Beiträge von Ambientheater77



    je hebt de Debian buster lite? en de laatste Hyperion.


    wat werkte er wel vanaf het begin wat ineens nu niet meer werkt dan
    wat was je eerste installatie setup en nu je tweede?



    bovenstaande


    klopt die staat er standaard ook niet
    je kan een commando uitvoeren in de terminal; lsusb en dan kijken of je capture card ertussen staat met naam en mac adres


    [max_usb_current=1] deze line zet je in de config ergens bovenaan onder de begin text ZONDER #



    sommigen denken dat je met # ervoor dingen activeert maar dat betekent juist dat het systeem die overslaat.
    bij het begin van de regel zonder #


    daarna de config opslaan en weer terugdoen in de PI :)
    hieronder een voorbeeld hoe ik het heb dikgedrukt





    # For more options and information see
    # http://rpf.io/configtxt
    # Some settings may impact device functionality. See link above for details


    arm_freq=900
    force_turbo=1
    max_usb_current=1
    avoid_warnings=1
    avoid_warnings=2

    Well is there a Filter built in Hyperion that can compensate for this or is there a camera that can compensate for this as i so How does Govee get around it and systems like https://ambivision.tv



    the delay with a camera is big, Hyperion.NG has no filters build in as far as my knowledge goes to enhance camera grab quality.


    you can see that in this system of Ambivision the 'lag' is noticeable where its only build to work on grabbed images from a screen with WIFI.
    colours are too late. >>

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    you can also see this on their site.



    so again, no i don't believe that you get satisfiying results with this running on Hyperion. .

    Hi there I have seen a LED back light kit from Govee that uses a camera and a small box to control the back lights, Can Hyperion use USB cameras for a similar pupose instead of using hdmi video grappers


    hello.



    yes you can but results of using the camera pointed at a tv screen results in stripes/waves to your grabbed image.
    Reason is ( experimented with it myself) that the camera also picks up refreshment rate of picture lines, especially the horizontal ones > try to record a tv with a smartphone and you know what i am talking about. All that static and noise is be taken in your grabbed image on Hyperion.


    so yes you can do that, and no quallity of that will be slim.

    yes,



    soldering is very minimalistic and because the ledstrip is only shortened 20leds chance of mallfunction is very low. where i made the cut i roughen up the solder on +5v and GND and connected this also on PSU.
    so powered from both sides.
    most setups needs more light then mine and remember that my leds is only 30L/mtr while most here have them with 60 or even 144 leds!


    i would say the further the distance the light has to travel from tv to wall the more luminance you need. :)

    That is assuming is actually equal to 50% power as well? .0.24A * 300 = 7.2A


    yes somewhat in that ballpark, give or take


    i think also when you run them at full brightness the total draw from your PSU will be 14,5amps excluding the PI and the rest.
    so you will come at a good 15Amps at 5 volts. Then its good to use a 100 Watts PSU that can deliver 20Amps so you will be 'safe'


    my friend has your setup with APA102 ledstrip 300 of them almost (60L/mtr) and run them at only max 70% because its too bright > lights the whole room.

    thats a strange one, if every led is responsive and you configured LED layout correct, also use the arrow correct of dataflow..


    mmm let me think...
    lower or higher the SPI output
    calibrate the gamma and colours upto your likings
    measure the volts on your PSU, not go over 5 or way under, like 4,9 volts is perfect.
    make sure everything including the ledstrip is connected to GND so PI to PSU/ PSU to ledstrip / ledstrip to PI


    it can also be the GPIO output which cannot "rest" put in series on the pinout a 150ohm resistor for instance. ( you can find that on forum here)


    if that doesn't help use a level shifter ( no experience with those) but they make sure a clean data flow to the lights :)


    thats what i can come up with, and kuddo's that you got it working again! thats one worry less

    Thanks for the notes - I changed the hdmi/av convertor for the correct one (silly me.... )
    don't need the WLAN dongle?


    Can't I simply solder to the io's on the GPIO board?



    About this product


    Product Information
    This Raspberry Pi Zero combines compactness with power and efficiency. It supports SD card storage and features Raspian operating system for effective and responsive performance. It is equipped with a Broadcom bcm2835 processor with a processor speed of 1GHz which is paired with 512MB memory. Connectivity hardware includes Micro-HDMI and HDMI with features including built-in wi-fi and Bluetooth adapters. For graphics processing, the Raspberry Pi is equipped with a dual-core Videocore IV GPU.



    yes ofcource its a preference in what you want :)

    hello,



    wifi and bluetooth they are build in in the PI zero W



    USB wifi WLAN - https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2020-M...pter-802-11-Dongle-RTL8188-lapto/143202387869 [don't need]


    this one is not the correct type; HDMI 2 AV - https://www.ebay.com/itm/RCA-to-HDM...o-Adapter-720p-1080p-Full-HD-NEW/284118849011
    it converts AV to HDMI and its soldout :)



    the PSU
    i would go for a Meanwell powersource they are a little less cheap ( steady PSU is really important for the whole setup)


    you need also connectors for the solderstrips of the PI

    you can calculate power , how much leds?


    lets say 200 leds so, 200 x 0,048A = 9,6A


    the clicking of your PSU is protection against shortcutting probably, your grabber can also be responsible for a strange voltage thus its connected to electronics.
    also test without the grabber to rule out wrong connections

    what i would do, go to webUI localip:8090 and turn of the dispmanx and usbgrabber and then check again.
    you can increase setting of SPI to 1500000


    it looks like the leds are displaying static noise on the dispmanx video input of hyperion.



    if thats doesn;t help then connect GND from and to your PI from PSU
    stabilize your grounds (GND -) because you are using 2 different PSU

    very nice mate, also does the frame act as a diffuser as well or is it just to block and redirect the light to where you want on the wall?


    yeah true on the settings, everyone will have different values depending on the setup.


    :thumbup:



    the frame is mounted on the back of the tv, its purpose is too hold the ledstrip and shines the lights up down left and right from the tv.
    the picture is from the backpanel of the tv, where the frame is mounted on.


    The frame is also a little smaller in scale so you can't see any lights directly from an viewangle
    tle ledstrip is sticked with his own adhesive tape to the frame, in this way i didn't had too cut the ledstrip at the corners/ can make a fluently corner which makes sure there's also lights where the bend is.


    most setups from frames are placed ON the tv backplate so the lights shines to the wall, my frame is made that the lights shine along the wall.
    with my setup the distance from lights to wall is shorter because most setups and frames have a longer distance from frame to wall and ledstrips are placed on the back and not on the sides like mine



    i hope this helps :)

    very nice Jeroen :biggrin:


    be nice if someone threw a quick guide together on where to start :roflmao:


    Im at the stage where my wall has more colour at times than the TV



    sure i can do that but every setup is different and need alternate calibrations to get the desired effect out of the Ambilight.
    but ofcourse i could make a basic guideline howto get the best result possible.


    if i have time then you are the first on my mind :thumbup: