Beiträge von Akriss

    I did a few weeks ago. I bought a few thousand in various angles, with and with out streaks cut in to the lens. Just to play with.


    And honestly I like my Hyperion led's behind a defuser better then a lens. My TV is about 25cm from the wall and the led's made the light too much like a spot light on the wall. And puting back the defuser over the lens defeated the purpose of the lens.


    However for general lighting projects I like them. I've been making desk lamps for myself and for some presents for others. I like using the lens over bear led's in that project.


    But you might like them.

    Hi


    That power supply is inadequate, it's only 2.1 amp.


    I would be guessing at your actual led count. However the calculation to figure you own supply amperage needs are:
    Each "pixel" contains 3 LED's (Red, Green, Blue) each LED can draw approximately 20 milliamps. So each pixel can draw 60 milliamps at full power. So if you are using say 250 pixels at 60 milliamps per pixel that's 15 amps. it can draw at full brightness. However you also want a bit of wiggle room so a power supply with a bit more amperage would be a better choice.


    Hope it's of help.

    Hi,


    Just wanted to mention (if no one else has noticed) a small bug wile accessing Hyperion's web configuration from a remote machine. I see a partial page that mentions a 405 error. I tested Chrome,Firefox,Edge on a MS machine and Chrome on a Android tablet. But it works fine wile accessing from the local machine (Rpi).


    Many thanks.


    Edit : Nevermind, It,s my proxy server''s fault. Sorry for the noise.

    Hi,


    What is the result from this command entered on your Pi's command line "sudo find / -name bcm_host.h" ?


    Example from my Pi

    Code
    pi@raspberrypi:~ $ sudo find / -name bcm_host.h
    /opt/vc/include/bcm_host.h
    /home/pi/raspberrypi-firmware/hardfp/opt/vc/include/bcm_host.h
    /home/pi/raspberrypi-firmware/opt/vc/include/bcm_host.h


    EDIT: Nerver mind. I just did a fresh raspian install on my Rpi Zero W and pulled the latest .NG version and attempted to build. I received the same error.

    cut the 5v line of the whole strip somewhere in the middle (don't solder a corner if running a full set, or cut the very middle of the top strip when running power from the gap at the bottom if you have one).


    Then, no wires to run. Just put a capacitor on each half. You can run rather small ones, but I enjoy overkill so I put a 1000uF on each.


    Hmmm, I think I'll rework my mess.



    Thanks for the tip.:thumbup:


    The following AV male-male cable would be used to bring the signal to the video grabber:
    I really wished there was a more elegant smaller solution, anyone knows what kind of plug the lightberry uses?


    I had found something called "Straight AV RCA Male to Male Connectors" It works Very well!



    Though I also receive a seperate power adapter for the raspberry Pi, I was wondering if I could use the power adapter of the LEDs to drive the Pi. Would this cause any issues? Also I read some forum posts regarding introducing a capacitor 1000uF between the power lines and a resistor in series. Is this also neccessary for APA102-c LEDs?


    You can power everything from one supply, However for safety (more for the Raspberry's and SD card longevity) I would recommend separate supply's (keep the grounds connected, separate the positive lines)


    EDIT: I noticed the level shifter that is listed is a surface mount chip? It might be difficult to solder, depending on your soldering skills of coarse.


    Also might want to add some 18 gauge (-/+ a gauge) wire for LED power.


    Hope its of help.


    Really good list :thumbup:

    I found a camera with ok quality. So enjoy my Hyperion show off.:bigsmile:


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    Thanks for watching.

    I had that happen once.


    I had thought the 20 amp power supply I bought was adequate for my 244 apa102. Doing the math showed that 20 amps should be more then enough. However, just like you my entire led strip started blinking when at full white. I didn't have a higher amperage power supply to test with but I did have two 10amp power supply's. I had to separate the power supply's so each power supply powers two sides only and only share a ground line. It works though!


    So I guess my labeled 20amp supply was lacking a bit.


    I haven't bought a higher amperage single power supply yet. "I'm thinking Don't fix what isn't broke.":)


    a picture of my setup


    Hope it helps.

    Hi,


    A lot of what you asked can be better explained by the tutorial here ( https://learn.adafruit.com/neopixels-on-raspberry-pi ).
    I not a coder, however I think Penfold42 spi code and the code mentioned in the tutorial are similar and use the same pins.


    My 2813 is like 2812b but with double data-lines, which I tie together, so 3-lines. Are the above pins correct in my case?


    I may be wrong (never used 2813's) I believe you leave the fall over wire unconnected.


    And some more advanced info link, if the first link was trivial :) ( https://wp.josh.com/2014/05/13…nce-you-get-to-know-them/ )


    hope is of help.

    Hi,



    2. With ws281x-spi driver din on pin 19 and gnd on pin 21 for /dev/spidev0.0 (and to pins 24 and 26 for /dev/spidev0.1).


    2. Something. That's about it.
    When I put the led off (via the android app), some lights go off (some stay on) and when I put the led on, some lights go on. So I got a response. Colours incorrect. Leds randomly flashing (the leds that are on always, stay exactly the same always).


    Can anyone help me further?


    The LED strip is expecting a data signal of 5V (-/+ about 5%). The data signal coming from the GPIO's of the Rpi's (all RPi's) it a 3.3v signal. Some LED strips have a wider tolerance and well be able to accept the lower data signal from the Rpi's GPIO's with out glitching, some not.


    It seems as the LED strip you have has a very tight tolerance and is reading the 3.3v signal from the RPI's GPIO's as best it can. but is receiving a incomplete and or corrupt data stream from the signal being only 3.3v.



    Guys, I could really use your help here to get this going.


    Do I need a capacitor and/or a resistor? What values? Or a level-shifter


    Wim


    A capacitor is more for guaranteeing the longevity of the LED strip. it provides a buffer to the onrush of voltage to the LED strip when the power is switched on. (I live dangerous. I omitted it from my setup. To no ill effect, So far )


    From what I understand. A resistor is used to "clean up" the data signal. From what I gather it smooth the spikes from the data signal. I've only used a resistor when driving the LED's from a arduino. Usually around 300 ohm's (-/+ 100 ohm's) precision is not needed here.


    Now a Level shifter (or Bus buffer as I see the data sheets call it) takes a lower voltage data signal and boost's it to a 5v signal. So the LED's have a strong signal and less likely to glitch from data signal interference. I use SN74AHCT125N shifter / buffer's. Some diagrams in a previous post here ( https://hyperion-project.org/t…y-question.935/#post-6977 )


    Hope its of help.

    I have a question: is the SCART (TV (DVB-C/T/S) a must to buy if we want our LEDs work for all platforms (NETFLIX, Chromecast streaming...)? It's something I don't find... Shouldn't it work with HDMI directly to Raspberry PI?
    Thank you for the answer!


    Sorry I can't answer that. I have no experience using a SCART devise. That a European T.V. standard that Is as rare to see as a unicorn in the US :)


    If you ask that question in it's own posting in hardware support, I bet some good folks that have experience with the devise would help.


    EDIT: Looks like some good SCART info here ( https://hyperion-project.org/t…or-hyperion-dvb-c-t-s.81/ )



    I'll show you my implementation if I success.


    The developers seem to really like folks posting pictures of the setups. ;)

    @Akriss can you tell me how you did it?


    The short version I used the search box in the upper right corner and did Lot's, and Lot's of reading this forum and many other forums. =)


    However a version with a bit more detail.:
    I started with Hyperion running on a Linux PC with just Kodi and Hyperion. I started with a strip of ws2812b being driven with an Arduino Demilenove via the USB port. It was the easiest with least moving parts. Just the Arduino and the strip of LED's where needed. And Hyperion of course. It worked well enough, except colors were off a bit. However the color was not at the top of the list of how I wanted this venture to work. I needed all AV sources to have Hyperion goodness.


    So I moved to a Raspberry pi. And found a compatible USB video grabber and HDMI splitter. I was still driving the LED's (ws2812b) with the Arduino at first. But then I tried (out of curiosity mostly) to drive the LED's from the Rpi's GPIO's. I was having hit or miss attempts with LED's flickering and came to the realization that a level shifter was needed.


    After many hours of reading about what the hell level shifter are! And reading about many other peoples findings that a SN74AHCT125N level shifter works very well with the LED's being driven from the Rpi GPIO's and finding some good diagrams on wiring them up, I tried and it was working well. except for the off colors.


    After a week or so of fiddling with the calibration of the colors and getting nowhere I decided to try another type of LED strip. After finding a good sale on a strip of APA102c's (I believe I paid $41 USD for 5 meters of 60 led per meter strip. Local seller as well.) I could not resist. Since I previously tried a level shifter with the ws2812b's it was just a matter of minor rewiring.(some diagrams to help in a previous posts here https://hyperion-project.org/t…lease-help.887/#post-6601 and here https://hyperion-project.org/t…y-question.935/#post-6977 )


    And out of curiosity I also tried using an Arduino and no level shifter with the APA102s's. It did not work well for me an found it needed a level shifter as well. So I went back to the Rpi's GPIO's and LVL shifter to drive the LED's.


    Here my self pat on the back/boasting of sorts here ( https://hyperion-project.org/threads/upgraded-thanks.820/ ) That's of the apa102's. My first attempt has some details here ( https://hyperion-project.org/t…n-project-thanks-all.697/ )


    The ws2812b's did not go to waste. I set them up on a second TV. That setup consistent of a Rpi 3 with the latest Libreelec and the latest Official Hyperion release. Since I had a Arduino wired for the ws2812b's I used it and the plugged it in to the Rpi's USB port, for the second setup.



    I hope its of help.

    You could connect a level shifter to both end's of the data/clk line. Then option 1 would work.


    I haven't tried this myself, but have read some tip's describing this as a fix for long runs.


    Hope it help's