Beiträge von davieboy

  • No matter what I try, LEDs don't light up...ideas?

    idk man, you seem adamant your wiring is good, but i would of expected to see this with the wire unplugged from the gpio - from start of wire to the first connection - something close to zero maybe 0.3ohm, at the 2nd led id expect it to be higher as your also measuring the resistance in the 1st led, touching both leads together should give you 0.00 ohms but there's usually resistance in peoples leads, so you'd take that figure an remove it from the other readings to give you the actual resistance, Again 5 or 8 before the . is resistance in the wire - note my readings would be in Ohms and not Kili or Mega ohms, there is no signals being measured above your purely checking the wire and 1st connection to the strip as any resistance will play a massive part in the data signal you are sending down that wire.


    makes no difference if kodi or retropi as it still doesn't work, that was just a quick and easy change of platform to see what happened and it points more and more towards your wiring and or hardware. I take it setting the effect was not a success either

  • Cant access Hypeion UI

    Cool, you might want to uninstall and clean the files from that just in case anything is different

    Code
    sudo apt-get --purge remove hyperion


    Then run the install again with the v6 version, Hopefully all will be working :thumbup:

  • No matter what I try, LEDs don't light up...ideas?


    Well 05.xx - 08.xx doesn't really mean anything without the other figures!


    Here's a better idea if you have a spare SD card and 15 mins
    Flash the latest Libreelec image https://libreelec.tv/downloads_new/
    When it boots complete the setup and enable SSH when prompted, when done SSH into the Pi as you done in DrZ tutorial


    Run this 1 command taken from @Paulchen-Panther 's Awesome Libre-Elec Tutorial - Its the easiest and fastest way to get Hyperion, Excluding flashing Hyperbian


    Code
    wget -qO- https://git.io/JU4Zx | bash


    It will do all the work and reboot the Pi when done.


    Go to the PiIP-Port and If the effects still don't work after setting them up form scratch there's a good chance the 5-8 resistance is the problem or your not setting something up correctly in the UI

  • Cant access Hypeion UI

    sweet, so like running the wrong architecture
    and @Hocus you probably installed that same version each time?


    Code
    uname --m


    That should match the version you got from the Release Page


    If so try this one just in case you have half installed packages

    Code
    sudo apt-get install -f

  • Cant access Hypeion UI

    If you can SSH into it then you know the ip of the Pi so that ip with :8090 in your browser should take you to the GUI but your service is your problem here, its not running or in a limbo state of trying to start, maybe @Lord-Grey or @TPmodding have encountered questions about Active: activating (auto-restart) before.


    but without saying its your fault it could be something your doing on each install without realising it esp when i worked on the pre built Hyperbian image, you could try these in the meantime.


    Code
    sudo systemctl stop hyperion


    Code
    sudo systemctl disable hyperion


    Code
    sudo systemctl enable hyperion


    Code
    sudo systemctl start hyperion


    wait a minute before running this one

    Code
    sudo systemctl status hyperion


    If it still shows
    Active: activating (auto-restart) (Result: signal)
    What do you get when you run this


    Code
    ls -la /usr/bin/hyperiond

  • No matter what I try, LEDs don't light up...ideas?

    Thing is @TheCoolDave , you shouldn't need any commands, If Hyperion is running which it probably should be after a reboot if all is well plus if you can reach the GUI then it is, so it really only leaves configuration or wiring and If you are unable to set an effect and see the results your only left with configuration and wiring.


    Go for the easy one first then, out of curiosity whats in your config.txt

    Code
    sudo cat /boot/config.txt


    If "dtparam=spi=on" is not there run this command and retry Hyperion Configuration


    Code
    sudo echo "dtparam=spi=on" >> /boot/config.txt && sudo reboot


    .

  • No matter what I try, LEDs don't light up...ideas?

    Try another GPIO pin, make sure your using the GPIO number and not the physical pin number, change it in Hyperion and see if it works.


    As you have a meter you could quickly check the signal wiring, set it to ohms, unplug the signal wire to LEDs from the gpio connector and gently touch the the metal connector with 1 lead then touch the other on the data connection of the 2nd LED, what resistance do you get there, also do it at the first connection? and do another with just both meter leads touching each other. See what readings you get and hopefully rule out the wiring:thumbup:

  • Cannot access Hyperion using web browser

    Zitat von Hocus

    Hi all,


    I am a total noob to all of this, but I'll try to explain, I had hyperion installed and everything was working great until my Pie died. So I ordered a new pie and went through all the install steps again from the dr z video. However for some reason I can not get into the web browser. So far I have tried installing Hyperion NG and the last 3 versions and get the same result. When I did the hyperbrian image I was able to get into the UI but I had a capture card issue and the lights were not responding. Can someone lease help, I have been scouring the web and forums for 2 days now. When I type in hyperiond I get illegal instruction


    You should really copy your message and paste it into a new thread https://hyperion-project.org/f…e-support.9/create-thread
    Include: Since new Pi have you ever been able to access the GUI? Is the Pi connected to the net? Paste the URL your trying to access. :thumbup:

  • RPi4 + LibreElec 9 + Hyperion - Alpha 10 + WS2812B + IR-Receiver + UART + Docker - Pi-Hole - Netdata


    Absolutely hopeless in Illustrator and that would involve a VM or worse - a reboot into windows :roflmao: plus Inkscape does everything


    Yes its a bit of both mate, My current setup still uses the manual switch and K2 is unused but as an extra Relay would be super useful for killing the supply to the ledstrip with minimal effort so i included it and faded them out and added a note to show its possible to peeps, you'd need to run a wire to the GPIO to control the switch though. When im building my case I will move to that exact setup because if the Pi is not there I don't need power to the strip and its the cleanest way i can see.


    Controlling the relay - a simple true or false, 1 or 0, high or low to that pin is all that's required so very flexible in how you use it, mine goes like this


    Remote Press -> Ir Receiver (detects hex code) -> Ardruino Micro PRO (takes hex and converts it to keyboard keystroke) -> Pi via USB (Pi thinks someone just pressed a physical keyboard button) -> Libreelec (takes that keyboard press and remaps it via keyboard.xml to run a script) = Some script just ran to pull the GPIO to activate or deactivate relay


    I explained the UART in a post above mate but ill give you a few real life examples of it in action, the config section is just to enable the interface - This would be the alternative method of connecting an Ardruino to a Pi without a USB cable, Instead of the Ardruino I am going straight into the TV's serial line as it allows full control of every single thing I can get to in my TV menu without having to go near a menu button, even picture modes and TV retune if required.


    I only use 2 HDMI sources so i have 1 button on the remote that i want to press to change to the other Input, I don't want to use the specific TV remote as its got too many buttons i don't use, plus then its maybe 3-5 presses to get to the source i want to be on, time is too precious for all that jazz ;), instead i control it all with my media centre remote. 1 press of 1 button, the sequence above happens, then it runs a script cycle_source.py Then the following happens...


    First it uses the serial line to find out exactly what source the TV is currently on,
    If its on kodi it enables the K1 relay via GPIO, Changes the TV source via Serial Line, disables the GRABBER and enables the V4L via Hyperion JSON-RPC


    If its on the other source it does the opposite - so each time button is pressed it cycles the source, capture devices and LEDS to suit.


    Another script runs on another button to enable or disable the LEDDEVICE depending on current state via JSON-RPC


    Another runs when TV power button is pressed and turned off we steal that code too and run another script to kill the relay and disable all the grabbers and LED's





    Yeah spot on mate, I solved that ages ago and forgot to remove it :LOL:

  • raspberry pi 3+ - hyperion

    Congrats @filipe teixeira yes that pic is the front of the tv, If you look in the classic Layout section, that may be the easiest way for you to define your layout, you basically tell it how many you have at each side then the use the input position to tell it where to start from, so rather than setting it up how Hyperion tells you, you basically do it how you want then tell Hyperion where it starts from via the input position, and use the reverse direction if you have the rotation going the other way.


    Still no use to you with the whole netflix situation tho, sry man

  • Removing LED chip from strip?

    Well if you cant fold it without covering 1 led on each corner, would it really matter if 1 on each corner is there and working but not visible? id say no, quite sure the other leds close to it will compensate it enough.


    If your contemplating removing the chip in question then you would need to solder or use some sort of connector to join it to the previous LED anyway so you'd be as well just soldering them in the first place.


    I really do think both would result in the same overall result as if you fold and cover the corner LED it will be there but not visible but if you cut and solder at the corners, the space required at the corner to make the connections, once completed you would probably have the same amount or less by the time your finished.

  • Help! Newbie trying to setup Ambilight projector

    there are tons of post on this forum regarding the capture cards @stewartfamilydad , so at the very least you should be able to get something out of your current card if it is installed correctly, might not be the desired resolution but youd think you would at least get get something, unsure how it will handle 500 of the WS2812's but even if you can get some working it gives you something to go on or a troubleshooting path to find out why the others are not lit


    The UTV007 i noticed that when looking for mine but saw posts saying not to use and others saying its working fine so its really six and half a dozen, personally id go with what you currently have or at least try and get it up and running to see if it will do the job then go from there.


    Is Hyperion detecting your current card in the Configuration -> Capturing Hardware section?


    Does this command show the card

    Code
    lsusb


    or


    Code
    v4l2-ctl --all

  • Enabling lights from external devices

    did you do a forum search, lots of posts for home assistant, scripts, relays and switches, the crudest easiest way i came up with was a bash script that disabled the LEDDEVICE when screensaver activated, just depends on your setup really and how you want it to work.

  • RPi4 + LibreElec 9 + Hyperion - Alpha 10 + WS2812B + IR-Receiver + UART + Docker - Pi-Hole - Netdata

    So after recent setbacks I seem to have a stable setup now with a decent HDMI splitter - over 1 week with everything working as it should - result.


    The build has escalated since the original throw it together and see what works but couldn't be happier with Hyperion setup.


    I have been building schematics since day 1 mainly out of habit as it makes it easier to improve and diagnose faults later on down the line, now that I have checked the completed circuit I will share it. High Res pic attached


    After doing the final tests the overall power consumption is way lower than expected, <5A total draw from everything so at least the Higher PSU future proofs the build for better LEDS in the future without having to rewire things - new strip and bigger fuse :).


    WS2812IC - is the LED's I ended up with, unsure if they are a cheaper rip off or what not but either way they are very bright and can light up the room, colours are decent, I plan to upgrade for better LEDS with 2 data lines when TV is due a replacement. but for the sake of throwing some figures out there to explain the over exaggerated low fuse capacity on the circuit here is my findings ( I settled on 5A and will go 1 size up if it ever blows but TBH going by current consumption I cant see it happening and will probably reduce it down to 3A to protect the LED's).
    Using Hyperion remote i set a solid colour at full brightness on all LED's this resulted in a 1.6-2.0A overall current draw, When i set all the LEDS to White or as close to white as possible for the LED the total draw was 2.024A the biggest consumer was Red it consumed a huge 2.05A :LOL: so in Theory these can technically be powered by a semi decent 5v phone charger.


    With TV grabber, Platform capture or a Hyperion effect the total current draw ranged from as low as 0.5 - 2.05A depending on the amount of lit LED's at any given time but consumption is lower than the solid colour.


    Pi4 power consumption was very minimal during basic checks with 2 USB2 devices connected, 1 being video capture operating at 1280x720 and tested again with platform capture operating at 1920x1080 and at the very most the total Pi consumption was around the 1.6A when fully loaded but will spend a day running specific tests on that to see where it really demands the power, I have a sneaky suspicion that the official plug will only be required if using 2x USB HDD's while reading or writing to them but i will test that soon.


    I will post the scripts used once they are finished as there are a few issues i am resolving but overall its working great :thumbup:


    Current Parts List:
    Pi4 model B rev 1.4
    3M WS2181B
    HDMI Splitter
    20w switching PSU
    2 chan 5v Relay Module
    Micro USB bare metal Lead + USB-C adapter
    USB2 1080p - Video Capture Card
    Ardruino Micro Pro + KY-022 IR Module
    USB - Serial RS-232


    Consumables:
    2 Core wire - 1.5mm - 2.5mm
    Heatshrink
    Glass Fuses
    Micro Toggle Switches
    Fuse Holder Leads


    Total Build cost of around £130 - bulk of that was for a decent HDMI splitter (around £45 inc delivery)



  • Correct connection of the Level switch on the RPI4


    Or you still have that option ^ which allows you to use the 1 PSU, proper power port which will give you the inbuilt protection and remove the undervoltage warning.


    Providing you are not connecting a lot of high demand USB3 devices then it should be more than capable of running the pi4 without any problems as 2.4A is still a lot of current, ( most pi's wont use anywhere near 2.4A) and if you are not using many devices then it should solve your problem and meet your requirements.