Posts by Unavailable77..

    Hello folks, it was a great ride this 2 years but everything must come to and end.

    I hope my contributions can help a lot of others but my time here has ended in this forum, it’s to time consuming to answer the same questions over and over again.

    Also boring (for me that is)

    So I salute you and the dev’s for development in the near future…

    Bye! :D :)

    Thanks, I have returned it, but I have one more question

    Refreshrates like 50/60 Hz is something diffrent than FPS.

    • FPS is frames per second in video transmitted trough HDMI/DVI or other, it has a maximum resolution pér frame

    • refreshrate is coming from local Energy provider normally between 50 and 60 Hz. It means the power (230v ~) is switched high and low 50 or 60 times in a second, also called frequency

    so the 2 go hand in hand but are not the same.

    normally i would say that FPS should be lower than the maximum refreshrate of the monitor.

    tell me please. Is there a way to add dark colors with good brightness (80-100%) and without losing precision of color.

    look at section capture hardware, if signal detection is on there you can alter treshold values for dark Red Green Blue detection.

    (Translation is wrong there... so dont mind that. )

    thats something you can do about "dark" colours

    colorcalibration look at compensation brightness also.

    power the capturedevice from another USB source than the raspi.

    the "whites" mean static, if you watch your live feed then you'll see static colours.

    The signal can not come trough the receiver ( from whatever reason)

    so you have several options to troubleshoot:

    • inject the USB power into the capture device from the TV/PSU but NOT raspi.
    • Set HDMI out at receiver at MAIN HDMI both. If this doesn't help use a splitter on only one HDMI out channel.
    • you have a HDCP problem, you can see that if you switch to Netflix e.a. it will warn you OSD
    • If not than its probably the first 2 mentioned rules i showed you.

    And for the good capturing: set size decimation at 2, FPS at 25, encoding format as MJPEG, resolution as 720P 720x576

    thank me later.


    in UEFI/bios you can often set the USB ports always active, it's at hardware section

    Then you have always USB power at those ports, maybe that helps.

    try to use the USB ports directly on the motherboard on the back, they often have much more power or your problem lies in the fact the USB is 2.0 or 3.0 so check your capture device.


    yes I have,

    Look up the specs of your SK6812NW strip, mine is running under exactly 5.3 volts ⚡️ (HD107S) to achieve most accurate colours possible. Also better for the Raspi to run at 5.3 volts..

    Solder your contact points to reduce resistance

    And look at section ledcontroller and choose the correct algorithm for your whites.

    Go to youtube video and check ✔️ your colours in live feed and your ledstrip simultaneously, seek for ambilight/govee videos

    Set colourscheme in hyperion to default and Gamma on 2.4 red/green/blue

    Run the ledstrip at 30% brightness to see if the whites improves with less luminance.. 🤔

    That's it for now.


    You have to increase the SPI buffer in CMD bootline then you can address more leds than only 255 :)

    But be carefull because the Raspi won't boot anymore if the syntax is not put correctly

    nothing seems out of the ordinary to me.

    The only thing I wonder is why you altered the colours in colourscheme to different than default.

    I never did that and only had to change the Gamma settings with ledstrips as WS2801, APA102 and HD107S


    In my experience the only colour" that will draw most power thus current from the PSU is shiny 100% brigtness white

    Every other colour will draw less current, maybe for separate channel white ledstrips like the NW /CW or WW types that's different.. 🤔

    I'll beg to differ this...

    the most important is the PSU and the way how he injected the power in the strip.

    How much leds, what voltage ⚡️ and what is the power drop after 150 leds or so...

    If voltage thus current isn't correct you never get a satisfactory colour scheme out of your ledstrip.

    Settings in hyperion alone isn't going to cut it then.

    note, vitman

    A tip of mine is to lower down the brightness of the leds to 30%

    If the leds going to shine ✨️ bright whites but at lower luminance you'll know that you have to upgrade the (total)power to the leds.

    Just a tip. :)


    Ground and 3.3 from the pi pins to the LV side of the level shifter. The HV side of the level shifter comes directly off the PSU.

    Looks okay to me. Make sure common GND

    there's a lot of problems I noticed to run SK6812 directly from the PI, even with levelshifter.

    It's better to use a microcontroller like ESP32+ levelshifter and run Wled, for that ask pclin

    PSU power, is it sufficient, measure Amps

    hardware connections/PINs, check them for resistance

    injecting power at middle and end of strip,

    do that with +5volts and GND

    Ws2801 can run without levelshifter or nodeMCU.

    Just connect DO and CLK to GPIO10 and GPIO11 and make sure common GND.

    When more than 255 leds then increase SPI buffer in CMD boot line. For that look up my old posts :)


    kunstoff-led frame is my V1 build, i made a update about that one.

    i have now V2 :)

    the basic is PVC tubing ( electrical) with 16 and 19mm and metal braces on the TV, frame connected with tyrap to that

    How do access to the console on raspberry when I boot in order to offer you more info?

    if i may;

    The tuturial showed you how to alter the wpa_supplicant.conf

    i don't use that but just go to the GUI of the Raspi and alter the raspi-config

    Attach a screen to the HDMI port and see if you can login with the pi/raspberry

    then you should see a screen like this with Hyperion status running, also you see the IP adres the Raspi has received from your router.

    It might be a splitter problem

    i see its a Bidirection.

    you have two settings:

    • 1 IN 2 OUT
    • 2 IN 1 OUT

    You can't display 2 monitors at the same time, it says in manual. You can only CONNECT the monitors but not display it, you need the button to select 1 or 2.....

    you have the wrong one, look for a USB loop device

    now i want screen capture however its just displaying black, any ideas

    test Hyperion direct from the source without a tv connected, see if the webpage REMOTE section shows the capture device.

    has to be visible there with about 240 priority level.

    if it is: go to the screen up right and see whats displayed there, should be a copy of your screen.

    if not ( only black or rainbow signals) then check the HDMI cables and/or HDCP connections.

    or power the capture device NOT from the Raspi but charger or TV USB socket

    1. no you can just use the GPIO18 / PWM0, have to run hyperion under root for that and switch off audio in config.txt
    2. Look for Rullz loop usb device
    3. You need a hdmi splitter for that, if watching drm content like Disney/Amazon/HBO etc , don't forget purchasing a HDCP compliant one
    4. Smart tv's come with build in OS, with Samsung you can't with LG you can in some cases..
    5. See point 3 , yes you need that anyway. Integrated apps you can't capture on Samsung (I have Samsung TV myself so..)
    6. You don't need 4k going into Hyperion, 720p is sufficient. You can achieve with downscaling from 4k to 1080p with a good splitter/downscaler and then capture only 720p out of that signal.

    note: for splitting drm content you need at least HDCP2.2 build in the splitter, if it isn't it will go black on you or in Netflix/Disney give you HDCP warning and no playback.

    It's to protector to them you can't copy the material online streaming