Beiträge von davieboy

my bad i never noticed that part you powered it externally,

Its a tough 1 to judge, is it flickering or is it reacting to the dodgy video source Hyperion is picking up.

your going to need to do some digging on the device, see if its all installed and supported and what it actually supports then tweak your Hyperion info from there. You could try enabling debug logging in the Dashboard but chances are its going to point the finger at the capture device

do you know how to run commands on the pi terminal?

no idea, might just be because of the device, just giving you some suggestions as it looks power related, personally id power the capture device from the PSU rather than the Pi, why give it any extra stress than it needs and if your device draws more than 1.2A the Pi3 will never power it as it has a combined shared amount of 1.2A for all 4 ports

https://www.raspberrypi.org/do…usb/README.md#powerlimits

Have a look at the Interoperability between the Raspberry Pi and USB 3.0 hubs section underneath, you might need to plug something else in to see if it works any better, you never know

Good Luck

checkout the Hyperion Dash -> Configuaration -> Capturing Hardware

you might find if you lower the resolution things will work smoother, but that section should help you tweak things

lest you got it all on the 1 psu so that should help , when yo pull the wire on the gpio the leds stay lit to how they were berore the pull so sounds about right.

what are the power recommendations for the new capture card? only thing i can think of is power usb port is limited to around 2.4A im sure, depending on how hard your pi is working you could be using maybe 1-1.5A straight off the bat, leaving you around 1A ish for the capture device.

Or the brick is putting out too much voltage or cant cope with the demand.

or the actual hardware

What PSU do you have?

how are you powering up the loop thingy? where does the other end of the usb plug go

nice post, you should elaborate a bit the on the arm_freq and force_turbo as those commands used to destroy some older pi's and invalidated warranty

your essentially overclocking the pi and with the extra heat it requires extra volts and cooling - lil disclaimer to let peeps know, esp if no heatsinks are fitted and if the pi is in a std plastic case

slimming the o/s down or upgrading the hardware would be a more permanent solution imo esp for long term use

Jaume you should of created your own post man to keep it specific to your prob but have a look at this post RE: which MCU I think your earth sounds about right as long as wled mcu is earthed with the leds you should be good, so many options to sync multiple devices etc with it and you couldnt wire each additional strip to the same earth as the pi server - wouldnt make sense.

Good Luck

go for a small 5v MCU with usb adapter, then 2/3 wires, earth and signal/s to LEDS - board powers up via usb

I was impressed with the Micro Pro board, very small and compact, no wifi, FastLED works well with it and all for under £4

I dont think you can get away with controlling the LEDS without an additional device as in directly from a USB cable so a small compact MCU will probably be less hassle all round.

I wouldn't be too fussed about the actual bandwith as surely its all local traffic? more making sure the router and ESP board supports the same protocol like B,G N etc and it gets a good signal in its final location.

Cant give you exact figures but heres my pi Ethernet adapter for the last 2 hours (pi runs hyperion & Libreelec 24/7 and uses Ethernet then router Wi-Fi to D1 Mini)

LEDs with USB capture @720p are active until just before 23:50 then LEDS with platform capture have been on since 23:50 @1080p then @720p from 01:00 ish, you can see the episode changes where it drops, LEDS were turned off just after 1:15am where you can see the larger spike on the graph, so comparing that to the previous 15 mins or so on that episode, there's not much use at all - esp as the majority of that bandwidth is the actual episode going to media centre.

its in WLED settings mate not Hyperion

so pulled it apart again as WLED with the wemos was a cool setup, rewired the shifter and prob still there, ran back through it all again and in Led Preferences

Enable automatic brightness limiter -> LED voltage (Max. current for a single LED)

it was on the default 55mA - with previous current draw tests on the leds being under what i expected i dropped it down to 5V efficient just to see and the prob was 90% sorted - ended up with the flicker like the way it is if smoothing is not on, popped the shifter back out, everything still running fine, with supply to the LEDs fused i disabled the Enable automatic brightness limiter completely and zero flickers or strobing.

Might help someone else out experiencing similar issues, as after seeing a lot of other posts and bug reports on other sites I was ready to condem the board as a poor quality clone or look into powering from the 3v line on the pi to see if that helped any - Glad i didn't need to go down that route as usb is so much neater

Weird, I get that if on platform capture i get kodi's screen whether its the dim screensaver i still get the blue background, same with paused film it shows whatever is on the screen.

usb capture is the same as i only have cable box on that and the only thing i can think of that differs between us is i define my source, if i switch to kodi a script disables usb and enables platform so at any time there is only 1 source active, if platform and usb are both disabled Hyperion shows whatever effect is selected in Hyperion UI - kind of doubles up as if not watching tv, music will be on so the effect is quite cool

Your settings may need tweaked check out Hyperion Dash -> Configuration -> Capturing Hardware -> Instance Hardware

If you want Platform to be priority make sure than numbers lower than USB capture

no wladi 3-4 inches extending from original 3 pin plug - plug was removed and decent 1mm core (slightly thicker than original wire)

PSU -> LED is Fused at 12A and suitable for 30A

It was up and running fine on the Adruino - If anything i removed maybe 3 inches or wiring and solid solder to the board - even reflowed it earlier to make sure, When i added the shifter it just done a rainbow effect but I could have wired that wrong but i re-soldered the Adruino back in as FastLED was working

https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/issues/230 came across that and a few other posts like it so will do some further reading and go back to it

tbh thats why i mentioned libreelec way as thats the 2nd easy way

you can install it on whatever you like mate, however if you only need Hyperion id use Hyperbian just for ease of setup OTB

20amp PSU sitting at 4.98v, This only happened since the D1 was added.

1 more question, everything is up and running but have noticed when the majority of the screen is white the leds flicker and quite noticeable esp when using 1080, I don't have a level shifter or resistor in the circuit but either have 1 here somewhere or still to be delivered in the next few days (ive lost track), u think that level shifter will fix the problem?

I ran through the effects and when a lot of white and red is involved the flickering starts

also the D1 Mini is connected to the Pi via usb, grounded to the leds and using same earth as the pi.

Spot on TPmodding ill see how it goes, looks like its worth it for the effects and setup/update alone, pretty sweet so far, you should do a sticky promoting that method as setup was a breeze esp the config section in Hyperion.

What i did like that I was unaware of was the out the box Wifi, I didnt realise it essentially created its own network that Hyperion could use so could be totally seperate but yeah adding it to the main one makes it do more stuff

Is the Wifi side of it reliable?

Just weary about any wifi traffic and delays etc compared to a physical connection

I stupidly ordered the wrong MCU for another project and got a PRO Nano 5v 16MHz with no micro usb, main prob is my serial to usb cable is being used to control the TV so either way im unclipping the wiring at the back of the TV so while im in there......

Current Setup:

174x WS2812B

Micro Pro Clone 5v 16MHZ

FastLED

Everything is working sweet and really impressed with it but my other prob is I have 2 of those Micro Pro clones connected, 1 for LED and other for IR and when I rebooted the other day the LED wouldnt work, its quite hard to check output paths when both have identical names but it turned out Hyperion was trying to output to IR Micro PRO instead of the other one, so ideally switching 1 of them out just to make it easier to identify at a glance.

I picked up a few other boards so have a few options

ESP8266 ESP-12 WeMos D1 Mini

NodeMCU V3 ESP8266 12E

Geekcraft UNO R3

Would i benefit from using any of the others or am I at the limitations of the LEDS on the current board and should leave it as it is?