Weird run those commands again next time it drops off and see if they still show, but going by that it appears that the o/s is recognising the grabber and Hyperion knows about it as you can select it from the list.
post some info regarding your o/s and attach some screenshots of your configuration as its a bit strange that you have the same problem with 3 grabbers, sounds more like a config problem somewhere rather than a hardware fault, does platform capture work as expected?
How are you powering it up? only reason i ask is my usb port appears to power up a hard drive for the tv to record on with no problems but caused nothing but intermittent issues when powering up a HDMI splitter, makes no sense but runs perfectly when its own power supply is used, so worth a mention.
Does this command return anything
v4l2-ctl --allIn Hyperion -> Configuration -> Capturing Hardware -> USB Capture
Does it list your device in there when you click the drop down to change it from automatic to manually selecting the grabber?
What operating system are you running?
ahhhh i see what you mean now, nicely done man esp with the wrap round rather than cutting corners, nice touch with minimal soldering 
might investigate a frame when tv is replaced and i change to 120 /m, but current setup appears to be doing the job as i got a fair distance from the wall to illuminate :LOL:, luckily the rear curves lets me get a good position with minimal effort, could probably be the best unintended feature of the tv :roflmao:
out of curiosity, how are you powering the device?
do you see it when you run?
lsusbIm sure i saw a detailed post on this forum on troubleshooting USB grabbers but I cant find it but I remember seeing a post from @Awawa somewhere that went into more depth.
very nice mate, also does the frame act as a diffuser as well or is it just to block and redirect the light to where you want on the wall?
yeah true on the settings, everyone will have different values depending on the setup.
very nice Jeroen :biggrin:
be nice if someone threw a quick guide together on where to start :roflmao:
Im at the stage where my wall has more colour at times than the TV
thanks Jeroen , Ill check it out. Going to spend some time with the Signal Detection settings later see if i can finetune them a bit
Weird, I've attached what I have as troubleshooting this is outwith my experience but you could define your card rather than using auto and go from there so Hyperion knows what it is dealing with rather than figuring it out first.
Stick with it an you will get it, The reward is awesome
could be mate but no way of knowing until you share :LOL:
So your using the raspberry pi and the LED's are connected to the GPIO18?
Can you screenshot the Configuration -> Capturing Hardware section?
The delay, Is this happening on platform capture or USB capture or both if you have USB capture device?
need to post some info regarding your setup mate so people can offer advise
What version of Hyperion are you running?
How are you controlling the led's?
What do you have set in Hyperion -> Configuration -> LED Hardware Section?
Hi
Does anyone know of any commands that can give any sort of output to if the USB capture device is actually receiving any data.
Long story short my LG TV does not play nicely with the CEC commands, its a total hit of miss if any of the information will be reported correctly, 9/10 times I get unknown source -1, segmentation faults and just crap results, spent the full day the other day testing diff O/S's, HDMI ports and cables but no joy.
1 thing i did find that I found no other information on the net, was the following
Go in the Input section of the Tv then into Edit Inputs, find the source then Set up Universal connection
Only after doing that did the TV start to report actual proper status form the CEC adapter, but after 2 consecutive scans it went back to normal, anyway that section may help someone with a LG tv 
But yeah if anyone knows any way to quickly probe the card and report something back that would be ideal as I want to have a more elegant way of controlling the LED's depending on what is actually being watched, It currently only uses the USB capture card for Tivo and Hyperion isn't the quickest at detecting no signal to disable the capture card.
Using the CEC scan would be the best way if it constantly reported the correct source but with the unpredictable results I need to find another work around.
any ideas or do you know if kodi JSON-RPC can provide any info on the active source?
lol yeah I thought you meant you were going to use the pi as the main earth point for it all, All i could think was poor lil pin.
Remember and practise your soldering on numerous bits of wire before you touch the led strips, they can be quite intricate
think we got it covered mate :bigsmile:
So many questions :LOL: tough call tho, making do with what you have may be cheaper but more expensive in the long run if its not got the power to do the job..
Slightly confused by your electrical calculations they worry me :LOL:
Regardless if you use 5v or 12v leds you will need to work out the max current that the entire strip can draw at max brightness (Current - in amps) and pick a power supply above that rating - for extra protection you can fuse the main supply to the leds so the strip cannot draw more than the max amount.
You could use a 12v supply on a 5v strip but you'd need to drop the voltage down but the supply still needs to have the required Ampage to power the strips in the first place, you can also use the same supply to power the pi but you would need to add an extra 3amp on top of what the led strip requires so your other power supply's may not be up to the job.
Once you have the correct power supply you can worry about the volt drops, each time you DO NOT use a soldered joint or add in a bad soldered joint or any sort of connector you run the risk of adding in points of failure, weak points or bad connections etc and that is what causes the actual volt drop in the circuit.
Example would be a 40 strand wire - 39 strands are cut and only 1 remains intact, If you put a meter across that you may see next to no resistance but put a bulb at the other end and try to power it and its a different story - The current simply cant get to it fast enough to light it, same scenario with twisted wires, clip on connectors etc, it may not happen straight away but it's bad practice and can cause more problems later on as metal expands and contracts with heat so it could cause intermittent problems.
So ideally solder any joints and add in additional power supply/earth connections to the strips to prevent volt drops across the circuit, regardless if they are 5v or 12v leds
Don't use the pi as the only earth point for the leds, that's a accident waiting to happen, you need to earth the led strip back to the psu and tap into it for the earth on the pi GPIO
Hope that helps you in someway, Good Luck
Nice Post wladi, Yeah defo answered a few of the questions i had floating about
Yeah you can run them directly from the Pi https://pimylifeup.com/raspberry-pi-led-strip-apa102/
Hyperion has the RPi SPI settings for configuring it and would probably best using the PI3 as it has the better hardware spec than the others.
Trial and error on your grabbers until you find one that works or gives you the better viewing experience or you could look through the forums and get 1 that others have had good success with.
Good Luck
Its all good 
Sweet, excellent lil bits of kit aint they
yeah, least it wasn't powered by the gpio or he wouldn't of had the fuse protection, at least he had the patience to wait 2 days, id of binned it after 20 mins of not switching on :LOL:
not at all Jeroen, it was in no way meant like that bud
Usually on the configs the commented lines are ignored completely so only actually come into action when uncommented or added to the end of the file without the #
+1 Jeroen - sure you know what you are doing guy?
Yeah no need to touch the config everything except the last 2 lines are ignored.
The way I see it, you have 1 out of 3 things
1- Fried Pi
2- Fried LED Strip
3- Bad setting somewhere
Id do the quick and easy one first and pull the SD card and put 1 in that has Hyperbian image on it just for ease of use and see if you can get the leds to light up on GPIO12, if no joy after that id look to try and power the LEDS another way to see if they are working, then move onto the pi, but you cant really use a multimeter on the PWM pins, ideally you'd want to scope them and check the wavelength pattern as the meter is too slow to check it.
If i was to hazard a guess id put money on the pi being fried, but ill keep my fingers crossed for you that its only a bad setting somewhere and hopefully a fresh flash of Hyperbian will solve it.
Good Luck
lol jeroen I was mid reply with the instance bit
Just to confirm as you never really mentioned, have you ever had the lights working? or did something go wrong with them at some point and you suspect you burnt out gpio pin18 as a result of it.
Is it a fresh install thats thrown problem after problem or was it smooth sailing?
whats in your /boot/config.txt?