Beiträge von Ambientheater77

Zitat von pclin

Everything can be calculated here.

thats a good way but in reality the ledstrip type smd5050 isn't using that much current, in my calculations and what i see on the ampéremeter is the total draw not exceeding 11Amps > 10.3 Amps without the Raspi

my setup:

-HD107s ledstrip

-amount leds: 260

-temp: 20c

-cable lenght: 100cm

-wire: 2 x 1,5mm2

-wire on surface

-brightness 100%

-voltage drop almost nothing

-PSU: meanwell LRS-100-5

Zitat von PercivallAkihiko

Thanks first for your answer.

we hear it from you when you need extra info

pclin

running before on 90% brightness

just tested at full brightness in white colour>> 14Amps, minus RAspi thats about 13,2Amps at 5 volts + Rullz loop grabber

i put a powerline +5v and GND in between the strip now (at led 130) for better power comsumption.

no not that kind, you need cord like 3x1,5mm2

This is hard wire you need soft wire, don't know how in English it's called

The earth (yellow/green) you don't use then

Or this is fine

did you connect the power to the micro USB port ? ( sufficient?)

Zitat von PercivallAkihiko

Another thing I noticed is that the wires I used are less thick than those of the LEDs, is that a problem? I bought the first cables I saw on amazon, so I don't know if I had to be careful about anything.

the more current the ledstrip is consuming the thicker the wire gauge has to be. Before i had only 2x0,75mm2 ( speakercable) for only 130 leds.

this was sufficient for only 5 Amps maxixum on 5.3 volts

now..... i did a upgrade to 260 leds

i am using 2x1,5mm2 VMVL electracable to the ledstrip, 2 cables to be exact ( together 3mm2 diameter)

10Amps is a lot of current so you can't use gauges thats less than the ledstrip.

On the ledstrip you have a 4 wire and two wire, (red /white)

for extra current you need to combine the 2 GND and +5volts on the outside together. >> see voltage adding in illustration

Zitat von PercivallAkihiko

i found this scheme to mount the level shifter and a PS and I just have a question.

this schedule is fine, just connect it this way and it will work.

the diffrence between the LV (low) and HV ( high) on the level shifter will tell him what the increase of datastream current should be.

the yellow data itself is the increase of dataflow to the ledstrip.

there is only 1 GND or common ground, this is just a stabilisation in the polarity

Zitat von PercivallAkihiko

About the PSU, for me the brightness right now is fine but I would buy it if I need it to solve the flickering problem.

flickering can be

-baudrates

-not enough power voltage

-not enough current

-ledstrip not powered from both sides ( beginning and end) separate GND and +5volts

-datapin of ESP can't hack it >> need levelshifter

-gauge of used wires to thin!

-No or bad common GND

and maybe more...

AND YES YOU NEED A PSU FOR THIS TO WORK WELL>

For your knowledge:

I have 260 HD107s leds and at 95% brightness they consume 10.3 Amps on 5.3 volts.

You need a PSU that can deliver at least 75watt

So to answer your questions; no you can’t with only 1 or 2 amps

Buy Meanwell LRS types of PSU I recommend

Zitat von Fedelencio

Hi all

There is a way you can achieve.

Buy a receiver, every HDMI source you connect to separate hdmi channels, only you have the option to split the output into MAIN and SuB.

MAiN you connect to connect box ARC HDMI channel

SUB you can connect to Hyperion

I think this is the only way to achieve a split HDMI to Hyperion grabber

Zitat von Hyper_87

I already watched its mostly on german

Translate to English with a good webbrowser translator build in, its not that hard.

I am using Yandex for that

take a look here, there's a lot info there

Beitrag

RE: PicCap - Hyperion Sender App | Ambilight for LG WebOS TVs

@MrNFNx
Herstellerseitig auf jeden Fall! Sowas geht immer auf eigenes Risiko!

Im Ernstfall kommt es aber darauf an, wie genau sie hinschauen und wie der Defekt im speziellen Fall aussieht.

Bub4

27. Dezember 2022

check the USB driver on Windows, and settings.

The USB COMport has to be visible when setting up the DMX connection. is it?

Brother is my copymachine, just for example

i didn't test with DMX protocol so this is the only help i can provide..

had to look it up and i didn't experiment with it myself, but has to be this

GPIO 19 (PCM Frame Sync) at Raspberry Pi GPIO Pinout

source: https://forums.raspberrypi.com/viewtopic.php?t=308908

GPIO 12 and 18 is "same group PWM channel

GPIO 13 and 19 is "second group PWM channel

a lot of questions but maybe you can have some idea from my setup at the moment.

There's a few things in this schematics that is diffrent than yours.

Zitat von Ballegeerke

Is it possible to keep my HDMI cable from the MAIN out of the AVR connected to the "TV in" and have a secong HDMI cable from the "SUB out" to a (cheap ) video capture card that would be connected to the RPI 3B (HDCP 2.2 is supported on HDMI Input 3 and Main Out only) ?

maybe if you can use the setting MAIN monitor and copy it to the SUB channel.

but no guaranties it will work .

I don't have a 4k receiver ( yet) but i know there's a option > in my Onkyo Txnr1007 you can copy the MAIN and SUB HDMI channel so the output images on both is the same.

No problems with HDCP because it has none and maximum output of 1080P per channel.

hopes this helps you ..

note: the HDMI audio extractor in this picture is not necessary

Zitat von dveadsl

The PC and Raspi do not receive anything from the TV .....

They did because your leds light up when you tested the connection from Hyperion screen grabber to the Raspi/PC devices...

The only problem is that the grabber itself on the TV (Sony) doesn't seem to connect to the server.

Thatswhy I said that the signal, hence: from Raspi or PC (flat or proto Server) cannot connect to the TV or the hyperion screen grabber doesn't seem to grab the image but only do the test sequence?

I don't know if the server port (proto 19445) only receive or also send packets to the TV to "listen" if something is there...

You have to ask developer Lord-Grey then

Zitat von dveadsl

Which number of door should I open on the router?

I think you did that already

and you can put your log here, set Hyperion.NG on Advanced user settings.

Then go to log and select Debug, reboot and copy/paste the debug log with Pastebin or directly here.

goodluck!

Zitat von dveadsl

I put Hyperion Grab on an Android TV Sony and finds the server perfectly ... when I push the test ... the LEDs shine ...

The problem is that the server does not detect the capture of the Android TV screen.

On Hyperion it appears "there are no devices"

So, to recap.

from the Hyperion screen grabber installed on tv you send protocols to Hyperion.NG ports on PC or Raspi but the ethernetport on tv doesn't like to receive back anything?

have you checked the TV's build in ethernetadapter and reset it or make the IP adress static instead of DHCP or just the other way around?

sometimes routers like it to have DHCP IP adresses leased to devices, but the devices need to have the same IP leased always.

you can do that with binding the MAC to the DHCP IP adress.

Sometimes also it helps when the DHCP protocols is not working properly ( cheap routers) of making the IP adress STATIC, so you are the one creating the IP change into the device.

it depends on routers what they like, also be aware that the Raspi is default receiving DHCP, you can make it static by BIND option.

you can try this first because i have a feeling it has something to do with the network.

Zitat von dveadsl

port 21 ????? 21 usually is for ftp

no its just an example, i have a Filezilla FTP server

for instance>

like this,

the ports that are used for Hyperion/the grabber and Raspi you can open them like this

Zitat von Kollektiv02

How do I get the picture from Windows11 to the RasPi so that the LEDs light up accordingly?

you can use the hint of pclin and buy extra minicontroller ESP, and therefore not using the Raspi anymore.

or you can also do it ( like i did to test before)

install this on Windows11 >> https://sabaatworld.github.io/HyperionScreenCap/

then set the ports in settings the same, standard i used the 19445 ( PROTOBUFFER)

looks like this >>

are you sure you are using the same prefix in your network? ( LAN)

have you binded the DHCP Ip adresses to MAC adresses in your router?

like the TV is 192.168.1.2

so the rest have to be in same range like 192.168.1.3~ 192.168.1.254

think of this also, you can open ports and reroute ports to ip adresses.

seems to me that the router is preventing ports ( protocols) to be broadcasted over the network or something

Zitat von Tipez

Oh ok,

i thought hyperion was on top of that and so that anything on screen would have go to leds.

You can use from Github the sabaatwotld hyperion screen grab.

Works very well 👌 (I think also with Amazon/Disney and Netflix etc)

@kollectiv02

For Windows11 it's better still to use the sabbaat screen cap from Github.

I've read several problems when people (upgraded to) and used Windows11 and internal frame grabber of Hyperion.NG

from personal experience, I have the TV 6cm from the wall but with APA102 30l/mtr there is little visible (gap) between the leds. I can rotate and alter the angle but then it's still there at the bottom leds...

Because the angle is 120 degrees the leds shining is not 100% in angle towards the wall.

Thatswhy I decided to go for the HD107s 60l/mtr that I ordered now to compensate that little gap, and because the ledstrip is already 2 years old

So, wall to close to the TV 📺 means you need more leds/mtr

Zitat von pawaga

SPI Pfad – what ist he difference between 0.0 (/dev/spidev0.0) and 0.1 (/dev/spidev0.1) ?

Thanks all

Device 0 is the Raspi, the digit after that is SPI 0 or SPI 1.

Normally dev/spidev0.0

Pin 19 and 23. (GPIO10 and GPIO11)

19 is MOSI

23 is CLK