Posts by TheCoolDave

    it does sound power related, I ran mine from an old 2.5A phone charger and they worked fine - Turns out they do not draw anything higher than 2.1A....


    I am running the PI and the LEDS off the 30a power supply, I did try to use the OEM PI power supply (I did order it when I got the PI), in case of a lack of enough power, this made no change.


    The wiring on the LEDs are perfect(no other way to put it here, I know my last set what good but, not perfect), corners were using the no solder connectors and I even soldered them. Power goes in both sides with with steady voltage all around, checked every point with a voltmeter. This was all setup, soldered, everything OFF the TV, the last one I did was on the TV(what a PIA) This was my primary double check when was seeing LAG using GPIO-18. I've gone through this many times, just to be sure.


    I'll check the power supply tonight. Maybe the power supply is a little low ? I know there is an adjustment on it. I guess that is the next step.. If it's outputting a little lower voltage it would cause these problems.


    Do you think the random shutting off is due to power or timing ?

    well on my ws2812b setup Red is my biggest consumer of power if thats any help, but yeah that is strange what it is doing in the vids.


    few things tho, if you decrease the overall brightness down does the flicker still happen on the red screen.


    Have you tried a fresh flash on another SD card?


    Thanks for the idea..


    OK, Played with brightness for a bit, jumped to 60%, 80%, 90%, 91%, 93%, 95% and 99%....


    Dropped to 90% after all, the flashing has appeared to go away and it still is plenty bright (YEA !!!) over 95% it comes back


    The question remands here, I had a 5v 10a power supply running all these, never a problem with it, I NOW have a 5v 30a power supply, should I be dealing with power issues on the LEDs ? As ground and 5v go directly to the LEDs from the 30a supply....I got a larger supply so I didn't need to deal with issues like this.


    I still get points where the LEDs just shut off, and when the screen changes (like another view) they come back on.


    If you watch the videos I posted again, you can see it on the bottom left of the video where it's clearest. Light will be going around and it gets to that corner and all the lights go off, this could happen for split second, or I have seen it as long as 2 seconds... Light should be going and nothing.


    Lowering brightness did no change here. Any idea on that one ? Should/could a screen/LED refresh rate be boosted up a little here so it might not do this ?


    The SD card is brand new SanDisk (100mb/s rated) 16gb card. I ordered it just for this project as I could not leave a 64gb or 128gb one for just this project as the PI will only be used for this. During testing this was rebuilt a few times. I did try it on the other card (64gb as well, no change)

    Ok, power cord searches to test to see if adding power to the UNO R3 helps with this flashing... Seeing that the UNO can use anything from a 7-12v as long as it's a center positive. Found a few that would fit. Nothing helped...


    here is what I tried


    1. DC 12v 0.3a
    2. DC 12v 1a
    3. DC 12v 1.5a (1.5a to 3.25a)


    Not of these had any change at all. I'm thinking about trashing the UNO but, is there a sure way to get rid of all lag ?


    Or does anyone have an idea, or have seen this before ?


    Here is 2 videos I took so you can get an idea on what is going on here(I'll take them down in a few days)...


    https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmHdwDuUvhmjg_VBvvvu1ZQ5l2f5Qg?e=DgXOMy


    https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmHdwDuUvhmjg_VCIoppG2nZ6lfUKg?e=OZYQ4n


    If you watch carefully you will see at some points the lights just stop working for a second or 2, This happens when watching videos as well. On a full RED screen, the flashing is crazy, and in playing back video, on lighter backgrounds flickering happens..


    Don't mind the mess of wires, this will be cleaned up soon once this project is final !


    I don't want to drop the resolution to 320 X 240, I want to run it at least at 720p so I can get at least SOME detail...


    Any idea ??

    your not having much luck @TheCoolDave , was hoping to hear you were sorted after using that sketch.


    So white is still there with diff sketch so were left with signal to UNO or LED's again :LOL::mad:


    ok if its not doing it when connected to the GPIO, it must be voltage related as Uno has an extra few v's over the GPIO, did you fit a resistor into it? Could it be something that simple?


    Yea, just not having any luck here... What a PIA LOL


    No resistor in my setup... As for the UNO, it's plugged into the PI...Hmmmm... The PI has the Video capture and the UNO... maybe it is a power issue... Maybe ?


    Power supply has plenty of Amps left...


    It will start to flicker on brighter images but, a whole screen of RED, wow, the whole room is flashing !


    This setup has been sitting behind my TV with wires all over the place for months, just trying to get it working solid (including 4K HDR movies, that is another thing I have deal with), then I was going mount it to the back of the TV and clean up wires...


    Sigh that is not here yet !

    OK, got a chance to play with this. Nope, didn't change anything. Well it's flickering a lot slower and really, really laggy now.


    I assume the lower baud rate is the reason for this. I did try to chance it back to 500000 and its not laggy any more but, still flashing like crazy on bright images...


    What could be doing this ? I cant see that it's a power issue, I did pick up a 30a power supply, even when I setup the LEDs, it's saying I should have 16.7a power suppy, so plenty left.


    This was working perfect (besides very laggy) when using GPIO-18 and I did plenty of tests with bright images and bouncing things to see the lag...I never noticed flashing on it before I went to the UNO..


    Thanks, I'll try that, To be honest with you, I only really knew about using WS2812B as that is all the YouTube videos go with. If I knew about APA102 before ordering them, I would of given them a shot...


    I'll try this later today just because I am busy on a project this morning...


    Thanks !

    congrats on the delay mate, Does tweaking the smoothing help any?


    I tried a bunch of things, lowed the res, the little lag that is left it helped but, doing tests, a red screen leaves the whole room flashing, it's pretty bad.


    which sketch did you use for the arduino?


    I kind of loosely followed this video as he setup the same type of layout. I was reading that some changes needed to be there for 255+ LEDs... this was a updated script for it.


    (4) DIY Hyperion Ambient TV Light Project (Raspberry Pi + Arduino) Complete Setup - YouTube


    This is the exact code I used in my UNO...



    As I am using 255 LEDs, no more, should go with a different code here ?

    Hey all !


    In my last thread I, replaced the LEDs. I was using GPIO 18 but, found the delay too much and parts of the time, the lights would just stop working for like 2-3 seconds, and then "catch up". I rebuilt, added in the UNO as the controller and lag seems almost gone. The stop working problem is still there a little but, the flashing on bright images is just crazy.


    A full screen of RED will make the whole room flashing because of this... White, yellow, does the same thing but, mixing darker colors seem fine, no flashing till a video with a very light background and flashing returns.


    This was not happening when I was using GPIO-18 connection but, the LAG was unbearable.


    Hardware for reference...


    Connectors and wires...
    I used these for wires and the connectors to the end to avoid soldering wire to LEDs..
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod…tle_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    Used these for corners but, soldered them on so they would not slip off (common with these connectors)
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod…tle_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    Hook up
    HDMI from Denon AVR 2nd(set to mirror tv) room out to HDMI grabber, that goes into the PI, USB out of the PI goes the UNO. The data connection is on PIN 6 on the UNO, The connections on the UNO are soldered in, this is ground and data.


    The LEDS have power/ground going at the start and the end of the LEDs, so no low points in power in the LEDs. I did use the wire that came with the wire connectors, the start of the LEDs are connected with the factory connection.


    Power for PI is run off the 30a power supply (but, also tried the original 2.5a power supply with no change). Ground from the 30a power supply is connected to the UNO and PI. Confirmed connection on ground from the UNO to the middle of the LEDs with no problem (voltmeter)


    Hyperion settings are nothing too crazy, Adalight for type of controller, 255 LEDs, and GRB Order.


    Capture settings are
    Device Resolution: 1280 X 720
    Frames per second: 60
    Size decimation: 8


    Here are the logs. Anyone see anything that could be causing this flashing ? Common fix for this is for a common ground, I did that.


    OK, installed the LEDs on Saturday. The problem that I am seeing now is the LEDs a very, very LAGGY. I did go into video capture settings and changed the resolution to 320 X 240 60fps as people said to do, in the preview window, it's just a blurry blob of color. This helped a lot but, still laggy there.


    A lot of the time it will look like timing is fine but, all of a sudden it stops(no color) and then catches up. Should I add a Arduino instead of running to the GPIO port ? Will this solve the lag issue here ?


    I saw this thread and looks like this could fix this..
    Ardruino or GPIO | Hyperion - Forum (hyperion-project.org)


    Also, does anyone know of a budget friendly capture device that will do 4K 60 AND HDR (4K video is fine but, as soon as I play HDR content, the LEDs go off) ?

    OK, today the LEDs came in, This time I did things a little better, experience here is the key. I won't be soldering directly the strips (if I can completely avoid it), I am going to use the built in clips and solder the wire together with heat shrink it. I am going to use the corner pieces but, I will do a little solder in there, and heat shrink every end. It will be easier due to having my LED count already there.


    Well after soldering a lot cable, so I could give myself room to work and be long enough for the back of the TV, I plugged in the LEDs and booted everything up. The LEDs lit up ! Not sure exactly what caused the current LEDs go bad. They were all working before, sigh...


    I need to go out and get some double sided tape and some other things before mounting but, looks good so far. Maybe later this week.


    I do see one annoyance, when there is no signal, there is a rainbow color that shows, like this...


    Capture6.JPG


    How to you keep the LEDs off when this is up ?


    Thanks for the info. I came on to this project via YouTube, one of those things I have always wanted from seeing a actual Philips Ambilight TV in person, many years ago.


    Every video out there, that I have seen, suggests to use ws2812b LEDs, I've never saw anyone use anything else. Trust me, I looked over a lot of videos to find out EXACTLY what I needed to do here and what is the best hardware. Also looked to find possible issues as well, reading though many comments on it.. I like to do a lot of homework on new projects that I don't know a lot about.


    If I saw your post yesterday, I would of looked at other LEDs. It's too late now that they have already shipped. :(


    Thanks again for info, you learn something new every day ! If I end up doing this again, or this does not work, I will look at ws2801 or APA102 LEDs...

    Its looking that way man, I'm out of ideas and swaying back towards hardware :(


    I know. What the heck? Tried Different PI, reinstall the OS about 5-6 times. Settings should be correct, video image and LED placement look perfect, Voltage is there, Tested different cables to the LEDs data, power, nothing. This all worked perfectly before what could of happened ?????


    This is what I used to setup the orignal system..


    (2) NEW! DIY Ambilight Tutorial, For ANY HDMI Device! - EASY!! The Mad Scientist - YouTube


    So, it's not the PI, It's not the cables (as I replaced all and even tried different ways to run the cable), it does not appear to the software.


    Only other thing to try is LEDs... $43 later, it will be here tomorrow. Not putting on the TV, will be bench testing before doing anything.


    At least one thing, I had the white LED strip, the back of my TV is black, so I ordered black ones... If anything...sigh..


    To think, this is a video I took of my system 2 weeks before I attempted the "upgrade"( a few people we asking about what it looks like)... Not sure what could of happened here..


    https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmHdwDuUvhmjg_U6o49yzySrwcmLxw?e=1zVggG


    Thanks for everyone help, a lot of good ideas here, maybe it will help others


    I guess I am done till new LEDs show up :(


    On the Latch time, I adjusted from 0 to 30ms, no change.


    Only time LEDs have lit up from doing this way, is when I shut power off on the device, red goes around to a bunch of LEDs. Nothing more. Running a simple color effect does nothing.


    I double checked voltage on the LEDs, getting 5v across the LEDs fine. Checked at the start and it was around 4.8v at the end of LEDs. I ran a jumper with clip directly from GPIO-18 to data pin on the LEDs and rebooted (just to make sure all wires are connected with no issues), no change, no LEDs are lighting up.


    I did order new LEDs from Amazon with all connectors and that, I will test tomorrow when they come in. Not on the TV but, out of the package, if they light up, my LEDs are fried for some reason.. I am running out of options to try here. Not really sure where to go next on this...


    The LED device is on


    Capture5.JPG

    @TheCoolDave a picture speaks 1000 words :thumbsup:


    https://hyperion-project.org/t…p-ideas.11332/#post-33997


    We could all spend days beating about the bush as you have already been at it for weeks, but everyone's hardware and setup is different and without actually seeing the hardware or config/logs you are just throwing mud at the wall and hoping one sticks - never a bad thing but you have to draw the line at somepoint


    Here is images of my setup, I really didn't change anything anywhere else. I am setup on GPIO-18 tried a few others, noticed that 16 could not be used via the log.


    Let me know if you need any other settings
    .1.JPG 2.JPG 3.JPG

    maybe i break in in this conversation, but did you ( i dont see it mentioned) power your ledstrip FROM BOTH SIDES??


    so beginning and end connected to GND and 5 volt line


    No, Just one point of power. All 3 go in on one spot. Should I TRY to run from the start and the end ?


    This all worked before like this, so it's why I am not trying rewire the LEDS.



    I tried a 2nd PI no change. Here is the logs from booting up with the 2nd PI. No noticed differences between logs for mine or the one I borrowed.


    I am going to remove the 2nd PI and put it away, I don't want to damage or anything else, it's from my office.


    Checked everything, enabled USB capture, confirmed in preview window that live TV was playing and the led layout look as it should.




    I'll enable tonight while doing other testing. Man I want this to work. I did buy replacement LEDs but, if I run into the same problem, I will just return them...


    I have the App on my phone from my last setup, I'll try it too...


    Did get a PI I could borrow for the weekend...

    idk man, you seem adamant your wiring is good, but i would of expected to see this with the wire unplugged from the gpio - from start of wire to the first connection - something close to zero maybe 0.3ohm, at the 2nd led id expect it to be higher as your also measuring the resistance in the 1st led, touching both leads together should give you 0.00 ohms but there's usually resistance in peoples leads, so you'd take that figure an remove it from the other readings to give you the actual resistance, Again 5 or 8 before the . is resistance in the wire - note my readings would be in Ohms and not Kili or Mega ohms, there is no signals being measured above your purely checking the wire and 1st connection to the strip as any resistance will play a massive part in the data signal you are sending down that wire.


    makes no difference if kodi or retropi as it still doesn't work, that was just a quick and easy change of platform to see what happened and it points more and more towards your wiring and or hardware. I take it setting the effect was not a success either


    The only reason why I feel the wiring is good, is because it was all working perfectly before. No issues anywhere. I did try to run a new data cable and I didn't get any change in the issue. I disconnected the wire from my Arduino from the last setup, soldered an end on it, and connected it to the PI. No major pulls or damage could of happened.


    When I did my checks with the voltmeter, I was confirming continuity around the whole LEDs. I could confirm from the end of the cable that plugs into the PI, all the way to the END of the LEDs. This gave a good signal. This was the extent of the testing I did before. I just kind of figured this would be enough. I'll be honest, I got a new meter and still trying to figure it all out, I'll try to grab my old one and try again.


    I'll try to find a clip so I can clip on the LED in assorted spots. Just taking an end and touching the LEDs in assorted spots did nothing(on the center pin). I was assuming I would need to reboot the PI to check that. Or should it be always sending data and if I touch another spot, I should see a result ?


    I might just spend the $35 buy replacement LEDs just in case. I wanted to avoid that, it will take a few hours to rip it all out, measure everything out, corners, never mind my TV has a ribbed pattern on the back of it, so I need to buy heavy duty double sided tape to hold it... The LEDs are not sticky enough to stay on. I will bench test to see if the LEDs light up before changing it all out


    It's appearing, its' cables (hard to see at this point) or LEDs themselves are the issue (also kind of of hard to see). It could be the PI, I might be able to borrow one.


    I'm kind of wishing I never touched it and just dealt with 1080p video with it....sigh..

    Well 05.xx - 08.xx doesn't really mean anything without the other figures!


    05.xx - 08.xx was from GPIO-18 to the data cable.


    I tried it, at the END of the 253 LEDS, I tried there, the data was between 03.XX and 04.XX. So it's seems it's getting signal, I could see it being a little weak towards the end of it...


    I also have run a larger cable from GPIO-18 and cliped it on to the data pin on the leds with no change. Just to make sure that is running fine. Did this just as a quick test.


    Remember, this all worked perfectly before and I am using the same exact cable, ACCEPT I soldered in a end so I can plug it into the PI, it's a very solid connection, I assure you. This was used with the Java app before and I did have a Arduino in the mix before. On the Arduino, I had it soldered in due to the pins being kind of shaky and when that happend I would get flashing of the LEDs. Soldered it and it never blinked again.


    Not exactly sure what could of happened here.



    I did all this... rebooted, Reconfigured everything, Video was being captured, LEDS setup correctly, 0 from the LEDs... No change. Personally I would prefer RetroPI over Kodi if I was to have it...LOL


    What else could I be missing in the UI ?


    I am almost thinking of buying new LEDs that there is a problem there because everything else is fine...


    Ok, setup..what I did...


    LED Hardware, Controller type - set as RPI PWM - WS281X ONLY other change here, Hardware LED count set to 253, confirmed GPIO-18 is set, saved and LED layout. setup the layout, Input position, etc, Saved, Checked LED layout picture, should be perfect.


    Capture Hardware - Change check to only have "Enable USB capture" and save. Confirm in Preview, TV is streaming in and LEDs are where they should be.


    No other changes, it appears it should be working...unless I missed another step ? ? ?