Posts by Akriss

    so the level shifter is only needed if i power it all off the single large PSU?


    Some have problems with flickering and other led strangeness without a level shifter, some don't. That being said, the led is looking for a 5v data signal (+/- about 5%). And the Rpi's data pins are 3.3v. Some led's have a wider tolerance of the data signal and handle the lower voltage data signal better.


    does it matter which GPIO pins i connect too?


    Yes, absolutely. Some helper diagram's below.


    Oh,and in that first diagram, think of the battery packs as your wall wart and . .err . .Big Bertha power supply.
    I'm making the assumption that your using a led strip that has a clock and data connection. If its a one pin led data strip, then omit the clock line.


    Hope it helps.


    P.S. good tips and stuff on this page https://hyperion-project.org/t…-ws2801-ws2812b-apa102.8/

    Powering ether way is OK. I like separate power because my Rpi is on 24/7 useing a 3 amp wall wart. It draws just a few watts. And my led's are powered with a much higher wattage drawing power supply that only on when the led's are in used
    A helper diagram (By Christian mosser). showing powering all from one source.


    You can try without a level shifter, it works for some folks. I recommend using one though. They're inexpensive.


    Hope it helps.

    So I switched pin to GPIO 10 (PIN 19) and then LEDs were working but not properly because it started blinking white every few seconds.


    Do you have a resistor on the data line? A resistor on the data line usually fix that.


    I'm running out of ideas how to help.
    I have a Rpi3 with libreelec 8.0.2 and the release version of Hyperion, with ws2812b's led's. However I'm using a aurdino nano clone to drive the led's. I completed that setup about two weeks ago. It works. I downloaded a fresh copy of Libreelec and Hyperion/Hypercon then. *Shrug* However, I like a good puzzle.

    I had that happen to me one before. However, when I rewrote Libreelec to the SD card and tried installing Hyperion again all went well. Strangely enough the SD card failed about a month or so later. So perhaps in my case I was just seeing the death throws of the SD card.


    The Libreelec team recently updated their “LibreELEC USB-SD Creator” ( libreelec.tv/downloads/ ) It might work better then the Noobs SD creator.


    Some ideas that may help, I hope.

    Is it a coincidence that baudrate of the arduino is 115200? I had to set the baudrate of the pi higher.than that. Maybe that's the problem?


    I believe that's just the upload speed of the aurdino sketch.


    And I'm running into these warnings about memory. I can't figure out how to fix this:


    From what I can glean from the screenshot (sadly I only speak/read two languages, English and Bad English) That message is just a warning to let you know that the available memory is low. . just a warning nothing more. .. that is if I gleaned the screenshot correctly...

    Is it possible to connect via wifi? (that's the reason I bought a arduino uni wifi).


    hmmm. .. Maybe. . I know of a few Dev. arduino wifi boards that do work, However, I not not recall reading about uno wifi boards working in the thread where I learning the basics of Hyperion / wifi / arduino. Perhaps I missed it. The thread I read this is here ( http://www.forum-raspberrypi.d…n-wifi-led-controller-udp ) My German language skills are . . .well . sadly non existent, so I used Google to translate. That thread is a bit daunting at 27 pages of info, however if your goal is to do hyperion over wifi Its a must read!!




    've got problems with leds flashing as described here:


    Got pic's of how you are wiring it up?
    maybe ws2813 led are more sensitive and need a level shifter driver them?
    I never had to mess with any code to fix flickering leds... well besides the baudrate that is..
    Any flickering I had was a result of sub par wiring or solder joint. Or not all ground wires are connected as one.

    I never used a Uno. so not %100 sure.


    A quick read from here (http://www.arduino.org/learnin…ted-with-arduino-uno-wifi ) leads me to believe that you are perhaps running a full desktop on the RPi and have the Arduino IDE on the RPi as well. this looks like its loading some sort of WIFI passthru to emulate the Arduino on a port via WIFI.. . I Think. . .


    May be, if you have a spare SD card start a fresh install of raspian OS with no desktop (desktop not needed if just running Hyperion.) and just Hyperion. No Arduino IDE or anything but Hyperion. It may help to really start from scratch.


    That's the key bit of info.

    Quote

    But what's the proper way to increase uart on raspbian jessie? I read several, with one warning about voltage.


    I believe simply changing the "serialRate" in the sketch well have the desired affect.


    Code
    // Baudrate, higher rate allows faster refresh rate and more LEDs
    //#define serialRate 460800      // use 115200 for ftdi based boards
    #define serialRate 115200      // use 115200 for ftdi based boards
    //#define serialRate 500000         // use 115200 for ftdi based boards



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    But THIS app let's me know if I'm connected or not, while the official app doesn't!


    sure it does, If my hyperion is not running or not running correctly the app tells me it can't connect..?


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    I don't understand because it seems to cause random data being sent to MY leds.


    can be caused by loose connections or very log data wires picking up interference. Or missing a common ground connection are the most common causes.


    Quote

    And should I use adalight, or ws281x-SPI for my ws2813 as suggested elsewhere on this forum?


    I have never used a ws2813 strip of led's. However from what I have read the ws2813's use exatly the same as ws2812's. So use adalight if connecting the leds to an Arduino. Or ws281x-SPI if connecting the led's to the gpio pins of the RPi directly with out an Arduino.


    The only difference between the two led strips is the ws2813 has built in fallover support for bad led's (if a led go's bad on a ws2812 strip every led after that led well fail. Not so on ws2813 strips.


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    And how do I figure out what port I should use? Not ttyUSB0, but what then?


    one way of doing this is: On the Rpi, from a console type: " dmesg | grep usb " once without the Arduino plugged in to the usb port. Then once more after plunging in the Arduino. That should show you info on how the Arduino is seen by the Rpi.



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    And a question: how does the arduino "know" what sketch to use? I uploaded a couple of sketches to the arduino. Or should the .ino file have the name of the 'type'?


    The last sketch uploaded with the Arduino IDE software is the active sketch.


    Hope it's helpful.

    Your doing good. A lot of the hyperion setup will require you to do exactly what your doing now, puzzling it out for your self.


    Quote

    Is it then indeed the baudrate?
    "You will need an Arduino Uno R3 or better (anything capable of > 115200 baud rate)" (https://hyperion-project.org/t…-ws2801-ws2812b-apa102.8/) like Rick164 writes?


    Most modern Arduino's can handle 500000 baudrate.


    Quote

    When I try to connect with android app "hyperion-Lights", I get "hyperion server offline".


    I have never used that app. It kind of looks like a ripoff/clone of the Official Hyperion app. ( https://play.google.com/store/…=nl.hyperion.hyperionfree ) or non free no ad's ( https://play.google.com/store/…yperion.hyperionpro&hl=en )

    Basically yes. But (yes theirs always a but) you should keep in mind that there is a right way and a way that well burn your house down.


    Have a look at the you tube link below, it's describing the proper way to wire a power supply.


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    I'm no expert. however I think any grounded 3 prong type found at your hardware store should work.


    I had a spare computer power supply cord I cutup and attached. It works well.


    Your link is unique to your browser. I would remove it and find the generic page that everyone sees.


    However, If the supply is just shown as a shiny metal box with a screw block. Then yes you well need a cord.