@ Neeb thanks that was the type i was talking about, electronic PSU with a potmeter to adjust voltage.
so; 100 : 5 = 20 amps 
I am thinking of maybe using a computer psu as I believe these have a 5v supply
they sure have > ATX PSU is good for at least 35 amps on 5 volts
a friend of mine bought a really good and powerfull PSU, maybe i can find the link for you
Yes, I had forgotten that I had the 2 halves positive line separated and the grounds connected. effectively each supply powers it's own half..
Forgive me, It's been 3 years since making it, Details start fading after a wile.
no problem 
i only want to prevent TS is frying PSU and his ledstrip how he wanted to connect the stuff.... ahaha
later i make a short video with my setup
Hey jeroen, I meant to ask. How do you like the APA102 compared to ws2801? I currently have the ws2812 and ordered APA102 that will be here in a few weeks. I thought the APA102 would be a much better strip now that I'm all set up.
with these settings APA102 is really nice, better colours in especially whites/Lblue/pinks then the WS2801
I run Debian Buster full with Hyperion.NG 1 béta, that runs a little diffrent than the versions you have now.
i have set it like this
play with Gamma settings>.
RGB colours i didn't alternate only this. Without Gamma alternated like this my setup on APA102 gives pale and washout colours.
with this setting the APA102 gives strong and powerfull colours.
For WS2801 ( which i tested with) its normal that white colours is being blueish. . it has to do with how they interpret the "whites"
So why has my setup worked with 2 10amp supply's, for over 3 years?
Power supply's are hooked up in parallel and power each corner of the tv's led strip (APA102)
MY setup, still working great!
https://hyperion-project.org/threads/upgraded-thanks.820/
read my comment well >> TS (topicstarter) is talking about power the ledstrip on both sides while the ledstrip is in one piece.
you did cut in half and powered those 2 half with 2 SEPARATE PSU, thats okay ofcourse when stabilized.
btw you can only hook it up" parallel on GND but not on + 5volts
I have 210 leds to power and it is recommended that I use a 5v 13.5amp power supply.
I have a 5v 10amp supply so could I buy another 5v 10amp power supply and power it from both ends
short answer NO
you can't merge two diffrent +5 volts together ( or any DC) on the same ledstrip in one piece
only GND (-) you can merge together of two diffrent PSU to stabilize!
Akriss powered his ledstrip SEPARATELY on each corner and only connected D0 and Ci to the second strip. So you can do it like that and then stabilize the GND (-) or power everything with only one PSU when its powerfull enough for your setup.
you can see that in the flowchart.
goodluck.
ps; P=UxI formula to use to calculate is Watts = Volts x Amps
with this you can easy calculate how much power is needed and how much amps the setup is drawing from PSU
for 5050 SMD leds (most common type because you have also smaller leds) the flowchart is this;
dan kan je 2 dingen doen, je config.text bijwerken en er een line bijzetten die je power verhoogt op de USB poort.
als dat niet werkt een USB hub met externe voeding, note; deze dingen zorgen vaak wel voor storingen op de hyperion lees ik vaak
weet je nog
en de beste wensen nog!
brightness is bij Image Processing in te stellen, ook brightness compensation ( verschil tussen harde en zachte kleuren)
without the interferring of hyperion you can do it like this;
to make a USB videostream on your PI vissible;
open your terminal;
sudo apt-get install mplayer
then execute;
sudo mplayer tv:// -tv device=/dev/video0 -hardframedrop
after this a popup window will open with the videostream ( if its there) of /dev/video0
goodluck
any ideas or do you know if kodi JSON-RPC can provide any info on the active source?
if you aren't shure then you can Debug and file this in a log.
then in that log you should see /dev/video0 and if Hyperion is opening a stream of that device succesfully
Does anyone know of any commands that can give any sort of output to if the USB capture device is actually receiving any data.
without the interferring of hyperion you can do it like this;
to make a USB videostream on your PI vissible;
open your terminal;
sudo apt-get install mplayer
then execute;
sudo mplayer tv:// -tv device=/dev/video0 -hardframedrop
after this a popup window will open with the videostream ( if its there) of /dev/video0
goodluck
It seems these values are only available when using a hardware grabber? There's no such settings for platform capture, at least not in the web config
you're right sorry i gave you the wrong information, these settings are only for USB grabber.
but you can use Vmin Hmin and Vmax Hmax settings also to cut off imagestream from USB grabber when wanted
goodluck.
Alles anzeigenMy setup is the following:
RPi3B running LibreELEC 9.2.6 and Hyperion-ng 2.0.0-alpha.9 (dispmanx platform capture)
Arduino Nano w. adalight sketch
WS2812B LEDs
I've spent quite a bit of time calibrating and I would say I'm about 80-90% happy with medium bright to bright scenes. I don't think it's going to get much better with these LEDs. Fully dark (black) background scenes with defined light sources are OK but what I can't figure out how to fix is dark, low contrast scenes with a lot of near black colours. I get a lot of "threshold" flickering (which smoothing doesn't seem to be able to get rid off) and very inaccurate colours here. Often very saturated green on brownish colours and saturated blue on dark grey, for example.
I can't seem to get rid of these "artifacts" no matter how much I tweak gamma and brightness settings and they are very distracting. Do I need to change something in my hardware setup to fix this or is it possible to fix with calibration? I would rather the LEDs stayed off completely under a certain threshold but there doesn't seem to be such a value? Only way seems to be to crank the gamma values up or cut the brightness massively but this causes all sorts of different issues and lower quality experience overall. Can't seem to find a balance here.
The second thing I'm having an issue with is blackbar detection. As of now I'm using the letterbox mode and while it works very well for detecting black bars, the issue is that on static scenes it seems to keep going indefinitely until it finds a light source. So if a scene is "static" for more than a second or two, it will set a ridiculous blackbar and LEDs can go from fully off to very bright in the middle of such a static scene and it's super distracting.
I have tried setting "Inconsistent frames" to extremely high values but it doesn't seem to make a difference. Maybe I'm not understanding what this value does? I've also tried all the different detection modes but they seem to behave more or less the same in regards to this particular issue.
i had this before these settings that i posted;
greenish and greyish disruptions in images.
tip; also check your display settings in KODI settings
hardware; RPI3b APA102
software;
Version 1.0.0
Build master (Paulchen Panther-b9a88766/fe728b15-1576413830) Git Remote: https://github.com/hyperion-project/hyperion.ng.git
Build date Jan 3 2020 13:02:41
if you adjust backlight treshold to 4 and colour tresholds to 10 it should help already.
also boosting gamma values to 2.5 each channel.
thats how i set it.
i post some settings of my setup
That's the thing... There is NOTHING in the Pi folder ♂️
with VNC viewer you can see the desktop and in folders you can select in view tab> CTRL+H this makes vissible hidden folders.
how to do that in SSH/Putty
For command line:
ls -a
or
ls -al
Alles anzeigenThis is exactly how it was wired before. And it was working albeit w ith the final section faintly flickering.
Below is how I wired the end of the strip which subsequently superheated and broke the dc jack. Anything obviously wrong? Apart from the crude drawing...
Strange, because layout is good. Probably ground isn't good or wrong connection
Finally done with the wiring. Would be very nice if anyone could proof that its correct.
i would say; get the show on the road
