Beiträge von Akriss

    Try grounding unused inputs on the shifter, here is a example.

    (node mcu pin = Rpi pin)


    However, I've was never able to get a good working ws281x led with wires >0.5 meters.
    The closer the led strip to whatever is sending the data, the better.


    A Arduino works good as a data relay if you can't avoid a long run of wire between Rpi and strip. The data is sent via USB to the Arduino, then and the Arduino (that is a few cm away) translates the data and drives the leds. The wiki has some info on the Arduino setup. The forum as well.


    Hope is of help.

    Usually when apa102 leds fail ,be it a user error or random failure. The led strip will work up to the failed led and nothing after the failed led.


    In your case it seems to be the first led needs to be removed and then rewire power and data lines to the second led in the string.


    Hope it's of help.

    So for my Rpi 3 and apa102 , I need to "level shift" gpio pins into CI/CO,DI/DO. When you are referring to signals, is it the signals that communicate what color each led turns?


    Yes.


    Do I still need to run another wire across the tv for 5v and gnd?


    Here it a picture I came upon that should help.

    The battery can be seen as any power supply.


    I saw I needed a breadboard, is there a specific one i need?


    No, just make sure it has a pitch (hole spacing distance) of 0.1, most are.


    A good post is https://hyperion-project.org/threads/level-shifter.623/ for good info.


    A photo of one I cobbled together.


    Hope its of help.

    EDIT: Sorry I'm a little under the weather today. I miss read. And Thought you where using WS281X leds.
    You are not. So the below ( "Yes. Detailed HERE." ) AND ( "SPI pins (pin 19) are the best (IMHO). Use the WS281X-SPI driver in Hypercon".) is wrong. Sorry.


    WS2801 leds need the SPI line. no other pins to use on the PI. =/


    There is a program to test the function of SPI pins HERE.




    May it be that the GPIO of the RPi got damaged?


    Could be. But if it boots, chances are it good.


    Can I use a different GPIO for testing


    Yes. Detailed HERE.


    What pins where you using?


    SPI pins (pin 19) are the best (IMHO). Use the WS281X-SPI driver in Hypercon.


    Hope it of help.

    IS PRIMARY WIRE OK? it said on packaging for automotive use


    Wire is usually universal, the gauge is what matters. automotive wire is usually stranded wire as opposed to solid wire. stranded wire is flexible, solid wire not so much. In short it's ok.


    will I also have to ground the TOP LEFT corner?


    No, one ground wire is fine. Be sure that it's a good connection, loose ground (or any) wire can cause flicker.


    Some things come to mind in troubleshooting:
    Very long runs of wire between the led strip and the driver can act as a antenna and pick up stray signals that interfere with the led signal.
    Most micro controllers output 3.3v signals. The led strip are expecting a signal closer to 5v. And if using long runs of wire. Long wire add resistance and a subsequent voltage drop to the signal. A level shifter can be used to bump up the 3.3v signal to 5v.
    Having a strong signal to the leds can overcome interference.
    Lots of good posts on this forum on how to hook up a level shifter. I prefer 74AHCT125 level shifter.


    Hope its of help.

    Hi,


    There are some limitations when using ws2812b strips that are not very well covered by tutorials.


    The library (jgarff/rpi_ws281x) Hyperion uses to drive ws2812 led's has good info and fix's detailed HERE.


    When using PWM pins you well need to disable the onboard RPi audio. fix detailed on that page.


    I would use SPI pin 19 for the data pin and the ws281x-SPI drivers for Hyperion. Less overhead and does not cause audio problem. And follow the SPI tips from that page.


    Hope this helps


    PS put some tape on that loose 5v+ wire. don't want to short something. Nice clean build.

    it's probably the "1st LED offset" need a negative value.
    Then the led should be rearranged in the correct sides.


    Add the LED count from one vertical side and one horizontal side. Then add that the value to the "1st LED offset" as a negitive value (From the above config it look as if you have 5 leds on the vertical and 10 on the horizontal, So it look like the value for you setup is "-15", I could be wrong though)


    Hope its of help.

    Hi,


    The install is different for Libreelec.
    Libreelec has the own build/version of Hyperion & Hypercon Reference: https://libreelec.wiki/main_page?do=search&id=hyperion+


    Hyperion is installed with a few clicks of the remote through the add-ons section within Libreelec/Kodi,
    The configation program "Hypercon"(note: this will not install Hyperion, that done through add-ons) . Lebreelec maintains there own version, I would use there version of Hypecon.


    That's the basic' to get you started. If you run in to trouble post back with any error messages and config files so people can help better.


    Hope its of help.

    I'm not a windows HTPC user, so no first hand experience. But I'v heard good things about THIS.


    As long as the media is DRM free, it should work great.


    Hope it helps.
    EDIT: Sorry this requires a RPI as well. I didn't realize . I should read more =)

    I looked at the link for the grabber. It has good reviews. However it does not specifically say in the description it's a UTV007 chip.


    Their is another that specifically said it's a UTV007 chip ()


    On a side note. I noticed the usb grabbers run very hot. Some hot enough to make the plastic case pliable. I have attach a heatsink to all usb grabbers I use, just for caution. I have not lost a grabber yet. This is a picture I took a year and a half ago. That grabber is still going today and it's been on 24/7 since that picture.



    I Hope it helps