On my profile it states that I am Swedish. But I can’t find a way to change it. Is it based on IP or does it just pull location based on a broad area “pin”?
I love in Norway (but am American)
Can I change? If not, then it’s okay. I’ll just pretend it’s my wife’s account (She is Swedish)
Posts by BuzzBazz
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I haven’t had time to try LibreElec with h.NG0.9 yet (have a Pi4 waiting), but I ran HyperBian, found out that I just needed to “test” all the 5V strip selections, realized that none of the SPI worked and made “SK6812 CW” run on “WS28xx PWM”. It works perfect, no-one told me to try, but it worked.
Point being, I never ince had problems with HyperBian and the web interface. It just worked out of the box. I did have “problems” with the LED’s “not working”, but as stated above, “wrong” selection.
Only downside to running PWM vs SPI is that PWM takes more Amps. (I found that if the project is big enough you should always overestimate the powerdraw, just in case.)
Also China. Most of the time it’s fine, but you never know, you might get that one PSU that is faulty.
Got a 30Amp with screw connectors, soldered the power cables to quick attachments and plugged the Pi, Splitter and lights to the same terminals and it looked nice.
Fixing some things for the next build. No splitter, just a HDMI capture w/loop. Almost cheaper (if not the same price) than the capture dongle+splitter, less clutter and looks nicer. Sorry for rambling, just hope this helps. Somehow... -
you can do that with setting Signal Detection and Treshold RGB
even when the picture looks like this? -
i have a suggestion> by any chance, did the PWM lite it up like full white? If you deselect PWM they go off again?
i did the test myself on Hyperion.NG 2.08 , look at remote control and switch of smoothing, with me that was fixing the led's not lit up.
It looks like there's a bug in image softening ( smoothing) while it RUN's the led's don't do anything on SPI and WS2801.
you can't turn it off in my build, button SAVE is unlit... only possible with remote control option.
maybe this helps you, maybe not..
anyway, i go back to my first build ( sd card) with Hyperion.NG Béta 1 which runs perfectly from the getgo.Selecting PWM just fixed everything for me. Everything is working. It shouldn't, but it does XD
Only one thing I can't yet figure out: Boot animation will not work, so I disabled it and everything starts up fine. But when I power off the TV, the standby signal from the capture card has a lot of colors, is there a way to set it up so that it sets color to black or "off" when it sees a specific image for "xx" amount of seconds? -
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*UPDATE*
As I was taking a break and the wife wanted to understand what I had sunk 300$ into and no still no lights worked I had a breakthrough.
Just as a test, I selected [RPi PWM - WS281x], as it was the last thing I have not tested and it should not work, but it's a ws281x library and I wanted to do something else to explain to the misses...the lights lit up...
Selecting PWM, for WS281x leds, my SK6812RGBW leds, lit up.
The leds I've been struggling to make work on SPI, the leds I've spent more money on after the first purchase, to make them "work", now work with PWM.Why do they not work with SPI and the way they are supposed to work? I wouldn't think setting up Hyperion should feel like doing a Remote Associates Test.
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@BuzzBazz
Did you download the file "Hyperion-2.0.0-alpha.8-Linux-armv6l.tar.gz" before? Did you also run the script in the same directory?
No, But I will now
I don't know why I didn't try already, just super tired. (been at this for close to 2 months with no progress) -
Quick question#
When running option C, I get this in return:I tried to run option A at first, but noticed that it would load armv7l on a RPi0W, so I tried to force it with option C, but it looks like it still tries to load a armv7l.
Looking at the git.io page I can't find RPi0/W added, just RPi1 and then all the other RPi's. (minus the Zero/W)
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Yo TPmodding! I have now followed your video and copied everything you said, but guess what? It did not work. It keeps spitting out an error about "no such file or directory". But following your video it should have worked, right?
Code2020-11-03T17:41:55.918 hyperiond LEDDEVICE : <ERROR> Device disabled, device 'sk6812spi' signals error: 'Failed to open device (/dev/spidev0.0). Error message: No such file or directory'
The furthest I've gotten is the first LED to light up GREEN, but I think that was an accident as it also happened sometimes when I plugged the SP501 LED controller to the LEDs.
Also, I seem to have hit a slight problem where the baudrate seems to be off. You even commented on it in a different thread:why is your rate 3000000?
you sure your spi is working?
https://www.raspberrypi.org/do…README.md#troubleshooting
So I have doubled down in trying to figure it out but I can't find any logics to some of the things you say vs. some of the things you do.
So please... I have done exactly like you got angry at me for not doing in the first place. All I am after is some understanding, maybe even a slight explanation.
Are WS28xxSPI and SK6812SPI supposed to use the same library?
And if so, why is their baudrate in Hyperion set to something beyond what it's specifics that Adafruit states?
Is the settings in Hyperion not relevant to these two sets of LEDs?
I have tried using both GPIO18(pin12, spi1 ce0) and GPIO9+10(pin19+21, spi0 MISO/MOSI) but not gotten any difference in the LEDs.
Also, why is it stated in Hyperion that spidev0.0 and spidev0.1 are options, but I'm being told that there is only one SPI line, when the pi tells me there are two?
And which is which? Is "spidev0.0" SPI0 or SPI1? -
yes i see that, i have only 4 pins. Nevertheless SPI device 0 is there on schematics MOSI or MISO
Ah okay. I'll make a cable from those two to one, maybe that'll help.
I worked with combining the two data lines on my WS2815 144/m strip for the offbrand controller, so I'm guessing that it would work the same in reverse (miso+mosi to 3pin led). I'll see what happenes. -
SPI device is on diffrent GPIO's , you can see that on schematics. You are measuring on a input/output of the PI!! thats doesnt work, its not a SPI device/controller output'
i think you need PIN 19/21/23 to make it work > combination of 19/23 or 21/23 > thats GPIO 9/10 and 11
thats between a dataline and CLK line if you have 4 trails on the strip.Yeah I was going to ask, that would be if you are running a 4 pin LED strip.
All I have is a 3 pin one. -
As for to clean stuff up a little, this is what my setup looks like.
Only main difference is the Pi is a ZeroW.When googling I am told that I can not read the 3.3V from GPIO18 with a normal multimeter, but that I would need a Oscilloscope to be able to see it. I don't own that, but I agree that there might be a hardware issue.
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you know that the pin-out for a PI1/zero is really diffrent than what i have on RPI3. I used schematics from internet on PI forum and Hyperion to locate the pin-out. I don't know which GPIO it should be on a ZERO or PI1, you can find that really easy. but it seems that or; pinout is wrong/datasignals is mixed or; SPI device is NOT running or selected
Googling shows me that RPi3, 4 and Zero/ZeroW all have the same 40pin layout. So it should be the same pins.RPI3 is much more powerfull than the first type, you can look that up yourself, especially with so much led's i would go for a device that has already build in HDMI functions so setup is easy. It only costs 45 euro/dollar so you spend that already anyway
Yeah I get that, but as I was going to make this run I wasn't thinking of adding a bigger more expensive Pi to the mix.
Having said that, the ZeroW came out in 2017, so it's not that old.
Also, I'm not powering the 190 LED's off just the Pi. as far as I can figure out that would blow the tiny sucker when it's pulling close to 10Amps. But no worries, I am in hardware fix mode again to see if I can't figure out of this problem.
Unless anyone has bumped into this problem with GPIO18 barely providing 0.0025V instead of 3.3V, I might look into buying another, newer Pi.some pinouts charts are really deceitful, they will count into normal numbers ( numbering on pcb) OR GPIO pinout numbers
Oh... All I've been told was that the 40pins are supposed to be the same 40 pins for most devices. I'll do some digging. -
And Thank you. Such a simple thing made it go form software to hardware.
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i think after reading everything, you are to much into fixxing mode when its not necessary to be. If you install Hyperion.NG the correct way ( asuming that you did) it should run by itself.
See, that's the problem I have been having. I flash the SD card, run update, then upgrade, install hyperion and it fails to load. After redoing it all but with installing cec-utils after there were a ton of errors popping up with the pi and settings not set. Setting them Hyperion started, but no lights.Why are you using a "old" type of PI and not like a RPI3 or even 4, that would be my first question.
Because it was cheap and it should work with it, and as I'm trying to make it all take as little place on the back of the TV's I figured out it would be good enough to use it. Why would I want to use a more powerful board when the ZeroW should be good enough? Are there some other functions that should be ther?SPI device is only 2 GPIO pins on raspberry, they contain data and reset functions, output of those pins have to be approximately 3.3 volts.
Using a multimeter I get 4.96V on both 5V pins (pin2 & pin4) and 3.2V on the 3V pin (pin1). GPIO 18 (pin12) gives me 0.0025V.You can connect the ledstrip directly to the GPIO pins, mostly it will work without a levelshifter ( that will boost datasignal to the strip) Make sure you grounded everything RPI/ledstrip/PSU.
I've been thinking about the need for a levelshifter, but so far I've skipped it. Now that you are telling me GPIO18 (pin12) is supposed to give 3.3 volts... Why am I getting such low Voltage? This might solve my problem O_OYou can if you connected the ledstrip IN A GOOD MANNER you can test it with a testscript from adafruit, there you put in ledcount and the script can be run into commandline or putty.
That I have. Almost everything is soldered. And the few connections that are not are still well connected. No problems there. -
It works! I have got an other hdmi grabber and it recognises it perfectly. Had to set the resolution to 800x600 because of lag but nog it's fine! I used this one: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item…269583.0.0.498579f7kjaNAu
Ooh, pretty
I'll add that to my list of items for when I get a 4K upgrade. Thx.I have no idea how to do that lol, I'm sorry. I just followed the steps of dr. Zzz exactly and got some info from the comment section under that video. What is the problem you have?
My problem is that all three of the PiZero's I bought for this will not send data to the lights. I've been trying to follow Dr.Zzz's video too, but I had to do way to much addons for it to run Hyperion. That's why I was wondering if you could dump the SD card you have working so I could try that image to see if that fixes my "no lights worko" problem.
If you follow THIS GUIDE you should be able to create a "image/img" file of your SD card, then I'll send you a link to a GoogleDrive folder you can upload it to. -
Quick question Soundcrusher:
Do you have a way to image and upload your copy of the sd-card? I'm having problems myself, and would love to try running a known working setup.For the HDMI grabber problem, I've wasted cash on 2x USB to HDMI (both have a microscilin chip) and 2x HDMI splitters, where only one splitter works, and while both USB dongles are detected, they don't show any video. At least the live view does not show what is on screen.
Having said that, I have now wasted even more cash on these two, a UTV007 USB to HDMI and a Y & H capture card. Both have been stated to be "100% working with hyperion" so since I "wasted" money on the ones that *maybe* don't work, we'll see if when the new parts arrive maybe those work. One for 4K is on the backburner as I don't own a 4K TV yet, but if anyone is interested, THIS ONE should again "100% work with Hyperion". Most of, if not all info has come from Dr.Zzz on youtube and his comment section.I will try your setting as well just to see if something you have running makes my stuff running. Hopefully we can get the leds working. Trying to build a full frame for people to 3D print, get and cut some cheap planks to hang on the back of any TV.
Most of all I'm trying to get this all to work before Christmas as I'm building one for my mother. -
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Alright, I have finally got Hyperion running on a clean install of RaspberryOS lite.
I followed Dr.zZz's video, but had to edit some things.
It is now working and booting and I can access the WebGui.
There is still no power to the lights. They never blink or anything.I do have another question about this line though:
Code2020-10-25T20:41:00.640Z [hyperiond LEDDEVICE] (DEBUG) (ProviderSpi.cpp:46:init()) _spiDataInvert [0], _spiMode [0]
Last time I tested MISO/MOSI it ran on "spiMode 4", does this matter? Or should it just work as is?
Still don't understand why it isn't producing power/data to the LED's.Is there a way to produce a debug/verbose output from the Pi to add here? If that would help.
Log:
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The best thing to do is to reinstall Hyperion.
If you only operate the sk6812 as LEDs, you don't need a second instance.Ah okay, so that is why it's doing that. Thank you
I've been at it all day trying to follow Dr.zZz on youtube, but where I get HyperBian to boot and run Hyperion, Dr.zZz's tutorial will not lett me access "IpOfYourPI:8090".
Will try a few more times switching between mac and windows to see what works.
Thank you again.
