)

    i am not getting the grasp really why you want to cut BOTH ends, it means that you have to solder the ends 2x again??

    note: over 200 leds its better to power the strip from beginning AND end


    anyway, what you can do > go to your browser aka : 192.xxx.xxx.xxx:8090 ( or every other IP range)




    second, if you resized the ledstrip to your tv and cutoff the 16 leds than the first physical led from the cut is still one.

    you can alter it with setting "input position" so the leds and image wil aligne.