Posts by D34DC3N73R

The short answer is yes. But you may need to experiment with the settings depending on your setup.

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??? ????? - Pls use good HDMI2.0 cable less than 15m/ 49ft. >> Connect 4K TV to splitter OUT 1, 1080p TV to OUT 2, set OUT 2 SCALER ON>>Get 4K HDR D-o-l-b-y Vision & D-o-l-b-y Atmos in sync, set EDID No.31 via micro-usb by PC, same setting for 1080p 120Hz.>>Set HDCP bypass by PC. NOT support 4K60hz & 1080p120hz work in sync.

I personally didn't have a DV tv at the time I was using it, so I can't say for certain.

I used to use this one and it worked well with CEC + HDR if you follow the setup instructions correctly.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WR7KP1B?tag=hyperioforum-21

I use home assistant, but if you can set up automations and read the state of the tv, you can use the json api to call effects/colors and clear them.

https://docs.hyperion-project.org/en/json/

What type of PSU are you using? is it powering the pi as well as the LEDs? Are you sure all your wires are secure? What's the AWG of the wires you're using and how long are they?

Is the hub powered separately? Is the grabber powered separately? If neither are powered I would guess that it's too much power draw for the w0 usb port. I would also suggest trying a different usb cable for the nano, just to rule that out as well.

Not sure how many LEDs you have or what type of PSU, but I would recommend ditching those barrel connectors. They're only meant for low amp projects. I've had one burn out on a 10 amp project before.

You absolutely should be powering it from both ends. With that said, it should still work, just gradually dimming if only powered from one end. Have you gone through hyperion settings and set the controller type, LED count, etc? If you have, and it's still only lighting up the first LED, I've seen that happen when the first LED has gone bad. That can happen because of shorts, unsecured connections, improper wiring, etc.

It sounds like it was probably my post you had read. In my case, the distribution block was necessary because I wanted to keep my power supply on ground level and run cables through my wall and out to a mounted tv. The length ended up being about 10 feet. Power will drop quickly if trying to run through small wires (that's also the reason you get power drop within the actual LED strips). That meant I had to use 10AWG wire, which is rather thick. The distribution block allowed me to run the final legs in a more manageable 20AWG.

I chose to run power to the front and back of each strip on all 4 sides. If I was cutting corners, I would probably just run power to the front and back of the top and bottom strips, and just power the side strips from one end. But what's 2 more runs in the grand scheme of things?

I also went with a 30 amp PSU (334 ws2812b). It's better to run PSUs at 60-80% for efficiency. You don't really want them cranking out 100% all the time.

Here's my setup on an 85" tv https://imgur.com/a/Yp0Y0St
You likely don't need the capacitors and resistor with a good quality PSU, but they definitely won't hurt anything. They're there as more of a failsafe and probably wouldn't be needed with a properly wired system with good connections and a PSU without a voltage spike when powering up.

You could also use a controller like an Arduino nano. They're cheap and you set the number of LEDs in the sketch that's loaded in the Arduino. LEDs beyond that number don't light up.

Technically it's possible, but you'd still need a zigbee controller. For instance, I have a conbee II USB stick in my home server. I run software called deconz that lets me add (pretty much) any zigbee device, including Philips hue. It was discovered in the Hyperion Philips hue wizard automatically.

They're just disabled by default. I haven't tested them, but just enabled the entities you want to use. I would guess they're disabled by default because most users won't have the need to switch the components on and off.

They give that warning because lots of cheap PSU's can have a voltage spike on power up. Which could damage LEDs if no capacitors are used.

Need more info. You have 256 WS2812Bs right? What power supply are you using? Is it also powering your pi? What gauge wire are you using and how long are the wires? How are they connected to the LED strip? The issues you have seem more like a hardware/ connection issue than software.

Looks good man. Glad you got it working.

6awg will never work to solder directly to the LEDs. The wire would be almost as thick as the strip itself. That's why I went with a distribution / bus block. You bring 6awg (probably fine with 10 awg if less than 7 feet) from the PSU to the block, then spread out from a central point to all the corners using a more appropriate gauge. The amperage will be split equally between the wires off the block assuming they all have the same resistance. IMO you should ditch the barrel connector entirely. Those are only rated for low amp projects.

You have 60 amps going through a barrel connector? Can you give me a link to your PSU? I had a barrel connector die on a different setup with only 15 amps. I'd definitely suspect that as the culprit. Does your setup work at all at the moment? If so, next time it's flickering and goes out, check the temp on that barrel connector. If your setup doesn't work right now, replace the barrel connector and see if that helps.

What wire gauge are you using? Do the wires themselves get hot? Smoke is never a good sign

Is your pi3B+ powered by the same PSU? If not, you need to use a common ground. You'd need to connect a ground from the PSU, to one of the ground pins on the pi. The next thing I'd check is the signal. When the flickering happens, do you see any change in the LED Visualization preview in the Hyperion UI? And finally, how far away is your PSU from your LEDs? What gauge of wire are you running? Is it the same coming from the PSU and the wires breaking out to the corners? If you didn't use a distribution block, how did you splice 8 wires from 1?

Yep that's exactly what I have. Make sure you're using an appropriate gauge of wire for the distance. It's probably overkill, but it's been very solid.

Absolutely, but to offer a counter-argument, quality has become less important vs eliminating manufacturing costs. If they can cut some corners and the product still "works" but is cheaper to produce, that's almost certainly the direction they'll take. And, how much quality will remain based solely on reputation? Thinking I don't need to test anything, I've got a meanwell PSU! There is a lot of variance in the manufacturing process, and not all PSU's (even the same brand and model) are created equally.

To summarize, yes, you'll probably be fine without using caps and a resistor if you're very careful during installation, and are using quality parts/LEDs. But on the flip side, they're so easy to integrate that if they save me having to chop off an LED, or make the LEDs brighter in the center of my strip for that split second, then IMO they're worth it.