Beiträge von davieboy

  • Help! Newbie trying to setup Ambilight projector

    there are tons of post on this forum regarding the capture cards @stewartfamilydad , so at the very least you should be able to get something out of your current card if it is installed correctly, might not be the desired resolution but youd think you would at least get get something, unsure how it will handle 500 of the WS2812's but even if you can get some working it gives you something to go on or a troubleshooting path to find out why the others are not lit


    The UTV007 i noticed that when looking for mine but saw posts saying not to use and others saying its working fine so its really six and half a dozen, personally id go with what you currently have or at least try and get it up and running to see if it will do the job then go from there.


    Is Hyperion detecting your current card in the Configuration -> Capturing Hardware section?


    Does this command show the card

    Code
    lsusb


    or


    Code
    v4l2-ctl --all

  • Enabling lights from external devices

    did you do a forum search, lots of posts for home assistant, scripts, relays and switches, the crudest easiest way i came up with was a bash script that disabled the LEDDEVICE when screensaver activated, just depends on your setup really and how you want it to work.

  • RPi4 + LibreElec 9 + Hyperion - Alpha 10 + WS2812B + IR-Receiver + UART + Docker - Pi-Hole - Netdata

    So after recent setbacks I seem to have a stable setup now with a decent HDMI splitter - over 1 week with everything working as it should - result.


    The build has escalated since the original throw it together and see what works but couldn't be happier with Hyperion setup.


    I have been building schematics since day 1 mainly out of habit as it makes it easier to improve and diagnose faults later on down the line, now that I have checked the completed circuit I will share it. High Res pic attached


    After doing the final tests the overall power consumption is way lower than expected, <5A total draw from everything so at least the Higher PSU future proofs the build for better LEDS in the future without having to rewire things - new strip and bigger fuse :).


    WS2812IC - is the LED's I ended up with, unsure if they are a cheaper rip off or what not but either way they are very bright and can light up the room, colours are decent, I plan to upgrade for better LEDS with 2 data lines when TV is due a replacement. but for the sake of throwing some figures out there to explain the over exaggerated low fuse capacity on the circuit here is my findings ( I settled on 5A and will go 1 size up if it ever blows but TBH going by current consumption I cant see it happening and will probably reduce it down to 3A to protect the LED's).
    Using Hyperion remote i set a solid colour at full brightness on all LED's this resulted in a 1.6-2.0A overall current draw, When i set all the LEDS to White or as close to white as possible for the LED the total draw was 2.024A the biggest consumer was Red it consumed a huge 2.05A :LOL: so in Theory these can technically be powered by a semi decent 5v phone charger.


    With TV grabber, Platform capture or a Hyperion effect the total current draw ranged from as low as 0.5 - 2.05A depending on the amount of lit LED's at any given time but consumption is lower than the solid colour.


    Pi4 power consumption was very minimal during basic checks with 2 USB2 devices connected, 1 being video capture operating at 1280x720 and tested again with platform capture operating at 1920x1080 and at the very most the total Pi consumption was around the 1.6A when fully loaded but will spend a day running specific tests on that to see where it really demands the power, I have a sneaky suspicion that the official plug will only be required if using 2x USB HDD's while reading or writing to them but i will test that soon.


    I will post the scripts used once they are finished as there are a few issues i am resolving but overall its working great :thumbup:


    Current Parts List:
    Pi4 model B rev 1.4
    3M WS2181B
    HDMI Splitter
    20w switching PSU
    2 chan 5v Relay Module
    Micro USB bare metal Lead + USB-C adapter
    USB2 1080p - Video Capture Card
    Ardruino Micro Pro + KY-022 IR Module
    USB - Serial RS-232


    Consumables:
    2 Core wire - 1.5mm - 2.5mm
    Heatshrink
    Glass Fuses
    Micro Toggle Switches
    Fuse Holder Leads


    Total Build cost of around £130 - bulk of that was for a decent HDMI splitter (around £45 inc delivery)



  • Correct connection of the Level switch on the RPI4


    Or you still have that option ^ which allows you to use the 1 PSU, proper power port which will give you the inbuilt protection and remove the undervoltage warning.


    Providing you are not connecting a lot of high demand USB3 devices then it should be more than capable of running the pi4 without any problems as 2.4A is still a lot of current, ( most pi's wont use anywhere near 2.4A) and if you are not using many devices then it should solve your problem and meet your requirements.

  • Correct connection of the Level switch on the RPI4


    Totally man, Just thought you'd of appreciated some Pi4 figures, Id imagine you'd need to be running 2x USB3 hard drives or smart charging as you mentioned to pull anywhere near the 3A, mine was peaking at the 1.6 with video grabber.


    I will vacate now :) just thought it was worth a mention.

  • Correct connection of the Level switch on the RPI4

    I agree with @jeroen warmerdam as he mentioned the USB thing previously an it got stuck in my head as i power mine that way. So i had to do some checks just to make sure I was not victim to that, It just kept niggling away at me so the meter came out.


    Official specs:
    Micro USB / Adapter limits the Pi supply down to 2.4 - 2.5A instead of the official 3A if using the proper type C connector, This is to allow you to use your older pi charges on it. So its semi intelligent, you either get 3A or standard Pi current.


    I ran tests on that earlier and with 2x usb2 devices running and the GPIO in use it pulled a max of 1.6A with both in use, I didn't try charging a smart device I will later to see where it maxes out at.


    In theory you could also run it that way as long as you are not heavily dependant on usb3 devices being used on the pi that would take the total current draw to around the 3A mark.


    All you would need is a spare micro USB cable to sacrifice and a micro to USB-C adapter

  • Cannot access Hyperion using web browser

    Ah well looks like you got some work to do.


    no as @bamathrasher said, inject another supply halfway along the strip, easiest way if your already powered would be where you power the first section, the easiest place would be the very end of the strip that has no connections on it - pop a 5v feed down there (backpowering) and remove the 2nd corner power link leaving only the data and earth links connected - each power feed should now be powering 2 sections each and not connected to each other - Power or earth direction doesn't matter as long as data lines follow the correct rotation, you can also inject your 2nd feed into any section of the strip so don't panic if the corner is difficult to get into just go to the next one down. :thumbup:

  • Only first LED turns on

    gutted to hear that man, glad you got to the bottom of it though,
    On the plus side, you wont make that mistake again - Unfortunately we need to make them to avoid them in the future.
    Did you have any fuses fitted?

  • Uncontrolled LED flickering - tried almost everything


    Sounds like a valid enough answer and impressive that it got explained in simple terms in 2 lines :)

  • Access Hyperion dash over Wifi?

    That's a weird one, your not running any funky internet are you, shared routers, college networks or such?


    As much as i hate asking these types of questions, but you do have Wi-Fi configured on the pi, right? so when the cable is unplugged you can see the change in IP address in your router as the wireless adapter becomes the new connection and should get a different IP to the wired connection.

  • Newbie help

    yeah go that way :LOL: show it how much you love it and get it a fuse too :bigsmile:


    Think there's been a few posts on PSU's recently, think the laptop brick style have been a hit or miss, best to go for a decent Switching Supply to avoid any random power issues down the line, Have a look in the forum but i think Meanwell has been mentioned a good few times.


    You can install Hyperion and input the amount of LED's and it will give you a Max size of PSU you will need, If you go to the next size up from what it recommends, you'll know you have more than enough juice, always better to have too much than not enough as it will be more efficient hopefully giving a longer lifespan and cost less to run, You could even run the Pi off it too and add other things to it if you decide to take it up a notch later on.


    hope that helps, looking forward to seeing your setup :pirate:

  • Newbie help

    hang on, You may still need some of them but would be more beneficial to get a soldering iron and practise soldering just to ensure the best connection, Corner connectors would save you soldering but may cause problems with intermittent bad connections so its really down to your skillz and confidence


    Defo check other peoples setups :thumbup:

  • Access Hyperion dash over Wifi?

    If you can get it via the cable you should be able to get it on Wi-Fi if they are on the same network, when you connect via the cable and go to Configuration->Networking Services, What's ticked in the Network section?

  • APA102 LED Responsiveness

    I'd also like to agree to your first reply, paragraph 2 :roflmao::LOL:


    It probably could handle the LED's perfectly but struggling with both, It reminds me of the encoding/burning DVD days, the better the spec the faster it took, maybe slimming down your o/s may help you get a slightly higher resolution but its a big jump from what your currently getting to what you ideally want, esp if your running the PS5 at full 4k you'd want to get it a bit higher.


    As @jeroen warmerdam suggested a Pi3B or Pi4 would be a massive increase and are around the same price, Pi3A had the older quad core and 512mb ram so for the extra £10 the Pi4 would be the better option as you get more hardware for the cash.


    Good Luck