Posts by Doc.Ex

That I can not answer, @Rick164 can help you there I guess. There is however a debug level entry in the config, but I am not sure how much info you can get out of it.

It captures right away. If it fails to capture it spits out an error message via a windows notification. Keep in mind that, after every change to the config, you have to restart the grabber. Double clicking the tray icon does not reinitialise with the updated config.

Do you have a multimonitor setup? check if the monitor index is correct. For one monitor it is usually 0, but try 1 as well. Also if you have multiple monitors that might cause problems at the moment.
Furthermore check if the priority value of the windows grabber is lower than that of the framegrabber in the hyperion config. lower channel means higher priority.

Yes, If midtones are blueish, the blue gamma has to be increased. But the wiki also provides test images that are really useful for calibration. Brindoschs HyperCon optimisations make calibrating a breeze. I remember when I first build my ambilight I had to manually change something in the config, save, restart hyperion via ssh connection through terminal, see what changed, repeat until I was satisfied. Just stick to the wiki and you'll get there.

No problem Another thing that would be nice, maybe also as a long term goal, would be to have the grabber as a service, so that it runs also while no user is logged in.

Regarding the multi monitor issue. I got a "D3DERR - Invalid call" (I think it was saying that)
Btw. both displays are connected to the graphics card and referring to the grabber, 0 is my monitor and 1 is my tv. When I only use the monitor (let windows disable the tv output via projection settings) I works using 0 in the config. When I only use the tv, it doesn't matter whether it is set to 0 or 1, it doesn't work for both. How ever the above invalid call error only appears when I set it to 1. A "failed to take screenshot" message appears either way.

I found the error. In the Windows Grabber config it says capture interval. I thought it would be the frequency because the default value is 60. I thought it would be 60 Hz, because that makes sense for capturing a PC screen, especially games. But it is indeed as stated the interval. That means, the default value is 60ms which is 16,7 Hz. That of course results in stuttering. I set it to 10 ms and now I have a buttery smooth 100Hz screen capture.

But I still have one problem. It only works when I have both screens turned on. Usually I only use one screen, because I am either on the desk, or on my couch. But for whatever reason it does not work when only on screen is enabled. I tried to set the monitor to 0,1,2,3,-1, nothing works and I get the failed to capture error. Any thoughts on that?

Edit: It also works when I only have the Desktop Monitor only. But that doesn't help because the leds are behind the TV. Could this be a graphics driver problem? I have got the latest driver now and the TV is connected via HDMI while the monitor is connected via DVI.

Keep in mind that your colour calibration will need adjustment when you increase the brightness again. And measure the real current when setting up the brightness value because it does not behave linearly. 10A is 66% of 15A but 66% brightness doesn't mean the leds draw 66% of maximum current. Hope that was understandable

Then I don't understand what you want to do. First you said you wanted to connect power and ground to test your power. Then you say you want to test brightness in order to not overtinker the settings for brightness, before you wire up the rest. I don't really understand what you mean by that but okay. And now you say you want to set up everything, knowing you do not have a capable PSU. Yes you could set everything up and reduce the brightness in the config of hyperion. But I don't really see the point in that, other than you can't wait any longer
Anyway, I would recommend to wait until your PSU arrives and then set everything up. You can solder a DC socket to the end of the strip, that way you can set everything up and connect the PSU when it arrives and you are good to go.

What do you mean by testing brightness? Do you want to measure the current your setup draws from the PSU on max. brightness? The thing is, when you connect the power, but no data and clock, the led controller chips have no input. So you can't tell them to go for full brightness. Usually the leds stay off or show random colours because of electromagnetic interference. A rule of thumb for RGB Leds is 60 mA per Led. So for 100 Leds, your PSU needs to provide 6A + some headroom. Maybe the Leds got more efficient by now, so usually you are save with that rule.

Yes, however without a data signal it might just light up randomly or not at all. Not sure how that would be of any use to test a power supply other than basic functionality. It would be more useful to measure the output with a voltmeter.

Oh yeah, DHCP HDCP was for the copyright protection :facepalm:
Just did a ping from my laptop that is connected via wifi to another access point in the house and had an average ping of 16ms on 10 pings. So I guess you are right. But what could it be? My understanding is, that hyperion runs my normal grabber config, but because the windows grabber sends packages to the json/proto server with a lower priority channel, hyperion uses that information instead of the usb grabber input right? Smoothing etc comes after that? Because it somehow looks like it is a lower framerate without smoothing. Another thing I could try is to comment out the whole grabber part. Maybe that interferes somehow.

Well I think the leds are just poorly optimised for human perception. Human eyes are more sensitive to certain colours. For example, we are much more sensitive to green than to red and blue. In other words, when the leds emit the same brightness for all colours, we we would perceive the colour as warm green. I guess my strip is just really bright for blue and not bright enough for red, which is why I have to adjust a lot. That also takes away a lot of dynamic range within the colour channels. I will buy new leds in the future. I am just not sure yet which ones. Maybe RGBW and I also wanna try a different layout. More like an oval shape instead of rectangular, to get a nice halo and improve the diagonal glow.

Keep in mind that those settings are specific to my combination of strip and tv, so you probably have to adjust them quite a bit. However the best midtone colours I could reach required the gamma values in the 2.3 to 2.5 region. So maybe that is of help to you.

Well my connections are all wired so at least there is no wifi involved. I can't really connect the pc to the switch unless I use the long network cable that runs from the switch to the AP. But then the whole system would be isolated from the router and nothing handles HDCP etc. One thing I could try is surpass the switch and let the pi directly connect to the AP. But then again the route would be PC-AP-Router-AP-Pi. Because to my understanding, all packages that are sent via the network have to go through the router that handles NAT and HDCP right? Or can the devices connect directly without the need of routing?

I'll fiddle around some more. Maybe I can spot the issue.

I finally got the x11 grabber working. But it is stuttering. Not like it is behind what is shown on the screen, but it seems like it drops frames. I tried 60fps ands 120fps. Same result. width and height are both 64 pixels, any other value doesn't work at all. I guess it ist just my network configuration. I use a wired access point that connects to the router which handles HDCP and NAT. So the whole route of the data package is: PC -> AP -> Router -> AP -> Switch -> RPi
Thats a shame since the colour reproduction was better with the windows grabber. But the stuttering kills it for me

@HalbesHaehnchen I tried your method. I did achieve some great brown tones, but because of the low whitelevel values, a lot of dynamic range is lost. However your method kinda works with the backlight option since you don't need a lot of dynamic range. I however prefer the leds off on black so I kept to my old settings and tweaked them until I got satisfied. I attached my config for everyone interested. Dark tones are still a little oversaturated and bright areas lack saturation but the midtones are perfect.

// Generated by: HyperCon (The Hyperion deamon configuration file builder)
// Created with HyperCon V1.03.1 (11.06.2016)


{
    // DEVICE CONFIGURATION
    "device" :
    {
        "name"       : "MyHyperionConfig",
        "type"       : "lpd8806",
        "output"     : "/dev/spidev0.0",
        "rate"     : 1000000,
        "colorOrder" : "brg"
    },


    // COLOR CALIBRATION CONFIG
    "color" :
    {
        "channelAdjustment" :
        [
            {
                "id"   : "default",
                "leds" : "*",
                "pureRed" :
                {
                    "redChannel"        : 220,
                    "greenChannel"        : 15,
                    "blueChannel"        : 0
                },
                "pureGreen" :
                {
                    "redChannel"        : 90,
                    "greenChannel"        : 100,
                    "blueChannel"        : 0
                },
                "pureBlue" :
                {
                    "redChannel"        : 0,
                    "greenChannel"        : 0,
                    "blueChannel"        : 70
                }
            }
        ],
        "temperature" :
        [
            {
                "id"   : "default",
                "leds" : "*",
                "correctionValues" :
                {
                    "red"     : 255,
                    "green"    : 255,
                    "blue"     : 255
                }
            }
        ],
        "transform" :
        [
            {
                "id"   : "default",
                "leds" : "*",
                "hsl" :
                {
                    "saturationGain"    : 1.0000,
                    "luminanceGain"        : 1.0500,
                    "luminanceMinimum"        : 0.0000
                },
                "red" :
                {
                    "threshold"     : 0.0000,
                    "gamma"         : 2.6000
                },
                "green" :
                {
                    "threshold"     : 0.0000,
                    "gamma"         : 2.3000
                },
                "blue" :
                {
                    "threshold"     : 0.0000,
                    "gamma"         : 2.3000
                }
            }
        ],
    // SMOOTHING CONFIG
        "smoothing" :
        {
            "type"            : "linear",
            "time_ms"         : 80,
            "updateFrequency" : 100.0000,
            "updateDelay"     : 0
        }
    },

Ok, hab direkt mal nachgeschaut. Tatsächlich macht es keinen Unterschied ob man 2D oder 3DSBS in der v4l2 Grabber Section einträgt. Es werden immer beide Hälften analysiert und an die Leds weitergeleitet. HyperCon hingegen nimmt bei einem Screenshot nur die hälfte auf und zeigt das Bild somit korrekt an.

Puh müsste erstmal schauen ob ich überhaupt nen 3DSBS film irgendwo hab
Ich melde mich.

Quote from Brindosch

The biggest problem of Hyperion i think are the led chipset variety. If i see for example that bad white values for ws2801- crazy. There is not much space to create colors.
But i have to admit i still fight with the new calibration even with my APAs, My old configuration had very very good color adjustment. nearly everthing perfect! Desert, yellow, brown, cyan and grey levels. Very amazing. I need to create a video of this to show you.

Yeah, for my lpd8806 I need to reduce the white levels to about 255/140/100. Thats pretty bad as well. But I guess thats the price when you buy cheap chinese stuff without a proper quality assurance. I have the feeling that my old calibration was working better as well. The pure colours weren't as good since I didnt't have the option to correct them but, apart from that everything was fine. But the same settings don't work anymore. Because of the lower gamma values the leds turn on on black. Threshold is something I try to avoid for above mentioned reasons